Mopar1973Man

Man I'm glad I'm strict about lubricating everything. All I can say is @IBMobile is right just take your time with a panel tool and slowly work your way around the panel. I will suggest that you contact a body shop for replacement plastic panel fasteners.

About 4 miles up from Lucile, ID on Cow Creek Rd. I was coming back from cutting firewood.

How many do you want? https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Accelerator-Connector-1998-2004-53031575AH/dp/B013RQG69C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-2&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/GooDeal-Throttle-Position-Cummins-Harness/dp/B01BBRG34W/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-3&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/Conpus-Throttle-Position-1998-2004-Cummins/dp/B01GEBM3A8/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-5&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Cummins-Harness/dp/B019RQSJW8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-4&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Dodge-Cummins/dp/B014ODBGMY/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-9&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Harness-Cummins/dp/B017ILO4T6/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-10&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Cummins-Accelerator/dp/B019RQSIUQ/ref=sr_1_18?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-18&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins https://www.amazon.com/Conpus-Throttle-Position-1998-2004-Cummins/dp/B01GEBM5BU/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467340212&sr=1-19&keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins

Some of those look like Timbo's remakes. Same Williams sensor but different patch cable.

All right here... Well if you go too far just depends on how far over done. If lightly over adjusted then the drum section will be hot and stink of hot brake pads. Really go to far it might really pull down the MPG numbers or not move at all. You can adjust them so tight the truck doesn't move.

Parking brake should be able to hold the vehicle from rolling on a mild slope. Now with a trailer it may or may not still hold as well but it does help to have it properly adjusted. Basically adjust your star wheels so the pad are nearly making contact to the drum. Then the cable should have small amount of slack I normally check by pulling the cables together at the adjustment I should be able to see a small gap at the adjustment nut. Guys like myself that live in the mountains it better hold that truck rock solid in place. Other than that I might find my truck at the bottom of a canyon.

My passenger side cable the outer jacket is split open and you can see the cable inside. I don't think it will last another winter like that. The driver side cable was sticking really bad and wore the driver side shoes out for me. I was wonder about why odd noise as it would creep. No brake lining left. I need to wire brush the threads on the adjuster it so darn stiff to turn and PITA to adjust any more. So parts will be here tomorrow.

Finally after all these years I wore out the parking brake shoes and the rear cables are hanging up which doesn't help either. So I pull the driver side apart to look things over and see if I could free the cable up. That was fairly easy just tape a funnel to the cable end and pour a bit of diesel fuel in the funnel and push and pull the cable. This freed the cable up again for now. Closer inspection I wore on shoe down to the steel and just about to make steel to steel contact with the drum. So for about $90 buck I'm getting two new rear cables and set of parking brake shoes for the truck. Explains why the truck would creep off on me. I should have parts by tomorrow...

That sounds like a OK plan to do. Don't have much choice unless you want to just replace the entire vacuum pump which may be rather expensive.

Wouldn't a Gear Vendors be a better choice? http://www.gearvendors.com/ag4x4.html At least then you could shift of OD on top of the OD of the transmission and drop your RPM's.

Here is my 2002... Bit more dents and wear but still in good shape. Spilled waste engine oil and about 3-4 years of road dust pack up under the liner. The bed liner has about the same amount of wood chips, dog fur, and dirt. Yuk.

Air is long gone by then... I would pull the lines and just blow them out I don't see a reason to replacing them.

Curious... I like to see this explained. Sounds awesome for the older car guys than want a touch of modern transmission abilities.

I really doubt the air bubble angle if you been driving the truck. I would have to come back to a restriction in the supply to the steering box.

As for the ABS light and Brake Light that is a ABS error of some sort. Double check the ABS sensor and be sure they are all 3 plugged in. Then you have to roll forward to clear the codes. The ABS codes are self clearing once the problem is gone. As for the pedal travel you need to bleed the system yet. You have to have a air bubble in the system yet.

Rebuild the calipers yourself for low price or buy fully loaded calipers and pay a premium. If you rebuild yourself you can inspect all thee parts for damage or maybe just debris. So it would be best to at least look at your current calipers full disassembled and check for problems. If the pistons are proper sized they should fall to the bottom of the body without being pushed in. As you'll see there is no seals in the caliper.

You could replace all 4 calipers. Just about 10 times more in cost for a fully loaded caliper. https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/CAJLE5298/CAJLE5298_0194578043

Personally I use the cheapest pad I can so not to eat the rotors. As for calipers I rebuild my own and it cost about $8 bucks a caliper to do it yourself. Really simple. As for preventing this you need to do a full tear down of the calipers about every 100k miles and clean and inspect all parts for size, fit and the seals. Simple bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid isn't enough. Caliper pistons typically grow in size with caked brake fluid. It easy to fix and again a full rebuild kit is about $8 bucks a caliper for the few seals.

Oregon is mandated biodiesel state I think B5. Idaho is still a 100% petroleum diesel state. As far as what I know that there is laws that state than if there is change in fuel content it must be stated at the pump.

If its a ABS issue it could be bad tone rings in the bearings which typically will not trip the light all the time. Like my ABS it will back pump the pedal and prevent you from stopping. If vacuum booster it could be a bad diaphragm or seal internally.

OEM and Wells are both electronics based to control thee IVS (Idle Validation Switches) where the Timbo uses a dual contact rheostat which does both functions in one package. Wells APPS still fails because of electronic weakness to AC noise created from failed alternators. Just like OEM APPS which does fail for the same reason. Yes the rheostat does where out too on both OEM and Timbo's but typically that is 5-7 years down thee road. So do you go electronics free, magnetic rheostat (electronic based rheostat and IVS) or the OEM (electronic based IVS) Wells APPS... OEM APPS...

Timbo's... The best APPS you can get that is electronic free.

No. Absolutely not. To hard to find electric rocks in the state let alone an "electric potato" you can buy one and show it to me... Nice to see your getting that truck back into good shape though. You still need to make that 500k mark yet...

Good reason to lift the bed liner and look at the condition of the bed before purchasing the truck...

Oh OK... I'll give you JAG1's spot at the blue spruce tree and the electric rock.