Mopar1973Man

I'll make it some how. Scrap up a few hundred more and change the radiator out. I was planning on doing a coolant flush before the transmission failed. I've got the coolant, thermostat and now replace the radiator. Ugh!

Washer was replaced in the transfer case when I did my transmission and clutch install. No problem all back together and no leaks.

Yup, Friday the 13th and a full moon has struck me... Got the transmission and clutch done went out for a short test drive and came back check for leaks or issues. Sure enough the driver side tank blew out started leaking just above the drain cock. Redneck fix. I cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap. This will allow the pressure to escape the radiator and not build pressure. I made 84 mile test drive and no issues. I've got a replace radiator in Ontario, OR waiting for me. $282 dollars for a replacement radiator. Oh well... Radiator lasted 392k miles and header tank seal failed.

New clutch says "Go for it!" The transmission is "OK" with the idea. My wallet is say "Try fat boy... I leave you on the street broke". Seriously it turned out awesome I really do like the setup. Sad part is I'm met with a new failure today. Radiator tank rubber seal failed on the driver side. More in another thread...

Still got to use GL-4 fluid on brass or carbon fiber. With the Mobil 50 Trans fluid I would float them if I wanted. My old carbon fiber syncros looked great but if I'm paying for a rebuild might as well replace them.

Yup. Just got done with the exact same problem. My last rebuild the lower gear was replaced but this gear wasn't. Fatigue took its toll and sheared off the whole patch of teeth. Now both gears are replaced and new brass syncros. No carbon fiber. Still running the 50 SAE Mobile Trans Fluid.

As for the transmission and clutch combo.... Valair clutches have my vote for sure. Wow! I love this clutch and how soft the pedal is. Engages way at the top of the pedal swing. Grabbed good and strong. As for the transmission it shifts smooth. Just with the dual disc clutch its a bit slow to take in 5th gear. Rotational mass to slow down then it slides right in smooth. Really got to relearn how to drive it. Engagement is way different and the pedal is so soft. Launching has a bit of chatter in the beginning but after playing around running from home to Riggins to New Meadows I put on 84 miles on the clutch. Things calmed down quite a bit as it broke in. As for the syncros that is way different from the old carbon fiber syncros. Way easy shifting and down shift easier at higher RPM's. Some of the shift issues were from the pilot bearing issue.

LOL... There is of lot others things to deal with before thinking about bigger injectors. But I love to mess with you guys.

You must got to the menu select Data Logging. Then while the engine is still running export the data logs to a email. Then when you get the email you can shut down the truck. Then view the data logs. Once you shut down the Quadzilla no longer holds the data.

EVIC now shows...

The fly on the wall and watching the thread... 7 x 0.010 up to 7 x 0.012 hmmm...

Well not far off from my 102 foot pounds that my flywheel was torqued too.. Thank @Dynamic !!

Question what is the acronym EVIC stand for? (Gonna add it to the acronym database).

Like on my manual (clutch install) its 102 foot/pounds for the flywheel. @Dynamic would know exactly what is a good number.

That why I say rule of thumb... Doesn't away fit exactly but gives a good idea of what the person is capable of making. Like @dieselautopower pointed out he's only making 65 PSI but over 1,000 HP to the wheels.

There is exactly what was done. Still cheaper than any 6 speed rebuild... I'll get pictures of the broke stuff I brought it all home.

I left this morning to head down for the transmission. Total bill for the rebuild.$1,547.00 Some upgrade... No carbon fiber syncro's. All Brass syncros. Failure is two fold we figure. 1. Is the pilot bearing coming out of the flywheel ruined most of the front bearings and the mainshaft. The pilot bearing ruined the clutch and the bearings on the front end. 2. The 5th gear failure we both think because last rebuild the lower (larger gear) was replaced last time. Then the upper gear on the mainshaft was the OEM with 392k miles and 90% of my travels are in 5th gear so the metal got fatigue and strip a large amount of teeth off the upper smaller gear dropping the debris into the lower gear doing more damage as it did. I got home about 4:30pm from Boise, ID. I managed to install the Valair Dual Disc Clutch and get the transmission stabbed by 7:30pm. I'm going to quit for now and fix my transfer case. The washer that fell out last time. Then install the rest of the remaining parts. Sling of ratchet straps worked like a dream again. Got it off the floor and then strapped to the floor jack. Lifted and just push it in the hole with little effort. Thread the 4 bolt in to ride on and wiggled a bit more and BAM! Seated like it was meant too.

One of the few reasons I like the Stealth Plate over conventional tapping of the pump. Is the Edge Comp used? Is it the right series (early 2nd gen or late 2nd gen).

I know DAP will pop injectors to anything you wish. I can't speak for other builders I've heard 3rd hand that some are only their way or the highway. At least have them repopped under warranty.

Remember there VP44 body and the fuel filter housing is aluminum and takes very little torque to ruin the threads. I've seen this happen where owner said it was weeping and tighten more and ruin the threads in the VP44. He had already torqued it enough to tear up the rubber seal washer. If it was all steel parts different story. Steel fitting in a aluminum body don't take that much.

I'll do it again. Normal floor jack and no adapter plates or weird stuff. Just a single ratchet strap. As for getting the transmission off the floor that is easy too. Two ratchet strap and sling it up in the air. Then place your floor jack and use that single ratchet strap to hold on the jack. Raise into position. Best if the truck is flat on the ground. Even got a board rigged for even G56 transmissions. Auto or manual you can do single ratchet strap.

Rule of thumb. For every 1 PSI of boost is roughly flywheel +10 HP. Just the jump from the HX35 to the HX35/40 Hybrid was a fairly big increase of CFM flow. Boost never changed. Still the same 45-47 PSI roughly. I do hit the choke point on a performance tune where my economy tune the choke point isn't an issues at all. Quadzilla give you the ability to tune for your hardware.

Timing on the 1500 band slide it down 1 degree. Injector issues. Rather common for most builders to set for 300 bar or 305 bar. This will improve flow but shortens the life span of the injector and the MPG are typically lower as a result. Like myself I went up in pop pressure to 320 bar for MPG and longevity reasons. 310 bar is stock injector pop pressure. 293 bar is the bottom limit. Most injectors can drop 10 bar in mere 10k to 20k miles just settling or breaking in.

Yeah that is a 3rd Gen truck looks like a early 3rd gen like 03 ot 04 realm. @Evan driving a older Kenworth eh?

Just remember to put even less torque on the JIC nut. Really sucks when you go to unscrew the nut of the JIC fitting and it unscrews the male fitting out of the VP44. Then you got to separate the fitting and the JIC nut.