Mopar1973Man

Standard method disconnecting... Negative cables Positive cables Standard method connecting power again... Positive cables Negative cables APPS reset Long Term Storage without pulling cables. Pull the IOD fuse in the cab fuse panel.

If the green field wire happens to find ground, it will charge yet but full runaway mode. This will cause the boiling out of the batteries. If the blue wire shorts to ground then the PCM will fry instantly burning the circuit board out.

@Dynamic he's you best bet for keyboard tech...

Welcome to the M73M family...

Then suggest doing the W-T ground wire modc after replacing the alternator.

Default tune rarely works for people. You need to just build your own tune. Post up your tune as a file and we can help you build a tune.

Not sure on that one... I'll have to pass that up.

Actually it will hyperextend the throwout bearing. I've just seen the document with Valair's setup that make sure not to over adjust because it will do damage. Mine engages at the top of the pedal throw which is fine. It was tech at SB (Peter? IIRC) that informed me of the hyper extending issues of the throwout bearing. Yeah back when AH64ID was saying my probe needed to stay submerged I added a full quart more over the standard 4 quarts to the bottom of the hole. It continued to slowly drool out the vent on the passenger side. Went back to 4 quarts dry as a bone. There was no gain in lubing or cooling with an added quart. I got tired of the mess the extra oil made. Hence why I moved the probe to the PTO plate and returned back to 4 quart load. Interesting... Mine was slow to throw on 5th gear now its getting faster. The launching chatter is slowly going away. Bit of throw bearing noise with the pedal pressed but nothing bad.

Violation... Your altering the fuel and timing of the emissions software. Just like all of use using tuners. This is why all tuners are stated for OFF ROAD use only for track and racing. So all of running a tuner are illegal, delete tuner same deal illegal. This is one feature of Quadzilla I love I can close out the Quadzilla and shut the screen off and none the wiser when law enforcement looks in your vehicle. No tuner hanging in the window (Edge Juice) or on the dash (Edge Comp). Depending on the the state this can be a violation too being the exhaust system is covered under the guidelines to and being its be altered. I'm in the same boat. No laws out here but remember if you travel to another town, county, state, etc. and a cop wants to give you grief they could. Even if you emit a small amount of smoke they could now pull you over to inspect your truck. Adams, Co. Idaho has no smog control. But now Canyon County and Ada County both do have smog control and testing. Just depends of the mood of law enforcement.

Upper end is high inaccurate. Normal running range up to 1,200 is good beyond forget it. Boost above about 35 PSI is skewed as well. Being I'm running both a ISSPro EV2 gauge and Quadzilla Pyro as well. The normal range is about +50*F high for the most part on EGTs. Now above 1,200*F very wild numbers. If I run up to 1,300*F to 1,400*F on the ISSPro gauge the Quadzilla reported in the logs I hit 1689*F as a max at the same time making 47 PSI of boost on the ISSPro EV2 boost gauge Quadzilla report a max of 67 PSI. I know that my little HX35/40 hybrid would never make that far not to mention the head gasket. Being I monitor engine oil temperature as well I know there is no way I made 1,689*F with of EGT's but 1,300 or 1,400*F is very doable. The only two I really don't monitor on the Quadzilla is EGT or Boost I use the ISSPro gauges for accuracy. Most of the time I run the Quadzilla headless without a display and rely mostly on the ISSPro Gauges.

3rd and 4th shift ring is right up next to the input shaft. You might want to verify the pilot bearing. Yeah I know this means you have to pull the transmission. Like I found out mine started with the pilot bearing falling out of the flywheel onto the input shaft. It was causing a notchy shift for fifth gear randomly. Might happen once in week or two then never happen again. Eventually the pilot bearing wore out the bearings for the input shaft causing more vibration. It forced me to replace the mainshaft because the bearing and the race on the mainshaft was damaged. As for my new Valair dual organic disc clutch shifts great, super soft hydros using STOCK hydros! The only problem I've got is launching in 2nd gear is a bit a chatter and hop at times, like a hot spot issue but I know better. 1st gear launches pretty good lightly felt. All gears shift butter smooth when rolling. Still running the Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid. Still got super cool transmission temperature numbers. Even with 90*F temps outside and 125 miles later maybe 150-160*F transmission temperatures at 65 MPH. Again pre-bled system always tend to need to be re-bled before installing. Then most over adjust the hydros and hyper-extend the throw-out bearing needlessly. As for the Valair I installed in the 2012 had upgraded hydro's and that is a PITA to adjust and set up. No GAINS at all using upgraded hydros. My dual Valair order WITHOUT upgraded hydros and was absolutely a snap and super soft pedal. Awesome setup. This is true the center plate will float when your foot ins on the clutch pedal and make racket. With your foot off the pedal it should not move or rattle. That center disc can move because the pressure plate is clamping down on the that center plate. Not to mention the center plate is machined to a tight fit and really can move much. Launching yeah its grabby but after full engagement it should be butter smooth. Pressure plate is fully clamped down. The only thing I can suggest is back off the adjustment fully on the hydsros and make the rod as short as possible. Don't it will cause the fluid to blow out the vent and make a huge mess. 4 quarts is more than enough been there done that. No gain in 5 quarts in NV4500. Being I cover roughly 1,000 miles a week I've already got over 2k miles on the clutch already.

Yes. Never removed the turbo. Drill both holes and tapped with everything assembled. Greased my drill bit and the tap. Then used a Q-tip to pick up any metal that might of fallen through. A Q-Tip will snag any metal chips just by touching.

Finished project. For the most part. Gotta do one small task for the owner and fix his OBDII port which is complete damaged. I do have the pin assignments for the plug once again.

So far in all this I've never seen a vehicle freeze up yet in our member group. I've seen plenty of pH corrosion damage over the years. Kind of like myself. I over extended a coolant change and paid the price. oil cooler gasket $70 radiator $280 head gasket $2000 These failure could of all be avoided by just flushing out the coolant earlier and resetting the pH balance again.

Not a bad looking ride. I'm curious about turbo charging a naturally aspirated gasoline engine. I'd love to see more on this.

Been in effect for many years. Deleting any truck is a federal crime. Has been for a long time. Locally I know that no dealer will accept a deleted truck for traded in now. For a dealer to sell a deleted truck is just as bad.

I've stacked both the ISSPro and the Quadzilla exhaust pyrometer probes on the rear runner.

Even to this day my radiator is still clean on the inside of the old one. Never had a scale problem and never used distilled water. Only well or creek water used for all those years and nearly 400k miles.

Now looking at your photo @Evan... Now my Morimoto D2S lens will cast light out 50 feet past the ditch on the driver side that is very dimly lit in your photo. As for my PIAA LEDs driving lights are light your for brightness at a fraction of the current draw. Just the PIAA cast a wider path of light just as bright. I would say that is a good upgrade just got to ask if the plastic lens is getting too hot? I'll admit my LED's snow over fairly easy where you would shed snow very well.

No. Quadzilla Adrenaline v2. This is my tune for the Quadzilla Adrenaline.

Kind of like my Economy tune is built for good MPG in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM range. Then my Performance tune is 2,000 to 2,500 RPM range for good MPG. Needless to say enough power to take the teeth off 5th gear on the mainshaft at 80 MPH, which was metal fatigue after nearly 400k miles of highway. Too many people worry about launching power or down low power. My economy tune is built with low power in the bottom end so to keep the smoke controlled and not get into the wire tap. Then the power comes on above 13 PSI of boost. Giving good passing power but then flips back to mellow fuel to keep MPG up. The performance tune I'm running seems to do excellent in the upper RPM's being the timing is just a few more degrees advanced over the economy tune. Just take a second to tap the "Custom Tuning" then tap on the tune you wish and answer "yes". Changed over in flight and take advantage of the tune for the road type.

That sucks... There should be two bolts down there. Only need one bolt to hold the bracket. I'm the kind of guy that seems to use anti-seize on everything thing.

I made a 2 relay set up, Both lo's and hi's worked. Just the pattern sucked. You'll find the aux beam does nothing really but make a narrow vertical column of light. The main lights the 9007 do the most work. Even in factory set up for just hi beams on the aux light is still poor. Basically build your relay for the drivers side then just across and and feed the passenger side.

Not an exact answer. I've seen a VE pump without a rear bracket and did pretty darn good. As for VP44 they do have more weight I'd be a bit more concerned with the hanging weight. I would suggest fixing the bracket. But it won't hurt to be without the bracket for a short time while you get it repaired.

Just done a clutch on a 1992 Chevy 350 pickup. This thing was tiny compared to a NV4500 or a G56 transmission. Even this was on the two post with a transmission jack. Even with all the nice tools it still can be a turd some times to line up even with all the professional tools. It was so light I was picking the transmission off the jack and just shoved it in place. Being is was so light you tend to over do the angles really quick. My NV4500 was a bit more fun. Laying on the floor and attempting to gain enough strength to push from the floor and even wiggle that beast in place. Still in all it was a PITA to get to finally seat in place. The biggest help is to get at least two bolts that are the proper thread but much longer that stock bolts. Cut the heads off and use them for alignment pins. This basically lines everything up for a straight push. This trick applies to automatics too where you can put the pin bolts in the lower bellhousing holes and slide it in.