Mopar1973Man

Some of us park in unheated shops that might be a bit warmer (+20*F to +30*F). This give you cheating start with warmer fuel and not have to struggle with -15*F out of the starting gate. To this date I've NEVER gelled up yet.

Cummins failure found. The thermostat body separated. Weld between the body and disc broke.

Check error codes and list the numbers out... There might be more at hand here.

Actually @Electrojake he was referring to the fact that you might be creating the article or someone would be. This is what make this site so popular is the the fact you can write your own articles and crate a notebook of information that you can refer to later and share the link with another forum or member here. All other forums out there are just forums. M73M is way different being the membership can produce articles, have your truck garage, and many other functions. Last time I checked there is over 15 GB of website data here.

The solution could of been as easy as replacing the APPS sensor with a Timbo's APPS for about $170.

You suppose to be on the same polarity. If your working positive both probes are on the the positive side. Never touching the negative side. Then visa versa doing negative side you never touch positive.

I wonder if the video signal isn't making it back to the deck that is what turns the screen over to back camera mode. If the video line is dead then the stereo will not flip over.

Tidbit more. @mr.obvious did a bit more testing. He put both Cummins old thermostat and the new thermostat in a pan of water and heated. Watching they both open exactly at the specified 190°F as stamped on the thermostat. The problem is when left to cool the new Cummins thermostat is EXTREME slow to close back up taking up to 3 minutes. The old thermostat only took a mere 30 seconds or so. This explains why the the new one is running cold sided.

That's why most of this stuff is in the article database so we can revisit those thing again later and renew our knowledge on different things.

We all learn from each other here. Like I just did a post on re-sealing a 2002 transfer case which I've got to post some more to. There is no dumb questions here. The only dumb question is the one you DON'T ask. We have guys from all walks of life here. working folks, performance nuts, hot shot truckers, etc. I'm sure someone of the pile will have an answer or an idea on how to fix, repair, diagnose, etc. Just jump in and start asking questions.

According to Eric at Vulcan performance the 2010+ lift pumps have better longevity and better pressure and volume for the 4th gen engines. As for the 3rd Gen pumps still have serious problems with volume and pressure. Not to mention longevity is rather poor yet. This is why the 2010+ pumps seem to be better solution for stockish trucks.

We switched over to subscription based. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/ BBCode is obsolete here. No longer really used. This is all up to date HTML5 coding not like CF.com with old school PHP software. Here you go... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ No longer here... All subscription based now. There is a lot of the information tied up in the article section. This coming winter I'm going to be writing more articles for the 4th Gen. We already have raided the Mopar storehouse for information just need the time to convert PDF files into HTML5 coding and do all the SEO coding (Google) too. I apologise for being short on current info for the 4th gens but I'll get caught up. Personal note I'm a cancer survivor so I'm currently working mostly to pay my hospital bills. This why I'm bit behind on getting articles wrote for the site.

Welcome to the family... What are you looking to do? What are your goals exactly?

Quick fix... If you have a flat/tapered ferrel. You can use a double taper ferrel. The trick is managing to file one side down flat. but not too much because to much filing will make it to the point you can compress the ferrel ino the tubing. Still can damage your tubing again doing this. This is why I fell in love with PTC fittings. I got all metal PTC fittings and so far 6 years and still going strong and leak free. I got the fitting from NAPA.

Disregard the P1693. It's just a flag pointing there there is other error codes could be in either module. Now follow the diagnostic on the PCM.

This is done by measuring the voltage loss at different places along the cable as in the article. Better the voltage the less amperage required as shown below. Watts (load) = Volts (Supplied) x Amps (Draw) So if The starter load is 8,400 watts this means 12 Volt system has to supply 700 amps. Now if you lose 0.2 or more volts that means that that has to be made up in amps. Wattage load will not change typically. 8,400 Watts = 12.6 Volts x 666 Amps 8,400 Watts = 12 Volts x 700 Amps 8,400 Watts = 11.5 Volts x 730 Amps As you can see the more voltage that can make it to the starter will require less amperage to do the same work. This is just an example and not actual numbers. It does show the mechanics of electricity and how a weak connection can create more amperage draw typically showing as a burnt connection. Larger the cable gauge the less voltage loss in distance.

I'm the reverse I've had plenty of compression fittings and tubing fails in my past and not having a means of replacing the ferrel and getting the line hooked back up. End up heat the end of the tubing and crushing the plastic shut to get home a few times. Then find out the local stores don't have the right ferrel for your setup. End up changing fitting because of a change of ferrels.

Yup. it helps a bunch being I see -20*F to -40*F up here every winter at least one day to one week. Never gelled once yet.

Simply Auto... https://www.simplyauto.app/ Yes you can run more than one vehicle. I paid for the $4 version and working excellent. Can even back up your logs to a Excel sheet (LibreCalc for Linux). Like I currently log both my 1996 Dodge and the 2002 Dodge. The diesel I've got over 4 years of fuel logs just about and still working good. Maintenance notices will pop up after filling the tank when time or mileage is exceeded.

I've got a tidbit to toss in here... I made a few phone calls and found out from Eric at Vulcan Performance that the 2010+ intank lift pumps are actually pretty good pumps now. For stockish truck you could use one possibly. He explained you would have to modify the lift pump module so it would fit the tank. Ive got a friend in Ontario that is willing to be the test dummy for this and will be soon retrofitting this 2010+ pump in his 2002 Dodge truck.

PTC fittings. Push To Connect fittings. No ferrels, no compression nut. PTC are seal sealing and work very well for low pressure applications. Reusable. If there is any tubing problems you can just simply push the collar back to release the tubing. Not you can trim off the bad part or just replace. Push the tubing back in and it self seals and locks.

Totally agree... I've used all the big names at some point and broken every one of them at least once. Now I typically just buy the harbor freight stuff. Craftsman, Snap-on, etc are expensive and don't last any longer than a HF socket either. I was trying to loosen a blue loctite bolt on my calipers and it took all 5 of my sockets (which failed) and where of name brands. Then went out and bought a cheap HF socket set put the cheater bar back on and pulled with everything I had the socket held up and the bolt came free.

Here is the FSM version of testing...

Thanks, but kind of late. I called NAPA locally they claimed they had no listing for a oil cooler gasket. Figures... Most likely a greenhorn parts person. Mopar dealer and Cummins dealers are the worst for price and have the highest absolute price. Which 99% of the time I'm sure you can buy the very same part for a fraction of the price elsewhere.

Not much better than my last purchase from Cummins. The oil cooler gasket for nearly $70 dollars.