Mopar1973Man

What?! I get busy and... Ok, so your going to give away my little secret. Yup I do have a girlfriend in Nampa, ID. No, she whe work in the medical field. No, she owns a small car Kia or Hundai. No, our schedule rarely match up. Back as for the lawn mowers mine has a bit more than 40 hours on the engine and working good. I've got a few slow leaking tires I need to fix on that. Should do that tomorrow. Need to mow my lawn.

Here is the article on my gauge setup. This is the line you need to buy... It goes from the bottom of the stock filter to the VP44. Comes with a push lock tee for your fuel pressure gauge.

Now the dumb thing came back to work again. This unit its time is limited and will be replaced. I'll use it for all I can till it dies again.

As of about 3 hours ago. This Samsung Network Extender quit. I managed to get 24 hours of service from it and then now its stuck trying to get a GPS signal again for E911 calls and drop the cell signal. I called Verizon they are going to do a full replacement of the unit and upgrade to 4G network extender because they plan on making this unit obsolete. Ships Monday morning and should be here Wednesday. 315 number is down for the time.

Just double checking make sure there wasn't anything simple missed. Sound like your up to date. When you got time post that tune.

I'm wondering do you have the most current flash on the Quadzilla? Are you Up to date on the iQuad App?

AirDog 150 to the stock fuel filter. Then called Eric at Vulcan Performance and order a big line kit for the stock fuel filter to VP44. This keeps the fuel heater for winter operation. This keeps the water in fuel light operation. Fuel temp will closely follow IAT temperature. This is a good thing.

I kept my stock fuel filter double filters is a bonus. If you seen the amount that 3um AirDog filter will pass and a 7um stock filter will still catch.

ZERO. There is cell tower 25 miles to the south of me (New Meadows, ID) and 15 mile to the north of me (Riggins, ID). But ZERO cell coverage here at home. Now have 3G service at home and cellphone works fine. Text messaging people all morning and made a few phone calls last night. Wonderful little unit.

Ok. I've done some range measurements. I can walk from fence to fence north to south and keep at least 2 bars of signal on the entire property. I did this with a active phone call last night and was sure surprised. Audio quality is excellent still. No difference in a phone call at all. Now done some tweaking to my Ubuntu Linux added KDE Connect to my PCs and GC Connect on my cellphone now I can do all the text messaging from a true keyboard. All new messages show up on the screen or if the phone rings it shows on the screen too. This makes it so I can leave my phone on the charger and still use the PC to control the phone. This con now be reversed too the phone can be used to control the PC. Not done much this way but I'll play with it. The cellphone controls on the right. Verizon Network extender on the left and the Frontier Communications DSL box on the right.

I was checking signal strength it stretches out into my neighbors yard I've still got 3 bars after reaching fence on the north side. Testing by sending SMS messages from my 740 number to my 315 number. Yup works fine. Send at SMS to friend in Ontario. Yup works. Now tried Mom's TracFone (AT&T) no dice. Seems it has to be Verizon customers. More to come.

Might want to follow my write up no issues... Even @mr.obvious has built a setup similar and I'll have to get photos and post up later.

They will take care of you. Keep being persentence.

I now have cell service at home. I found a refurbished Verizon Network Extender for a whole $70 bucks on Amazon. I figure it would be a good experiment. After getting the box yesterday and then no manual. You have to call Verizon to register the unit. Once done then the unit will take close to 1 hour to setup after plugging in. It need to be near a window for the GPS location for E911 calls. My unit happens to be a Samsung that is 3G signal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075TF8B32 Very surprised after the hour I've got cell coverage at home now with 3G signal. I'll report back more when I've used it more.

Timing difference on the HR VP44. That's it.

Yup. Need to back down. Drop -2° from all timing max sliders. Try again this should about get you -10°F coolant and the engine load should drop about 4% roughly for 65 MPH. Double check your cruise timing too might drop back that 2° too.

Back to the OP. @mmoyle I would normally just fill the compressor with the amount of oil through the fill plug in the side of the body. Being your replacing so much just fill the compressor and then install. Replace the seals as you go makes sure to put a bit of oil and all fresh seals. Then pull a vacuum and test for leaks. If it holds exactly the same amount of vacuum for over 5 to 10 minutes I typically just start charging the system. I typically just put the full 3 cans (12 ozs) to a 2nd Gen Dodge. That will get just about right a bit over charged but no harm typically.

OEM last 350k miles on my truck. As for NAPA they have nearly 50k miles still doing good. Factory style.

The solenoid noise is most likely the prime cycle of the injectors. They all chatter a bit as the key is ON and waiting for grid heaters.

Moved as requested...

Normal. Mine does the exact same thing. After running under load and coasting to a light out of gear it will surge or lope mildly. Once you come to complete stop the lope stops. Nothing that can be done about it. In my case it mostly the pop pressure my 7 x 0.010 (150 HP) are set for at 320 bar which creates this mild lope coasting to a stop. You could switch the Quadzilla to level 0 and test again this will rule out Quadzilla issues. Even mine will continue to lope with the Quadzilla turned off. (Level 0). Strictly injectors now at that point and the ECM. APPS sensor does NOT control idle. Only the ECM does. Once the IVS switch in the APPS is set for idle position then the ECM ignores the APPS completely and uses the onboard idle software of the ECM. The ECM is not programmed for large injectors so it commands a tiny amount and tends to overshot the mark and then cuts fuel. This now creates the lope. Mine will bounce 700 to 900 RPM coasting to a stop totally normal.

This is based on load based timing then how low your 1,500 RPM and 2,000 RPM timing max is. For example if you have 15° for 1,500 RPM then Load Based timing is set for 3° then it is 15° minus 3° making the timing 12° till the engine load is 100% then it will equal to the 1,500 timing max again. Cruise timing load limit will also dictate when this will occur. Like my previous tune is set for 20% 0% to 19% engine load timing will be 15° plus the setting for cruise timing. The trick is to monitor engine oil temperature and keep it -10°F compared to coolant your timing will be close. Above coolant temp is too advanced. Then -20°F vs coolant temp is too retarded. Pulling fuel is not going to spool faster. You need more fuel to spool quicker. Then the Low PSI timing reduct needs to be more to get the deep retard to push more expanding fuel and exhaust gases towards the turbine to spool up. Once spooled up and making boost this option drops out and the normal timing kicks in. Might suggest 5° and 50% or maybe 75% to get the depth of retard to spool quickly.

I've seen alternators wear a slot in the bracket and the alternator and bounce. Not often but it does happen.

Call ACS on warranty. Then you might get a clue on what to test for or look for.

On the Stock APPS it is based on voltage in must fall below the tag voltage at least 0.1 below. On Timbo's its based on bellcrank angle, no voltage used. Just replace it with Timbo's. The voltage should NOT be adjusted on a Stock APPS. Absolutely. Been running Timbo's on my exhaust brake for over 7 years now. No issues. Compare... Stock APPS and the IVS circuit. Then Timbo's APPS without any electronics.