Mopar1973Man

Reason why I won't upgrade... I still enjoy the huge stopping power of my exhaust brake.

Bingo... This man has it nailed down. Like myself I'm a exhaust brake owner I clear over 180k miles on a set of brake pads. There is no reason why you would have to upgrade or modify existing service brakes if use in combination with exhaust brake. Now of course a diesel vehicle without a jake or exhaust brake is just asking for high wear patterns of brake pads being the diesel engines have very low resistance during deceleration. With me living in the mountain of Idaho and hauling trailer loads of firewood and my RV still to this day I rare touch the service brakes unless I'm stopping. All the slowing down is done with a combination of gearing down and letting the exhaust brake hold me back. So my service brake remain cool and don't normally get used till speeds under 25 MPH. so at this point looking at at least local laws compression or jake brake use is illegal to be used in city limits. So that being said what is the average city speed limit 25-35 MPH. Even for OTR truck this is rather light duty for stopping and can be easily stopped using either disc or drums. I read an article a while back stating that drum brake are more efficient for stopping power but more prone to heat issues and water issues. Where disc brake tolerate heat better than drum and shed water better.

According to Quadzilla stock programming it can already access full advancement. It just a matter of when... According to the information they provided me if you call for advancement too fast it will cause the VP44 to ignore the value. Hence part of the 65 HP limit. As for flashing the PSG unit it can be done on a Bosch 815 test stand but it take 3 hours of testing to produce the information for flashing.

The bleed screw editions of hydros tend to be really fun and easy to screw up. Being the reservoir is only a few ounces of fluid and you trying to push air downhill hill while the air attempting to rise up hill. Just easier to remove remove it and push the air up hill. The master / reservoir doesn't have the volume like the brake system for bleeding. Like Chevy truck of got this and it still a fight to clear the system of air because again pushing air downhill while it attempting to rise.

ECM would have to reflashed there is changes in software regarding throttling and launching. Auto's don't have the anti-stall feature of a manual ECM. PCM has to be reflashed because of the hunting for all the governor pressure sensor, governor solenoid, and other electrical features of the automatic which would create issues. There is no neutral safety switch on a manual. the only wires going to the transmission is reverse switch for lighting. There is several things are different wiring wise depending on model year cruise control is fly by wire vs vacuum driven, clutch safety should be a jump wire but not certain all years have the plug. Like on the automatics will require a safety jumper as well if the option is present. Then the reason I suggest change of harness I know the automatic wiring will just be hanging around it would much cleaner to have the proper wiring and not ahack job. with zip-tied wires everywhere.

I do a lot of jump starting of vehicles to especially those that don't start or being tough to re-prime up. Matter of fact it might of been the last job that killed my alternator on my truck.

Sublevels are design to give 3 levels of smoke control. Problem as you enter the defuel mode it seem to lose the timing and performance bonuses in the defuel mode at least on my truck. Once above the defuel mode now the timing and everything seem to be in full swing. Sublevels 4 and 5 are powered levels with little to no limits on fuel and timing so it much more aggressive. @TFaoro is right the main level is just limiting you max fuel at WOT. That's all...

The one piece system do not guarantee an air free install either. Typically the cost more and you end up re-bench bleed them too because of handling issues. I would rather get the separate pieces and assemble myself and bleed myself knowing the job was done right.

I would go up it 5x3 or 5x4. Trying to stay out of the defuel mode more. Sublevel 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost pressure. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost pressure. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost pressure. 4. Some extra fuel at low boost. 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI boost pressure. With that being said 5x5 typically netted me the highest being there was no defuel map also was the hardest because it was up to me to hold back on the throttle till about 10 PSI at then lay into the throttle. Correction I missed one value...

Doesn't guarantee noise free power. They are nice big alternators typically a single wire. Still have no battery temperature compensation so battery life is shorter and diodes still fail in those as well.

I'm sure you'd heavily fined now by a DOT inspector if your caught removing front brake system today.

Absolutely true... 14.5 Volts x 140 Amps = 2,030 Watts (heat) So now upgrade to 200 Amp... 14.5 Volts x 200 Amps = 2,900 Watts (heat) So where is this heat going to be dumped? Right across the diode pack. The whole problem is every one is putting bigger and bigger alternators in that just means more and more heat generated. The only way around it is high quality diodes on a oversized heatsink... But there is still going to be quite a bit of heat generated on the diodes from switching.

Not exactly something I suggest doing but in a pinch it will get you home if you know what your doing. I've practise with my truck off and on and very capable of rowing up and down without a clutch at all. Just need the clutch to launch beyond that I can float all the gears up or down. Again this is not something I suggest...

I was speaking generally. Not all vendors are the same but some do matching before shipping and some don't. Still I want ask for both pop and flow matching before shipping.

Only if you specify you want it done. Of course there might be added price because of this... Other than that 6 random injectors typically go in a box.

Basically 7 holes with each hole being 0.012" in size. So it would be fairly large nozzle. So like 5 x 0.012 would be the same size holes but only 5 holes which ends up being smaller. I've seen every thing from 5 to 7 holes so far but holes sizes could vary greatly. In the past it was rated on approximate HP gains now its mostly how may holes and how big. Tidbit to help.. http://www.wattsshopperformance.com/Injector_sizes.html

MPG is based how fine of a mist you can spray with the nozzle size you select. Make it more interesting is being able to burn as much as possible at very low boost pressures (less than 5 PSI). So this emphasizes more so on nozzle quality. So if you getting injectors I would highly suggest you have the pop tested and flow match for the batch you purchase. Now just 6 random injectors pull off the shelf and stuff in a box.

Still running highway speed limits and you'll see mixed towing and empty driving. Fuel logs for June... Yes that 13.8 was my firewood run. 9.2 was just moving the truck in the yard a short distance.

Even buying the part separated from Autozone you can do it for $95... that's a $55 dollar saving do it your self and bleeding the system out before you install it. http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-master-cylinder/duralast-clutch-master-cylinder/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2002/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/426195_0_0/?checkfit=true http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder/duralast-clutch-slave-cylinder/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2002/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/426213_0_0/

Not to mention change of wiring harness.

I'll agree city water and chemicals that treat the water can be problematic.

Check under the dash for fluid leaks at the push rod of the clutch pedal.

Wow. Impressive. Mostly highway miles I gather? I average about 30,000 to 40,000 for set of tires typically. The dirt roads ten to eat them up plus heavy chip coating out here.

Also check your shop floor for this little ball to see if it rolled away somewhere if you dropped it by chance.

Another 130 mile run including a 7% grade that is 7 miles long. I was not towing this trip just the truck. The weather outside is extremely hot at 104*F. Kept with posted speed limits the whole trip there and back. The most I've seen for transmission temperature was 165*F for brief time going over the grade. The rest of the trip it floated 158-162*F more or less a needle width below or above 160*F.