Mopar1973Man

At least my setup I'm still using stock hydros so the pedal effort is no different from stock to now. I can't speak for other clutch or people.

Another tidbit... About APPS relearn why is it that we have to do it? That's because again when your dealing with electronic device ECM vs. the APPS regardless of manufacture the APPS relearn only sets the lo and hi limit of the current APPS sensor. It just when you do a APPS reset your wiping out the memory on the ECM and the first key on your cycling from lo to hi volt range and turning the key off. This sets the limit of range for the ECM and it knows this is normal range now. So the ECM knows X volts is 0% throttle and Y volts is 100% or WOT.

Another answer... Now notice there is such a wide range of APPS voltage tags seen out there and Wells APPS stating to get in between 0.5 to 0.6 volts. Why? That's easy. When your dealing with electronics resistors and such are not exact in value its always in tolerance of 5% or 10% or may 20% so now the possible voltage toggle position could be any where between X to Y because one resistor could of been +2.5% and the other could of been -6.9% off the mark. I doubt it... If it would you could just turn the key ON (engine OFF) and press the pedal to the floor it would trip code if out of range.

If the WOT position is too high then it will trip the P0123 APPS volts too high then dead pedal on you. Most of this was learned from dealing with people doing it the wrong way and then creating bigger problems like this old CF article. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-maintenance/13542-apps-adjustment.html This article will create all kinds of problems because typically your end voltage at the APPS will be too high and create problems for auto transmissions, high idle kits don't work nor does the exhaust brake. So this prompted me to learn and understand how the APPS sensor truly worked and then re-write the article here. No you don't. IVS is toggling properly for you so really there is nothing to worry about. It's when it quits working you start to worry. Again your trying to match range of motion to range of voltage. So the trick here is to make sure you can reach both your lo to hi volt range. I'm going to take some time in the future and do the testing for extreme limits of the APPS and create an article that will be more enhanced version of the basic voltage adjustment above. The lo volts is going to be tough being both mine and the the two extras are from 0.4xx to 0.6xx volts range. The hi volt spot I'm going to push mine as far as possible to find it. Take notice to the Timbo's APPS it not slotted in the mounting holes. Now look at the OEM and Wells APPS are both slotted and adds to the whole adjustment problem. On the Timbo's you just bolt it up and then set your idle stop screw. Wells and OEM you've got to find that range of motion that gives the most to the both. If you can get at least close then the rest should be good.

Lower is better but this give technically more throttle slack. This why on the Timbo's you adjust the stop screw till the voltage rises then back off again and add 1/2 turn back yet to the stop screw. This puts the APPS as close as possible to the THROTTLING position without being too close. The whole idle voltage set has nothing to do with idle speed (Internet myth). Like my high idle kit and exhaust brake are based on the IVS state. If the IVS is in IDLE position then the exhaust brake and high idle features work. IVS in THROTTLING mode then neither devices will work. This is why its stated you can not adjust the idle speed of the engine because once IVS selects IDLE position then the APPS voltage value is totally ignored and the on board ECM software controls idle from that point on. Idle speed is calculated from ECT offset. So in my own testing if you decrease ECT it will raise idle speed or if you increase ECT then the idle speed is lower. Once the IVS flips to THROTTLING mode then the ECM runs strictly on the APPS commanded voltage value. So back to where this person claims that idle voltage has to be set at .5xx volts is false for Timbo's. But holds true for Wells and Stock OEM APPS because the IVS state is based on voltage. Another though you say its difficult to adjust. Again people are adjusting this all wrong. I gather your adjusting from the back side with the two mounting screws? Again this is wrong. Just use the set screws in at the bellcrank to raise and lower the idle voltage. Then the WOT stop pin you can adjust too. The reason why it wrong to adjust from the back is because you altering your WOT and IDLE setting within the set span of the set screws. So if you raise idle voltage from the back then your also raising the WOT voltage and visa-versa. I'm going to find out how far the WOT can be set and see if I can get a safe high and low voltage range for APPS sensors. So make your life simple use the stop screws and not the beck side twisting the sensor.

More... Here is a close up of the wiper. Like little hairs... Again... Voltage is NOT suppose to be set to the tag of the OLD APPS. That is wrong. The voltage has to be set for IVS to be in the idle state. This is why I don't suggest OEM or Wells because people assume way too much in voltages and screw everything up. The IVS is trigger by a preset voltage to toggle between ilde state and throttling state. So that what the electronics do is control the logic betwen idle and throttling. What you need to set for is the IVS voltage for Wells APPS not the old OEM. Here back to the Timbo's there is no voltage adjustment because the IVS is mechanical and the mere angle of the bellcrank is what toggles the IVS from idle to throttle. Just for fun here is the best picture of a Wells APPS I could find. As you can see it still electronic but there is no contact because it uses a magnet for the position. Still the IVS is voltage driven so proper calibation of the idle voltage MUST be done to the Wells specific not the old APPS sensor. As you can see it still based on IC chip to handle the logic of the IVS switch.

I peeled the wiper hub out of the rheostat to sho the IVS section and how i works. Look at the previous picture there is a set of wipers on both sides. On side is for the throttle value the other side is for the IVS (Idle Validation Switch). As you can see as throttle increases the wipe moves from one to the other in contact bridge to a ground pad. This is way handles the IVS signal to the ECM. So this shows the simplistic design of a timbos where its nothing more than a rheostat and a contact patch for the IVS. Much better than this from the OEM... Wells is no different really.

About the Wells and OEM APPS they both have the same weakness to AC noise and electronics failure typically show as a P0121, P0222 or P0223. So it might not wear out because of a magnetic sensor (no contact) but a Timbo's is completely electronic free. The problem with the Wells and OEM APPS is its still based on voltage to toggle the electronic IVS (Idle Validation Switch). Timbo APPS is fully mechanical IVS switch no electronics. Which way to go is up to how deep your pockets are. Wells is for sure more expensive than a Timbos... I've just got my two extra Timbo's APPS. I made a request for this exact reason so he sent me two APPS sensors to play with. So here shortly I'll be popping open a Timbo's APPS to show the guts and the fact there is no electronics to fail. Yeah the rheostat might wear out but 5-7 years down the road. Here you go...

Well I was on the right path then wanting to pull the front two frame mounts and prying the fender apart. Apparently there is enough room to lift the engine up and clear the oil pan to the cowl of the cab. I've only got a few more things to do and the hoist comes in.

Easy way to check for vacuum issues to leave the fuel cap loose.

Head stud a recommended by most engine builders. As for fire ring or o-ring that is required for more of a racing setup like TFaoro with high boost and twin turbos to prevent gasket blow out. I'm sure Ron will answer all your questions. You can call and talk to Ron he's the owner. http://www.northwestmotormachine.com/about.html

Just if I can get the local insulation guy to blow in the attic for me... I've ask several times but keeps putting me off.

Show look like this when done... All Parker Push Lock and JIC fittings.

Why not travel 125 miles north to my shop and we'll do that conversion with tools and a shop to work in. Rattlesnake is pretty good eating if it cooked right. Taste just like chicken. Yes... I've eaten rattlesnake before...

No. Sorry... Here is the open field to the left of Catfish (public ground). https://www.google.com/maps/@44.2638779,-117.1267964,446m/data=!3m1!1e3 Here is the one I stayed at last. https://www.google.com/maps/@44.2564288,-117.1395657,446m/data=!3m1!1e3 One more small area before the Interstate. https://www.google.com/maps/@44.2572891,-117.1685087,442m/data=!3m1!1e3

I've only got the one load so far I need another 4 trailer loads and still split about 8-9 cords worth before winter. Time is ticking away...

Absolutely... The all around safest solution is replace the entire head. I found a wonderful machine shop in Caldwell, ID that does CNC cobalt valve seats for Cummins head and has the tooling for doing fire rings. That was half of my last trip was it interview this machine shop and see what kind of quality for the owner of the truck I'm working on.

Same here still burning wood as well. I've got less than 1 cord remaining of split firewood. Look at the bottom of the picture and current weather as of this morning when I posted. I figured out a way to add METAR data from NOAA's web site to my conky panel on my desktop.

AirDog pump are fine now its just there crappy plumbing solutions with the quick connects. FASS I like the plumbing but hate the huge size of the pump very difficult to hide.

To confirm this... http://freebeacon.com/issues/idaho-becomes-ninth-constitutional-carry-state/

I'm thinking about the aluminum and exhaust clamp idea as well just for sake of radiant heat from the exhaust on slow speeds and hill climbing in the forest. As for exhaust pipe wrap / jacket or fast coolers I'm not going that far. What little summer heat I've got to deal with and so far with the monitoring the transmission temperature I've not seen anything to panic about for transmission temperatures.

Some of us don't have RVs that can operate in temperatures below freezing mark because of plumbing issues and design. Like mine if the temp falls below 32*F I'll have frozen pipes by morning being the water line for the bathroom leave the living area travel outside below the slide to reach the bathroom so operating at temps below 32*F are not going to happen for me. I do know of the trip to Newman Lake, WA to see Dynamic up there I sure did suck up the propane at temps close to the freezing mark. That is very rare for me...

Ohhh... Since I know her I'll make sure you get relocated next to the dumpster then... LOL! (jk of course...) MoparMom is getting well versed in boondocking and enjoys it more than RV parks now. True 2-3 days of boondocking then we agreed that you need to stay in a RV park for a good shower and not have to miser the water and power. If JAG1 doesn't bring the steak and lobster MoparMom might not take you back out for milkshakes again...

I'm curious if this radiator support cross brace has to be removed to remove the engine? If so how do you remove this cross brace? I've got the 8 bolts already lose in the picture. When I remove then the brace will slide a bit both ways but not enough to remove it.

That does hold true. Any gear other that direct 1:1 does produce heat either in reduction or overdrive. Overdrive gear does produce the most because of the constant high power (HP/TQ) against it. Where I think that even lower gears do produce some heat but not like overdrive at high speeds like 65 MPH and up. Like with my pass example of towing up hill again laying more power against the gears towing up hill with a lack of cooling wind. The lower gears I would say produce heat because of lack of cooling and typical driving launching from light to light you laying quite a bit of power to the lower gears towing but lacking in the wind to provide good cooling of the transmission. Once the transmission is heated up it takes several miles of 4th gear running at 55 MPH to bring it down. So city driving while towing will produce transmission temps solely for the reason of radiant heat from the exhaust and the lack of cooling wind. To be able to drive in direct gear and be towing 8,000 pound RV and barely make 140-145*F is really good. I was shocked on how long it took for the transmission to even heat up.