Mopar1973Man

Following... I'm curious.

What I got is a Harbor Freight ball joint press. It'll work but it's not the strongest press in the world easy to break the tool. So better pressing forced you need to hit the knuckle with a BFH to hopefully shock the joint to moving. Then retighten the press again. Back and forth till it comes out.

Track bar you can handle on your own but the ball joints a bit more trouble. Ifr I'm to do my ball joints again I would do it differently. After the knuckle is removed. I would fire up a torch cut the tops off of the ball joints. Knock the stems out. The use a hacksaw lightly slice into the bodies and then smack it with a hammer to remove. A heck of a lot easier than ball joint press fighting to press them out.

Why not just delete the darn thing? Much easier to deal with that way. Unless you happen to have emission testing or vehicle inspections.

Something is most likely too tight now. I would re-check what you have done then maybe back off just a bit.

That's at least what I did. I would seat the pitman gear fully in the rack by tighten the adjustment as far as it would go easy. Then back the adjustment off set number of turns. Kind of like doing band adjustment on the 47RE transmission you torque the adjustment screw to 72 inch pounds then back off a set number of turns. This will provide the needed slack for the gear to move properly. Like I found out by setting it tight its very stiff and doesn't self center at all. What happen is the pitman arm gear binds up in the straight travel. As you can see in this picture that is exactly how the gear mesh. The "sector adjustment" as label in this picture is how much its pushing the gear into the "power piston" or the rack. As for the bearing pre-load that is how much force is applied from the input cap pushing against the bearing on the worm gear.

Like my last adjustment, I bottomed it out then backed off 1 full turn. To get bottom you might have to jack front axle up and and rock the steering a bit. The adjust again. Once bottom is found then you got to set in some slack. One member said 1.5 turn back mine is goodf at 1 full turn back. So start with 1 full turn back and might have to go 2 full turns back at the most. I did try the fully bottom out adjustment its stiff and won't center very well.

Most play is in the over-center adjustment. The bearing pre-load typically isn't the source of the loose steering. Don't get me work it can but very rare.

No. Just remove the intake cover plate and use a shop vacuum and a tool of some sort to remove the build up. Cummins isn't the only one with this problem even the VW diesel are really bad about plugging up. Most remove the intake manifold and use a propane weed burner to burn the crud out. As for the idling. Some place like California where traffic backs up for miles on the freeways or city street it can't be avoided. Even in Boise, ID there are time traffic is backed up to crawl or stand still. Then there are people that own these vehicles and don't drive more than 2-5 miles tops on city streets and never get to operational temperature. Basically, the whole EGR idea has been a horrid idea even as far back as the 1970's. I had it on my 1973 Dodge Charger and fought with the EGR every smog test. Always passed better without it but had to be operational to pass the test so it would fail if operational. I'm lucky my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 is a V8 engine WITHOUT an EGR by design. The whole idea is to dump exhaust gases back in the intake air mixture to weaken the ability of the fuel to burn hot because of the CO2 mixed in the air. So this reduces NOx emissions. The dumb part is if the vehicle manufacturer would quit putting this junk on engine and allow the design for efficient engines then less fuel burned means there is less emissions. Dumping CO2 into the intake just means the engine can't produce good power because of lack of oxygen. Then more fuel dumped in to make the same amount of power as an engine without EGR.

Wonderful 6.7L EPA garbage. As you can see the EGR valve has loaded up the intake manifold with soot choking the engine for air or boost pressure. Enuf said...

108*F outside. 3rd Gear at 35 MPH and 2,200 RPMs 4th gear at 55 MPH at 2,100 RPMs

A bit of information to add... Towing a 8k pound RV in 4th gear (Direct 1:1) up 7 mile 7% grade in 4th is MUCH COOLER than towing the same RV up the same grade in 3rd which actually tripped off my 220*F warning light and rose to 225*F. Where the 4th gear (1:1 direct) transmission temperatures stay about 180-190*F. I'll have to say KATOOM is absolutely correct. Direct 1:1 ratio is the most coolest gear to run.

@Atcmcc Did the gauge start tot function? @Chris O. Could you provide me information for PCM header address and the PID for said fuel gauge information? Plz! I want to add it to the OBDLink App.

True... As for centrifuge filter not exactly cost friendly for most people. Bypass filters are cheaper though...

Same reason I won't touch a washable air filter. Too many things to go wrong during washing of the filter. Typically all washable filters do not filter down to the same level like a paper element. Too many people will accept the poor filtering quality because they can wash it over and over. Even through the engine is wore out faster. Look back at the track record of washable air filters. I've seen my fair share of engine damage here local from washable filters this is both gas and diesel both. I can also see some losing the seal and losing the oil on this after taken it apart several times to wash it. I can see violent oil leaks occurring from re-using o-rings or not latching the housing.

I won't touch it...

Here is a new link... http://www.scottsonline.com/Product_Info.php?PartType=3

Just look towards Swift trucking to see the less qualified drivers that managed to get a CDL.

Crap another one.

Weird one to check... WARNING! - Please be careful with the bolt holding this plug it extremely easy to strip out. The big plug in the PDC box has the CCD bus in that plug I wonder if the connection is poor or loose and creating issues.

I tend to agree with @TFaoro and @AH64ID about pyrometer temps. Even my truck with holding 1,200*F up 6-7% grade typically it will hover around 210-215*F once the fan locks up. Recently I do have an odd issue there. The first grade I take on for towing it seen that the fan clutch is getting late to kick in but once it does it fine for the rest of the trip. Just plain weird how it will nearly hit 220*F for the first climb then after that it only needs about 208-210*F and its locked up and the turbo prop is flying low. Just weird. I haven't condemned the fan clutch quite yet.

Till they seat. There is a flat on the bolts so there is no torque per say. You can only tighten to the flat shoulder bottoms out.

Is the odometer still clocking distance?

That was my thought to. Why would Auto PCM and ECM have manual software? Did you swap them?

Interesting you have anti-stall software.