Mopar1973Man

I wouldn't tighten that much. Just lightly snug at best. New sealing washer should seal just with a snug torque.

Yeah remember that is blinding on coming vehicles too. With HID that trick no longer works but why would need it when 35w HIDs are so much brighter that 100w of halogen.

Being a vendor and being able to buy at wholesale cost. That's the whole trick...

I can't do this... Then I would lose the house. I'm the owner of 3 acres of property and two houses. Not cool to leave MoparMom without a home. Easy enough just retard the timing back 2° and the power is reduced on the performance tune. My economy tune is starts out way low at 70% fuel and retarded timing as well no design for pulling power but economy.

Rebuilding a NV5600 is nearly 3 times the price of my NV4500. Don't forget my cancer treatment has got me bogged down with about $20,000 of debt now and I can't just hop in a modification mode and spend huge amount of money. The only bonus I got was the price between a single disc and a dual disc clutch was a difference of 20 bucks. Now that is a upgrade I'll pony up for... Hence why I opened a shop and working 7 days a week now. Just to keep bills paid heck I even worked on Sunday. I've got just barely enough to do what I'm doing now. I'm going to be broke again. Then if I continue running the 1996 Dodge that is costing me $0.21 cents a mile ($210 a week in fuel) vs the Cummins which is as low as $0.15 cents a mile ($150 a week in fuel). Now figure 1,000 miles a week. The half ton will bleed me financially right now. Now if I didn't have to pay off $20,000 worth of cancer treatment and driving MoparMom back and forth for dialysis treatments I would upgrade and move on to a G56 modification if possible. But when 90% of my income is spent before I get it... I'm stuck.

Still as I post this only 52°F this morning and rained over 0.77 inches already. Global warming is over and now for global cooling mode.

Same here mine is rain soaking right now. Nothing in the shed but just barely a 0.5 cord.

Just goes to show NAPA thermostat is much more stable than a Brand name like Gates. Being the Gates 200°F thermostat is being crazy my NAPA 192°F is hovers at about 197°F.

Nothing new. It's just a mere 51°F here this morning. I've already seen a few mornings as low as 35°F already. Attic is insulated and the heat pump is running this morning. I've gotta start looking at getting firewood split and stack soon.

That would be cool to be put together as a write up in the RV section.

Stock is the 160A alternator according to NAPA.

Explain more... How about products links? I'm curious of this...

That's why I'm waiting for Abe at Weller truck to tell me what least he found.

Need the truck as quickly as possible. Remember Mom requires dialysis every other day. The Cummins is way more efficient that the half ton. Not to mention I need the truck for towing trailers and moving stuff that is just too heavy for the half ton. I use about 600 in fuel per month. As for the clutch between the two I just needed to add $20 for the upgrade. Why not? Personally I think the trans will hold up fine. It was the pilot bearing that created the issue. Since the input shaft goes to the counter shaft it built up some free play and the teeth where just on the tips and the torque did its just and broke them off. This was a reason I went down a tire size to to reduce torque stress. But I never knew the pilot bearing fell out. Lot of unseen problems that contributed to the failure. We might just have to revisit the fact of the main shaft I broke with Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. Too much power? Just for Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors to break the main shaft. Heck I might as well go back to stock and by a Ford then huh?

Ok. Little Update. Upgraded clutch ordered. I did a Valair Organic Dual Disc and it's on it's way. Transmission is still being rebuilt..

LED Lighting Parts List LED marker light LED Taillight Heavy duty LED flasher As for installing it just simple change of parts. The flasher is found in your driver side of the dash. If the flasher been there a while then it might be difficult to remove. Just take your time and work the flasher it will come out. Pull the stock flasher out and plug in the new flasher. The replacement flasher can is slightly larger for the 12V dash. It will barely fit. Make sure to get the electronic flasher can. As for the taillights you need a T25 screwdriver. There are 2 screws holding each taillight in place. The outside edge is a set of pins into the body. Need to be firm but careful and pull the light straight out. Top bulbs are your tail lights simply twist the socket and it should come out. Simply change the bulbs out. Leave the bulb out of the taillight for testing. Front marker lights for stock marker there is a Phillips screw holding the light in place on the bottom. Then just pull forward. Twist the socket and remove. Now change out the bulb. Again leave the bulb out for testing. Aftermarket headlight you might have a unit like my own which the marker light is part of the headlight. This you'll need to remove the 3 10mm bolts and pull the headlight forward to gain access to the marker lights. After that, it is just like the stock marker light. Twist the socket to remove and change the bulb out. On stock headlights its a Phillips screw on the bottom then the marker light can be removed. Now testing you want to simply turn on the parking lamps and see if the front marker lights are both white and the rear taillights are dim red. Now you can hit the hazards and check and see if the front marker lights turn amber and the rear taillight flash bright red. If any of the bulbs are backward pull them out and turn then 180 and resocket the bulb. This should fix this problem. As for the bulbs listed above, I'm using a switchback bulb in the front marker lights. This bulb will be white light on parking lamps and when a turn signal or hazards turn on the bulb automatically switches from white to amber. A member brought up laws might be in effect for white marker lamps in front. Might want to check with local laws on this. This article is created from the 24V article. Same LED bulbs were used again but the flasher can is different. View full Cummins article

Just found out NAPA has a selection of different re-manufactured alternators. There is a 160 Amp, 180 Amp and one more. The 160 Amp is just about 200 for price. There is options for you guys to have bigger alternators but I'm not sure what the fusible link rating is and if you have to update it for the 4th gens.

Just generic hardware store roof coating that is white. Back in the day it was TruValue Hardware. This is one I do remember..

Only has that single fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. Grounds are at the fenders. So now check the socket for +12V on each leg. It could be a rare instance of the filament broke off and flopped over another leg inside giving a weak glow. I would give a new bulb a shot if the voltage is present on the hi and lo legs of the socket.

Samething my Gates 200*F thermostat did. But the drop would swing back to 180*F before it closed.

Injector hold downs are suppose to be torqued to 89 inch/pounds.

All I can say is I will not follow the herd a second time for Dicor coatings. Extremely expensive and only lasted 3 years total joke. All that coating is now peeling up this summer and blowing off in the wind just sitting in the yard. Bought 3 gallons of the coating plus a gallon of the primer. Follow the directions closely. Even power washed the roof as directed in the instructions. Still peeling off. Don't waste your time. 3 years and about $300 dollars worth of materials. I had way better results with the cheap hardware store coating on my old Dodge Jamboree and it lasted over 10 years before any problems happened. That generic coating worked awesome hardware store white roof coating much thicker material and sticks without primer. Put it on the same way wash the roof off good. Skip the primer and then roll on the new roof coating this stuff stuck really good and never peeled off!

All you need is a live data tool like a OBDLink LX or ScanGauge II and monitor the TPS signal if the numbers a steady and not jumping around then they APPS is good. If the TPS drops to ZERO or suddenly jump up in value while held steady then the APPS has failed. When the ECM detect a value out of range the ECM automatically disconnects from the aPPS sensor and does the dead pedal and also at the same time throws the code. P0121, P0122, p0123 are the common codes.

Before tearing out the APPS or even thinking its a APPS issue. Take a live data tool like OBDLink or ScanGauge II and watch the TPS value. Does it float or change when held at a point of throttle? If it wondering or jumping value then I say change the APPS sensor. As for the warm engine idle miss that could be a injector that is popping low or bad spray pattern. Still possible as part of this issue. As for the hold at 1,500 and surge could be a AC noise issue. Either test the alternator on a bench or you could use a DVM and check the AC voltage from the alternator with everything off and the engine idling it should not be above 50mV AC. This only works if you have a DVM with a 2V AC or less setting. AC noise can produce a surge in the ECM signals. I've gotta ask did you do a W-T ground wire mod? This would resolve the A/C noise problem. As for testing the noise...