Mopar1973Man

Could be injection pump issue but I'm not going to point that direction yet. Now using a live data tool like OBDLink LX or ScanGauge II at key on you want to look at both ECT (coolant temp) and IAT (intake temp) should match. If IAT is lower than normal timing is advanced. If the IAT is higher than normal then the timing will be retarded. Typically at key on the two values match (no block heater). Now during driving, fully warmed up the IAT will be about +40*F over outside temperature. This is just a rule of thumb. ECT should be in the 190 to 200*F range normally fully warmed up. These two temperatures can affect timing. Then how many miles on the injectors? If the injectors have over 100k miles then the injectors could be popping too low. 293 bar is the bottom limit for injectors according to the Dodge FSM. Just my factory stock injectors at 150k miles where as low as 260 bar, still ran good, fuel mileage was down but still functional. Just because it runs doesn't mean it spraying fuel with a good pattern and atomization could be poor.

Why not? That was Dodge OEM parts. Oh, that's right OEM isn't what it was 17 years ago. I would. Winter is coming and 4WD usage will go up and sucks to do these in the cold.

Out here 99% your solo on the highway night driving and winter weather. High beams, and driving lights are a must. LED Light Bars. Not cool. Very blinding..

Edge Comp and Hot Rod Pump. Too much timing, too advanced. Should never run a tuner on a Hot Rod Pump which is stacking timing being the Hot Rod Pump has added timing mechanically and then the Edge Comp is stacking more on top. Then to make matters worse the Edge Comp has no adjustment to retard some timing. If you switch the Comp for Quad that could be fixed. P0380 and P0382 is grid heaters like Dave said. Just that if the wires are hooked up it could be the solenoids are wore out. If you live in a non-smog area and warm climate then you can ignore this and the truck will be fine it not a requirement for operation in warm states down south. Ohio well, you might need it for the winter time. P0237 code. Pull the Edge Comp lead and return to stock and erase the codes. If the codes remains away then the Edge Comp boost fooler is damaged and will need to be replaced. Which could be a good thing and fix the shutter problem above.

That is why I liked the wider angle of the D2S lens. I've got the same problem lots of early morning and early evening deer and elk. Like last night there was a deer stand right next to the guard rail of the highway. Lot of times they stand right in the road side ditch. With standard headlight this area is very dimly lit with any light. Like my 1996 with clear lens headlight and SilverStar halogen have that same stockish problem plenty of light on the highway road edge is will rather dim in light if any at all. This is mostly the poor quality of the headlight housing its self. If I wanted better pattern I would be continuing to change housing till I got a good pattern. Bulb's won't do anything but make it bright in the same pattern since the reflector won't change.

Then some of us Dodge wise have NEVER had death wobble. Neither the 96 or 02 Dodge Rams have had a death wobble problem ever. Shocking to see a military vehicle of this size to have death wobble as bad as it was.

Very impressive lights all ganged together. Plenty of light to navigate down the road the forest you are traveling through.

When warm up mode it use the Quadzilla locks to the level 0 as the warm up feature keep the fuel map locked to 0 PSI value till it reaches the set temperature. Then the level returns back to your set level and the high idle is disabled. Like @Me78569 said its designed that way to to pull the level down to 0 and use the high idle in level 0.

I went with the cheapest junk on RockAuto YEARS ago still tight. I think it was AC Delco. Got over 200k miles on them now.

I seen the difference between the lenses.. D2S lens (lo beam) Larger lens cast more light to the side of the road. H1 mini (unknown brand) more focus on aiming light only on the road surface. Your H1 mini is narrow path compared to the D2S lens that is much wider. Looks like you got the same housing I've got. Just using a halogen bulb vs. HID bulb for the light source. Excellent pattern though, good cut off... Just narrow.

That what I'm getting at there there just so few that actually create thermostats and just name brand vs. store brand might find out are the same thermostat. Then like I uncovered Cummins thermostats are NOT produced by Cummins. Like the Gates I've got came from RockAuto.com. Where the rest of my collection comes from NAPA. At the time NAPA did n't list a 200 available anywhere in Idaho hence to just try the 200*F I had to get it from another source. I even tried Autozone and other chain stores. No 200*F thermostat available. I was of the same feeling too that Gates should of been a quality product to only be let done as well at least for me. Not like I wouldn't try again I would try another Gates as well.

Quite a few people jumped ship from a 2nd gen to 4th gen trucks.

That is steady enough. Not seeing any 0% or 100% or other wild numbers while held steady right? Then the APPS is good then. 0.4% TPS change is nothing and acceptable.

DAP 7 x 0.010 injectors (+150 HP) on a 60/60/12 HX35/40 Hybrid turbo. I'm much smaller than every one else and just nearly the same as a HE351 (60/60/9) that lot of people like as a upgrade on these trucks.

I wouldn't tighten that much. Just lightly snug at best. New sealing washer should seal just with a snug torque.

Yeah remember that is blinding on coming vehicles too. With HID that trick no longer works but why would need it when 35w HIDs are so much brighter that 100w of halogen.

Being a vendor and being able to buy at wholesale cost. That's the whole trick...

I can't do this... Then I would lose the house. I'm the owner of 3 acres of property and two houses. Not cool to leave MoparMom without a home. Easy enough just retard the timing back 2° and the power is reduced on the performance tune. My economy tune is starts out way low at 70% fuel and retarded timing as well no design for pulling power but economy.

Rebuilding a NV5600 is nearly 3 times the price of my NV4500. Don't forget my cancer treatment has got me bogged down with about $20,000 of debt now and I can't just hop in a modification mode and spend huge amount of money. The only bonus I got was the price between a single disc and a dual disc clutch was a difference of 20 bucks. Now that is a upgrade I'll pony up for... Hence why I opened a shop and working 7 days a week now. Just to keep bills paid heck I even worked on Sunday. I've got just barely enough to do what I'm doing now. I'm going to be broke again. Then if I continue running the 1996 Dodge that is costing me $0.21 cents a mile ($210 a week in fuel) vs the Cummins which is as low as $0.15 cents a mile ($150 a week in fuel). Now figure 1,000 miles a week. The half ton will bleed me financially right now. Now if I didn't have to pay off $20,000 worth of cancer treatment and driving MoparMom back and forth for dialysis treatments I would upgrade and move on to a G56 modification if possible. But when 90% of my income is spent before I get it... I'm stuck.

Still as I post this only 52°F this morning and rained over 0.77 inches already. Global warming is over and now for global cooling mode.

Same here mine is rain soaking right now. Nothing in the shed but just barely a 0.5 cord.

Just goes to show NAPA thermostat is much more stable than a Brand name like Gates. Being the Gates 200°F thermostat is being crazy my NAPA 192°F is hovers at about 197°F.

Nothing new. It's just a mere 51°F here this morning. I've already seen a few mornings as low as 35°F already. Attic is insulated and the heat pump is running this morning. I've gotta start looking at getting firewood split and stack soon.

That would be cool to be put together as a write up in the RV section.

Stock is the 160A alternator according to NAPA.