Mopar1973Man

Once you own an RV you tend to have double batch of everything. Like my RV I've got basically everything you need to go right now. I've got to just got to check the dog food supplies, pack clothes, fill the water tank, dump the holding tanks, and grab personal stuff. That it. There is bare basics for food on board. I always travel with a full water tank since 90% of my use is boondocking. I very rarely use RV parks any more. So I've got thing like Coleman liquid fuel stove for cooking outside, cooking baskets for cooking on a open fire. Bedding wise there is the standard minimums like MoparMom and myself we both have favorite blankets that we pack along. In a nutshell it really don't take us long to pack up to leave it just the matter of closing down the house that takes time. Typically the day before I've got the fridge fire up and cold and everything hitched up and ready. So if you own the RV you can basically leave it packed / set up. Like MoparMom and myself were discussing different can goods we would like to leave in the RV for the summer time so if we leave late in the evening like this last trip we can grab of a can of something and munch for dinner. Even the dog has a extra dog pillow to lay in the RV. So we are not constantly packing and unpacking a bunch of stuff. Like anywhere is home for us now...

I'm sure @Dynamic could spit that out fast...

All speed signals come from the ABS module. The speed sensor on the automatic transmission is for shifting control not speedometer/odometer function. Basically the rear speed sensor is your speedometer/odometer in the rear differential.

Any error codes? Use a code reader. What is your fuel pressure like? Any rubbed holes or cuts in the boots? What's your boost pressure like?

Yeah it is different. Pull the fuses on the 4 wheel ABS and the ABS light stays on and the BRAKE light goes out. Then the speedometer, cruise control and grid heater shut down doesn't work. The only way to disable 4 wheel ABS is to pull the smaller sensor lead so the module remains in permanent error. The light remain on but the module will not fuction for ABS but all speed function work fine.

Be also aware that trying to use a large torque for this job can process weird results. What I mean is, I've seen people attempting to do 6 foot pounds on a 3/8" drive torque wrench, when you should be using a 1/4" drive that is actually rated for inch/pounds.

Be aware if the ABS module is disabled then the speedometer doesn't work... Then other things like cruise control doesn't work and grid heater don't shut down at 20 MPH anymore. So truly there is no way to disable the ABS computer. I ran for a few weeks without my module and found out what all fails...

Compression test and vacuum test will tell a bunch about the engine. Who said I was worried???

Like for example. I've got a reman'ed ABS module and tested on another vehicle works fine. Traded another module on to my truck and lights pop. So changed the front sensors 4 different times now. I know that I've got good sensors. My tone rings are creating the issue some how. Every time the ignition key is cycled off and back on it self resets and re-checks for errors. If errors are found then the light are set again. So basically you have to resolve the error.

Wow... going backwards... Well as for classic carburetor vehicles I can tell you you might have some thinks to look at. Like most factory carburetors are long gone and been replaced with Edelbrock or some sore of high performance carburetor. Do a bit of study on what was the original CFM sized carburetor that it was designed for. Verify it the correct size for the engine or design currently. Way too many back in the day yank off a old stocker and throw on a overly large carburetor and wonder why the fuel mileage and performance fell. If I'm not mistake the old 60's were really easy to do points and set them. The old Chevy distributors had a nice little windows to open and you could adjust your point gap using a dwell meter. Later the all in one high energy GM electronic ignition came. I've had experience with older Dodge and GM's products.

Had me thinking for a bit then it popped in my head... I need to verify the ECM header as well as figure out the other headers in the system like the ABS, PCM, etc. That would help us out.

It's been approved...

Good question? EDIT: Just thinking about it a bit. MAP sensor is only on the ECM so why would a PCM header respond with data?

Good too hear. I know it simple process but would you make an article on where you got the seals, part numbers, and how you installed it all.

Worse case the o-ring broke or you forgot to install it.

Bad reference to ground can create all kinds of weird issues.

Chris could we get you move a new thread with the study and information on your CCD project. That way we can let the this thread continue without hijacking...

That a cute looking kid there.

Would be willing to share the CCD data info with us. I'm wanting to figure out more CCD data and gain access to it. Like reading the error codes of the ABS as well. Would you be willing to make an article of your findings?

As the vacuum pump creates the vacuum it vents the air into the gear case. So if you have a vacuum leak then the vacuum pump turns into a small air compressor and pumping air into the gear case increasing the blow by gases and possibly adding blowing oil to the list too. So when the vacuum system is leak free there is no air pumped into the gear case. Also the engine oil is fed into the vacuum pump it increase sealing of the sliding vanes that oil drains back into the gear case as well. It's slung off the gear as well lubing the gears in the case.

That doesn't even make any sense. Intercooler pipe is way off to the right the front pipe goes down in the gear case face to the cover where the VP44 nut is. The final vent should be all the way back behind the bell housing of the transmission. I would have to see a picture of your set up.

Actually to prevent dripping or venting moisture doesn't freeze the end of the vent shut.

Mounted to the front wheel bearing. You have to remove the tire, caliper and rotor and right on top of the bearing is a sensor. One on each axle.

Front sensor problem.

No... That's your product... I don't do ATF... Yuk!