Mopar1973Man

Replacing injectors on a CR engine isn't much different that changing injectors on a 24V. There is a few differences but the process is the same. First you need to make sure the fuel rail area is clean. Best to take a power washer and blow all the crud and dirt off the fuel rail side of the head. Remove the intake horn and grid heater. Pack a few rags in the intake to prevent anything from falling in by chance. Now you need to remove the fuel rail and all the connecting lines to the head. It will come out in one piece with the rail and the lines attached. Be aware the overflow valve has a banjo and sealing washers on top and bottom. There is a few wires to remove. The two injectors control plugs on the driver side of the head. There are two sensors there on the intake. Now remove the valve cover. You should be looking at the injectors and the wiring for them. Take a 8mm socket and remove all the connections. Then lift the wiring gasket up and out. 10mm socket and remove all the exhaust rockers. I suggest laying a rag out and laying them all out in the order removed. This way you can put back without adjusting the valve lash all over again. Suggested to do a valve lash after removing the rockers. You'll need a 24mm wrench for removing the crossover tube nuts. Socket will work but the back might be a bit too limited. Now using a small flat blade screwdriver you can lightly pry the connector tubes out. Suggested to replace the crossover tubes. Now with a 8mm socket you can remove the two bolts holding each injector down. Using a flat blade screwdriver hook the solenoid collar and carefully pry upwards out of the head. When it does come up make sure to check for the copper washer on the tip and no left in the head. Assembly is fairly straight forward as well. Now when installing the injectors you can place each injector in its hole make sure to locate the crossover hole towards the driver side. Another way to see it is the hold down collar is square toward the front and rounded towards the rear at least for the 2006 I have here. Now you need to seat the injector in its hole tighten the injector hold down to about 44 inch/pounds. This is only to push the injector into the head. I used a nut driver and 8mm socket and tighten till the injector is fully seated and backed off the bolts till loose again. Now you can push each crossover tube into place. Do note the position of the locating balls on the shank they face upwards might twist just a little bit to find the notch. Now twist in the crossover tube nuts. Torque them to 11 foot/pounds. Now you can torque the injector hold downs to 89 inch/pounds. Now you switch back and do a final torque of the crossover tubes to 37 foot/pounds. Lay the the integrated gasket / wiring down and lightly torque the nuts to 11 inch/pounds. Just much easier having the 8mm nut driver and lightly tighten the nuts. Be aware over tighten will damage the injector and this is a very expensive mistake not to make! Now you can install the rocker arms. This is why I lay them out in order then you can get them back in place without having to do a valve lash adjustment. The bolt is torqued to 27 foot/pounds. It is suggested to do a valve lash adjustment but you can quickly check after installing the rockers if that is needed or not with a feeler gauge. You can now install the fuel rail and connect all the lines again. Make sure to get both sealing washer on the overflow valve. Don't forget the supply tube from the CP3. Slip in the valve cover and tighten down. Install the grid heater and the intake horn. Priming is simple. Loosen only #1 injector line. Crank for about 5 seconds you should have fuel dribbling out. Now tighten and crank again it should start right up in about 5 seconds of cranking. View full Cummins article

Wrong switch. It should be the rotary switch 3 position (or 3 position with pull out knob). The pull out switch stopped in 1998 and 1999 went to rotary switch.

Simple version. Unhook the grid heater power wire from the driver side battery. Controlled version grab a Ford Starter solenoid. Now wire the factory grid heater lead through the solenoid to the +12V. Now the smaller terminals wire in a switch to keyed 12V power. This will control if the solenoid is on or off. That's it.

Just for information... Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 7 x 0.010 Injectors (150 HP) @ 320 bar. I daily drive this truck a 1,000 miles a week and run just nearly smoke free.

Here is the wiring diagram. Then here is the CCD network article.

293 bar is the lower limit for injectors. Below this the spray is not as good and larger drops and less fine mist.

Normal setup no air baffles. Most likely not charged correctly. Check after full warm up if the compressor is cycling. If so it needs to be charged.

Send a PM to @pepsi71ocean.

@Me78569 is 100% correct. Your at you limits with Smarty S-03.

Food for thought Blue Top does some of the work for Redhead IIRC.

Won't hapoen at least for me.

Member here on M73M which happens to be @dorkweed he ran his CR engine 80k plus miles on a single oil change on WalMart SuperTech 15w-40 and Fleetguard filters and a MotorGuard bypass filter. Was testing every 7k with blackstone and no issues till somewhere around 80k miles silicone was up from doing valve lash. He did the same thing change filters and topped off.

I wonder how I got to 385k miles without 2 LO all these years? Only on my second clutch. Hmmm...

Mine looked pretty darn good. When the head was off the cylinder wall were in excellent condition except for on cylinder that had a debris rub the cylinder wall enough that you can see color difference but not feel it. You can see it in number 4 cylinder. 385k miles on the clock and rolling 1,000 miles a week.

Because a rebuilder cannot set everything up in a loaded condition. In other words making the final adjustment taking the slack out. Even had the same thing happen with Blue Top Steering. I have to tighten the sector adjustment a 1/4 turn more. Hard to test on a bench test and then install to a truck and find there is some slack. They don't have a truck to bench test on. Stock steering box only has two adjustment which are listed right in the FSM book. Sector adjustment and bearing pre-load. Those are the only 2 adjustments. Typically the sector adjustment is left too loose to prevent over the center bind up.

I rebuilt numerous Ford ,Dodge and Chevy steering box they are easy as pie. The only thing that is time consuming is getting the 22 ball bearing back into the worm gear. That is it...

Fuel filters are like oil filters anything poured into the center hole is unfiltered. This why I will not fill oil filter or a fuel filter before installing. Even though many shops still fill the filters before installing. It only takes a little bit of debris and it will do its harm to the engine or the injection pump. The only way you can fill a filter without the worry is fill through the side ring holes which is the filter inlet or don't fill it at all and use the pump to prime or priming lever. Even if you ask @AH64ID he will tell you the same thing. I have been getting 60k miles from my fuel filters now.

Other bills first, then back to upgrading.

You might want to talk to @Blue-Top Steering He's got rebuild kits that allow you to do it yourself. Really easy.

Dang... I love all these weird trip switches. The Jacobs Brake uses the ECM for the trigger there is an empty pin on the plug that you insert into and it toggles the exhaust brake on and off.

I never fill the filter with canned diesel it dirty fuel and unfiltered. That is the first thing to the injection pump. I always work the primer lever or the prime cycle on the key to fill the filter back up.

Yeah, we care around here and would like to see you make the million miles on your truck. You still out ahead of me. Stay there...

I found you something on Facebook.

Because of the crow hoping it will do on corners and the stress it puts on the front driveline.

@dripley just needs to change what he's smokin'. That would protect him from the cancer that tobacco will give him and help heal his lungs from the tars in tobacco smoke.