Mopar1973Man

Explain more... How about products links? I'm curious of this...

That's why I'm waiting for Abe at Weller truck to tell me what least he found.

Need the truck as quickly as possible. Remember Mom requires dialysis every other day. The Cummins is way more efficient that the half ton. Not to mention I need the truck for towing trailers and moving stuff that is just too heavy for the half ton. I use about 600 in fuel per month. As for the clutch between the two I just needed to add $20 for the upgrade. Why not? Personally I think the trans will hold up fine. It was the pilot bearing that created the issue. Since the input shaft goes to the counter shaft it built up some free play and the teeth where just on the tips and the torque did its just and broke them off. This was a reason I went down a tire size to to reduce torque stress. But I never knew the pilot bearing fell out. Lot of unseen problems that contributed to the failure. We might just have to revisit the fact of the main shaft I broke with Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. Too much power? Just for Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors to break the main shaft. Heck I might as well go back to stock and by a Ford then huh?

Ok. Little Update. Upgraded clutch ordered. I did a Valair Organic Dual Disc and it's on it's way. Transmission is still being rebuilt..

LED Lighting Parts List LED marker light LED Taillight Heavy duty LED flasher As for installing it just simple change of parts. The flasher is found in your driver side of the dash. If the flasher been there a while then it might be difficult to remove. Just take your time and work the flasher it will come out. Pull the stock flasher out and plug in the new flasher. The replacement flasher can is slightly larger for the 12V dash. It will barely fit. Make sure to get the electronic flasher can. As for the taillights you need a T25 screwdriver. There are 2 screws holding each taillight in place. The outside edge is a set of pins into the body. Need to be firm but careful and pull the light straight out. Top bulbs are your tail lights simply twist the socket and it should come out. Simply change the bulbs out. Leave the bulb out of the taillight for testing. Front marker lights for stock marker there is a Phillips screw holding the light in place on the bottom. Then just pull forward. Twist the socket and remove. Now change out the bulb. Again leave the bulb out for testing. Aftermarket headlight you might have a unit like my own which the marker light is part of the headlight. This you'll need to remove the 3 10mm bolts and pull the headlight forward to gain access to the marker lights. After that, it is just like the stock marker light. Twist the socket to remove and change the bulb out. On stock headlights its a Phillips screw on the bottom then the marker light can be removed. Now testing you want to simply turn on the parking lamps and see if the front marker lights are both white and the rear taillights are dim red. Now you can hit the hazards and check and see if the front marker lights turn amber and the rear taillight flash bright red. If any of the bulbs are backward pull them out and turn then 180 and resocket the bulb. This should fix this problem. As for the bulbs listed above, I'm using a switchback bulb in the front marker lights. This bulb will be white light on parking lamps and when a turn signal or hazards turn on the bulb automatically switches from white to amber. A member brought up laws might be in effect for white marker lamps in front. Might want to check with local laws on this. This article is created from the 24V article. Same LED bulbs were used again but the flasher can is different. View full Cummins article

Just found out NAPA has a selection of different re-manufactured alternators. There is a 160 Amp, 180 Amp and one more. The 160 Amp is just about 200 for price. There is options for you guys to have bigger alternators but I'm not sure what the fusible link rating is and if you have to update it for the 4th gens.

Just generic hardware store roof coating that is white. Back in the day it was TruValue Hardware. This is one I do remember..

Only has that single fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. Grounds are at the fenders. So now check the socket for +12V on each leg. It could be a rare instance of the filament broke off and flopped over another leg inside giving a weak glow. I would give a new bulb a shot if the voltage is present on the hi and lo legs of the socket.

Samething my Gates 200*F thermostat did. But the drop would swing back to 180*F before it closed.

Injector hold downs are suppose to be torqued to 89 inch/pounds.

All I can say is I will not follow the herd a second time for Dicor coatings. Extremely expensive and only lasted 3 years total joke. All that coating is now peeling up this summer and blowing off in the wind just sitting in the yard. Bought 3 gallons of the coating plus a gallon of the primer. Follow the directions closely. Even power washed the roof as directed in the instructions. Still peeling off. Don't waste your time. 3 years and about $300 dollars worth of materials. I had way better results with the cheap hardware store coating on my old Dodge Jamboree and it lasted over 10 years before any problems happened. That generic coating worked awesome hardware store white roof coating much thicker material and sticks without primer. Put it on the same way wash the roof off good. Skip the primer and then roll on the new roof coating this stuff stuck really good and never peeled off!

All you need is a live data tool like a OBDLink LX or ScanGauge II and monitor the TPS signal if the numbers a steady and not jumping around then they APPS is good. If the TPS drops to ZERO or suddenly jump up in value while held steady then the APPS has failed. When the ECM detect a value out of range the ECM automatically disconnects from the aPPS sensor and does the dead pedal and also at the same time throws the code. P0121, P0122, p0123 are the common codes.

Before tearing out the APPS or even thinking its a APPS issue. Take a live data tool like OBDLink or ScanGauge II and watch the TPS value. Does it float or change when held at a point of throttle? If it wondering or jumping value then I say change the APPS sensor. As for the warm engine idle miss that could be a injector that is popping low or bad spray pattern. Still possible as part of this issue. As for the hold at 1,500 and surge could be a AC noise issue. Either test the alternator on a bench or you could use a DVM and check the AC voltage from the alternator with everything off and the engine idling it should not be above 50mV AC. This only works if you have a DVM with a 2V AC or less setting. AC noise can produce a surge in the ECM signals. I've gotta ask did you do a W-T ground wire mod? This would resolve the A/C noise problem. As for testing the noise...

Works if there is someone ahead of you but if you live out here where I do it's common to come home night or leave early morning and not see anyone for miles. Still an OK way of getting around the lighting issue. If the pattern is poor from a low quality housing brighter bulb is just going to make a brighter poor pattern still. It was a another old time member here that made the comment about optics and I admit I ignored him but now after seeing excellent optics just nothing comes close. Like for years I ran seal beam tractor lights that were 100w bulbs halogen but again the optics got poor and the life span was getting shorter and the bulb price was getting higher. Two bulbs on lo beam and two bulbs on hi beam. Was again a OK solution but pattern and optics were say average. The old system with high quality SilverStar halogen bulbs and tractor bulbs was huge electrical draw worse with Sport headlights. 45w (90w pair) on lo beam and 65w (130w pair) on hi beam. Then two 100w (200w pair) tractor lights. Total was 290w (22.3 Amps) this was on low beam, then 330w (27.5 Amps) on hi beam. Here was the Sport Headlight and my old school tractor lights. Now with the current setup Morimoto D2S HID's and 530 PIAA LED driving lights. High and low beam use the same bulb and use a shutter to create hi/lo beam. Hi and Lo Beams now are Morimoto HID's are 35w and the PIAAs are 18w. Double both for a total of 106w (8.8 Amps) which this is a 312% saving of power and reduction of load on the alternator. More light, less drag. You can see the hot spot of the PIAAs but the light span is the Morimoto's... Here is hi beam... You can see the arc in the center this grows quite large with distance.

Still it could be the pop pressure is too low. @pepsi71ocean only had 28k miles on his injectors and they dropped to 260 bar and the minimum is 293 bar. I've had a set barely last 7k miles and had a injector that drop pop pressure and created a miss too. It's possibly. You could pull them out and send them to DAP and they will test them for you.

@dripley We know have the rubber chicken song.

Thank you. Beam me up Scotty or they come to take me away...

I got a phone call from a guy I've done work for in the past (injectors and dual disc clutch). Call me up and lets me know that why he past me like I was standing still last night. He was coming from McCall, ID and already had the dash chiming at him for low battery voltage. The alternator failed he made it close to my place about 5 miles south of home. I went down snatched the batteries out brought them to the shop and used the big battery charger on them for an hour a piece at 40 Amps. Asked a friend to give me a ride back so I could install the batteries and get the truck to my house. No problem started up and got it moving down the pavement. Simple fix just get a fresh alternator and while I've got the truck I'm suppose to do a oil cooler gasket being he's leaking lots of coolant around the gasket.

Just had a local gent call me and want to tow in a 2012 Ram 6.7L truck with error codes and no start condition. After doing the key trick I found a list of error codes. P1CEF P0593 P0580 P0606 P0869 P0562 P0606 This is the exact order the codes came off the dash. I gave @Auto Computer Specialist a call and it going to be $500 to get that ECM fixed up.

I've got purpose to driving at night and bad weather. When you consider your safety and the need for driving at night the only thing I can say is invest in high quality lighting. There is just no substitute for quality lighting. Being both of my trucks started with factory headlights which were poor from the get go. If your vision is poor you should consider quality lighting only if you know your going to drive at night. I put down 1,000 miles a week taking care of @MoparMom dialysis treatments. As winter time comes on I have to drive in the dark starting the trip and end my trip coming home in the dark from Ontario, OR. Being I've tried a few different options and ideas so far the best is the HID's. I'm know most hate the LED bulbs but I'm going to play with the idea on the 1996 Dodge 1500. There is a problem. Halogen and HIDs can produce enough heat to keep snow and ice off the headlights. LED's like my PIAAs tend to snow over really easy being there is little heat to a LED light. Why I'm consider on playing with the idea see what the technology is like for headlight bulbs. My only fear is the pattern is going to be all over the map or have some sort of cutoff line in the low beam. As for the switch back bulbs I love them because it's a low cost safety upgrade for long haul driving. Leave your parking lights on and the markers are white light like most modern little cars and trucks are doing for halo rings and marker lights.

@Me78569 was there a firmware update released for the Quadzilla? Yeah the MPG code wasn't finished it was kind of left hanging. The only thing it will report is the Gallons consumed. For the normal 98.5 to 2002 Dodge profile.

Sign of wore out injectors. How many miles on the truck?

It is typically hung near the battery on the 1989 to 1993. then on the 1994 to 1998 is on the firewall on the passenger side

Yeah.. I just had one towed here and dropped in the yard with P0606 code. Then I just got a call for a second one stuck about 5 miles south of me. Both are 2012 Ram 6.7L trucks.