Mopar1973Man

Darn mobile keyboards... Suppose to be dirt...

As for myself in running Rancho shocks with no issue. I've well over 100k miles and rides great even in diet roads.

I agree you should band clamp the resonator place also forward near the downpipe.

I just noticed a bunch of the photos are now missing on the original site now. Seem like someone didn't like the photos being up and getting them pull off.

The shaft that pokes out of the case that selects PRND21... That was really rusty looking in your picture I would of never push it back there the seal like that. Real pain in the rear to have to change that seal for gear selector shaft without pulling the transmission. Just make sure to clean the gear selector shaft and make it smooth before pushing through the seal again.

No. You are backwards. Dry weight is 6,588 GVWR is 8500 Actual weights are with full water, empty waste tanks, food and clothing. Again if I upgrade to load range G's at 3,750 @ 110 PSI would you still max inflate? Again max inflation doesn't always fit the trailer, tires, or loads. As you can see my actually scaled weight and GVWR. Still in the future I might upgrade to G's I never know if there is a good sale on them.

Something to consider KATOOM... Let's say I upgraded to Load Range G's (14 ply) on the RV. 3,750 pounds @ 110 PSI that is a gross capacity of 15,000 pounds for a mere 8,500 trailer GVWR. The OEM tire is a mere load range D (8 ply). Would you still inflate to max sidewall pressure? Reason why I point this out I've seen people do this upgrade on RV and other trailers where they are well above the GVWR rating of the trailer and still using max inflation pressure it is way over inflated. So in my using my RV as an example here it would be grossly over inflated. One of the gents I do work for I advised him as well. He told me he upgraded axles so he could run the Load Range G's on his enclosed trailers which came original with load range D's. The load range G's have a heavier carcase and can take a bit more abuse still in all with a 110 PSI max inflation there is no need to be that high. So be aware using the blanket statement of using max inflation does not cover every possible combination of trailer, axles, tires, and loads. Not everyone kept the factory size, load range or capacity tires which typically require a max inflation to hold GVWR. Again in the OP case of rental RV's you never know what the OEM tire was nor if they upgraded to load range well above. You never know...

Cost you billions if not trillions of dollars to clean it up if you do buy it.

Cost you billions if not trillions of dollars to clean it up if you do buy it.

I like Cowboy link much better because at least the spin on filters are going to have bypass set up to allow flow of fluid no matter what. This way there is no surprises when the filter plugs up and you can also easily spin a new filter and top off again.

No joke... Radiation is all around you that simple gas mask isn't going to protect you from all the active radiation in the area.

Its possible the gasoline caused some wear in the pump but the only way to find out is to change the VP44 for known good one. $1,100 is a big pill to swallow for most and would really hurt the wallet if you bought a VP44 and still had the same problems. Is that a gamble your willing to try? Personally I would exhaust everything else I could possibly try before putting money on a high dollar item.

Like my BigTex has Load Range C's 1,820 pounds at 50 PSI. GVWR of 7,000 pounds. (7000 / 4) 1750 / 1820 = .96 x 50 = 48 PSI. In this case I run 40-45 PSI even though most of the time I'm right near my GVWR of the trailer. This is so the tire can still deflect some what road debris or potholes. My BigTex is typically ran in offroad conditions more than highway so debris, rocks, potholes, washboard, etc. I've never inflated to max pressure still.

I agree with AH64ID on this on. Inflating to MAX is not a good idea. As for figuring out pressure I figure to the trailers GVWR not scaled weight. This prevents the constant need to scale to remath for every load. So like my RV I need a minimum of 57 PSI for 8500 pound RV. I tend to run 65 PSI because it takes up just a bit more side wall flex on hard cornering, still wears a flat pattern on the tread face that is equal from left, center to right. If I ran the tires at max pressure it would carry nearly 12,000 pounds. Actual scaled eight is roughly 8,000 and max GVWR is 8,500. Here is the math. (8,500 trailer GVWR / 4 tires) = 2,125 pounds per tire / 2,980 pound tire capacity = 0.71 x 80 PSI = 57.04 PSI So my current 60-65 PSI is very safe for LR E's ST tires. So why would I max inflate my trailer tires so they wear out the center quicker? Why would force the tire to carry all the weight on a narrow band in the center creating excessive heat? ST tires are no different that your truck tires you don't run 80 PSI in the truck tires do you?

I agree... I'm typically the type to dump on the ground for gray water when I can do out of sight of the public. I do agree it no different that washing your hand at the outside shower as it is washing your hand in the inside sink. But... It is illegal if caught dumping your waste water either black or gray on the ground.

Don't forget to get your new cup holder for the floor and change the dash cup holder (auto) for the pocket (manual). Being you'll not be able to fold down the old dash one with a stick in the way. Take notice to the dimples in the floor metal that is where 2 screw are shot in for the cup holder the other two where use for the old floor trim around the transfer case lever.

I'm like @IBMobile I've also got shin bone trouble around hanging hitches. I typically remove the smaller hitches and keep them in a milk crate in the truck bed. The larger RV hitch I pull it off and lay it under the RV typically.

You might not like them. Buddy of mine had his hitch stolen. So he bought a locking hitch pin. Sad part is the day he tried to unlock it to remove it the lock was seized up internally from mud and salt. Ended up having to use a torch and cut the lock off to get the hitch off. So yes they will prevent theft but might prevent you from removing it later too. Idea I've considered was getting a grade 8 bolt that was big enough for the hole and using a nyloc nut and tighten it down fairly snug.

Need to know the number of axles, tire weight capacity and max pressure then we can do the math on it. Like my own trailer I've been known to tow at 65 MPH. First let me state I'm 31 feet long in trailer and roughly 8,000 pound of trailer weight. Next thing is I always trailer with water on board and my 50 gallon water tank is to the very rear of the trailer. Being water weighs 8.345404 per gallon that 417 pound more at the rear bumper that can slosh left to right. Now all that said I can tow at 65 MPH without much problem but since the water tank is at the very back of the trailer all it takes is one wind gust or sudden jerk of the steering wheel to avoid an object or animal and the trailer can start a swaying action with is more pronounced as the water tank is now at 1/2 when water can really slosh around so just because you can do it doesn't make it the safe choice. Remember most all water tanks in RV's are not baffled and all waste holding tanks are not baffled at all. Now my kitchen gray water tank is still rearward of the axles as well. The bathroom gray tank and black tank are barely forward of the axles. So now consider half used water means split up water water weight some still rear of the axles and some now moved forward. Still unbaffled and still capable of sloshing. Now all trailers are not made equal so depending on design and weight of water and where its placed can make or break how well it tows at speed. Now if you travel dry like @dripley does then high speeds can be done rather easily less weight on the RV and less water slosh issues. Being the @dripley typically is at a full hookup RV park 99% of the time he only need enough water for travel time. So consider water movement into your safety factor and speed of tow.

Seem you might have to do some calling around. Seems rather high for surfacing a head. Unless I'm missing some sort of special requirement I don't know about.

I'm at 215k miles on my VP44... Keep going, if there is no error codes just keep going. The injectors do wear out. I would have your currently pop tested and checked. If the pop pressure is low and/or nozzle are getting pissy or poor spray then yes MPG's will fall. I would suggest stock or RV275 at the most. I would highly suggest a set of stock injectors and non-wire tap module for power. This way there is no issues for California smog testing. I don't think you want to keep changing injectors every year for smog testing. The module I would opt for either Edge EZ or Smarty. This way you can gain from timing and such improving the power and MPG some.

Sorry I don't have any pictures on the way out. I was told it will come out if you can get the chain set up just right. It will bare squeeze through the frame and cowling. I still don't see how being I took the valve cover off, #5 and #6 rockers and injectors out and still snagged #5 intake push rod and bent it getting the engine out as it slid the oil pan across the cross member. As for right now the truck is sitting in the yard rather gutless right now. The bed of the truck is filled with all the miscellaneous parts and pieces that you got to remove to get it out.

I agree... Just got to watch for those people that foolishly suggest inflating to the max on the side wall of the tire. In some cases you might have to if the RV or trailer was outfitted with a marginal load range from the get go. Like my Jayco (8,500 GVWR) was OEM with Load Range D's and gave very little margin just like 250 pound over GVWR. My BigTex (7,000 GVWR) is outfitted with Load Range C's and has even less room for margin like 150 pounds. The RV I've upgraded to load range E's keep nearly the same inflation pressure but heavier carcase on the tire. The BigTex when those get old enough to replace I'll upgrade to E's as well. Again there is more factors involved here like I would never suggest towing my BigTex at 7,000 GVWR at 65 MPH at max inflation 50 PSI I know that is a recipe for a tire blow out for sure. All it takes at that point is a pothole or object to break the belt in the tire and she'll start to shred instantly tires are just too margin for that kind of use. The inflation pressure needs to be enough to carry the weight properly but also soft enough that if it strikes a object or pothole it doesn't do damage to the tire. The tire should be capable of deflecting to some degree to prevent damage. I'm not saying it can't be done just for folks that are unsure or in the OP case renting the RV not to push their luck that's all.

In all my reading of RV forums I've not seen any manufactures that I know allow a 5th wheel / gooseneck adapters. This is the only one I've seen that makes me go... Ummmm...

I can see doing this with high quality trailer tires and possibly load range higher that what is required (ex: load range D's upgrade to Load range E's), then you can safely get away with it. If you are unsure, it's better to run a tad slower speed than to have a tire blow out rip the RV apart. RV forums are full of RV trailer blow out pictures. Some claim "China Bombs" are the cause of failure, some just don't know any better either too heavy, tires don't have the capacity, etc. Still in all, tire blow outs are typically caused from exceeding the limitations either weight, speed, or incorrect air pressure.