Mopar1973Man

The whole removing the battery terminal does nothing the ECM or PCM modules are flashed with software and cannot be altered by simply unhooking the battery. If you want to reboot the computer a simple key off for 10 seconds or so and back on with reboot all computers. You've got a short in the compressor trigger circuit. Not to mention it might be under charged not normal for the system to ice up. Even on low fan it should only sweat never freeze. Low pressure switch might be faulty and low on charge. I'm starting to wonder if the ignition switch is failing to energize that circuit or the contacts are weak on that side.

Exactly how I drive anyways...

There was another one where member here used flat piece of metal and two exhaust clamps to hold it in place. Same idea just a bit simpler to produce and no welding required. I do like your idea. @leathermaneod You might be worried about keeping the heat off for the summer. I'm waiting for winter time to find a way to get heat to the transmission so it does warm up on super cold days when it's minus temperatures out.

As for testing vent temp buy a cheap digit kitchen thermometer and use it for testing the vent temperature. I've seen weird reports from IR temp guns and different color changes the temperature displayed.

Thanks @IBMobile... That good info...

You pressure numbers are fine just the hi side showing that the condenser is running a bit hot and not discharging heat very well. Fan clutch might be weak or the condenser is plugged up with bugs.

... or burning fires. Sometime, you have to defend your castle from nature and/or man.

Absolutely... I totally understand that. Kind of like where I'm at in Idaho I've never found another place like it yet. Like even dealing with the guest house flooding out twice now. I still won't give up I continue to hold tight to this place.

Actually here in the river bottom just got to drill down to below the river level. I've got a fairly shallow well at 50 foot.

If you ever bring down hives to my place I've got all natural setting. No weed spray here. Sad but true both neighbors spray weeds. I don't care about weeds so there is dandelions in my yard so what you can aways eat those or make wine. Plenty of flowering berry bushes like raspberry and blackberries. Then all the fruit trees in the spring of the year. I'm highly against the use of any chemical control for plants or weeds. The part I don't want to contaminate my ground water.

Still use it just stay in higher gear and start earlier. The only time you get into trouble is pulling down through the gears too fast. Like yesterday I showed a friend that I can pull down so hard on dry pavement that I can get it locked up and hopping. So it's all in the manner of how it use and how quickly your down shifting with the exhaust brake on.

Wheel cylinders, manual adjustment of the shoe slack, if you got the weight valve on the rear removing the rod and tie the arm in place.

That can be resolved. There is ways of handling drum brakes. I've got them on my 1996 and work good.

First pad change was at 185k miles. Here is what I removed at 185k miles. Fronts... Then the rears...

Here is where I need to see the high side pressure. I need to be able to look at lo and hi side and then I can base the amount more so.

I would stop there. Like the foot states if the pressures are below and discharge temperatures ar good then your fine.

So how high is that now? Those are just cinder blocks? How do you keep them from toppling over with settling or shifting?

Exhaust brake first, budget pads second. Typically it's very rare for me to even touch my brakes being I do major of stopping on the exhaust brake. Budget pads so I have the lowest content of metal in the pads to prevent eating the rotors. 267k miles and still using OEM rotors yet, turned once and never been replaced.

Give perspective to micron sizes so other will understand. 35 micron (or 0.00137795 inches). Just a bit bigger than white blood cell. Just think of it, we run 3 micron (or 0.00011811 inch) fuel filters which is smaller than a red blood cell. As for the washable filter. Still not too happy with the idea. Just way too much that could go wrong during washing and reassembly. We've had all those problems in the early years with Fram filter and other name filters letting go and plugging a oil jets, or doing engine damage. Now here we are talking about a filter and taking a risk with a washable filter that you don't ever get anything on the wrong side and its passed on to the bearings or oil jets. It would spell disaster for the engine.

That's cheap... Local shop here was doing rotor turning for $40 a rotor.

I know heat is not an option consider the block temperatures and it not releasing with all the heat it sees in the life time. It's going to be solvent base for sure.

Gotta go through the diagnostics and see if it point you in the right direction.

MAP sensor or O2 sensor would be my first thoughts. Typically there would be a code or light with either if too far gone.

You done nothing to fix the APPS P0123 code. Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Return Circuit Open APPS Signal Circuit Open From APPS To ECM APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Open PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted To Voltage With The Engine Running PCM (APPS) Short To Voltage With Ignition Key On APPS Open Between PCM And ECM Open APPS Circuit Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module

Because as you discharging the can into the system the can got cold. So what I typically do is fill a small bucket or pail up with hot water and place the cans in hot water to regenerate pressure. Basically you need to keep the freon above the boiling point.