Mopar1973Man

Ok. So I went out to VirtualBox and AlmaLinux and downloaded and installed VirtualBox then within VirtualBox installed AlmaLinux so I could test drive the Linux. Again I'm still running Ubuntu Linux as a base. After a quick install and playing with AlmaLinux, it is from the ReHat family. This is good and should not pose any issues in running the website software. Screencast above is terminal and I called out LiSt -Long Human readable. That is what the ls -lh means. If you look my Ubuntu 22.04 menu is on the far left side. AlmaLinux 9.2 running in the window. Operating System - Checked and good to go. There is another reason I did this test run. Being I've still got @MoparMom computer here I'm going to make use of this machine and AlmaLinux and set up a home network and server using her machine with AlmaLinux. This way all my security camera footage will be saved on its own drive and then this machine takes the network load of the house releasing my machine for work and not wasting my CPU power on the network tasks.

I've been fighting a blend door issue where if you turned the temperature up to warm up the cab and later want to turn it to a cooler setting the door wouldn't move. You had to turn it up hotter and then quickly down lower and it would start to cool down. Now Being I've never done a heater treater yet I was thinking the shaft broke and hanging it up. I grabbed Mark and asked him for an offset Phillips driver. With little patience, I managed to remove the two Phillips screws and removed the stepper motor for the blend door. I was shocked my shaft coupler was still going strong. Then I popped open the steeper motor lubed the gears with some fresh grease and then pulled the brass contacts out a bit for the motor to rest against for power. Closed it up and just plugged in the stepper motor without installing it. Turn the key on and the HVAC controls to like Vent. Now rotate the temperature control to hot and cold to check movement. I found that the plug was not quite getting it and gave it a good squeeze and Presto! the problem is now fixed. I did go ahead and take a razor knife and cut the foam pad back to give my fat fingers a spot to get the back Phillips screw back in. After installing I did the same thing again and made sure the door swung both directions without hanging up. Sometimes you just gotta give that sticky wheel a bit of clean up and grease.

Might look quiet on this end. But... I've been doing my research for the new server that will be running the Mopar1973Man.Com website. First off the current operating system I'm running is CentOS and will be moving over to AlmaLinux. Now I'm currently loading up a virtualbox of AlmaLinux to get a feel for what I'm getting into. Just the little bit of reading I've done so far AlmaLinux is a better operating system than CentOS. Performance is unknown but the reviews I'm seeing most are moving in that direction. The next problem is the web server interface I'm used to using cPanel and WHM. I've been using this for years now throw that all out and now move over to Interworx. Now as for information, I did find a full user manual for Interworx but I've got my reservations on it as of yet. Most say it's a better environment but again it's all a learning curve at this point. What is so tough about all this? I'm right now have excellent server response performance which keeps us at the top with Google searches. My problem is when I make the swap how much of my tuning work goes out the window? How much slower will the site become? How hard is it to tune the software and bring it back to the same level or better? Unknown at this point. I've already contacted the hosting company and had a rather long discussion about the move and so far I can say it shouldn't take too long but could run into snags or issues. The tech advised me it could be up to 5 days worst case to make the swap. The hosting company is willing to move everything for me and convert from cPanel / CentOS to the new Interworx / AlmaLinux. Even after clean up of unneeded files I'm at 56 GB of data on our current server. Yup, there is that much stored on this server. I'm also going to get a full backup copy of the site here shortly and burn it to dual-layer DVDs which are 8.6 GB a piece. At least if there are any EMPs then I don't have to worry about losing my data. I've even got a remote backup server that is in a totally different location from the server states away. Yeah I've been busy!

Food for thought... Beast my 2002 Dodge is roughly 500 HP with +150HP injectors (7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar) and still running a HX35W turbo (54/60/12). My last haul I did was pulling my 31-foot RV back from Parma ID and I would just set the cruise and go for it. Even climbing 7% grades on Highway 95 I was hard-pressed to even get over 1,100*F. I'm also running 3.55 gears but after changing from 265/75 R16 (31.6 inch tire) to 245/75 R16 (30.5 inch tire) decreased EGT's and improved torque. The biggest thing that will improve EGT's is timing, I'm currently running 24.5 degrees of timing at 2k RPMs which now burns most of the fuel in the cylinder making more power to the wheels and little expanding gases to the turbo hence why my boost is near zero empty. Now towing once my engine load rises above 20% then my timing retards to about 15 to 17 degrees and now I making boost and more power because the timing is retarded so more expanding gases are sent to the turbo. The other thing is my engine oil temperature is 30*F cooler than coolant temperatures so if my coolant is 195*F my oil temp floats 165*F so little heat energy is being wasted on my oil from excessive flame exposure to the piston top and cylinder walls. (Summer of 2023 Parma ID) Now Thor (2006 Dodge 3500) in the picture above was one of the worst towing vehicles I own. EGT's are through the roof with a HE351 turbo which is (60/60/9) then the factory tune is heavily retarded and made for a poor towing of my RV to get to Parma ID. Coolant temperatures rise sharply climbing, EGT's are high even on flat ground towing at 55 to 65 MPH. Beast on the other hand just set the cruise and go towing the same 8,000 pound RV. Thor has +50 HP DAP injectors, no tuner, 3.73 gear ratio on 265/70 R17 tires. The final ratio of 3.73 as well. 6-speed transmission which does not help at all being the top two gears is the very same as a 5-speed. The best I can tow over a 7% grade with my RV is roughly 30 to 35 MPH with the EGT's banging at 1,200 to 1,400*F. Would a tuner help this absolutely. This is a 325 HP Common Rail Cummins being out done by a 2nd Gen at this point that is 500 HP. I feel that people are needlessly adding bigger turbos and then finding out that the spool point is higher in the RPM span and not getting the launch abilities. I've seen several people with improper setups and end up struggling to gain back the efficiency of the engine because of excessively large turbos, oversized tires that degrade the final ratio, then EGT's are excessively high. Even my other turbo the HX35/40 hybrid spooled later being it was only a (60/60/12). Boost was even lower at cruise state which with my tune typically sat like 0 to 2 PSI at 65 MPH. (Fall of 2023 Florence ID at 6,500 feet) Another example I've been doing is firewood runs up to 6,500 feet elevation on the west side of Florence ID. Climbing 9% to 10% grades. Even in high altitude still zero issues with EGT's because of the final ratio being 3.69 from the 245/75 R16 tires. Even loaded with 2 cords of lodge pole trees cut into 12-foot poles. No issues for back-country travels. Just for info my tallest local peak (Heavens Gate) is right near 9,000 feet you can drive to from Riggins ID. Economy wise I just made a trip to Lewiston for food. I filled up in Lewiston ID which is roughly 125 miles from me and barely burned a 1/8 tank to get back home 2.5 hours away. Still keeping good MPGs. Quadzilla Adrenline Tuner (Custom tune) HX35W stock turbo (54/60/12) +150 HP DAP VCO Injectors (7 x 0.010) custom popped to 320 bar 4 inch exhaust BHAF (no cold air intake) 245/75 R16 tires NV4500 transmission with Valair Dual Disc Clutch AirDog 165 55 MPH - boost 0 PSI and EGT's 450 to 500*F 65 MPH - boost is 2 to 3 PSI EGT's 550 to 600*F

Personally don't drive till the injectors are replaced. Injectors should be replaced every 100k - 150k miles. You are playing with fire. Head will develop what's called head curl typically around 300k to 350k miles this could be stopped if you ditched the stock head bolts and installed ARP suds. Remember Cummins head gaskets are not made by Cummins but by BLK out of China. Replace the gasket but do it right and remove the VP44 so as to get the cover out and in without making a mess of the gasket and being able to clean the block face well. No sealants! No Silicone! The oil Pan gasket is super easy and takes me about 2 hours to do. It is required to lift the engine and also jack up the truck so the front axle hangs. The oil pan can slip right out without any problems. Why? I'm still running my HX35W with +150 HP injectors and no issues with EGT's or MPG's at all. Tuning will allow you to go much farther with the stock turbo keeping spool up times short. Vacuum pump rebuild kits are super cheap and can be purchased through Cummins. Takes about an hour to replace the seals in the vacuum pump. I've got articles for most of this work just check out the article database.

It's the weight of the pitman arm and linkage. Now take a rubber hammer or dead blow and punch it back up so to give that slack you need. The only other way to do it is remove the entire box from the truck and use a small hammer to tap the output shaft back inward. Then you can get your slack. I can typically do this with it all in the truck. 1. Loosen jamb nut 2. Run the adjusting stud all the way in till it stops. 3. Then start counting turns back out you need at least 2 turns back out. 3a. If it can't be reached then tap the output shaft back up because the adjusting stud does not have the ability to lift that weight. 4. After adjustment start the truck and check for binding in the straight position and how much free play left to right. 4a. If the center is binding you need to add more slack. 4b. If the free play is excessive you need to tighten up the adjustment bolt to take free play out of the gears.

Yes. It was a multifuel and we typically just used diesel fuel. Gasoline Diesel JET-A fuel Kerosene

I would just jump the two pins below the seat.

I've tried calling @dripley this morning just to check his phone is still active but the voicemail box is full.

Oh before I forget those engines can and will start up and run backwards. If it does you'll have 1 forward gear and 5 reverse gears and might have a burnt or melted air filter. Also the engine oil pressure will not rise so be aware.

All member need to surf the site being there is so much here on the site for info.

Salmon River Fire Department had 3 of these military trucks used for firefighting purposes and used 2 of them for water tenders about 1,000 gallons of water. Then the 3 truck was an actual fire engine with a full pump panel and all only held about 400 gallons of water. Man I missed the days of that wild gear box and the shift patterns. Most guys would get hung up with the strange shift pattern.

Yes @W-T did have his house burn down in the fires in California (Paradise CA.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camp_Fire_(2018)

I've only seen one truck in my time with an EGR valve on the 12V 6BT engine. I would check but typically the 6BT did not come with an EGR valve. If you do have to install a valve I would have to tell you a little secret on how to do it so it pass visually but the EGR doesn't flow any exhaust gases into the manifold. Sadly enough I will admit there is nothing gained by a EGR system on a diesel but enhanced wear and decreased MPG's. Just think if you introduce exhaust gases to a fire it going to reduce the bang of the fuel and not burn well.

Just a heads up I've got the part books here on the website so you can look up factory part numbers for your truck they are located here... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Ouch. That was painful. At least its repaired and running good!

Will admit that the 3rd Gen Pumps had issues with the shaft seals and bearing. Once fuel starts to seep out of the seal a little bit, the fuel will wash out the bearing eventually. Now the 4th Gen pumps have been upgraded with dual bearings and upgraded seals. I'm currently running a 4G AirDog 165 pump on my 150 GPH base with no issues.

I will admit it's in good shape. Needs a bit of maintenance and effort. Other than that the owner had some medical issues and now really can't afford to keep the truck.

Try again. Lol. You will never know. Might be different color hair. I've got several now I keep people guessing now.

I would relay phone number let the owner and you to discuss.

I've got a local gent that wants to sell his truck and asked me to give a shot at finding an owner for him... 1991 Dodge 250 5.9L Cummins 1st Gen 5 Speed GetRag transmission 4WD Approximately 300k miles.

Abandoned mining town. Look up Florence ID and you'll see where I'm at. I'm on the west side of Florence ID. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence,_Idaho

No clamps needed.

It does because of volume of the bigger pumps like AirDog or FASS. Remember you only burn rough between 0 and 10 GPH. The rest of the volume of fuel is return as long as there is 14 PSI or more behind the overflow valve. I'm running 14 to 20 PSI. AirDog 150 base with a AirDog 165 pump (4G). Big part of the return happens at the AirDog but since fuel is making multiple passes the fuel gets polished in the 3micron filter on my AirDog. Typical VP44 will last about 250k to 350k miles.

Bad product. Marvel Mystery Oil Rated at 678 HFRR score which is not an improvement at all. I'm on the side of I don't trust Blue Chip being he does sell used PSG units. A certified rebuilder can't sell a used PSG.