Mopar1973Man

Really impossible to do a VP44 without unplugging the APPS sensor.

For example this truck has been well used and abused... Yeah I was going to do it but I've got the big skirted fender wells and really didn't want to pull them out. I've done that on the 2002 a few times...

I've got to pull the one out of the 2002 here today and clean the bed out well. So I'll get more photos of that one as well. I've seen more damaged truck beds with spray in bed liners like Line-X or Herculiner. I don't know of a single person that lifts object up and puts them down nicely and the picks them back up to unload. I drag stuff in the bed chuck firewood at it everything. Just a few dents in the fender wells. The plastic bed liner flexs just enough to protect the floor from damage and anything you drag out isn't going to hurt the plastic liner much. I've seen spray in liners that have been completely peeled up on the floor from dragging heavy steel object in the bed.

AC noise voltage should be low period. Battery or alternator. The highere either get the more issues will happen like VP44 failures. As for the APPS I would have to agree with TFaoro I'm going to bet the APPS is not plugged in all the way. I've done the same mistake before too.

Ummmm... I'll hang my sign out...

Yesterday I wanted to clean up my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 after hauling a Common Rail engine to Boise, ID to be rebuild. I looked under the bed liner and it was dusty, dirty, etc. So quickly jerk up in the center and released the bead liner and flip it out of the truck and fired up the pressure washer. There was packed sand in the corners, a few good sized rocked in there, leaves, oil and grease, you name it was in there. After a quick rinsing out here is what a 20 year old truck with a bed liner should look like if taken care of. Fender wells have a few dents after a few years of wood hauling in the bed. No rust, and barely even wore through the paint in the ribs of the metal. Now you might be thinking I pull the bed liner all the time to wash the bed out. Sorry but no. This is the first time in like few years I've pull it out. Now with the tonneau cover I still haul trash, and stuff but have to either remove the cover (4 bolts) or folder the rear half forward to throw everything in the bed.

What is funny is re-man'ed steering gear box is what you going to do right now. I'll show you how to make it OEM tight all over again and what to look for wear wise. @Cowboy Thank you for getting the article made quickly...

http://csftl.org/when-to-use-a-locking-clip/ Best I can proved on doing a bit of searching...

... Attempted to divide by ZERO? Now you've gone done it... How are you going to fix this one? Hmmm?

Reduce your resolution. Most of the mobile issues of uploading is too high of resolution and the server runs out of memory trying to process the photo. 1024x768 works fine but like my Fuji FinePix 6 MP camera errors every time just about because of the memory problem. My old 2 MP Fuji FinePix no problem. My Cellphone 6 MP camera has the same problem errors out. Now run the photo on a photo editor and upload works fine.

I'm not certain any vehicle has that kind of seat belt any longer. All my truck are free pull seat belts till the counter weight then it lock like under hard braking.

There is only one wire to the PCM for the fuel gauge. The other is a shared ground for the tail light and such. My bet is on the single wire to the PCM. Should be able to turn the key on and probe for a 5V signal. (Educated guess) It's possible the float is stuck along the wall. Loosen the sender nut and rock the sender carefully left to right and listen for the arm to tap the tank wall. Then split the difference for center.

That bearing looks like this... As you can see it in place... As I told you about the 22 BB's that go back in... The picture above you can barely see the tube for the BB's. Just need to turn the piston over in the body to access the BB tube. I normally use a magnetic tip screwdriver for putting them back in or needle nose pilers.

The second link should work fine. I was hoping to see the bearing for the output shaft I'm not finding a kit with it though. Being you got the steering brace I think your OK. We'll work together to check everything to be sure its tight. You know if I get you through this you got to do a write up on this... Right?

Time to get it fixed before you do damage something...

I've just called Nate and talked to him about the rebuilding the gear box and I'll get him through the rebuild not a problem. I just want him to call me when he does pull it apart so I can have him inspect the input shaft pin and the power valve assembly for damage before going forward.

Whoa! I would of order a rebuild kit and rebuild your own. They are simple. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,steering,steering+gear+seal+kit,7403?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

This is true. CR Engine tend to like the 200:1 ratio better than 128:1 that the VP44 engine like better. As you'll see @dorkweed is using actually 256:1 ratio. 128:1 ratio is 1 ounce of oil for every gallon. 256:1 ratio is 1 ounce for every two gallons of fuel. On 12V and 24V engines you can run about 100:1 ratio without much issues but... As you get heavier it tend to add more of grey tint to the exhaust.

@Cowboy So... Where is that wonderful write up here?

Not to mention trusting a guy that lives in Idaho without a Idaho potato field... The whole problem back in the day was the idea of using waste engine oil for lubricant in the fuel. This was a very common practice back 12V engine being those fuel system could eat anything without much problem. The problem stemmed from the fact of modern engine oils started adding other materials which added to the ash problem. It other word these material would not cleanly burn and leave deposits on the injectors on pistons. WEO injectors As you can see the ash problem could mess up a good spray pattern rather quickly and there is no way to clean this off but to remove the injector and physically remove the build up no fuel additive can clean this. So the 2 cycle oil came into play because it completely ashless and leaves no deposits. This is one of my stock injectors after 85k miles of 2 cycle oil. So... The ash problem was cured with 2 cycle oil. Then the HFRR was cured as well with 2 cycle oil. 200:1 ratio is 474 HFRR and 128 ratio is more closer to 380 HFRR or so (Unofficial testing). Clean oil so its not going to put debris in the costly VP44 injection pump or your injectors. Not like waste engine oil could have all kind of debris and water. So that problem was solved. Oils are a natural BTU enhancer since they pack more BTU's but burn slower it typically reduced cetane numbers. So most folks seen at least 1-2 MPG gain in use. (Dark green summer fuel and light green winter fuel)

I'd say air bubble or loss of prime that needle should snap right to pressure if primed. Could you re-do the video but this time open the needle valve so there is not needle lag from it. This will tell you what you chasing. Air bubble or loss of prime will lag on building pressure our fuel pumps can't push air very well. Excessive cranking pressure above 12 PSI typically is more so problem on hot engine not so much cold.

Need to blow backward through it flushing it not going to push a wedged object out forwards your going to have to reverse the flow. After driving for 3 hours in 95*F heat I can typically grab the pressure line steel parts without being burned. They are very very warm but nothing to make me jerk my fingers or hand back. I need to buy a IR Temp Gun. Through the device not the hose. Like the hydro-booster I would remove the lines and blow back from the opposite direction of flow. So the pressure line heading to the steering gear box that fitting on the hydro booster is a EXIT point or a supply of pressure for the steering box. I would apply pressure to hopefully blow the debris out of the hydro booster. Typically this where the hang up is.

Normal. Mine does the same thing. Normal because of all the ttread face biting the surface and low pump pressures. Becomes better with 235's very little drag and effort. Warm yes. Hot enough to burn you then you have a line resriction. Mine typically is just warm about 140*F or so. If you are getting super heated that is because of a restriction in the line the pump is more or less partially dead heading. I would blow air back through all the devices in reverse direction to possibly remove the partial blockage. TFaoro was fighting a partial blockage that was creating enough heat that it was burning up the pumps. I just got of the phone last night with a guy for the same problem too. He even admits something broke and popped in the system. (Not good).

This is true... But... There is some mild differences. Volume of fluid moved by the master be it brake or clutch I'm sure the clutch moves less volume and pressure compared to brake master cylinder. Also the hydraulic lines on brakes are smaller in ID diameter and made of steel to handle high pressures where the clutch is slightly larger and made of plastic so air bubbles don't flow as well. I ran into this same issue on a Chevy 6.5L diesel and bleeding the clutch and it was a PITA to do. The air refused to travel downward.

Cranking fuel pressure should be 7-12 PSI. Anything over that will cause hard starting typically. If your have trouble getting started try unplugging the FASS for start cycle and see if it goes away. If so this tells me your fuel pressure during cranking is too high and need to reduced the pressure. Watch the gauge closely if the gauge hangs low and then pops up quick then its a air bubble and loss of prime. If the gauge is just above 12 PSI while cranking just too high of fuel pressure.