Mopar1973Man

Scan Gauge II and others will misreport the MAP sensor. Being Cummins uses a special kind of math to report boost correctly.

Bought it back at like 12k miles and paid $700 for Dodge to install it.

265k miles on the transmission before I broke the main shaft. Already at 114k miles on this transmission. As for the reduction in transmission life, I would say no. Huge reduction in brake wear, no impact on transmission or clutch. Exhaust brake has no wear factor.

P0216 and that smoke the VP44 is shot.

I try to start and roll as quickly as possible. Warm up is actually bad to leave them to sit and idle excessively in the cold. Cold air intake makes this worse too. Then there is the grid heaters attempting to keep the air warm and adding ton of electrical load on the alternator which is a great way to fry the diodes.

Excessive idle time cold. Tar up the valve stems and WHAM! Piston bent the valve. Symptom/Condition: Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time.

Just wait till the alternator fuse blows and whatever that is that red wire powering will most likely burst into flames when the charge voltage goes over 20 volts. This is something I wish AirDog would take out of there install manual. Anything hooked to the alternator line will instantly burn up when the fuse blows this includes electronic devices or electric motors. Why? Because the PCM will no longer see the charge voltage and will crank up the field to max power so the alternator no longer connected it will fry anything hooked to it. NEVER hook anything to the alternator line between the fuse and the alternator you asking for vehicle fire for sure.

Got the choice of parking the truck again which its been parked for over 9 months. At least now the owner can drive it. Because the "pups" though is was emission equipment which it wasn't, so he's already spent a ton load and never really drove the truck since he bought it used and still paying for the truck. Between truck payments and repairs kind of hard to toss down $4,000 in injectors.

You can remove those switches and replace them. Might be able to spray contact cleaner in them as well.

You never gave the Quadzilla a true chance. Just expecting the "default tune" to work right out of the hole. Not the way it works. There will never be a canned tuner that will be perfect either. Being most of them are only designed for stock injectors. Like @dripley can say about +50 HP injectors and Edge Comp are smoky. Just running of the ECM stock tune is going to be pretty retarded in timing. Making it even slower.

Like I keep tell most people... Out here people don't have a $4,000 to toss down on injectors. This was the only way to go. After testing the other 5 were still very serviceable but #6 was completely wiped out and returning high flow rate. I still know of 3 other truck where they are driving with the Grid Heater light on and having troubles starting in the morning. Just no one has $4,000 to replace all 6 injectors.

Will this work for ya? https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-pods/3-inch-square-18-watt-led-mini-auxiliary-work-light-flush-mount/1783/

Time to swap out the electrical and the PCM.

Kind of like the guys I just got done with 2012 Ram 6.7L one bad injector. He's so clueless.

I'm finding more and more guys even out here that are wrench clueless.

Those two are out running around the highways traveling from place to place. Not much to figure out. Turn on Bluetooth. Turn on the device you are going to pair with. Now, wait till the phone report that it has a paired device. Now anytime that device is one the phone will pair up with that device automatically. That how an Android smartphone will work. As for iOS phones, I know they will transmit data on Bluetooth hence why the WiFi head for Quadzilla.

RV275's and an Edge EZ is OK. I ran an Edge Comp and Stock injectors, RV275 Injectors, and +50 HP Injectors for over 10 years. Good combo but the +50 HP were too smokey and could be cleaned up very well. Again "Canned Tuners" like Edge and Smarty are only good for Stock injectors. Once you start using big injectors then the smoke gets out of control easy. Then I swapped up to the Quadzilla Adrenaline and +75 HP injectors extremely clean tuner and injectors. Now jump up to +150 HP injectors and can keep the smoke to a controlled haze more or less.

Yes sir... Not a bad job to do. I got the injectors out and mailed them to DAP. They got the box on Friday. Then late Monday they had got the testing done. Found that one injector has extremely high return flow rates. This was bleeding out the rail and creating the P0087 error code. Got the injectors installed in a bit over 3 hours. Did all the torque specs for everything. There is an extra step versus the 24V style. Where we use the injector hold down cap to push the injectors in. For CR engines you have to lightly torque (41-inch pounds) to push the injectors down past the o-rings into the head. The rest is easy. The rearmost #6 is a PITA no matter what. Way easier to bleed the rail and get it started. That was super easy compared to a 24V Cummins. Completed and ready to go home.

The older these trucks get the harder and harder it is to remove pressed together parts.

Still, I would suggest going to an alignment shop. Just that extra degree will not show up on wear patterns but might impact steering performance and increase wear speed slightly but nothing noticeable.

All I can speak for is Android. But when I download a tune it lands in my download folder. Then I got to the iQuad app and then press the Import Button. Then go to my Download folder and select the file I wish to import. Apple products should be something similar.

Not done yet. Waiting for parts to show. Sensor and wiring.

Stated dry weight according to the label 6,588 pounds. As I said, no one tows an empty RV. Actual weight. This is correct. Best choice would be Quadzilla Adrenaline but requires the effort of making a good tune. Caned tuners like Smarty or Edge Comp and Edge Juice are only designed for stock trucks and not exactly a good choice for towing. Quadzilla will give the best bang for the buck but again you have to make the time to build the tune and do the testing as well. Not something you can do overnight. For either manual or automatic transmissions is a good thing. Like myself, I bought 2 sets of weld in bungs so I can have one sensor for the transmission and then the second bung will go into the rear differential. Got to use a single transmission temp gauge for both sensors on a toggle switch. Also, ISSPro EV2 gauge comes with a USB programmable warning light and programmable relay to switch on and off devices (optional). I've got my gauge set to 220°F warning light temp.

EGT limits are like @AH64ID mentions at 1,250°F. I will warn though running that hot will make the coolant temperature rise quickly. Like your doing running 1,100°F is much easier for the engine and keep the heat down. As for the trailer forget the empty weight. Post up the GVWR that is the number that is meaningful. No one tows an empty RV. Everyone packs it with cargo, food, water, propane, etc. That number is the most important. I've also got to ask how many miles on the truck? If you have over 100k miles on the stock injectors you most likely due for replacement. Just because the truck still runs fine doesn't mean the injectors are still spraying at the proper pressure. This will make for hotter EGT's. A good tuner also helps a bunch with towing EGT's as you advance timing you EGT's will fall and the engine runs cooler and more efficient.