Mopar1973Man

I've seen one other report of a spark/arcing dampener Still never heard of the solution to that problem.

You going to have to get a hold of a live data tool and watch the data from you temp sensors and see what's going on.

My fire chief has a plow just like that but it does have its limitations. If its packed snow or wet heavy snow it will have issues with pushing it. I was pushing more snow with my ATV that he could with the truck blade. For light snow yeah it does very well though.

I've seen where weird issues occur with Edge EZ because of the module being under the hood and the circuit board getting wet and corroded. You might want to unhook it and open it up and inspect for water issues.

Just dealing with frozen fuel filter out here with -10*F weather. This is a small tractor I was working on that wouldn't start. No matter how much anti-gel you dump in the tank there is nothing it will do for frozen water.

100-140*F is good for both power and economy. Any where between 100 to 140*F IAT temperatures. So that's basically 60-100*F outside temperature.

Sensor is normal. Nothing wrong. Typically it's about +40*F over outside temp. 30+40=70*F so its working normally nothing wrong.

Just using a OBDLink LX... http://www.obdlink.com/ You can use a smart phone or tablet...

Hook up a tool and measure the IAT and the ECT at key on they should match... No removal needed...

Yes. The power comes from the trailer +12V red lead. Using a relay to power the light and trigger the relay from the stock reverse lead.

Optimal IAT temperatures is 100-140*F below this range the MPG's drop approximately 1 MPG for every 10*F. As the IAT temperature falls the timing is advanced more. So if you adding cetane booster on top of winterized fuel plus colder IAT temperature you have a mixture for over advanced timing. You need warm air for optimal ignition quality colder air retards the ability to ignition the fuel being you are attempting to ignite fuel with cold air you need more timing to get enough time for the fuel to pop. As my gauge is marked for optimal IAT temperature. Below 60*F MPG's fall rapidly. Why else does the MPG fooler work so well at 143*F IAT temperature...

Have you consider calling Edge and seeing if there is updated flash for your module?

Maybe in the early years when modules when being developed and the technology was new. Yeah there was several buggy units that could do damaged because we were nothing more than beta testers back then. Technology and information has been vastly expanded and failure rate of wire tapping is nearly zero percent. Today there is better designs of modules now. If wire tapping creates stress and failures boy there would be a entire performance crowd today spend large amounts of money on replacements. Rather strange I'm on my way to 300k miles on this pump with it being tapped for 10 years with a Edge Comp and now Quadzilla... Nope... I do NOT see wire tapping as a pump killer... But excellent way for pump builder to get out of warranty or sell a wire tap warranty for much more. There is a notch in the insulation of the fuel solenoid. As for the stealth plate there will be a hole in the PSG where the screw tapped the wire.

... also excessive AC noise, poor lubricity from excessive use if injector cleaners and cetane boosters, poor quality filters letting water and debris in the system, home brew biodiesel issues, etc. The list goes on...

Vulcan performance is another good provider of VP44 as well. I also agree DAP is also good. I know both using industrial injection which is a certified Bosch rebuilder with Bosch 815 test stand for calibration. Sad to say Blue Chip does not have a calibration stand.

Nick hit the nail on the head.

Let's just put it simple. When some one with 3rd Gen brakes and oversized tires (GPS verified) can beat my MPG high mark I'll start listening... So far it has not happened yet. When it does happen I will be asking all kinds of questions.

1996 Dodge came with 235's from the factory so there is no gains or losses. Yes. Driving style is a huge factor. I always keeping a buffer zone ahead of me, rarely even in traffic do I just jump the brakes hard. Even with the 96 I use the transmission to slow down never just use the brakes alone I use the transmission and gear down and reduce my speeds before applying the brakes. I've driven like that for years. Still the fact remain the heavier the rotational mass the more heat energy is created in the rotors to slow that spinning mass down. So the heat energy created is more or less equal to the spinning energy you are attempting to stop. You can't change physics... So lighter mass spinning means less heat created and less brake pad wear.

Just like @Taz he's running 35" tire on his truck way more rotational mass, way lower MPG (14-16 MPG), and final gear ratio is more like 3.22:1 roughly. So this plays a roll too. Yeah... But, how about on my 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 with 46RE automatic? Try again. I got 160k miles from the stock brakes. That towing trailers and hauling firewood too. There is no exhaust brake on gasser engine. Rotational mass... Again that truck has 235's as well again lighter wheels and tires.

My last time across the scales... MoparMom, Myself, and Diesel in the back seat I scaled in at 7,280 pounds. No cargo in the bed nor a canopy any longer and full tank of fuel. I scale my truck off and on to check the weight and math my tire pressure from it. But back to rotational mass when you look at true race tire and wheels they are super light like 20-25 pounds per tire. This is to reduce the rotational mass and get more power to the ground. Also, makes it easier to stop the vehicle. So using the same knowledge from racing efficiency is gain more so reducing drag and rotational mass.

Measurements... 235's 265's I also drive in traffic too. How about the last 3 months of driving in Boise traffic to go down to see Mopar Mom? How about Ontario, OR traffic? So I'm not excluded either. How about towing the RV in city traffic for two months? How about hauling that 10,000 pounds of hay down 7% grades and through 5 towns?

Running a stealth plate for over 10 years now without issues.

I've stayed away from this upgrade. I will not upgrade to 3rd gen brakes. The reason being is your adding more rotational mass ot the axles and reducing MPG's. For every 1 pound in rotational mass added is like 8 pounds added to the frame. You might gain better braking now but the added rotation mass reduces power output and MPG number. Same reason I went down a tire size just shedding 96 pounds in tire mass gained me 2-3 MPG more. I did my first brake pad change at 180k miles... I'm at 277k miles now I just checked my pads yesterday I'm at 75% of pads remaining so I'll reach my 360k change mileage easy. Even my 1996 Dodge 1500 with auto went 160k miles on the factory pads with an automatic V8 gasser. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html I would rather reduce the rotational mass so the brake can stop easier than adding more mass and attempting to slow down heavier mass. This all comes out as heat.

New Performance Tune... +50 HP injectors, HX35W Turbo, BHAF, and 3" Exhaust. It still smoke-free. Pulls like a crazed mule. 3rd gear on dry pavement it will spin the tire just rolling into the throttle. MPG's are down about 2-3 MPG but the power is much greater. It stupid powerful out in the snow really have to watch your throttle foot closely it takes very little throttle to get all 4 tires (4WD) to light up even on wet pavement now. No problems with EGT's either very cool running. Power Levels: 7 Fuel Load timing: 2 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Light Throttle Timing Adv:2 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 Timing vs rpm 1500: 16 2000: 18 2500: 23 3000: 25 Timing Max: 26 Pump Stretch: 2000 microseconds TPS Pump max: 100% TPS Pump Min: 20% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 5 Boost Scaling: 40 PSI RPM Limit: 3400 Power Reduction: 10% 0 PSI %: 105% 1 PSI %: 106% 2 PSI %: 107% 3 PSI %: 109% 4 PSI %: 111% 5 PSI %: 112% 6 PSI %: 114% 7 PSI %: 115% 8 PSI %: 117% 9 PSI %: 118% 10 PSI %: 120% 11 PSI %: 122% 12 PSI %: 124% 13 PSI %: 125% 14 PSI %: 127% 15 PSI %: 129% 16 PSI %: 131% 18 PSI %: 138% 20 PSI %: 138% 22 PSI %: 142% 24 PSI %: 142% 26 PSI %: 150% 28 PSI %: 150% 30 PSI %: 150%

I think this "boost elbow" issue should be brought up to Spencer. I think if you buy a Quadzilla Adrenaline you should be provided all the bit and pieces for full install to make it work.