Mopar1973Man

Like my own rotors. At 185k miles when I did my first brake job. I had them turned on a lathe and trued.I had them measured bofore and after and only took .040" of a inch on the worst one to get it true again. So here I'm at 267k miles and still rolling on my OEM rotor and my second brake job no issue.

No. Just bring the RPM's up and see what your pressure are like. See if the compressor is going to excessive cycle out. Remember you DRIVE your truck not IDLE in parking lots. So the A/C should be charged enough to prevent excessive cycling. Now under normal operation eventually it will cool the cab to the point you turning down the fan speed. Now I except the compressor to cycle because the evaporator temperature will fall even more. So the lo side pressures typically fall more. Then mild cycling of the compressor will occur because of excessive cold temperaure and prevent freezing of the evaporator. To see this happen roll up the windows let the cab cool on MAX A/C and now turn the fan speed to low and watch the lo side pressure it will fall to about 25 PSI and kick out the compressor. Look at the inner ring you'll see the discharge temperature is just below freezing. Optimally you want enough freon to keep the evaporator sweating. Hence why I normally head towards 35-40 PSI so when the vehicle is driven the lo side as close as possible to the freeze point without trip the lo side cutout.

2 Cycle oil basically follows the same kind of rules like engine oil. As standards and specification change they continue to hold that level never regressing back. So Ashless oils are standard as far as I know.

That's why I love my manifold set. I can read both the hi and lo side pressure making the best choices in pressure based on temperature. I typically place a thermometer in the vent and monitor better the manifold and the thermometer. Now @leathermaneod secret to said. The lower the lo side pressure colder it will become but... You need to have enough low side pressure to prevent cycling of the compressor. I can tell you that Dodge's lo side switch is about 25 PSI for cut out pressure. So typically I aim for about 30-35 PSI on the lo side. This will prevent excessive cycling while driving which you can see if you have a second person raise the RPM's to 1,500 RPM or so. The pressure will drop again on the lo side.

I want to see the new place... I'm curious of how you built it up.

I'm done even trying... No sense in even posting anymore so far I've lost 3 threads to oil related argument I'm done...

Actually you are just hell bent on selling me AMSOil... Sorry No.

Sorry I'll have to agree to disagree. So many way I can alter you "delta" values that I make it look good..

That's the thing AH64ID is quote Delta value which to me is meaningless. To may factors involved to this "Delta" make it even valuable. Like starting temperature of the fluid, length of climb, then at what speed, what gear, how much hp & tq applied to the transmission, etc. All have an impact on the out come of the "Delta". So yeah I could hook up a heavy load climb a short 7% grade and turn a better delta too. I can stop before a grade have picnic and the climb it after it cooled still have wonderful delta. Too many thing to impact the outcome more than just weight... Me78569 like you said not even a comparsion unless everything is equal and side by side. Then we can talk delta.

Time... So let look at it 7 miles of grade at 35 MPH takes 12 minutes (35 MPH in 3rd gear) to climb vs 7.6 minutes (55 MPH in 4th gear). Nearly doubling the time climbing then also with gear reduction adding heat for double amount of time. Then looking at 55 MPH its half the amount of time in 4th gear and 4th is a cooler gear. Again compare side by side it might be different. Again ditch the cooler on his and the exhaust blank I bet it closer together.

There are a few weird animals out there. About the Ford it's with rear evaporator.

After seeing the difference between the 46RE, 47RE and 48RE they are basically the same but with subtle differences. Mostly has to do with amount of clutches in the stack.

I'm very impressed with the transmission work he done on my 46RE on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. Pretty aggressive transmission now.

Well we are next year right?

@IBMobile Just a fair warning... I ran across a few weird vehicles with different standards of pressure or functions. Like I found a Honda that operates at as lo side of 15 but cycles automatically by computer control not pressure. I've seen some Ford vans as high as 55-60 PSI getting the full 4 pounds of freon in the system. I will admit for most vehicle A/C work I do follow the chart you provided but still highly suggest using a good manifold setup with both hi and lo pressure gauges is the safest way to go.

Hua?

Here... Look closely there is a break in the contact patches on the outer rings. The short pad is idle position and the long patch is throttling. The right set is the IVS set and then the left is the APPS. This why I love the Timbo's APPS over anything else there is no electronics and just a contact fingers that sweep the range. It's fully mechanical setup. As for P0222 that is both IVS switches are low or in other words shorted to ground at the same time. So the ECM could tell if it was throttling or idling because both switch where selected at the same time.

What would be a better comparsion would be to take two trucks and the only difference would be the fluid one with 50 SAE and the other Castrol Syntorq. No other mods. Then both truck towing the same amount of weight up the same hill together at the same time. Then you'd have some data. There is all kinds of variables not considered in AH64ID comment. Winds, tire differences, loads (weight), tire inflation, etc. All these thing can impact the outcome of the transmission temperature. I bet that if I go back to driving the way I normally do I never reach that 225*F mark again. Just did the 3rd gear climb to prove that reduced ratio gearing and lower road speeds does produce a lot of heat in the transmission and that was the only purpose of the post.

I'm sure someone could make new boards if they had a original board to produce from.

If you can scrap off the original mylar circuit board some how.

You can do solder repairs and part replaces yet it just a surface mounted / solder thing. It the case is made with a crease in it so it folds up during assembly. But now unfold it to access the board and try to refold it again is crazy as you watch the aluminum case start to crack. Then attempting to get water tight seal again is also tough I bet.

Can't use his data to compare. KATOOM is running insulated exhaust pipe. I'm also pretty sure using fast coolers as well. So it not a true apple to apple comparison. I'm truly stock no coolers and no pipe insulation.

Spending most of my days running to Riggins, ID doing air conditioning repairs and recharging.

Well I got to thank the gent for mentioning that he had a damaged ECM and have him mail it to me for studying. I'm going to invest a bit of effort into playing with it and seeing what I can do with it. Not known what the failure was but I'll play anyways.

AC noise test?