Mopar1973Man

I don't know why but there is an absolute left and right error of speed sensors. I've had it check few different times. I've replaced the front sensors 3 different times with the same results. I've had my front bearings checked there are still tight and the tire shop also agrees there is nothing wrong with the unit bearings. So that leaves me back to the tone rings and the sensors in the front. Why I don't know but 2 new unit bearings are outside my budget right now.

How the ABS sensors work is that the detect metal then gap then metal again. This creates a sinewave on the speed sensor lead back to the ABS module. The ABS module is capable of counting the cycles per second and turn it into speed numbers. So if the tone wheel has material in-between the teeth with metal (graphite loaded grease) then that gap is seen as filled with metal which now changes the frequency return to the ABS computer so now there is a offset from left to right and if so then the ABS will only allow so much then trigger the lights and disable the ABS. Like mine its enough offset that it pulls to the right when it does work but shortly trips the lights and disables the ABS function. Remember this speed function is compared to all 3 sensors and then used during braking to adjust brake pressures so a speed sensor that is showing slower like my left side does then the right applies more brake power and lighten the left so now you get pull to the right. Another way to see this action of the speed sensors you can take a sensor hook up a AC volt meter to the lead and now lightly tap on a metal surface. As it touches metal and breaks away it creates AC waveform that the meter can see. So the faster you do this the more cycles per second are produced.

Here is the full article on it...

Chrysler Crash Detection This isn't like vehicle crash but data crash. It's built on the same design as ethernet cable networks.

This is impressive...

Well here is how it works. The PCM looks to the fuel sender for resistance value for remaining fuel. Then the PCM converts this information into digital message on the CCD bus. Now it up to the Cluster or the Central Timer to receive these messages and convert the data into the information required. So the fuel gauge is stepper motor and told where to place the needle in respect to the digital information. Then the Central Timer tells the overhead computer how much fuel is left and calculates DTE (Distance To Empty) by using existing MPG data. So The weird part is the CCD data is correct because other than that the overhead would be providing false data to you. So that leaves me pointing my finger at the cluster. At least what I can think my way through.

Hmmm... If the overhead is working that means the PCM is working and sending out data of the fuel level. But the cluster check works fine. But only displays for a short time nad the fall to empty again. I'm stumped if there is a module that is partly failed. This really got my head scratching going. Have you checked the interior cab ground in the driver side kick panel? I'll keep thinking on it.

Check the resistance at the PCM plugs to verify the signal is making it to the PCM. Also you might check the plug there at the driver side fender it might be corroded from mud and water making weak connection.

Opps I missed that... So did you center the sender in the tank? So the float isn't hung up on the walls? Loosen the ring and turn the sender slowly left to right listening for the arm to strike the tank. Split it half and tighten again.

The only thing I can think off would be do a AC noise test on the alternator verify there is no excessive AC noise beating up the PCM. Beyond that I would say replace the sender in the tank which is about $80 bucks or so. It could be you have a weak spot in the rheostat still. Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the range around 3/4 to 7/8 of a tank the gauge needle drops to Empty and trips the light. As you consume fuel and get below 3/4 of a tank it pops right back up. Like on my 2002 when the sender failed it was running out of fuel at 1/2 tank to 3/8 of a tank. So fuel sender weirdness does occur with age so I wouls start there first.

All I see is a automatic transmission sitting against the wall. Trucks gone so I assume it completed and converted.

Not much lubricant. PS is only +61 point gain vs 2 cycle +162 point gain. I think you mean P0230 code right? If so then its an electrical issue from the ECM to the fuel pump relay trigger. So the pump has internal issues I'm going to bet that diesel fuel leaked into the motor wiping out the brushes. Raptor pumps are known for this problem. I personally don't like any DDRP styled pump. This implies that you are going to be using stock location and stock plumbing. Now if you the relocation kit with it then you are OK... Of course this just added more to the price tag.

So far I'm not exactly impressed with the so called stone ejector design. Supposedly the tread is suppose to stepped to reject stones from sticking in the tread. Sad to say it holds on to stones quite well.

The engine is already out and being rebuilt at this time. Just waiting for the phone call to go get it down in Caldwell, ID.

LOL... My version I found...

Best I can say is measure your old wheel. At least I found a place that sells compressor wheels.

Will this work? http://baeturbosystems.com/compressorwheelformitsubishitd04hl4350mminducer-5600mmexducer-3-3-1-1.aspx

So you might be stuck buying a reman'ed box to resolve the issue.

I climb 6-7% grade without issues typically again rarely do I need 4WD but if the conditions are slick enough I'll use it. Most highway out here are OK for conditions. Typically snow covered. Still run just 2WD with H/T tire like last winter (unstudded). This winter I'll be running on A/T tires still unstudded. Still run in 2WD for most of it. Now yes towing a loaded trailer yes I would be in 4WD. I'm the type to drive as far as I can safely with 2WD so 4WD is my fall back if I do get stuck or squirrelly. I do have road chains but never really needed them unless I'm travelling up in the forest beyond plowed roads. My trailer season basically ends at snow fly. Can't use the RV nor am I hauling firewood out in the winter snow. I've been know to still run the trailer for hauling stuff for other in the winter.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tritium That doesn't make me feel good wearing a radioactive watch.

Personally, I like soldering on the terminals being the solder will creep inside the vinyl jacket and also seal the copper from future corrosion issues. The soldering has welded the copper to the terminal together and contact is solid. Crimping is good to only if you can get the crimping tool.

So that idea goes out the window. I want to do it with a friend about 3 years ago being we tend to run together quite a bit in the fire dept and search and rescue. All that changed when he moving to Washington.

I went ahead yesterday just to understand the feel I cranked mine to dead bottom tight. You are right is very stiff feeling, require constant steering, won't track very well at all, kind of like sticks in one spot. Return home, then adjusted from bottom I loosen 1 full turn and I was back to good free steering and still responsive.

As for the block flush, it list here on M73M.com in an old post. The product is a clear liquid sold in a round 1-gallon jug and more or less a plain white label if I remember right. It's a pretty stout chemical being it will remove rust and scale build-up from the entire cooling system. It's actually designed for engines. If I'm not mistaken Cummins sells it. (IIRC...)

??? I haven't wore a watch in over 25 years. I've got nothing in my life that I got to schedule for.