Mopar1973Man

No. ECM doesn't generate heat unless you have a bad alternator with excessive AC noise issue other than that it will live a very happy life hanging off the block with 190*F coolant jacket behind it. I have to ask does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly with the key or does it delay? This is a since of Alternator AC noise damage whewre its damaged the memory on the ECM. The very first instruction on the ECm is to check the IAT temp and turn on the WAIT TO START light for either a bulb check (if warm) or actually run the grid heaters (cold). Beyond that if the WAIT TO START is not coming on instantly the ECM is brain dead till the software boots up in the processor. Other than that it will not supply power to the lift pump nor the VP44 so it will just crank and do nothing. This still does not explain your error codes but it might explain the lift pump issues. Yeah I'm studying the ECM and it guts in my spare time researching all the different chips and processors.

First off there is a lift pump power directly by the ECM there is no fuse nor is there a relay for the lift pump. Typically the lift pump is on the side of the block or in the fuel tank for stock configuration. So there is no way to shut down that pump unless the ECM is damaged or the lift pump itself is damaged. As for the fuel pump relay that is the power relay to put power to the PSG on top of the VP44 injection pump. When you pull that relay that power is cut to the VP44 so that computer drops and the engine stops running period. Typically that will trip a P1689 code because of the relay being missing. So at this point you need to deal with the problem with the ASD relay. Go over the troubleshooting and check this out.

Need to deal with the P1389 code first thing... The ASD relay will shut down the truck if the PCM/ECM require it too. APPS sensor might cause a dead pedal but will not affect the ECM ability to idle still.

Just buy the ISSPro EV2 gauge also buy the Relay Kit. Then just program the relay to trigger at the pressure you want. I want to hook into the cluster and hit the CHECK GAGE light and trigger the stock alarm which I think is very possible. http://www.isspro.com/downloads/Instructions/IS208-EV2-Programmable-Relay-Output-Module.pdf

Fuel pump relay is the power supply to the VP44. When you pulled that relay it killed the VP44 power.

Patiently waiting to see the post...

So far on the stock side I've not seen anything worth while that's including either remanufactured or new. There are few members Nations Alternators and Mean Green but expect to pay much more for them.

The one to time I was on a Goldwing motorcycle and seen death wobble start on a 2nd Gen dodge truck... The axle was violently rotating bouncing upward motion so as one side came down the other side was up off the pavement. kind of a cranking motion left to right as the axle hops. As I watch it start and the watch the driver stomp on the brakes and as the speed slows down the axle stops and back to normal driving. After seeing from my vantage angle it was a real eye opener.

Try an experiment... Reset it back to where ot was roughly and then go for test drive and see what happens.

Very possible...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle Just some info...

The whole "Death wobble" experience thing. Why is it that people like myself gone nearly 300k miles and never had one problem with it? Stock suspension and the only thing I've got is Rancho shocks with over 100k miles on them. Then all of sudden someone gets "Death Wobble" then always seems like now that person need high dollar shocks (Bilsteins), high dollar suspension upgrade (3rd gen track bar), etc. What I'm trying to figure out what is the magic that has prevented me from ever getting the problem vs. someone like @leathermaneod that now is spending big money on trying to stop the "Death Wobble" problem.

Just to show progress... I've got a bag of parts and @Me78569 has got a bag of parts. So now I'm waiting on the circuit boards to be produced. Sometime around mid October we'll have circuit boards in hand.

I've seen bad brushes, bad rear case where the bearing and shaft jumps, I've seen bad diode the most, but also bad wiring to the field lead can cause issues. I'm trying to source out diode kits and other things for sale here for rebuilding the alternators possibly.

@Taz happens to have double hernias right now just lost the throw out bearing in his truck. I would have to classify him as a best friend I've known him for over 25 years. While he's fighting with the insurance company I'll get a clutch jammed in his truck this weekend. 4 hour drive to get there for me. I use to love going out and walking the woods when I younger and more carefree. Now I've got plenty of responsibilities and can't seem to get much of a day off. When I do I either doing home work (splitting firewood, laundry, etc) or catch some extra sleep. Then I could tell the tale of being held by law efforcement (Fish & Game , County and State police) for 4 hours over one stupid grouse and Dodge Ram Charger. Another reason I'm not too fond of hunting any more. No tickets, nothing illegal but harassed.

That what I love about the Ol' AirDog 150. My draw draw is within 1/16 from the bottom I rarely ever let the tank to drop below 1/4. I never have slosh issues where the pressure gauge drops. Even then the air is purged back off to the tank again not interfering with engine function. The biggest problem here is the install of the drawstraw and how everyone tends to cut them too short.

Most electronics are killed by high AC noise. 0.4 AC volts is a automatic fail... Normal good alternator is 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts. Marginal is 0.05 AC volts. Then a complete fail is 0.1 and above. I've got a 10 year old AirDog 150 still never been an issue. Also have ran a Edge Comp for over 10 year no issues even with a wire tap. ECM and VP44 still going. Battery terminal can play a role in this problem. The lead contact between the cable and the battery post should be clean and bright. As for keeping it that way light coat the terminal with engine oil they will never corrode again. Grease is OK but uo all way get it on your clothes and your arm while working where oil will not. I could tell a story of what happened but it would take to much time to type the entire thing. As for the electronics failure main problem is excessive AC noise. You above test was a FAIL and you cause to way things are frying out. Like My only lost in my truck was ABS computer so far. I've been through 4 alternators now.

If you pulled the fuse and the problem is gone then you still have an bad alternator.

I seen that one in the PM but that was from the first tune. I have no idea what the last one looks like. Shoot you've made like 4 or 5 flash files now.

Since you've got it all figured out you can go to Walla Walla, WA and install a clutch for can't you? I'll take the weekend and go hunting...

Don't have time to just walk the woods... Too much work on the list. Sad but true...

Grouse season starts soon too up here in Idaho. Sad thing is, I've not gone hunting in 10 plus years...

The best of both worlds...

Unknown...

Can't hold speed at all on grades very well with level 3. Feels like I keep the pedal matted way too much to just hold 55 MPH which is still 10 under the speed limit. Lvl 4 has just enough power to hold the grades with cruise set for 60 MPH. Remember this is not the factory tune from Quadzilla this is a Custom tune by @Me78569 so there is bug and issues yet to iron out. Then myself getting use to the changes and the way the truck drive drives now.