Mopar1973Man

30k for power steering fluid, and brake fluid. Manual transmission is considered life long fluid. I was changing every 100k miles now with 50 SAE changing at 50k miles.

Yes it all goes to the site. I only get a cut of what left over after bills are paid. If the income is low I lose a paycheck or its really skinny like April of $20 for the month. Check cost me a 250 mile round trip to the bank to process. No longer have a local bank. Then I need to transfer the funds from my personal account to M73M Paypal account. When you use the debit card. I don't have to drive 250 miles to a bank and back and then I don't have to transfer funds. Its directly deposited in the Paypal account. Much easy for the bookkeeper to keep up with.

My suggestion... For those with a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember S___) Download this app for your phone. https://www.simplyauto.app/ Now track all your fuel and maintenance on your vehicle. Even warns of when thing need to be taken care of. About 3 years of logs...

Yup. That is very true. Best to build in stages. Like other have suggested take care of the repairs first. Then do your upgrades. Best to build slow and in stages.

I'd gladly do that task. Just did that exact thing for a gent down in Parma, ID. Meet him for the first time and looked over his truck and gave him a task list to look into. Then next we'll start talking labor and what jobs I'll do.

I've been using that for a long time. What have you been drinking? Better start sharing...

Hmmm....

When some one calls that is the total height of the tire. 3 numbers are... mm measure across the tread, then the next number is percentage of the tread face in the side wall height, then third number is the wheel size in inch. Like I run 245/75 R16 tires. 245mm (9.64567 inches) across the tread. Then 75% of 245mm is 183.75mm (7.23425197 inches tall), and 16 inch rim. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

The problem is I'm the only website left not owned by a corporate. I'm privately owned and have no umbrella when a big company could infuse money in. Everything else out there like CF is owned by AutoGuide.com, DieselBombers is owned by Internet Brands, etc. I'm just a single guy trying to hold my own life on a wire with cancer (finally clear), then taking care of Mom with Dialysis. The last few pay checks are well in the cents per hour. (April paycheck was $20 for the month) We've been leaning on only 2% of the membership pool to keeping the bills paid and and possibly make a bit of profit myself. Advertising is very random some months are good other are barely going to pay the bills. This was the only way to make it fair small amount from everyone. Site bills have always been paid but my own bills I've had to struggle working other jobs just to keep my own head above water. I refuse to sell the site to corporate owner. If I close it down, the information will be gone for ever period. Still the same method. Just spreading small amount by all. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/

I've been doing the fluid flush without the engine going. You need to pull the steering box return not the hydro-booster. Now cap the pump off so it holds fluid. With the axle jacked up slightly now just unlock the steering wheel (engine OFF). Now go lock to lock slowly and the steering box will pull fluid all the way through the system. I typically flush a quart through the system. It hold slightly over a quart dry.

Kind of how a wasted a great 1972 Dodge Power Wagon pickup with oversized tires and lift kit. Broke the front wheel joints 3 different times. Damaged wheel bearings. Tore up a drivershaft. Wiped out a few clutches, Wrong final gearing... End up trading that truck in and get the 2002 Dodge Cummins. Took a huge hit for trade in value for the trashed front axle you can't get parts for any longer.

The power steering system has lots of small orifices. You would need to tear it all down and blow out all the small parts. Like the power valve in the steering box, the valve in the hydrobooster, and then the small ports in the power steering pump. This is why you flush the system out BEFORE installing any now parts. Blue Top even tags the gear box stating that the system needs a complete flushing BEFORE installing and will not warranty the steering box for debris issues from lack of flushing. To this day I'm still running my OEM pump and flush the fluid every 30k miles.

I'm running right behind him at 384k miles. Still kicking out about 1,000 miles a week. These engines are good for 1 million miles. I'm on my second clutch. South Bend Con OFE clutch. It a full kit with flywheel, all bearings, friction disc and the pressure plate. Trailer towing and log skidding is really tough on clutches. Being this clutch is mostly highway miles I'm going to get much more miles on it. Transmission wise I broke the main shaft on the OE transmission. Still going on the new one already past 100k miles.

Try deleting the tune then try hooking back up to the Quadzilla. If you can get back in then reload the tune again. Mistakes of values in the wrong spots can hang the app. At the worst you would end up uninstalling the iQuad app and starting over.

OMG Now that's funny...

OK, I've got work to do on my truck tomorrow. Doing front brakes. I'll grab my thermometer and check again. I'm sure I'm going to tip the 160F mark

You both full of s__t. @98whitelightnin you've got a 190*F thermostat right? That heater vent temp seems low. I typically see about 160*F.

When was the last time you changed the power steering fluid? Remember Power Steering fluid need to be changed every 30k miles.

No. They can't. The only way is to set a tune and the calibrate the ABS. Once returned to stock the ABS calibration is lost and returned back to stock again. Only if @Chris O. would finish the CCD Network tool we would have a good tool for ABS calibrations. Either that or pay the money for dealer to used a DRBIII tool.

That sucks the dash cap is missing the screw holes.

You might see dampness around the firewall inside the cab typically where the master will weep a bit but also drawing air in too.

If it was me I would get a some 1/8 air brake line and use that. Last much long and designed for oil and fuel contact.

Typically a air bubble will be seen as a sudden drop of fuel pressure. Then jumps back to pressure again.

I know of a few guys that do such tasks. Yeah they don't want to be publicly announced but there are people that build delete tunes for MM3's. Like the one I got experience with is StarBrite Tune (EFI knockoff). Not exactly fond of this tuner. Rather pain in the butt. You have to download the entire ECM and the extract the data file from the tuner on a laptop then email the ECM to them. In about an hour or so then email back the ECM code and you can upload the the new ECM code to the the truck. Now the tuner gives 5 levels of power but you much shut down. hook up, key on, configure, key off, unhook, and fire back up. No configuring the tune, no adjustments for the tune, just 5 levels.

The larger line is a vent for the transfer case.