Mopar1973Man

Full diagnostic documents for your codes. Corrected definitions.

The other thing that should be looked at is fuel pressure. Would be a good idea to check on too with a test gauge.

There is a expert function to the OBDLink where you can use Bluetooth terminal and call commands to the computers (PCM and ECM).

White cotton looking fiberglass.

Moog and Spicer are junk. Like myself I've got a cheap set of AC Delco's in my truck still going strong.

I've been working in my spare time to get more wood split and stacked. Being that winter is starting late here I'm not really using mush wood right now. Still got 2 more cords suppose to be delivered soon. Like this morning it 44*F and mild here little rain in the night.

Might be easier to take a torch blow a hole through the ball joint, push the stud out and then using hacksaw like score the cup and hit with a hammer it will fall out. No more fighting for me. So much easier to remove stubborn ball joints.

Just best to skip that method unless you have a 2002 then it works correctly. 98.5 - doesn't work 99 - doesn't work 00 - may work but only PCM codes. 01 - may work PCM only typically late 01 might have the early 02 software. 02 will report both ECM and PCM correctly.

My OBDLink LX will work on any thing. CEL lit or not.

I met @Wet Vette back in April 10 of 2019. We have been dating for some time off and on through the summer. She had a bit of misfortune and lost her job. I told her to move in with me. We are trying to get everything organized and working better. Hence why I've been out and not around much. Now that we are getting caught up I asked her to meet my other family.

Possibly. That why we need the error codes and test fuel pressure. These two test will rule out what is possibly going on.

No has zero to do with the turbo or wastegate. Most error codes do not produce a check engine light. Yes use a OBDII code reader and the list will be given of what is wrong. Now when you do list the numbers here and well look up the codes together.

I'd just reach into my A/C seal kit and grab a few o-rings till I got the right one.

Nope has nothing to do wit it. Need to test for error codes and fuel pressure. Then check fuel pressure. If fuel pressure is to low it can't advance timing hence the white smoke. There could be a P0216 code that is timing code of the VP44 which is cause from low fuel lubricity and low fuel pressure. Once the pump housing gets hot the the timing piston will move again. Hence driving normally. Most likely a bad VP44 but error codes and fuel pressure test will bring that forward. This is a seized timing piston.

Dig deeper my friend you'll find that it is close to GL-4 but not making the grade because it just too thin.

That's the problem I would say for longevity sake to go towards a thicker lube so it clings to the bearings and gears more. Most 6 speed owners will whine about shift performance. Like using a thin oil in the engine will reduce engine drag and make starting easy but will not protect well in high temperatures. Thin oils will be flung from parts much easier. Being there is no oil pump in NV5600 its all about splash feeding and cling of the oil to protect. Like myself I ditch the whole spec thing and started looking for other solutions for lube oils in both NV4500 and NV5600. I dropped the 75w-85 for straight 50 SAE fluid which is actually straight 90 gear lube. So the factory fluid for the NV4500 is like a 10w-40 engine oil. NV5600 like Pennzoil syncromesh doesn't list a viscosity but it's classified as to thin to make the GL-4 spec. The 75w-85 makes the GL-4 spec. That means the PennzOil is thinner than what is listed. I can say that as long as the lube oil meet a GL-4 spec it should work. GL-4 spec is for all transmissions with syncros (yellow metal or synthetic). Just remember that these gear boxes under serious loads can surpass the 200 to 220*F of fluid temps and with a thin oil getting thinner I can see where the 6 speed failures come from. Remember there is no oil pump just splash feed oiling. Just always remember that Dodge is willing to drain and fill both NV4500 and NV5600 with ATF+4 now. I know that is super thin and does not meet the GL-4 spec at all.

Preheat is controlled by the IAT sensor. Post heat is controlled by the battery temp sensor

The problem I see with NV5600 transmission... Even one keeps leaning on the thinner fluids (what spec suggests) by under load and temperature the fluid is thinner and fluid isn't thick enough to cling to bearings in the heat. Why they have bearing failures and need to over fill. Just remember PennzOil Syncromesh is too thin to make the GL-4 rating. Other than that its build on GL-4 technology just the oil is just too thin to be labelled as such. Just like Dodge Dealers filling with ATF now. Shift quality is super good but the protection of bearings and such suck because the lube is too thin.

I've got all Felpro from the head up. No issues here.

No. I've got barely 2 cords of wood split and stacked. Going to be a tight winter for heating. I'm hoping my horse trading works out and I get 2 more cords of wood split from doing a heater core in 3rd Gen.

TPS value doesn't hold any meaning really. It the engine load that holds value. Engine load is the amount of fuel being spray vs. injector pop pressure.

MN... IIRC is 5% bio fuel state. Biodiesel is high in Vet and and requires timing to backed down or retarded slightly to reduce the ignition knock.

You need to do research on your local fuels and when the winterized fuel starts and when it ends. Then find out with the cloud point is and the pour point. This will get you away from worrying about anti-gel products. To this day I've never used any anti-gel products and never gelled up yet. Even with winter temps as low as -40*F. Make sure you stick to the quality fuels during the winter time. Avoid biofuels if possible.

I had this argument about 10 years ago over on CF. People thinking like a gasser where the fuel and air must be mixed perfect. Diesels are very wide bandwidth of fuel to air ratio. This includes shutting down fuel completely. The other thing we are experimenting with is higher than normal pop pressures for efficiency and longevity purpose. So far a handful of us have tested quit a span of pressure. Stock is 310 (4,500 PSI) bar. I'm running 320 bar (4,641 PSI) at 20 to 22 MPG @Me78569 ran 330 bar (4786 PSI) and was hitting seriously good MPGs. The upper end of the spec is 327 bar (4,750 bar) for information purpose. Few others went as high as 360 bar and found starting issues. The longevity part is if stock is 310 bar you only get to 293 bar (4,250 PSI) and your below spec for Dodge FSM book. About 280 bar (4,061 PSI) and things change, smoke increase, MPG is lower, etc. With the 320 bar I'm running I'm hoping to touch about 100k to 150k miles on the injectors before replacing. With some injector builders they will pop lower like 300 or 305 bar to increase fuel flow. Makes for poor atomization of the fuel. This is great for racing but not good for MPG. Lower the pop pressure the earlier the injection event occurs (advanced timing). When you increase the pop pressure say to 320 bar the ECM has to command fuel more to get the injector to even open. This tend to occur slightly later. (Retarded timing). Now using the Quadzilla Adrenaline you can make up for the offset in timing by just building a tune for those injectors. Optimally for MPG purposes you want the lowest engine load or commanded fuel. I typically float about 17% engine load at 65 MPH. With extremely cool EGT's at 550 to 600*F.

Just remember you going to sacrifice street performance and MPG going to mechanical. I would personally keep the electronics and the VP44. There is no way you can get better street performance with static timing and old school technology. So far all the people here that I know that swapped out no longer drive the vehicle because of too many issues and ended up buying 4th gen to get away from the headaches. Then quit driving the truck because it got way expensive now guessing on how to fix the franken-truck.