Mopar1973Man

One small problem I'm having with the cup holder idea. I've got a Dobbie that likes lay across the console. I can't deprive Diesel of his favorite spot.

Yes, you have to swap studs from the old to the new pump. No, sealants used. If it was me I'd grab a o-ring from my A/C kit and use it. I've got fairly good selection of o-ring.

Good suggestion... It might of been trip during the repriming event. I would clear the code go for 5 to 10 mile ride and check again.

As for my Fluke I bought back in1988 when I went to ITT Tech for electronics and computers. Still a great meter still accurate.

I told you @Dynamic is the man when it comes to automatic transmissions.

Point taken...

Mine is pretty simple really. The reverse light relay is hung in the driver side taillight area. My power comes from the +12V trailer lead. Then my toggle switch just bridges the stock reverse switch. So in trying to keep it simple mode. I do like @IBMobile idea of tapping the PDC idea very handy idea. Personally I'm wanting to re-do some of my wiring on the overhead console anyways.

Over the years I've custom made most of my custom pins out of paper clips and bailing wire. Yes it much better to use a proper pinnig device than forcing the wrong size pin into a socket.

...and don't think of it as spending $100 on just digital volt meter. Think of it as buying another quality tool for your toolbox for keeping your vehicle repaired.

Might want to look at my pass fuel logs... I just had to see if I could still do it. Yea... I can smack a 26.59 MPG for the day... Again the higher number are always going to show more so at lower speeds. Like all my 20-21 MPG are all running speed limit.

Old age has me scratching my head... I don't remember one as far as I know.

Do I hear a new product for sale in the store. Hmmm....????

That is all vacuum pump seals then...

That's just a size or two bigger than the one I worked on last. IIRC the last one was like 26 HP but a 3 cylinder Kobota tractor. All I can say it was sure a project getting the front load and all the stuff off to split the engine from the transmission. Once your get the engine out there isn't much to them. It sure amazing what those little tractors can do.

True... Way easier to replace the entire unit. Hard to see there is a large o-ring below my thumb.

I just bridged the plug on the reverse switch. So either its automatically lit when I shift to reverse or manual I can flip it on and hitch up trailers or what ever in the rear of the truck.

I just got called out yesterday morning at 7am for truck that died alone the highway. Come to find out the truck has problem or issues pulling fuel the tank. The fuel gauge is correct but is running out of fuel at around 3/8 to 1/2 tank of fuel. So watch this time around for when it at up based on level. Yeah the owner fill thee tank and it only took 20 gallons so the gauge was correct but the factory pickup is got an issue.

Reservoir on the pump is sealed by an o-ring. Look at the front side of the pump and see if its leaking from the o-ring.

Put the fitting on the shop floor and using your body weight to push the hose over the push lock fitting. I normally remove the full length of line to push in the push lock fittings. Impossible to do on the vehicle.

A good DVM should be able to read AC volts in the millivolt range. Then should be able to read across variable frequencies. Lot of cheap DVM's only can read 110 VAC and 220 VAC at 60 Hz. So when you attempt to use one of these you end up with numbers in the 29-31 Volt AC range which is no where near correct. I tend to favor Fluke but there is many of quality name brand digital volt meters out there.

Once the alternator is removed which isn't hard. Just grab a phillips screwdriver and take a few screws out and replace. Changing diodes on the road side is nothing. Even changing the brush pack is easy too its only 3 screws. So that being said just need a source of quality diodes being that is about the only thing there is a problem with. Brushes are cheap at LarryB but the diodes are nearly the price of an re-man'ed alternator. http://www.fostertruck.com/diode-pack-rectifier-bridge-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html http://www.fostertruck.com/brushes-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html

So the quick connect failed. Yes, your going to have to replace those two fittings.

Grab your DVM and start testing...

Vacuum pump rebuild is only $13 buck for the seal kit. That should stop you from buying injectors.

Reason why I won't upgrade... I still enjoy the huge stopping power of my exhaust brake.