Mopar1973Man

You've got the updated flash done. Turns the gauge into a dummy light. Not actual pressure. This why external gauge is best. I'm not a big fan of the stock pressure sensor either.

I think its post pressure if I'm not mistaken... Don't quote me.

I'm going to have to take an educated guess on this which I would say to prevent axle wrap issues as much.

Nope, not present... On the CCD network.

Still need to test with mechanical gauge because the sensor could be bad or the ECM could be misreporting the value.

I would test the the oil pressure with a test gauge to verify your oil pressure. Being the dash gauge is not exactly accurate by any means.

Now that you mention it I can look into the ABS issue on my truck too.

Computer power supply is not going to charge at different levels of voltage for different times. Like boost or desulphation mode is 14.3 volts for a period of time, the normal mode is 13.6 volts, then storage is 13.2 volts with a desulphation run every 24 hours. So a PC power supply will provide a perfect 12.0 volts and nothing more. http://www.progressivedyn.com/charge_wizard.html How the intelipower changes voltages for the needs of the batteries. Charging rates...

You might want to look at a 60 Amp Inteli-power 9200. Way better than just a PC power supply. Not to mention it has different modes of operation to condition the battery and prevent sulphation while in storage. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/cfp/electrical-12v/converters-progressive-dynamics/55-9009.htm

Now you know why I pack the dog with me most places. No one wants to mess with a smiling Doberman in the front seat. When the truck is at home the gate is locked every night and typically both trucks are locked up in the garages. Very rare will you find that I leave my truck parked outside in the yard.

ECM damage is already done... You are going to need to replace the ECM.

Alternator is the cause of the failure. The P0606 is the sign the ECM is damaged.

Oh My... A lot of people would go nuts for that.

Again we are back to suction side leak before the pump.

Test your alternator. I bet your alternator is excessive high in AC noise. Also if you have any wiring mods to the grounds or noise filter makes sure to remove the filter and return all wiring back to stock configuration.

I've seen several tow trucks pulling vehicles up out of the river without a second thought. The winch on them are very powerful and will drag a wrecked vehicle on the frame without a second thought. So as for a parked vehicle locked in park with a parking brake set not a problem. Just a few minutes in the dark and can be gone in no time.

The biggest thing is having good headlight cases/lens. Headlight bulbs are all the same for watts by legal standards. They might change little things here or there about the design but the wattage is typically the same. If you do find bigger wattage bulbs you take the risk of melting the headlight case being they are just plastic.

I've heard of the tow truck method as well.

Air in the fuel it sounds like if you getting white smoke.

This one wire disables the VP44 power relay ground lead, so it never comes on line and trips a P1689 code. No starty, No runny...

Just need to see the IAT and ECT with the key on and in the 4 position (OFF, MPG, 6 CYL, and 3 CYL)... OFF should show the ECT and IAT match on a cold start. MPG should show 143*F IAT temp. 6 CYL should show 26*F IAT and 123* ECT. 3 CYL should show 13*F IAT IIRC...

Need to see what temperature the ECT and IAT is reporting.

I'm discussing a closed forum for security talk that the public cannot see nor can Google. Also discussing the terms of using said area. We are looking into creating solution to this problem.

I've got a single wire idea. Which makes the system really easy, no fuses, no worry of shorts, and a toggle switch.