Mopar1973Man

More to add to this and learning still. When you watching engine oil temperature for tuning make sure to run a good long distance to get a stable engine oil temperature. Like for me the run to Riggins, ID is a 1% grade down hill. This gives a fake low oil temperature reading. Make sure to do you measure after a good climb or long straight run. Like today I made a trip to McCall, ID and that is a 70 to 80 mile trip roughly. This is plenty plus climbing a 7% grade to get stable oil temperature reading. As for my weekend I've made two trips to McCall, ID on this tank of fuel. I'm only down 3/8 of tank at 300 miles. I'm really wanting to see the fill up numbers on this tank. I've got plenty of fuel to make the trip to Ontario, OR yet. I've seen now another weird one which might bring the IAT back to the mix for Quadzilla. Like my trips to Ontario, OR start at 7:15am in the morning and the whole trip down is typically downhill following the Weiser River. There is several grades to climb over and drop into the next valley. Typically my oil temperature in the morning is a nice -15°F then by afternoon the temperature down in Ontario has been 100°F or better. Now the IAT rises up and the timing needs to retard some because oil temperature is up near matching each other. This remains the entire trip home. Morning temperatures here have been in the 50's most of the time a few mornings bottom of 60's. Like this morning was 59°F. The timing is a weebit too retarded in the cool morning and the oil temp remains cool sided. Now I'm trying to figure out the math to control timing and using IAT.

The MAP sensor code was tossed because the 5V signal voltage is too low so that push the sensor out of range on the low side trip the P0237 code. It might be wiring... But you might end up sending the ECM in for repair.

OK then we are back to the thermostats. Again two different thermostats from two different manufactures. But sold as OEM replacements by Cummins. Bingo. Again Mopar reboxed and branded another fan clutch to be sold as OEM. But its not the same OEM fan clutch from when your truck was made. It's a totally different fan clutch and manufacture most likely.

Simple compare you GPS against a Live Data tool If they match then the speed is on. I'm less than 1 MPH off in speed. No thought required just compare two sources of speed and see if they match.

Like I've been informed by @dieselautopower they now have a tuners to just simply turn of the EGR and reduce the amount of regens that occur. No need to delete anything. So visually it passes emissions testing just the devices are logically disabled and no error codes thrown. This will open lots of doors for newer generations.

I personally consider that old wise tale...

12V section. I'm pretty sure its authored by Cowboy.

What?!?! No half and half are you kidding? There really is a shortage of 2nd gen trucks up here. The sell quick and hard to get ahold of. Even the most raty looking 2nd Gen can go for good price yet just because the engine still runs.

Just for a bit of information. The 1st Gen truck were fitted with a H1C turbo and it was a 22cm2 housing non-wastegated. This was a huge exhaust housing the 160 HP engine could breath good but impossible to over spin that turbo. HX35W turbo came to be in 1994 and be there till 2002. No such thing as a dumb question everyone learn from each other by asking questions.

From 235/85 R16 (31.7 inch) to 245/75 R16 (30.5 inch) which is a 1.2 inch difference. Now the speed difference is 5 MPH and about 200 RPM different. I'm corrected by @Chris O. CCD Network tool.

No, the part number is filled with a different manufacture. There will always be part for the part number. Just who made the part back in 2000's vs. 2010 and on into the future. The continue to fill the part slot with another part regardless. This is what I'm getting at so like @mr.obvious had a Cal-Therm thermostat now Cummins no longer uses that manufacture. Just like Mopar will use one manufacture of fan clutch then when they discontinue that manufacture they just pick up another manufacture of fan clutch. Since Mopar and Cummins don't produce them they just pick another manufacture.

Just for information purpose. Great app for your cellphone. https://www.simplyauto.app/

Info purpose...Gear is displayed and RPM. 60 MPH... 45 MPH... 35 MPH... 25 MPH...

That will make it spool slower yet. Turbo is just too big for your setup. Most people upgrade too soon or too big.

Yup, you on a 31.6 inch tire and I'm running 30.5 inch tire. 1.1 inch difference. 0.14 difference in final ratio. That exactly what he asking is if those RPM's he posted are 4.10 gear and he's wanting to find out what 3.55 gears will do. Being that both NV4500 and NV5600 have the same top two gears the transmission is not going to make a difference.

No for the vegans, or environmentalists...

I'm similar to SilverDodge. Quadzilla, DAP 7 x 0.010 injectors @ 320 bar (150 HP) and HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) by 2,000 RPM and twisting out 47 PSI of boost.

Might look for the single wheel 3500 axles I'm sure there are some around on the internet. I know its come for the 3rd gens to have single wheel 1 ton axles. I'm not sure of fitment.

Even though I'm a 5 speed at 0.75:1 in top gear vs. your 6 speed at 0.73:1. 245's tires and 3.55 gears. Final ratio 3.69:1 to the ground. 5th Gear (0.75) 66 MPH = 2,000 RPM 80 MPH = 2,500 RPM 4th Gear (1:1 Direct) 45 MPH ~ 1,900 RPM

Basically al long as nothing can touch the housing you golden. You don't see any contact marks your golden. If it still all clean your good too.

Boost or EGT's is not accurate. On a wide open stand in my truck I can hit about 47 PSI and about 1,400°F EGT's on my ISSPro gauges... Now Quadzilla shows 67 PSI of boost and 1,689°F. I know is not right.

I don't think it wiring but needing to change out both ECM and PCM to match the cluster. The PCM is the master computer, The instrument cluster is what provides the Bus Bias, then The ECM is the second computer. The problem is the PCM is running different software and sending messages the cluster does not understand. This is why there is no "NO BUS" message because it can see the bus but doesn't understand what is being said.

Like just in the thermostats its a mixed bag. As you can see just buy Cummins does guarantee you going to get the same thing. This why I don't run the Mopar or Cummins for most parts because what was used on our truck back in 1998 to 2002 that lasted so long is no longer available today and manufactured by someone else. Like this photo the one on the right that @mr.obvious wanted is made by cal-therm but no longer available. The 2 brass based thermostats look like a Gates. I know Gates produces there thermostats. But there again Cummins and NAPA are the same manufacture in that photo. You never know what Mopar or Cummins might stuff a box with and charge a high price for.

Both are Cummins one on the right new 2019 then the right is 2002 Cummins. You can no longer get the old style.

Too much timing? I would retry and knock the timing down a level ans see what happens. Excessive advancement will make it buck and surge. I've found a new trick on the Quadzilla that I'll pass along. If you excessive high in timing the oil temp will rise above coolant temp. If your to deeply retarded you can pull the oil temp below the coolant and in my test I was able to get -22°F below coolant but it was too fair retarded. This just shows where in the cycle the fire is burning. Too retarded it making boost and burn more on the downward stroke. Too advanced and it burning more in the cylinder. More or less finding you wanna float about -10°F vs coolant temp.