Mopar1973Man

The difference is using the timing of the Quadzilla tune to allow me to keep lower RPM's. No need to wrap it up high to keep MPG's.

That's the best answer so far. Way better than a low volume 12 volt compressor.

Typically the starter armature brushes cause the loss of power. One one brush fails out of the 4 then you half power.

Starter can be hot wired by jumping the brown solenoid to the red battery lead. As for ignition you kind of dependent on the rest of the electrical system.

Just posting the knowledge I've seen in lift kits and the screw up people have made. That includes using a com-a-long to put the axle over enough to get the track bar in because of a 2 inch leveling kit install. Never done leveling kit on either 3rd or 4th gen yet. Then the axle offset issues that they fought. As for photo be another day being its raining all week here.

Preferred. The axle will shift on the 2nd gen without a adjustable track bar. Because of how the axle works on the 2nd Gen the axle swings down that extra inch and typically pulls the axle more to the driver side. Just best for the geometry factor.

Must of been a 3rd gen issue. At least mine for a 2nd Gen has never hit the bump stops in the front axle and the axle is long ways from the pan.

All my old air tools tend to eat up air quickly. I've done weird crap with a pancake compressor and air tools just really sucks when the air runs out before the nut or bolt comes loose. I've got a 20 gallon compressor (120 VAC) and my 1/2 impact on one wheel doing 8 lug nuts is enough to make it weak for the second tire. Forget doing 3rd or 4th tire air is gone and that's a 20 gallon compressor. I know those little compressor have a slow recovery rate being they the CFM's are rather low compared to a larger shop compressor. Yeah the battery power impact guns are pricey but... A single charge can do days worth of work without recharging. No hose, no cords, just work. Even at my shop we've got a 60 gallon compressor (220 VAC) and even the owners guns eat air rather fast but the compressor is big enough to keep up though.

I could understand this for inflating tires. But, I would never try air driven tools like a impact gun. Now been at my new shop I've fallen in love with a the land owners DeWalt battery power impact gun. That thing is a super strong and doesn't have cord or hose. Awesome tool

Kind of wish I had rail caps on my bead now after all the time sliding the canopy on and off has done its damage.

Personal I don't see any value in leveling a truck. Every time you hitch up a trailer or put a load in the bed it will look like a squatting Ford truck. If I want my truck leveled just hitch up a trailer and go to work. It's leveled. Only cost the fuel of dragging around the trailer or the load in the bed.

Made a trip yesterday and no real difference in cooling capacity. Just nice to not have a leaking header tank. Fresh coolant and thermostat kept the coolant at 195 to 197*F like normal.

Not really. Depends on the final ratio to the ground. I'm typically shifting to 4th gear by 25 MPH city driving. When you drop to 245's for tires this changes the final ratio to 3.69:1 and 4th gear can be as low as 25 MPH and still float 1,300 RPM nearly. As for weakness. I've broke the mainshaft but never had a 5th gear nut problem. My last failure I ate 5th gear at 80 MPH but never broke the input shaft that every one says is weak. Strong points, 3rd is pretty strong the amount of BS I pour to mine. Typically 3rd is strong enough to spin the tires free on dry asphalt.

Bigger turbo will still be laggy and bit Smokey depending how low you want it to spool.

Correct. I got the larger lens, standard ballast, standard 35w bulb 5k. The H1 Mini's have a reduced beam path when the D2S lens wider path of light. Shroud has to be changed to fit the lens. My increase of price was a rush order and shipping went up big time.

Try Bully Bars... https://bullyusa.com/step-bars-nerf-bars-running-boars.html

Sounds to be firmware issue... Educated guess.

The typical method of manual turning on and off the lock up is more problematic than what @IBMobile posted up.You can lock it up but the brake pedal will cancel it. I know @IBMobile can explain it better.

Any is fine. As long as you get a good flow into the copper and bind and seal the cable. This will aid in keeping oxidation from occurring.

Blue wire is because the tracer is burned in the PCM. It can be repaired possibly. I'm my case the tracer burned a hole in the printed circuit board. There is a write up to keep this from happening a second time.

Blue wire - If there is no +12V after tach signal (engine running) then the PCM is fried. Green wire - is the variable ground.

Remember Quadzilla is a 180 HP tuner on just a stock truck. I've ran 7 x 0.0085 VCO Injectors (+75 HP) and 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar VCO injectors (+150 HP). Seriously huge jump in power compared to Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. With the way I'm set up its possible for me to break the tires loose in just about any gear. My last trip on the interstate I twisted out 21.39 MPG at 80 MPH using my economy tune.

OEM oil cooler...

Throw a support ticket and I'll look into in my spare time heading to work for the day...

I run about the same numbers. My last trip over to the GF place in Nampa was... 98 mile trip, 4.582 gallons - 21.39 MPG on my Quadzilla Economy tune. Your 22.2 MPG is pretty good for a new truck. I wonder how the number will change with age and mileage.