Mopar1973Man

I had mine replaced and there was no difference. Then 3k miles more it decided to munch on the torque converter. So one simple little valve is not going to make all the wore out bands, clutches, etc better nor is it going to fix wore out torque converters either.

which one are you looking for?

1998.5 to 2002 all truck can have high idle. If Smarty Programmer can enable high idle on all 1998.5 to 2002 trucks regardless of transmission configuration. All I can say is the dealer is not very educated about these vehicles.

Like my truck being a close example. NV4500 5 speed manual went 263k miles before breaking the mainshaft. Then first clutch failed at 150k miles. Now compare the light duty 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 only made 160k and the entire transmission required rebuilding and torque converter replaced. Should try small town city or residential streets. City speed limit is 25 MPH and all residential is 15 MPH. Then stop sign every where. I will admit either auto or manual transmissions they both get hot in slow crawl driving. Even like my back country driving on and off the throttle, constantly changing gears, etc.

Might be time for the article to be updated...

I would assume you could order the glass from appliance shop and get the exact type of glass again. Typically it's a special glass like pyrex to prevent it from blowing out from extreme heat.

Even for my set up I've taped 40 PSI of boost several times now. I would say look for boost leaks as well. Create a boost cap and pressure the system and use some soap solution around gaskets like the intake horn and intake cover. Don't for get to check for around the two sensors MAP and IAT. I'm running a Edge Products unadjustable elbow. It typically holds fairly true to the 35 PSI if you climb up on it slowly. If you hammer down and grabbing gears the surge is fast right to 40 PSI but usually pops the wastegate and falls again below 36-37 PSI.

Are you remembering to add the freight into that cost too? People tend to do the math only on the products but since Opti-lube is a freight only product you have to remember add the freight charges into the math and then it get narrower on the savings.

Design fault. When Ed Grafton @Yankneck696 created those everything was soldered to the legs of the switch in return placed all the cable weight on the legs as well causing the switch contacts to pull out of the base causing P codes to start showing up. The problem is you would have unsolder everything replace the switch then resolder everything back on and end up back here again when it fails. This why the whole design was changed over to circuit board design this reduced the strain on the switch and made it serviceable. If the switch fails at this point it's easy to unsolder the damaged switch and solder in a new switch.

Very nicely done job there. Just increased the value of your truck... I've seen a bunch of trucks with a broken dash sure makes them look cheap and worthless. Just changing out that broken plastic for a fresh dash looks really good!

Actually something went wrong this time. @Me78569 his last two tunes are acting goofy. So I'm going to back down to the last working tune. Depending on your phone screen size the cog is very tiny, hard to hit with your finger tip, in the upper left and very dim hard to even notice it. The 3 dot menu will not even show up. Now on my Azpen A729 Tablet the cog is good sized and easy to see, easy to hit with your finger tip and the 3 dot menu button is also very visible. Here is a screenshot of the LG 4GLTE phone I'm using.

Like my truck is also 2002 as well like @JAG1 and I cleared over 150k miles with OEM ball joint on all this rough country and dirt road travels including trailer towing. I'm on my way to 300k miles now and I'm pretty sure my cheapo ball joints (not Moog) will make it to 300k they are still tight yet.

The security forum is in place for all those wish to join. First off its only visible for members that have donated. So now if you click on the forum it will error out showing the process of joining the forum. Be aware your phone number must be accurate because a staff member will be calling that number to verify the member by phone.

Like I've got my little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 46RE that tows a 7,000 pound trailer without a thought either with a 46RE transmission. Quite impressive to see the little truck tugging a fully loaded trailer full of firewood down the highway. So you don't have to swap if you don't want to. Just you have to consider upgrading the guts a bit. As for @Dynamic you don't have to go for a full rebuild you could pull the torque converter and valve body and swap new updated ones in. You could mail your valve body to @Dynamic he'll modify your valve body and mail it back.

Good point. Automatics are not exactly a strong transmission in stock form. There is a solution to that Dynamic is quite the transmission builder too.

That's why I using smaller injectors and allowing the electronics to make up the short comings. This gives me a better range of control over my fuel. Where as large injectors your already big fuel and stack a module on your just getting bigger yet. This speaking more so Edge Products. Now seeing the Quadzilla there is hope for the large injectors because of the @Me78569 "The Wizard" of Quadzilla tuning. There is ways of pulling down below stock rate to keeping things happy with the truck where Edge Products everything is above stock rate.

Now I can do the same thing with @Mopars Mistress turn it down to level 2 or 3 and let her take the truck... LOL. I'm also very happy with the turbo cool down timer that is really handy. Wiring is so darn simple and how it holds the ignition power on till it cool and then disconnect.

That what this next flash is jumping back up to 12 PSI to clean up the wire tap transition.

Not exactly something I would brag about... But it true your living proof of that...

@IBMobile place is anywhere he parks his RV.

Yes, bigger injectors need a bigger turbo. Bigger the turbo more smoke and lag. Yes, he is running 100 HP injectors but running a custom fitted VGT turbo with his own home built controller. Way different animal compared to a large fixed geometry turbo. The only thing I could think of to try is custom fit a HE351 turbo in and then it should support the 100 HP injectors. Still in all... It's all based on customizing beyond just bolt in turbos.

Most likely why @Me78569 has to bump my tune to 12 PSI on the wire tap because I watch the boost gauge not the phone display. I know I need 10 PSI for clean run but if the MAP sensor is off then that why I still hold that small puff smoke on my wire tap levels.

I've alway knew about the inaccuracy between MAP sensor and boost gauge. Just know that I've seen it I can clue other that are solo to a module like Edge Juice or Quadzilla Adrenaline that the gauge is not accurate for true boost pressure numbers. Not saying that Edge or Quadzilla are to blame but the MAP sensor itself being it's getting all the data from the MAP sensor for boost fooling.

Kind of like myself I'd recommend "Vulcan Performance" all day long. Personally I wouldn't go much over 50-75 HP sized injectors if your towing. You can fit those against a HX35W turbo fairly safely without much issues.

This comes from the 12V engine that was common for the overflow valve to become damaged and create issues. In the 24V or VP44 fuel system they are super rare to fail ever. What is you fuel pressure like? If the lift pump is no running properly or creating enough pressure then it can create these issues.