Mopar1973Man

Exactly what I'm say like @dripley saved big time buying from part supplier and ended up with the same OEM part without paying for the mopar logo.

Both can be had at DAP. @dieselautopower Maybe he get you a quote for a package deal... You never know...

This why I ask who made the part this way you can still save a ton of money and buy that manufacture elsewhere. For example if OEM is a Murray then buy a Murray from Rockauto or NAPA... Then your not buying the Mopar Logo or Cummins Logo.

Nope. Very quiet. Low traffic, No police presence most of the time. Salmon fishing was a bust. Steelhead fishing was a bust. Now everyone is trying rafting that seems weak. Just quiet out here.

Still I've got to still ask the question who made the OEM? I know both Mopar and Cumins do NOT manufacture fan clutches. Still would like to know who is manufacturing the fan clutch.

Electronic delete I love because you just saving all the part for the emission test. "Lookie, see all my parts are there." Truck passes. Electronically it does nothing. Coffee wise I do a double shot of half and half and a teaspoon of sugar. Pour that coffee down my throat. EGR can just lay there and look pretty. I wouldn't want all that carbon pumped back into my engine.

You can select other years... Here is what I'm running... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2D9HF2/

Half the unfo. I need the maximum amps it put out. Mine was also a Amazon find but I picked one without the temperature issues. If you go back and look at their comments and might be people complained about popping early and heat issues.

I've already seen 106°F down in Ontario a few days back. Even today was right around 92°F. I'm running the 150A circuit breaker and never tripped once yet. I suggest pulling the alternator having it bench tested to find out what its putting out and if there is any diode issues. Normally running truck doesn't draw very much at all. If there was a issue the grid heaters would be the biggest load at 195A but still in all a 136A alternator shouldn't be enough to trip a 150A circuit breaker.

Sorry I don't... I'm still on my factory battery cables yet. Not even needed to clean them yet.

Cleaned mine up a bunch once I figured out the oil temp trick. Good news, I broke the 21 MPG barrier.

Nope but seen plenty of projects... Typically that is a petroleum based under coating. I'm battling to prevent that from even starting the best I can.

Here is the Dodge FSM error codes and information.

My two tries at 7 x 0.0085 (+75 HP) injectors resulted in surging idle or lopey idle. It was so bad it would stall on city streets and at light trying to launch again. When I had them made the same thing with a 7 x 0.0085 VCO the problem stopped. Those were popped at 305 bar. Now with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar has a bit of lopely idle but as soon as you come to full stop the lope stops. Sound kind of cool but no driveability issues.

Ok... Here you go...

Part number is meaningless. Who made the part? Yes, they can be the same part that I've seen already. Yup this is true. Dealers (Mopar and Cummins) change manufactures constantly. You might get the same part that NAPA, AutoZone, etc. sells. I've seen this too. Not stamped the same part numbers but the manufacture is the same.

Yeah it does. These truck don't draw much power. When the circuit pops open the truck is running solely on the batteries in a discharging state. This is very slow. Without anything turned on you can run these truck for over 150 miles no problem without a charging alternators. Mine when the voltage get to 12.00 then clicks 11.99 the dash gause just falls to 8V and chimes and turns on the CHECK GAGE light. Just keep going they will continue to run all the way to 8.00 volts the the ECM and VP44 have problems staying running.

Actually yo can get that PCM repaired. @Auto Computer Specialist can do it for a fair price. Without the PCM you will not have any speedometer. I'm pretty sure ABS and PCM work together to get speed signal to the dash. Then your transmission will need the PCM to get 4th gear lock up. I do not suggest external regulators. They were discontinued for a reason which is the engine bay heat has to be just right to prevent over charging or under charging. If the regulator is too cold the charge voltage is too high. Then if the regulator is too warm then charge voltage is too low. Really common problem batteries don't last very long typically.

That being said it time to call @Quadzilla Power and have them test and diagnose your Quadzilla is it a wiring issue or a module issue.

Heck yeah that looks awesome!

By chance what tire size? You can get close using this tool. https://tiresize.com/calculator/ Revolutions per mile of a mounted tire under load will generally be about 3% more than the calculated number. Individual tire specs may vary from the calculations. However, you can choose from the populated list of tires to view the manufacturer specs for each tire. Specs are based on an inflated tire mounted on the 'Measured Rim' size and NOT installed under the weight of a vehicle. (If you measure the tire on your vehicle from the ground up, it will be shorter than the manufacturer diameter spec.) Tire widths will vary slightly depending on the rim width. Generally the tire width will change 2/10" for every 1/2" in rim width when mounted within the rim range. Tire diameter is not significantly affected by rim width.

I've read several complaints about false trip of the breaker because of trapped heat or too much heat directed at the circuit breaker and tripping falsely. Still for safety bench that alternator. Then insulate the circuit breaker with a ball of rags as a test. Bit of duct tape. If that resolves the issue then the breaker needs to be hidden where there is less heat.

The only problem is you have to stop, shut down, plug in the programmer, key on, flash your change, then key off. Then unplug and fire up for a test run again. Same thing for CCD Network tool.

Where did you mount the circuit breaker? If the circuit breaker is near heat it will cause a false tripping of the breaker. Mine is hidden in the cab side of the battery try on passenger side. Keep the heat off the circuit breaker. I would pull the alternator quick run it to NAP or part store and have it bench tested. This will verify the alternator has no shorts or issues. I'm betting the circuit breaker is getting too hot and popping open.