Mopar1973Man

Some of the roads I travel just getting to home sometimes get borderline to that. I've got several forestry roads I travel that are we'll beyond normal service and classifies up near the washed out category. As for suspension I think its just fine empty truck it will bounce you around rather well but in offroading empty I tend to soften my tires up more surface traction of the tire. Where when I'm doing offroad firewood harvesting I've just got to bare with the rough ride and then get loaded and walk back out slowly. Weight of a cord of firewood is typically enough to get me to sit down on the overload springs. This should classify close enough to your cab over camper you carrying just my center of gravity is much lower. Take notice to my tires (tread design) and the I'm running open diff's (no limited slip). No issues. I've been running H/T's and A/T's tires for a very long time. I've only owned 1 set of M/T's and sold them before I wore them out. I've got chains for traction aids but never used them. If you understand the weight of your axles you'll understand what you can do and can't do.

Modified to 1-5 positions to 105%. No smoke really launching and driving normally. Since my last tank is a fill I can math out a number to verify. Also I got hired by "4 Elements Waterproofing". So I'll be driving back and forth to Homedale, ID to do a high school roof so I'll get plenty of time to check out the tune and how it does. I'll be doing rubber roof coating on a high school.

Just in the quick tune I created for my truck I'm back to 22 MPG (Uncalibrated) on the OBDLink. So far this is the best number so far I've seen from the Quadzilla. Like on my way home tonight from work I passed one semi-truck and it pulled like a scalded ape. Excellent power. As of the OBDLink it a rule of thumb for now till I can get through the calibration process.

I'm going to twist the map up. I'm going to try running the low end of the map high as possible. Then the upper end of the map for acceleration build the tune that is smoke free up across the boost. This way I can keep my fuel map at my cruise point nice and high for MPG purpose but acceleration when I'm higher in the map toned down. I'll play with this a bit today too.

I would have to say that is more likely due to less rolling resistance and the rotational mass is maybe down just a few pounds per tire.

I can say without doubt this man knows what he's doing. I watch him build my 46RE (96 Dodge 1500) in front of me within one day and do all the custom mods to the transmission that was possible. Then net result was exactly what I expected from his work. Very firm shifting transmission, works much better on steep roads, better hold back power coming down grades, and just works really well even towing trailers.

Nothing much that needs to be done. I've been hauling heavy out of the woods for 14 years just in stock form with no issues as of yet. No air bags, no suspension changes and no steering issues either. The only mod was dropping the 265's tires and going to 235's.

Mixed bag. Like I know the WAIT TO START lag is bad memory. Lift pump on coming on is a MOSFET failed. Sensors with all hi or lo volts could be a ground or 5V supply (regulator) issue. The big problem is after opening the case can you fold it back up tight and get it sealed up without water getting in the case?

Just trying the 90% tune of @Me78569 set my cruise control and watch the instant MPG gauge for a few miles. It would produce low teens roughly. Then just set the 0-5 PSI range to 100-105% +1 for each cell. So now do the same thing go out and set the cruise control again and watch for a few miles. Now it dances back and forth through the 30-50 MPG range like it use too. So basically you cannot tune to be smoke free and have MPG at the same time really. Your cruise boost pressure needs to be high in the 100's percent range to get the MPG up.

I can say that setting the CanBus fueling from 0-5 boost pressure at 100% to 105%. Now the MPG is back to the high mark again. What I'm learning is build the cruise boost pressure area for the highest fuel you can without being stupid smoky. I see some smoke under high throttle but clears rather quickly like the old Edge Comp. Started wrapping my mind around the tune and figure that I had to forget the smoke idea completely. First build your cruise boost pressure for good high fuel values, now I've got the timing back up and MPG's are nice and high again.

1/8" air brake line of any brand name will work. Don't use 1/4" too big and will allow pulses travel farther to the gauge. The 1/8" air brake line will help in snubbing the pulse out some.

Most of all the smoke I see is high rev RPM's above 2,500 with heavy foot. Down low its pretty much smokeless. I drove around Walla Walla a few laps between @Taz place and my RV even with a heavy foot in town it run very strong but the smoke is always high in the RPM band.

Hand math 11.5 MPG the only way I got that much was to run home with the water tank empty. Typically I get 12-13 MPG with the water tank full. So it's still lacking in MPG. Best MPG yet is 14.1 MPG with the RV with full water tank but that was with the Edge Comp. Quad is still lacking. As for the OBDLink I was going to calibrate on this fill but Bluetooth got hung up and crashed the app. Had no where to pull over so that will have to be redone. Still in all the number reported by the OBDLink is close and not far off.

Find out when I get fuel today I'm Lewiston, ID. Gauge vs. Odometer appears better like closer to 90 miles for quarter tank. Quarter tank is 8.75 gallons. Compared to 65 miles in quarter with the previous tune.

Right now just odometer vs fuel gauge need second fill I verify my calibration on the OBDLink.

Here you go... http://www.manta.com/c/mmd0zfg/idaho-diesel-technology-inc

I've got to drag the RV back from Walla Walla, WA. So far roughly watching the fuel gauge and odometer. 17.5 gallons at half and and travelling roughly 170 to 180 miles this is the lowest since I left the Edge Comp.

Lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM so that means there should be an error code possibly like P0230 code. Still need to test the alternator for excessive AC noise issues. Being there is no fuse or relay controlling the lift pump.

Correction. Not acidic, but basic... Still corrosive though. I'll have to agree that most people do not change coolant often enough and end up getting a offset pH number and turns corrosive eating everything in the coolant system. Head gaskets, hoses, rubber seals around the header tanks, etc. All corrosive materials tend to react with other material and change or discard something which typically settles in the bottom of the block and radiator. So this is an example of too late... When you start seeing rust in the coolant you've gone too far. The funny part is most people look at the coolant reservior and see it still clean or even look in the radiator and still looks clean. The problem is the rust is heavier than the coolant so it always sinks to the very bottom of block and radiator where you can never see it. So by the time the coolant is totally discolored it way to late and pH level have been doing damage for long time.

Any error codes present? Might want to plug in OBDII code reader and check for any APPS sensor codes. Then if you got a live data tool plug it in and check for the APPS or TPS signal and see if it dives out in the position as you drive. If so the APPS might be simply wore out in one spot.

P1689 is a communication issue. So there is a few things to check like ohming from end to end of the wiring from the VP44 to the ECM and check and see if there is more than 5 ohm of resistance if so repair the weak connection or wire. Then other is excessive AC noise fouling the communication. If you measure more than 0.1 volts AC on the alternator BATT terminal will running you've got a bad alternator.

Don't bother with that side of testing. Load test during AC measure does do anything for us. If there was a way to produce an exact load for point of reference then the number would have meaning. Since your truck with every thing one might be different to my truck with everything on is going to be different amounts of load. This why in my video I don't ask for everything on value because it has no meaning since there is no way to load up exactly 100 amp load or 150 amp load then it would have meaning. Since there is no load reference (actual amp number) there is no way to make any sense from the loaded value AC volts loaded.

I still wear the burns in my left index finger from those hot injectors. I knew time was short for him so without waiting for the engine to cool I was tearing it apart. I admit in push hard and fast I did forget to tighten the #2 line up. After he calledI started thinking about it and then (D'Oh!) Well I human I do make mistakes when I tired. At least @hex0rz can send his back in for repair and then mail back mine when he's got his fixed or replaced.

Okay... Then you won't mind going over to Walla Walla, WA and installing a clutch in 06 Cummins? I'm sure you really don't wanna...

Hang on guys geez.. I'm trying to do so many things.