Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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... Attempted to divide by ZERO? Now you've gone done it... How are you going to fix this one? Hmmm?
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Reduce your resolution. Most of the mobile issues of uploading is too high of resolution and the server runs out of memory trying to process the photo. 1024x768 works fine but like my Fuji FinePix 6 MP camera errors every time just about because of the memory problem. My old 2 MP Fuji FinePix no problem. My Cellphone 6 MP camera has the same problem errors out. Now run the photo on a photo editor and upload works fine.
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I'm not certain any vehicle has that kind of seat belt any longer. All my truck are free pull seat belts till the counter weight then it lock like under hard braking.
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There is only one wire to the PCM for the fuel gauge. The other is a shared ground for the tail light and such. My bet is on the single wire to the PCM. Should be able to turn the key on and probe for a 5V signal. (Educated guess) It's possible the float is stuck along the wall. Loosen the sender nut and rock the sender carefully left to right and listen for the arm to tap the tank wall. Then split the difference for center.
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That bearing looks like this... As you can see it in place... As I told you about the 22 BB's that go back in... The picture above you can barely see the tube for the BB's. Just need to turn the piston over in the body to access the BB tube. I normally use a magnetic tip screwdriver for putting them back in or needle nose pilers.
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The second link should work fine. I was hoping to see the bearing for the output shaft I'm not finding a kit with it though. Being you got the steering brace I think your OK. We'll work together to check everything to be sure its tight. You know if I get you through this you got to do a write up on this... Right?
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Time to get it fixed before you do damage something...
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I've just called Nate and talked to him about the rebuilding the gear box and I'll get him through the rebuild not a problem. I just want him to call me when he does pull it apart so I can have him inspect the input shaft pin and the power valve assembly for damage before going forward.
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Whoa! I would of order a rebuild kit and rebuild your own. They are simple. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,steering,steering+gear+seal+kit,7403?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F
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This is true. CR Engine tend to like the 200:1 ratio better than 128:1 that the VP44 engine like better. As you'll see @dorkweed is using actually 256:1 ratio. 128:1 ratio is 1 ounce of oil for every gallon. 256:1 ratio is 1 ounce for every two gallons of fuel. On 12V and 24V engines you can run about 100:1 ratio without much issues but... As you get heavier it tend to add more of grey tint to the exhaust.
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@Cowboy So... Where is that wonderful write up here?
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Not to mention trusting a guy that lives in Idaho without a Idaho potato field... The whole problem back in the day was the idea of using waste engine oil for lubricant in the fuel. This was a very common practice back 12V engine being those fuel system could eat anything without much problem. The problem stemmed from the fact of modern engine oils started adding other materials which added to the ash problem. It other word these material would not cleanly burn and leave deposits on the injectors on pistons. WEO injectors As you can see the ash problem could mess up a good spray pattern rather quickly and there is no way to clean this off but to remove the injector and physically remove the build up no fuel additive can clean this. So the 2 cycle oil came into play because it completely ashless and leaves no deposits. This is one of my stock injectors after 85k miles of 2 cycle oil. So... The ash problem was cured with 2 cycle oil. Then the HFRR was cured as well with 2 cycle oil. 200:1 ratio is 474 HFRR and 128 ratio is more closer to 380 HFRR or so (Unofficial testing). Clean oil so its not going to put debris in the costly VP44 injection pump or your injectors. Not like waste engine oil could have all kind of debris and water. So that problem was solved. Oils are a natural BTU enhancer since they pack more BTU's but burn slower it typically reduced cetane numbers. So most folks seen at least 1-2 MPG gain in use. (Dark green summer fuel and light green winter fuel)
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I'd say air bubble or loss of prime that needle should snap right to pressure if primed. Could you re-do the video but this time open the needle valve so there is not needle lag from it. This will tell you what you chasing. Air bubble or loss of prime will lag on building pressure our fuel pumps can't push air very well. Excessive cranking pressure above 12 PSI typically is more so problem on hot engine not so much cold.
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Need to blow backward through it flushing it not going to push a wedged object out forwards your going to have to reverse the flow. After driving for 3 hours in 95*F heat I can typically grab the pressure line steel parts without being burned. They are very very warm but nothing to make me jerk my fingers or hand back. I need to buy a IR Temp Gun. Through the device not the hose. Like the hydro-booster I would remove the lines and blow back from the opposite direction of flow. So the pressure line heading to the steering gear box that fitting on the hydro booster is a EXIT point or a supply of pressure for the steering box. I would apply pressure to hopefully blow the debris out of the hydro booster. Typically this where the hang up is.
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Normal. Mine does the same thing. Normal because of all the ttread face biting the surface and low pump pressures. Becomes better with 235's very little drag and effort. Warm yes. Hot enough to burn you then you have a line resriction. Mine typically is just warm about 140*F or so. If you are getting super heated that is because of a restriction in the line the pump is more or less partially dead heading. I would blow air back through all the devices in reverse direction to possibly remove the partial blockage. TFaoro was fighting a partial blockage that was creating enough heat that it was burning up the pumps. I just got of the phone last night with a guy for the same problem too. He even admits something broke and popped in the system. (Not good).
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This is true... But... There is some mild differences. Volume of fluid moved by the master be it brake or clutch I'm sure the clutch moves less volume and pressure compared to brake master cylinder. Also the hydraulic lines on brakes are smaller in ID diameter and made of steel to handle high pressures where the clutch is slightly larger and made of plastic so air bubbles don't flow as well. I ran into this same issue on a Chevy 6.5L diesel and bleeding the clutch and it was a PITA to do. The air refused to travel downward.
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Cranking fuel pressure should be 7-12 PSI. Anything over that will cause hard starting typically. If your have trouble getting started try unplugging the FASS for start cycle and see if it goes away. If so this tells me your fuel pressure during cranking is too high and need to reduced the pressure. Watch the gauge closely if the gauge hangs low and then pops up quick then its a air bubble and loss of prime. If the gauge is just above 12 PSI while cranking just too high of fuel pressure.
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I'd be willing to pay money for it even.. Gotta be 100 times better than any store bought chicken...
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Not quite racing chrome but shined up...
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Actually you have to ask about the flow match and pop testing. Vulcan Performance does do flow match and pop test as well...
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Nicely designed setup. So what are you selling the meat per pound? I might have to buy one of your "Ranch raised chickens"...
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Make sure you fill the reservior every cycle. Also trying to push air downward is really tough. So expect to fight it for a while and bleed, bleed and bleed...
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You and me both brother... I've got a Common Rail Cummins in the back of the 96 Dodge heading to be rebuilt because of a fail injector. That gets expensive. At least the 12V and 24V rarely ever eat a piston.
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OBDLink and Azpen Tablet I know there are people curious of what this is. Everyone knows I've been a big supporter of ScanGauge II live data tool. Sad to say time for ScanGauge II to slide over and take second place now. OBDLink OBDII tool has way more abilities and features over ScanGauge II. OBDLink is dongle is a more or less plug and play tool that is completely wireless can be used either with Bluetooth or WiFI for some Apple devices. Myself I bought OBDLink LX dongle and using with a Azpen A729 tablet I bought from TigerDirect. Totally between the two devices there is $100. This is $60 cheaper than ScanGauge II and much more user friendly. The best part off this is you are no longer limited by a cord. That's right you can take your mobile device out to the engine area and see live data and error codes while working with the engine. No longer limited by a cord! Setup of Vehicle Information When you plug in for the first time OBDLink App will ask you to create a vehicle profile. Most of this is common sense like make "Dodge", model "Ram", year "2002", etc. The juicy stuff like volumetric efficiency and brake specific fuel consumption I'll cover below. Volumetric Efficiency This number is what is used to calculate your MPG and fuel flow numbers. As for completely stock 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram the Volumetric efficiency is 63%. As for figuring out offset number is rather easy. Just fill up your truck at a fuel station allow the nozzle to cancel on it own. Now drive a god amount of distance 100 miles or more. Hopefully come back to the same fuel station and pump (this is for accuracy). If not now take note of the gallons of fuel consumed and the gallons pumped. Now divide the two number to get a percentage offset. Now ADD that percentage offset to the 63% stock number and you'll have you new offset number. In my case it was 63% + 14.5% = 77.5% Volumetric Efficiency which is my new calibration. Make sure to have the "Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure" set for Fuel calculation method being the Cummins ECM does not supply fuel flow rate so it calculated from boost pressure hence why it shows no fuel flow at idle. Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) This number is what calculates the horsepower and torque numbers. For the 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins the brake specific fuel consumption is 0.393 as documented by Cummins designers. Like with my setup I'm running +50 HP injectors, Edge Comp on 5x3 on a SO Engine. So to add it all up 235 HP plus 50 Hp Injectors plus 120 HP Edge Comp I should be able to reach 405 HP at the flywheel. I done it several times where I touch 400 HP with the high mark. So the math is fairly close to right for flywheel power (torque and horse power). Look at about 4:22 in the video below I nearly touch 400 HP in the video. I've saved a few screen captures of being just over or at 400 HP several times. Creating Gauges As for creating gauges you can use the OBDLink App gauges to create digital or analog gauges. I tend to favor the analog gauges because its easier to look at needle positions or swings to see what going on vs rolling numbers which takes more though process and visual focus at times. My panel uses the analog gauges primarily but I used color ranges to note normal ranges and dangerous ranges. Like lets look at recreating the coolant gauge. The factory gauge is 140 to 240 span. Make sure to select "Engine coolant temperature" from the sensor list. The rest is optional the way you want it. As for setting the ranges and colors this is really easy too. Select "Style" and then select "Range". Now add a range you want. Set your colors and the value of start to end of the range. Like the red band on the coolant gauge I set for 220 to 240 in a red color. You can add as many as you wish. Personally I added the cold band so I can tell if the engine is cold yet or not at a glance. Then added the green normal band (Range1) so I can tell if it operating normally. Then the red zone (Range 0) which I would stop the truck and let it cool off if it reaches that zone. Data Logging There is wealth of data that you can data log in the OBDLink App. I'm set up more so for trip data. Now you can track your data for months or years with the OBDLink App where the ScanGauge II could only do day and tank and no logging of data over time. Like June 11th to June 17th was RV trips and towing my 8,000 pound RV. June 7th was quick move in the yard. Then June 26th was the making of the video which I got on the throttle deep and heavy.
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Could be worse you could own a Common Rail truck. $300 only buys 1 injector or $1800 for the set... http://dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-genuine-oe-injector-0986453503oe/
