
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Notes from the wilderness!!!
I'd be willing to pay money for it even.. Gotta be 100 times better than any store bought chicken...
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Anyones interested for engine aluminum oil pan???
Not quite racing chrome but shined up...
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Knocking sound.
Actually you have to ask about the flow match and pop testing. Vulcan Performance does do flow match and pop test as well...
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Notes from the wilderness!!!
Nicely designed setup. So what are you selling the meat per pound? I might have to buy one of your "Ranch raised chickens"...
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No clutch pedal, can't get NV4500 into gear
Make sure you fill the reservior every cycle. Also trying to push air downward is really tough. So expect to fight it for a while and bleed, bleed and bleed...
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Knocking sound.
You and me both brother... I've got a Common Rail Cummins in the back of the 96 Dodge heading to be rebuilt because of a fail injector. That gets expensive. At least the 12V and 24V rarely ever eat a piston.
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OBDLink and Azpen Tablet
OBDLink and Azpen Tablet I know there are people curious of what this is. Everyone knows I've been a big supporter of ScanGauge II live data tool. Sad to say time for ScanGauge II to slide over and take second place now. OBDLink OBDII tool has way more abilities and features over ScanGauge II. OBDLink is dongle is a more or less plug and play tool that is completely wireless can be used either with Bluetooth or WiFI for some Apple devices. Myself I bought OBDLink LX dongle and using with a Azpen A729 tablet I bought from TigerDirect. Totally between the two devices there is $100. This is $60 cheaper than ScanGauge II and much more user friendly. The best part off this is you are no longer limited by a cord. That's right you can take your mobile device out to the engine area and see live data and error codes while working with the engine. No longer limited by a cord! Setup of Vehicle Information When you plug in for the first time OBDLink App will ask you to create a vehicle profile. Most of this is common sense like make "Dodge", model "Ram", year "2002", etc. The juicy stuff like volumetric efficiency and brake specific fuel consumption I'll cover below. Volumetric Efficiency This number is what is used to calculate your MPG and fuel flow numbers. As for completely stock 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram the Volumetric efficiency is 63%. As for figuring out offset number is rather easy. Just fill up your truck at a fuel station allow the nozzle to cancel on it own. Now drive a god amount of distance 100 miles or more. Hopefully come back to the same fuel station and pump (this is for accuracy). If not now take note of the gallons of fuel consumed and the gallons pumped. Now divide the two number to get a percentage offset. Now ADD that percentage offset to the 63% stock number and you'll have you new offset number. In my case it was 63% + 14.5% = 77.5% Volumetric Efficiency which is my new calibration. Make sure to have the "Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure" set for Fuel calculation method being the Cummins ECM does not supply fuel flow rate so it calculated from boost pressure hence why it shows no fuel flow at idle. Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) This number is what calculates the horsepower and torque numbers. For the 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins the brake specific fuel consumption is 0.393 as documented by Cummins designers. Like with my setup I'm running +50 HP injectors, Edge Comp on 5x3 on a SO Engine. So to add it all up 235 HP plus 50 Hp Injectors plus 120 HP Edge Comp I should be able to reach 405 HP at the flywheel. I done it several times where I touch 400 HP with the high mark. So the math is fairly close to right for flywheel power (torque and horse power). Look at about 4:22 in the video below I nearly touch 400 HP in the video. I've saved a few screen captures of being just over or at 400 HP several times. Creating Gauges As for creating gauges you can use the OBDLink App gauges to create digital or analog gauges. I tend to favor the analog gauges because its easier to look at needle positions or swings to see what going on vs rolling numbers which takes more though process and visual focus at times. My panel uses the analog gauges primarily but I used color ranges to note normal ranges and dangerous ranges. Like lets look at recreating the coolant gauge. The factory gauge is 140 to 240 span. Make sure to select "Engine coolant temperature" from the sensor list. The rest is optional the way you want it. As for setting the ranges and colors this is really easy too. Select "Style" and then select "Range". Now add a range you want. Set your colors and the value of start to end of the range. Like the red band on the coolant gauge I set for 220 to 240 in a red color. You can add as many as you wish. Personally I added the cold band so I can tell if the engine is cold yet or not at a glance. Then added the green normal band (Range1) so I can tell if it operating normally. Then the red zone (Range 0) which I would stop the truck and let it cool off if it reaches that zone. Data Logging There is wealth of data that you can data log in the OBDLink App. I'm set up more so for trip data. Now you can track your data for months or years with the OBDLink App where the ScanGauge II could only do day and tank and no logging of data over time. Like June 11th to June 17th was RV trips and towing my 8,000 pound RV. June 7th was quick move in the yard. Then June 26th was the making of the video which I got on the throttle deep and heavy.
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Knocking sound.
Could be worse you could own a Common Rail truck. $300 only buys 1 injector or $1800 for the set... http://dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-genuine-oe-injector-0986453503oe/
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Knocking sound.
Few things to consider... Your a P7100 pump with no dynamic timing. Also your fuel management is based on your AFC and plat adjustments. Head design between myself and you where I'm 24V and you only a 12V engine air flow rates are different. So consider the bit of differences as well. But I don't see any reason you couldn't take the time and adjust everything to get a low smoke tune and get good power from it. Again make sure to ask for flow matching and pop testing within a percent range...
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Knocking sound.
Here you go...
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Edge comp question
Not a problem as you found out just ask and we'll help you out...
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Edge comp question
Yes. It's fine to leave OFF. The software and tuning is disabled and the only function that remains is the boost fooler so it will not trip codes nor will it produce any issues.
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loss of overdrive when ac is turned on
I've seen several guys go through over 4-5 brand new alternators to just get one good one. Did you have it tested before you paid for it? Did you have the previous old alternator tested before you bought the new one? Do you test anything yourself using a DVM? If so what reading did you get? What happens if you unhook the field lead and remove the alternator fuse and go for drive?
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Knocking sound.
I'm still using my HX35W turbo, 3" exhaust, and BHAF... Works good.
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Knocking sound.
Just point of reference... I know the nozzle size is way different but a +50 HP injector on my 24V plus the Edge Comp I'm at... (Red marks are my high marks) So The Edge Comp is 120 HP plus the 50 HP injectors... Even adding it all up on calculator I'm getting 405 HP (235+120+50 = 405). Even my OBDLink LX shows nearly the same thing at the flywheel. I'm pretty sure you can use the +75 fairly easy +90 hp should work good too.
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Knocking sound.
you can do a mild upgrade like +50 HP or +75HP if you wish or go back to strictly stock injectors your choice.
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Knocking sound.
I know there is lot of vendors that just have boxes of injectors in stock and just chuck 6 is a shipping box with no testing, no matching or anything. It's just assumed everything is OK and should work OK. Thing is we both like to have the performance and everything as perfect as possible. Hence the questions. Now if the shop charges extra you know what would of happened.
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...I never thought I would
I just bounced a grouse off my driver side headlight few evenings ago. No damage. Scared the crap out of me because I didn't see it till I heard the thud and the feathers flew up. Again in my case I was traveling slower than typical because of the dust hour.
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Anyones interested for engine aluminum oil pan???
Sweet looking pan. Now if your polished that aluminum and then spray a laquer coat on it you would have fake chrome.
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...I never thought I would
I've seen deer clear the top of pickups. Like in my example a couple of deer come up from the river 2 made before the truck the 3rd one made huge leap and lightly tapped the canopy shell on the back as it came down. I watch this whole thing happen before me. I pulled over with the truck ahead and we were both shocked to see a deer jump so flippin' high...
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anyone ever thought about retrofitting tapshifter in place of our autos?
Talk to Dynamic he would tell you...
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...I never thought I would
@hex0rz Very impressive light bar. Just remember if its mounted above your factory headlights it not legal for the highway use as a rule of thumb. If it mounted below the headlights and you can aim the light bar properly then it can be used on the highway.
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...I never thought I would
I work on all kinds of truck with different types bumpers and grill guards most without the little area like you talk about.
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Knocking sound.
Now my question is... Are the injectors pop tested and flow match before shipping? At what value of percentage range?
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...I never thought I would
I like those kinds of bumpers for protection but in the same token I hate them too. Being I work on trucks all the time darn ranch hand bumpers like that are PITA. You are now farther from the vehicle/engine can't reach anything. End up laying across the bumper and radiator support. They can be a killer on the body laying across this mess. The other thing I see is most that own grill guards or ranch hand bumpers tend to hit animal more often and the bumper is alway tweaked to the point that the hood/grill rubs as you open the hood and/or you fight to push the grill back carefully to now close the hood. So its more of the thought most have I've got a beefy bumper I can drive as fast as I want and bounce deer off now still I'm the one dealing with the tweaked bumpers and trying to get hoods open. Kind of like the guy yesterday he had a grill guard as well and was driving way too fast for the time knowing there is deer and elk out in the evening hours. The people that don't have then drive more cautious and to this day have not hit deer and if so were driving slow enough no to do damage. I've kind of want one but I know how heavy they are and they add a lot more weight to a front axle that is already in the 4,400 to 4,500 pound range already. Lot of things to consider....