Mopar1973Man

Problem is it can't fling the snow at all. I can tip my blade forward and get a run at it and it will fling the snow off to the discharge side. Those blades have rubber ends that pile the snow up on the blade. Kind off nice to kick the snow out 3 to 4 feet to one side.

Rubber hose won't last in diesel fuel. This why the tube is either metal or plastic. I like metal over the plastic.

Oh man this is going to be a mess.. It better come with a manual... Wow!

Eric sells the same thing for cheap. I place a quarter coin on the bottom and cut the tube to rest right on top of that quarter. FASS suggest 2 quarter coins stocked. I still do only one. Always do it with a empty tank. The bottom will deflect with fuel weight. So empty it will be right to the bottom but filled it will be farther away. I'm going to bet your hose got rotten and floppy.

Most likely your straw was trimmed wrong. I've seen plenty of bad installed draw straws. I've even got a new straw in my shop right now. I'll even sell it...

Remember im an old school drawstraw user for nearly 11 years now and ticking. Still no serious issues. Still capable off reaching the empty mark.

I'm going to clean the plug and pack it with dielectric grease. Try again. My truck today is no longer maroon it's salt grey.

As for the NV4500 transmission and 50 SAE fluid been doing good. Even with cold start here in Boise at 17 degrees it's shifting well. I think it would improve shift quality if I could get at least 120 to 130 transmission temps. Rather hard short trip of less than 5 miles and blowing cold wind on the transmission.

Interesting idea. This city is broken they can't even plow the streets.

Merry Christmas to everyone. So what did everyone get for Christmas? I'm at least spending Christmas with MoparMom.

Again you need to break out the DVM do so testing. The generator charge lead should be on it own fuse. At least I think it should be...

I've just found bug with ISSPro gauges. With the highways being wet, slushy, and salted the gauge jump up to 160 to 180 in temperature. As the connector dried out the gauge went back to 100. Also stopped and hand check the temp and it was cool to the touch. So be aware of this issue.

Be careful with breakers it could melt wires as it continues to cycle on and off. There is a heavy you must isolate. Pull one fuse at a time and test the amp draw of each circuit.

All I can say is do your research for your state laws. Check with Oregon DOT ask them. As for he sump I'm still staying away from them. All the videos show dragging an empty tank. Try driving over a rock or a log with the tank installed I bet the mighty Cummins will shear it right off.

When running wiper delay you might find the timing of the ON pulse from the CTM might be long enough to keep it going while travelling through the park mode. Normal slow or fast mode works fine when you turn it off. It might just be lag of the blade or the timer holding power just a wee bit too long.

With the winter weather here I've quit looking at the transmission temp gauge. I never get it to move now. Stuck on 100*F even in long trips to Boise, ID. It's been minus weather in New Meadows most of the time. Won't even warm up idling after a long ride either.

I'm glad we can't change the idle. 800 RPM's is awesome for creeping in snow.

Diesel was fully checked out by a vet today and healthy 8 year old dog. Got his shots up to date and need to come back to have his teeth cleaned few teeth are getting rather infected.

Our truck report an value around 28.6 to 37.7 on MAP sensor.

That what's known as failing within specs. I've seen rare times of that happening.

Usually best to have thew entire donor truck present so you can raid any parts, wiring, or modules as required.

I normally slide the entire line nut out of the way so I can see the fuel spray from the driver seat. This way a single man doing the job can see if its pumping or not.

I just had a Dodge that didn't want to fire. So we pull the the intercooler tube from the intake horn. Then disconnected the grid heaters are the relays. Then had a second man crank the engine and very quick burst of starting fluid at the intake horn from a distance so its just a light cloud being inhaled. Started right up. Again. I really do mean very small burst of spray. Doesn't take very much to get it to light off. Do not spray into the horn then crank. Do not spray large amounts either. I've seen even my truck get this way and refuse to prime up a few times and this is all I do to get it light off.

No problems really. It got a few weird idiosyncrasy yet but other than that shifting good. The syncros are tight in the 1st and 2nd slot so I've ben hitting 3rd then popping back to 1st or 2nd as needed. This is only while stopped. I've also had Abe at Weller Truck look it over and he's not worried about it. Just tight yet. Like I said the fluid is still clean and clear no carbon color yet. As the miles stack up it doing better and better like 5th use to be the same way but very rare to hang up any more. Not really.. Compare 75w-85 to 50 SAE. http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/viscosity.htm#classificaties

This is the same reason I will not do a p7100 pump conversion being fly by wire cruise would be ruined.