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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Feed Circuit Test - Voltage Drop Test The starter feed circuit test (voltage drop method) will determine if there is excessive resistance in high-amperage feed circuit. For complete starter wiring circuit diagrams, refer 8, Wiring Diagrams. When performing these tests, it is important to remember that voltage drop is giving an indication of resistance between two points at which voltmeter Example: When testing resistance of battery positive cable, touch voltmeter leads to battery positive cable clamp and cable connector at starter solenoid. If you probe battery positive terminal post and cable connector at starter solenoid, you are reading combined voltage drop in battery positive cable clamp-to terminal post connection and battery positive cable. The following operation will require a voltmeter accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing tests, be certain that following procedures are accomplished: Battery is fully-charged and load-tested. Fully engage parking brake. If equipped with manual transmission, place gearshift selector lever in Neutral position and block clutch pedal in fully depressed position. If equipped with automatic transmission, place gearshift selector lever in Park position. Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned off. To prevent a gasoline engine from starting, remove Automatic ShutDown (ASD) relay. To prevent a diesel engine from starting, remove Fuel Pump Relay. These relays are located in Power Distribution Center (PDC). 1. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to battery negative terminal post. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery negative cable clamp (Fig. 2). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor contact between cable clamp and terminal post. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery. 2. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to battery positive terminal post. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery positive cable clamp (Fig. 3). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor contact between cable clamp and terminal post. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery. 3. Connect voltmeter to measure between battery positive terminal post and starter solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 4). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten battery cable connection at solenoid. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty battery positive cable. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed on driver side battery only 4. Connect voltmeter to measure between battery negative terminal post and a good clean ground on engine block (Fig. 5). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten battery negative cable attachment on engine block. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty battery negative cable. Note: If equipped with dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery. 5. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to starter housing. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery negative terminal post (Fig. 6). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, correct poor starter to engine block ground contact. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed on driver side battery only. 6. If equipped with dual battery system (diesel), connect positive lead of voltmeter to driver side battery positive cable clamp. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to passenger side battery positive terminal post. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten passenger side battery positive cable eyelet connection at driver side battery positive cable clamp bolt. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty passenger side battery positive cable.
  2. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in General Cummins
    Speed I hear it all the time how everyone is driving at the speed limit or faster on the interstates. Then throw a snide comment about my driving here in Idaho. Most people don't even have a clue about what Idaho highways are like or the road conditions we face out here. Let me get this out first. Most all speed limits in Idaho are 45-65 MPH period. The only places where the speed exceeds this is the two interstate highways (I84 and I90) that pass through the state. So for me to get to I90 to just drive fast its 4 hours 10 minute drive or if I went south to I84 its 2 hours and 12 minutes just so I can drive faster than 65 MPH. So the whole idea of driving fast is not happening in this part of the state of Idaho. As for the state of Idaho, there is no minimum speed limit in the state. But... If you holding up more than 3 vehicles you must yield to traffic. If you think this is slow, try city speed limits of 25 MPH and residential of 15 MPH and its radar enforced. Animals Another factor that everyone discounts is game animals crossing the highway. This occurs quite often and more times out of ten either causes vehicle damage or accident with oncoming traffic trying to avoid the animals in the highway. There have been a few cases of death from game animal accidents. Some parts of Idaho are open range so that is another factor of hitting a cow is devastating to a small car let alone a semi-truck. As for my truck I've had one occurrence of striking a deer at lower speeds thankfully, I was traveling slower other than that I would have done serious damage. Landslides & Rocks Since the mountain is constantly on the move from either animals or weather you will have from time to time a rock or landslide dump out on the highway. So traveling at the speed limit isn't always a great idea when you round the next corner to meet head on with a landslide or boulder on the road. Being I do drive cautiously around canyons and steep terrain I've been able to avoid many rocks falls. (Idaho 55 south of Cascade, ID) Weather The weather out here is very quick to change from one extreme to another. An old local saying is “If you don't like the weather wait 15 minutes or drive 15 miles.” For where I live it's about true. I can drive to Riggins, Idaho for work and be out of the snow and then turn around drive the 15 miles back home in be in foot deep snow when I pull in the driveway. Now with bad weather be it fog, snow or heavy rain you can be given a ticket for sliding off the pavement or losing control of your vehicle. So I'd advise slowing down in poor weather. Like below heavy fog, snow, and black ice is not something to drive fast on. As for my truck, it's never slid off the pavement. (US95 north of New Meadows, Idaho) (US95 north of New Meadows, Idaho) Volunteering I've been volunteering with Search & Rescue with Idaho County and Salmon River Rural Fire Department for many years now. I've seen many highway accidents with deaths and severe injuries. After being to a few of this kind of call out you tend to slow down giving you more buffer room for avoiding accidents. So I tend to drive slower than posted speed limits typically on average about 55-60 MPH. As for most vehicle accidents I've been to I've seen more accidents involving excessive speed. (US95 north of Riggins, Idaho) Towing As for towing my trailers I will not drive fast than 55-60 MPH. All ST tires are rated for 65 MPH maximum speed. There is no sense in running the trailer tire at redline speed or faster to just have a blowout. To this day 28 years of driving I've never experienced a sudden blow out on a vehicle or trailer. Claims of high MPG at high rate of speed I've got guys all the time to claim 20's MPG at 70-80 MPH speeds. Most of these I call BS on these claims. First off if your capable of hitting those kinds of MPG numbers at those at that speeds then at a lower speed you should be hitting the ball out of the park. More times out of ten the owner has oversize tires or changed wheel sizes and has an odometer that is way out of whack. If your going to post a claim of high MPG numbers I highly suggest you get an accurate odometer like a GPS and figure your MPG's from GPS distance and not your erred odometer. Most people that I challenge with this disappear because their numbers are typically way lower or there method of calculating MPG was erred. Like all my reports of MPG numbers are fully logged from 22k miles to current. I've got a full spreadsheet all mathed out and even in graph form. As for correction of odometer for my truck is exactly 0.5 MPH off so I've got both my GPS and ScanGauge II that give corrected odometer as well as the ScanGauge II giving correct MPG numbers. With an odometer, off by 0.5 MPH, you can be off roughly 20-30 miles in a tank of fuel this roughly translates to roughly 1 MPG error. Idaho Highways As you'll see here Idaho has very few Interstate highways and majority of 2 lane highways. Like said above all 2 lane highways out here range from 45-65 MPH. Now as for the Interstates they have been upgrade to 80 MPH. The blue dot is approximate location of where I live. It's roughly 2.5 hour drive to reach I84 and about 4 hours to reach I90 from where I live. So high speed travel is not really possible here. So, Please keep it to yourself when you going to post snide comments about how I drive in Idaho. Note: All photos are from right here in Idaho on Idaho highways or from Idaho vehicle owners.
  3. ScanGauge II Now here is a invaluable tool for your Dodge product. This works on all OBDII compliant vehicles. Not only does it scan for on board error codes, display and clear them for you. But its got a full trip computer. But this one can be calibrated for your truck. The trip computer is extremely accurate! It's even more accurate than the overhead computer in a Dodge! Then as shown in the picture above you can program the gauges to display live information from the ECM/PCM. No Dodge owner should be without this good little tool! Amazon Scan Gauge Link Mopar's Notes: Ok there is a few thing I see constantly asked. Q: Can I use the fuel pressure reading on the ScanGauge II? A: No. The ScanGauge II can only report the information provided by the PCM/ECM since there is no fuel pressure sensor or software on board the ECM there will not be a fuel pressure reading. ScanGauge II manual reports that only 10% of today's vehicles have a fuel pressure sensor! Q: Why is the MAP sensor reading so wild? A: There is a offset of voltage on the 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins that tends to produce this offset. I been told by 3rd Gen owners that ScanGauge II reports properly.
  4. Muffler Delete / Straight Piped Another simple enhancement that doesn't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states, a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just too loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel mileage. Basically, all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get a piece of 3" exhaust pipe and maybe a new set of clamps. Once you got the pipe have them expand the ends so they will fit over the existing pipe. So now when you do this you going to have to fight a little to get the old muffler and resonator off. I used a torch to heat the clamp spots up to get the muffler assembly off. Then slide in your new pipe and clamp it down. I've welded in some re-bar hanger to mount back in the rubber hanger on the frame to help hold the pipe up.
  5. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    High Volume Funnel Get a bottle of brake fluid from Wal-Mart. Use the brake fluid for your truck. Change out your brake fluid. Take notice there are two different sized necks you want the larger of the two if possible. The small neck won't work. Now just cut the bottom off the bottle carefully. Basically this is what you should have. A bottle with the bottom gone and the cap removed. Now it screws right into the valve cover on a 24 Valve Cummins. I've not tested it on other trucks but it works for me...
  6. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    Mechanical High Idle for All Cummins Trucks Here is another version of high idle you can produce for you dodge Cummins. A member over at Cummins Forum came to me with his version of high idle. Thank you WJBell for your information and allowing me to post here on my site... WJBell's High Idle Write Up Original Information is here. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/111278-mechanical-high-idle-bomb-completed.html Since seeing Mopar Mans high idle I've been wanting to do something like it. I live in California so I really don't need it but for cold morning warms up's it's kind of nice. And if I idle it for a long time I've heard you can cake up the valves or warp cylinders. So I checked with three different dealers in my area and they all wanted $100+ to program the stock high idle. What I really wanted was the PTO idle controlled through cruise control but not available for my 2001. So... I decided to make my own PTO idle. I looked through some different posts and a couple guys did it with a high idle solenoid from Chevy's with a Rochester carb. So I went to pick & Pull today and picked one up for $7 off of a late 70's early 80's truck. Then I went to Ace hardware and picked up some 1/16 steel cable, a cable end stop and a thing to slip over the cable to tie it down. The one guy I saw mounted it on his APPS to push the throttle open, like an extended stop screw for the throttle. I didn't want to leave my APPS cover off or hack it up so I looked where I could mount it where the pedal pulls the cable under the dash. It wouldn't fit behind the pedal lever but there was a place where I could mount it where it pulled the top of the pedal where the cable was. And there is a bolt there in perfect position to mount the existing bracket on the solenoid. All I had to do is hacksaw off part of the bracket and it fit perfect. So I got a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum roughly about 1 3/4" long and 3/4" wide and mounted it to the end piece of the solenoid, drilling through them both and securing it with one machine screw. Then on the other end where the cable comes through I got a short, 3/4" long bolt (not sure what size but something that will fit within the aluminum bracket) and drilled it out though the center. Then drilled the aluminum bracket a little smaller than the bolt and force threaded the bolt into the bracket. (poor mans tap & die. Hey it's aluminum!) So now the cable feeds in through the top of the bolt and you can fine tune the idle speed by tightening or backing out the bolt. So I ran the cable through, looped it around the pedal and tied it together with a 1/8" (can't remember what it's called) with an allen set screw to tighten it down. I already had a switch wired through a relay up in my overhead sunglasses compartment so I just wired it to the solenoid. Started the truck up, flipped the switch and tapped the throttle and idle went up to about 1400. Turned off the switch and it dropped to normal. The solenoid doesn't have enough power to raise the idle by itself, you have to tap the throttle. After some adjustments I got the high idle to right around 1100-1200. It's sweet. Start the truck, hit the switch and tap the throttle and you're at 1100 rpms. Turn off the switch and you're back to normal. There's no effect on the pedal, you can't feel any binding, etc. Works pretty sweet. Not bad for a couple hours work and under $20! I don't have 3 cylinder high idle but if I want that I'll just unplug three of the spark plugs. The part number for the solenoid is 1997461 and here's a list of cars it comes on. Hit your local pick & pull and you can pick one up for less than $10. 1977 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Monte Carlo : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Classic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Estate : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Impala Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Concours : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Caprice : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Oldsmobile : Full Size Oldsmobile (Rwd) : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : 98 Regency : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Custom Cruiser : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 Royale : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Luxury 98 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega Brougham : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega F85 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG
  7. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    Frantz Bypass Filter Here is a very good addon that every should consider doing on the vehicles (Gasoline or Diesel). The Frantz Filter is a depth type by-pass filter in which oil from the engine flows very slowly through a dense filter media and is thoroughly cleaned. Depth filtration (as opposed to surface filtration) is universally recognized as the most efficient. The design of the Frantz Oil Cleaner provides 4.4" of filter media depth through which the oil must pass. No other filter design approaches this media depth and resulting efficiency. Oil enters the filter through the center fitting, flows upward through the center tube and then downward through the filter media. As the clean oil leaves the filter media, it passes through a fine wire screen assembly to the outlet fitting. A 1/16" restrictor orifice is placed in the inlet fitting to control the flow rate through the filter. Because of the low velocity of the oil passing through the dense tissue, it is easily separated from the contaminant particles which are readily disposed of by changing the filter element. The Frantz Oil filter/cleaner protects every precision part of your engine against wear by removing the smallest harmful particles as well as up to six ounces of water. Mopar's Notes: Update! - Mounting Configuration I found out that it much better to mount the can upside down. This will make filter changes less messy. The thing is when it was mounted can side up then when you pull the can upwards to remove the oil would run out everywhere making a mess. With it hung upside down the can holds all the oil and only the tube will drip just a bit. As you can see in the pictures I made a bracket that mounts the filter on the battery.
  8. Flushing the Coolant System Draining Coolant On a cool engine (less than 140*F) remove the radiator cap. Now at the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain valve on the radiator. The drain turns 1/2 turn then pulls outward slightly then continues to turn to drain. To drain the overflow bottom it just easier to remove the hose from the radiator neck and then pull the overflow bottle upwards from the fan shroud. Flushing Cooling System Flushing the cooling system you'll need to remove the thermostat. There are three 8mm head bolts holding the cover in place. Once the cover is removed you can lift the thermostat out. Now replace the thermostat cover and the upper hose. The upper hose should only be hooked to the thermostat housing. This will direct the water away from the fan for you. Now using a garden hose at full flow you can place it in the radiator fill neck. Start the truck. Allow the water to flow till all solid debris and coolant color is gone. The water should come out clear. You can lightly rev the engine to pump water forceful for bursts. This will help push water through the heater core flushing it as well. Take notice the radiator is removed in this flushing. Filling With Coolant Now as for coolant, our trucks came factory with green coolant. You may use green, yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Just remember "Universal Yellow" typically can be mixed with green or orange coolants in an emergency. NEVER mix green and orange coolants! If you are going to switch coolant make sure to flush the system thoroughly. I typically will park the truck on a nose down slope to attempt to get water out of the system. Cummins cooling system holds 6 gallons typically there is roughly a gallon trapped in the block. So the first gallon goes in full strength. All other coolant is mixed 50/50 before using after the first gallon. As for mixing coolant and water. Most suggest distilled water be used. Now back during the flushing, I had removed thermostat now you can fill the entire system till its right to the top of the block. This allows you to fill without having to burp the system later. Now once the block is full to the top you can install a new thermostat (suggested) or re-use your old thermostat. Re-assemble your thermostat housing. Make sure to use anti-seize on the thermostat bolts. Re-assemble your upper hose. Now finish topping off the cooling system with mixed coolant. Make sure to fill the overflow bottle to the FULL mark. Coolant Color & Condition I'm going to say don't open the radiator cap and look and say, "Yep it's still (whatever color) its still good." I've heard this a million times. If a customer is willing I drain their radiator and show them typically the first gallon comes out rusty brown, then may change back to coolant color slowly as it drains. What happens is every time you start your engine your passing high current flow through the block and tends to change the pH of the coolant just like changing a battery. So over time coolant will shift from pH of 7 and typically shift corrosive. Lime scale builds up typically is from not the water but from dissolving metals in the cooling system from the corrosive coolant. So don't get hung up on the idea of long interval coolants like HOAT or distilled water will protect you from scale build up. You can still get scale build up with distilled water or premixed coolants. Simply put if the coolant starts to darken in color it already failed. Personal Results As for my truck the first 150k miles was on green coolants. I was flushing the system every 30k miles or so. I will clearly state I've NEVER used distilled water in my truck. I've used either the irrigation water which is from a creek behind the house or from the well that is here on the property. No water here is treated or chlorinated. I'm now using "Universal Yellow Coolant" typically found as WalMart SuperTech, Prestone, and even Napa coolants. I've never had an overheat once. I've never had a heater core plug up. No limescale build up. 100k miles and 5 years.... Updated pictures... This is my cooling system after 9 years and 180K miles now... 2015 (13 years later) and 255k miles later.... Using Universal Yellow Coolants. Still no scale build up or cooling issues. This batch was extended to 70,000 roughly and 2 years. 350k miles 07/20/2018. Coolant change with NAPA Extended Life. July 2019 - 385k miles and replaced the oil cooler gasket. As you can see after 17 years of service and using tap water (well water) or creek water like I have there is zero scale build up yet. View full Cummins article
  9. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Cooling
    Flushing the Coolant System Draining Coolant On a cool engine (less than 140*F) remove the radiator cap. Now at the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain valve on the radiator. The drain turns 1/2 turn then pulls outward slightly then continues to turn to drain. To drain the overflow bottom it just easier to remove the hose from the radiator neck and then pull the overflow bottle upwards from the fan shroud. Flushing Cooling System Flushing the cooling system you'll need to remove the thermostat. There are three 8mm head bolts holding the cover in place. Once the cover is removed you can lift the thermostat out. Now replace the thermostat cover and the upper hose. The upper hose should only be hooked to the thermostat housing. This will direct the water away from the fan for you. Now using a garden hose at full flow you can place it in the radiator fill neck. Start the truck. Allow the water to flow till all solid debris and coolant color is gone. The water should come out clear. You can lightly rev the engine to pump water forceful for bursts. This will help push water through the heater core flushing it as well. Take notice the radiator is removed in this flushing. Filling With Coolant Now as for coolant, our trucks came factory with green coolant. You may use green, yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Just remember "Universal Yellow" typically can be mixed with green or orange coolants in an emergency. NEVER mix green and orange coolants! If you are going to switch coolant make sure to flush the system thoroughly. I typically will park the truck on a nose down slope to attempt to get water out of the system. Cummins cooling system holds 6 gallons typically there is roughly a gallon trapped in the block. So the first gallon goes in full strength. All other coolant is mixed 50/50 before using after the first gallon. As for mixing coolant and water. Most suggest distilled water be used. Now back during the flushing, I had removed thermostat now you can fill the entire system till its right to the top of the block. This allows you to fill without having to burp the system later. Now once the block is full to the top you can install a new thermostat (suggested) or re-use your old thermostat. Re-assemble your thermostat housing. Make sure to use anti-seize on the thermostat bolts. Re-assemble your upper hose. Now finish topping off the cooling system with mixed coolant. Make sure to fill the overflow bottle to the FULL mark. Coolant Color & Condition I'm going to say don't open the radiator cap and look and say, "Yep it's still (whatever color) its still good." I've heard this a million times. If a customer is willing I drain their radiator and show them typically the first gallon comes out rusty brown, then may change back to coolant color slowly as it drains. What happens is every time you start your engine your passing high current flow through the block and tends to change the pH of the coolant just like changing a battery. So over time coolant will shift from pH of 7 and typically shift corrosive. Lime scale builds up typically is from not the water but from dissolving metals in the cooling system from the corrosive coolant. So don't get hung up on the idea of long interval coolants like HOAT or distilled water will protect you from scale build up. You can still get scale build up with distilled water or premixed coolants. Simply put if the coolant starts to darken in color it already failed. Personal Results As for my truck the first 150k miles was on green coolants. I was flushing the system every 30k miles or so. I will clearly state I've NEVER used distilled water in my truck. I've used either the irrigation water which is from a creek behind the house or from the well that is here on the property. No water here is treated or chlorinated. I'm now using "Universal Yellow Coolant" typically found as WalMart SuperTech, Prestone, and even Napa coolants. I've never had an overheat once. I've never had a heater core plug up. No limescale build up. 100k miles and 5 years.... Updated pictures... This is my cooling system after 9 years and 180K miles now... 2015 (13 years later) and 255k miles later.... Using Universal Yellow Coolants. Still no scale build up or cooling issues. This batch was extended to 70,000 roughly and 2 years. 350k miles 07/20/2018. Coolant change with NAPA Extended Life. July 2019 - 385k miles and replaced the oil cooler gasket. As you can see after 17 years of service and using tap water (well water) or creek water like I have there is zero scale build up yet.
  10. CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus Description The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time. Multiplexing is a system that enables the transmission of several messages over a single channel or circuit. Many Chrysler vehicles use this principle for communication between the various microprocessor based electronic control modules. Many of the electronic control modules in a vehicle require information from the same sensing device. In the past, if information from one sensing device was required by several controllers, a wire from each controller needed to be connected in parallel to that sensor. In addition, each controller utilizing analog sensors required an Analog/Digital (A/D) converter in order to “read“ these sensor inputs. Multiplexing reduces wire harness complexity, the sensor current loads, and controller hardware because each sensing device is connected to only one controller, which reads and distributes the sensor information to the other controllers over the data bus. Also, because each controller on the data bus can access the controller sensor inputs to every other controller on the data bus, more function, and feature capabilities are possible. In addition to reducing wire harness complexity, component sensor current loads and controller hardware, multiplexing offers a diagnostic advantage. A multiplex system allows the information flowing between controllers to be monitored using a diagnostic scan tool. The Chrysler system allows an electronic control module to broadcast message data out onto the bus where all other electronic control modules can “hear” the messages that are being sent. When a module hears a message on the data bus that it requires, it relays that message to its microprocessor. Each module ignores the messages on the data bus that are being sent to other electronic control modules. With a diagnostic scan tool connected into the CCD circuit, a technician is able to observe many of the electronic control module function and message outputs while; at the same time, controlling many of the sensor message inputs. The CCD data bus, along with the use of a diagnostic scan tool and a logic based approach to test procedures, as found in the Diagnostic Procedures manuals, allows the trained automotive technician to more easily, accurately and efficiently diagnose the many complex and integrated electronic functions and features found in today’s vehicles. Operation The CCD data bus system was designed to run at a 7812.5 baud rate (or 7812.5 bits per second). In order to successfully transmit and receive binary messages over the CCD data bus, the system requires the following: Bus (+) and Bus (–) Circuits CCD Chips in Each Electronic Control Module Bus Bias and Termination Bus Messaging Bus Message Coding Following are additional details of each of the above system requirements. Bus Circuits The two wires (sometimes referred to as the “twisted pair”) that comprise the CCD data bus are the D1 circuit [Bus (+)], and the D2 circuit [Bus (–)]. The "D" in D1 and D2 identify these as diagnostic circuits. Transmission and receipt of binary messages on the CCD data bus are accomplished by cycling the voltage differential between the Bus (+) and Bus (–) circuits. The two data bus wires are twisted together in order to shield the wires from the effects of any Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI) from switched voltage sources. An induced EMI voltage can be generated in any wire by a nearby switched voltage or switched ground circuit. By twisting the data bus wires together, the induced voltage spike (either up or down) affects both wires equally. Since both wires are affected equally, a voltage differential still exists between the Bus (+) and Bus (–) circuits, and the data bus messages can still be broadcast or received. The correct specification for data bus wire twisting is one turn for every 44.45 millimeters (1 3⁄4 inches) of wire. CCD Chips In order for an electronic control module to communicate with the CCD data bus, it must have a CCD chip (Fig. 5). The CCD chip contains a differential transmitter/receiver (or transceiver), which is used to send and receive messages. Each module is wired in parallel to the data bus through its CCD chip. The differential transceiver sends messages by using two current drivers: one current source driver, and one current sink driver. The current drivers are matched and allow 0.006 ampere to flow through the data bus circuits. When the transceiver drivers are turned On, the Bus (+) voltage increases slightly, and the Bus (–) voltage decreases slightly. By cycling the drivers On and Off, the CCD chip causes the voltage on the data bus circuit to fluctuate to reflect the message. Once a message is broadcast over the CCD data bus, all electronic control modules on the data bus have the ability to receive it through their CCD chip. Reception of CCD messages is also carried out by the transceiver in the CCD chip. The transceiver monitors the voltage on the data bus for any fluctuations. When data bus voltage fluctuations are detected, they are interpreted by the transceiver as binary messages and sent to the electronic control module’s microprocessor. Bus Bias And Termination The voltage network used by the CCD data bus to transmit messages requires both bias and termination. At least one electronic control module on the data bus must provide a voltage source for the CCD data bus network known as bus bias, and there must be at least one bus termination point for the data bus circuit to be complete. However, while bias and termination are both required for data bus operation, they both do not have to be within the same electronic control module. The CCD data bus is biased to approximately 2.5 volts. With each of the electronic control modules wired in parallel to the data bus, all modules utilize the same bus bias. Therefore, based upon vehicle options, the data bus can accommodate two or twenty electronic control modules without affecting bus voltage. The power supplied to the data bus is known as bus biasing. Bus bias is provided through a series circuit. To properly bias the data bus circuits, a 5 volt supply is provided through a 13 kilohm resistor to the Bus (–) circuit (Fig. 6). Voltage from the Bus (–) circuit flows through a 120 ohm termination resistor to the Bus (+) circuit. The Bus (+) circuit is grounded through another 13 kilohm resistor. While at least one termination resistor is required for the system to operate, most Chrysler systems use two. The second termination resistor serves as a backup (Fig. 7). The termination resistor provides a path for the bus bias voltage. Without a termination point, voltage biasing would not occur. Voltage would go to 5 volts on one bus wire and 0 volts on the other bus wire. The voltage drop through the termination resistor creates 2.51 volts on Bus (–), and 2.49 volts on Bus (+). The voltage difference between the two circuits is 0.02 volts. When the data bus voltage differential is a steady 0.02 volts, the CCD system is considered “idle.” When no input is received from any module and the ignition switch is in the Off position for a pre-programmed length of time, the bus data becomes inactive or enters the ”sleep mode.” Electronic control modules that provide bus bias can be programmed to ”wake up” the data bus and become active upon receiving any predetermined input or when the ignition switch is turned to the On position. Bus Messaging The electronic control modules used in the CCD data bus system contain microprocessors. Digital signals are the means by which microprocessors operate internally and communicate messages to other microprocessors. Digital signals are limited to two states, voltage high or voltage low, corresponding to either a one or a zero. Unlike conventional binary code, the CCD data bus systems translate a small voltage difference as a one (1), and a larger voltage difference as a zero (0). The use of the 0 and 1 is referred to as binary coding. Each binary number is called a bit, and eight bits make up a byte. For example: 01011101 represents a message. The controllers in the multiplex system are able to send thousands of these bytes strung together to communicate a variety of messages. Through the use of binary data transmission, all electronic control modules on the data bus can communicate with each other. The microprocessors in the CCD data bus system translate the binary messages into Hexadecimal Code (or Hex Code). The hex code is the means by which microprocessors communicate and interpret messages. When fault codes are received by the DRBIII scan tool, they are translated into text for display on the DRBIII screen. Although not displayed by the DRBIII for Body Systems, hex codes are shown by the DRBIII for Engine System faults. When the microprocessor signals the transceiver in the CCD chip to broadcast a message, the transceiver turns the current drivers On and Off, which cycles the voltage on the CCD data bus circuits to correspond to the message. At idle, the CCD system recognizes the 0.02 voltage differential as a binary bit 1. When the current drivers are actuated, the voltage differential from idle must increase by 0.02 volt for the CCD system to recognize a binary bit 0. The nominal voltage differential for a 0 bit is 0.100 volts. However, data bus voltage differentials can range anywhere between 0.02 and 0.120 volts. Bus Failure The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures for details on how to diagnose these faults using a DRBIII scan tool. Bus Failure Visual Symptoms & Diagnosis The following visible symptoms or customer complaints, alone or in combination, may indicate a CCD data bus failure: Airbag Indicator Lamp and Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated Instrument Cluster Gauges (All) Inoperative No Compass Mini-Trip Computer (CMTC) Operation Wiring Diagrams
  11. CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus Description The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time. Multiplexing is a system that enables the transmission of several messages over a single channel or circuit. Many Chrysler vehicles use this principle for communication between the various microprocessor based electronic control modules. Many of the electronic control modules in a vehicle require information from the same sensing device. In the past, if information from one sensing device was required by several controllers, a wire from each controller needed to be connected in parallel to that sensor. In addition, each controller utilizing analog sensors required an Analog/Digital (A/D) converter in order to “read“ these sensor inputs. Multiplexing reduces wire harness complexity, the sensor current loads, and controller hardware because each sensing device is connected to only one controller, which reads and distributes the sensor information to the other controllers over the data bus. Also, because each controller on the data bus can access the controller sensor inputs to every other controller on the data bus, more function, and feature capabilities are possible. In addition to reducing wire harness complexity, component sensor current loads and controller hardware, multiplexing offers a diagnostic advantage. A multiplex system allows the information flowing between controllers to be monitored using a diagnostic scan tool. The Chrysler system allows an electronic control module to broadcast message data out onto the bus where all other electronic control modules can “hear” the messages that are being sent. When a module hears a message on the data bus that it requires, it relays that message to its microprocessor. Each module ignores the messages on the data bus that are being sent to other electronic control modules. With a diagnostic scan tool connected into the CCD circuit, a technician is able to observe many of the electronic control module function and message outputs while; at the same time, controlling many of the sensor message inputs. The CCD data bus, along with the use of a diagnostic scan tool and a logic based approach to test procedures, as found in the Diagnostic Procedures manuals, allows the trained automotive technician to more easily, accurately and efficiently diagnose the many complex and integrated electronic functions and features found in today’s vehicles. Operation The CCD data bus system was designed to run at a 7812.5 baud rate (or 7812.5 bits per second). In order to successfully transmit and receive binary messages over the CCD data bus, the system requires the following: Bus (+) and Bus (–) Circuits CCD Chips in Each Electronic Control Module Bus Bias and Termination Bus Messaging Bus Message Coding Following are additional details of each of the above system requirements. Bus Circuits The two wires (sometimes referred to as the “twisted pair”) that comprise the CCD data bus are the D1 circuit [Bus (+)], and the D2 circuit [Bus (–)]. The "D" in D1 and D2 identify these as diagnostic circuits. Transmission and receipt of binary messages on the CCD data bus are accomplished by cycling the voltage differential between the Bus (+) and Bus (–) circuits. The two data bus wires are twisted together in order to shield the wires from the effects of any Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI) from switched voltage sources. An induced EMI voltage can be generated in any wire by a nearby switched voltage or switched ground circuit. By twisting the data bus wires together, the induced voltage spike (either up or down) affects both wires equally. Since both wires are affected equally, a voltage differential still exists between the Bus (+) and Bus (–) circuits, and the data bus messages can still be broadcast or received. The correct specification for data bus wire twisting is one turn for every 44.45 millimeters (1 3⁄4 inches) of wire. CCD Chips In order for an electronic control module to communicate with the CCD data bus, it must have a CCD chip (Fig. 5). The CCD chip contains a differential transmitter/receiver (or transceiver), which is used to send and receive messages. Each module is wired in parallel to the data bus through its CCD chip. The differential transceiver sends messages by using two current drivers: one current source driver, and one current sink driver. The current drivers are matched and allow 0.006 ampere to flow through the data bus circuits. When the transceiver drivers are turned On, the Bus (+) voltage increases slightly, and the Bus (–) voltage decreases slightly. By cycling the drivers On and Off, the CCD chip causes the voltage on the data bus circuit to fluctuate to reflect the message. Once a message is broadcast over the CCD data bus, all electronic control modules on the data bus have the ability to receive it through their CCD chip. Reception of CCD messages is also carried out by the transceiver in the CCD chip. The transceiver monitors the voltage on the data bus for any fluctuations. When data bus voltage fluctuations are detected, they are interpreted by the transceiver as binary messages and sent to the electronic control module’s microprocessor. Bus Bias And Termination The voltage network used by the CCD data bus to transmit messages requires both bias and termination. At least one electronic control module on the data bus must provide a voltage source for the CCD data bus network known as bus bias, and there must be at least one bus termination point for the data bus circuit to be complete. However, while bias and termination are both required for data bus operation, they both do not have to be within the same electronic control module. The CCD data bus is biased to approximately 2.5 volts. With each of the electronic control modules wired in parallel to the data bus, all modules utilize the same bus bias. Therefore, based upon vehicle options, the data bus can accommodate two or twenty electronic control modules without affecting bus voltage. The power supplied to the data bus is known as bus biasing. Bus bias is provided through a series circuit. To properly bias the data bus circuits, a 5 volt supply is provided through a 13 kilohm resistor to the Bus (–) circuit (Fig. 6). Voltage from the Bus (–) circuit flows through a 120 ohm termination resistor to the Bus (+) circuit. The Bus (+) circuit is grounded through another 13 kilohm resistor. While at least one termination resistor is required for the system to operate, most Chrysler systems use two. The second termination resistor serves as a backup (Fig. 7). The termination resistor provides a path for the bus bias voltage. Without a termination point, voltage biasing would not occur. Voltage would go to 5 volts on one bus wire and 0 volts on the other bus wire. The voltage drop through the termination resistor creates 2.51 volts on Bus (–), and 2.49 volts on Bus (+). The voltage difference between the two circuits is 0.02 volts. When the data bus voltage differential is a steady 0.02 volts, the CCD system is considered “idle.” When no input is received from any module and the ignition switch is in the Off position for a pre-programmed length of time, the bus data becomes inactive or enters the ”sleep mode.” Electronic control modules that provide bus bias can be programmed to ”wake up” the data bus and become active upon receiving any predetermined input or when the ignition switch is turned to the On position. Bus Messaging The electronic control modules used in the CCD data bus system contain microprocessors. Digital signals are the means by which microprocessors operate internally and communicate messages to other microprocessors. Digital signals are limited to two states, voltage high or voltage low, corresponding to either a one or a zero. Unlike conventional binary code, the CCD data bus systems translate a small voltage difference as a one (1), and a larger voltage difference as a zero (0). The use of the 0 and 1 is referred to as binary coding. Each binary number is called a bit, and eight bits make up a byte. For example: 01011101 represents a message. The controllers in the multiplex system are able to send thousands of these bytes strung together to communicate a variety of messages. Through the use of binary data transmission, all electronic control modules on the data bus can communicate with each other. The microprocessors in the CCD data bus system translate the binary messages into Hexadecimal Code (or Hex Code). The hex code is the means by which microprocessors communicate and interpret messages. When fault codes are received by the DRBIII scan tool, they are translated into text for display on the DRBIII screen. Although not displayed by the DRBIII for Body Systems, hex codes are shown by the DRBIII for Engine System faults. When the microprocessor signals the transceiver in the CCD chip to broadcast a message, the transceiver turns the current drivers On and Off, which cycles the voltage on the CCD data bus circuits to correspond to the message. At idle, the CCD system recognizes the 0.02 voltage differential as a binary bit 1. When the current drivers are actuated, the voltage differential from idle must increase by 0.02 volt for the CCD system to recognize a binary bit 0. The nominal voltage differential for a 0 bit is 0.100 volts. However, data bus voltage differentials can range anywhere between 0.02 and 0.120 volts. Bus Failure The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures for details on how to diagnose these faults using a DRBIII scan tool. Bus Failure Visual Symptoms & Diagnosis The following visible symptoms or customer complaints, alone or in combination, may indicate a CCD data bus failure: Airbag Indicator Lamp and Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated Instrument Cluster Gauges (All) Inoperative No Compass Mini-Trip Computer (CMTC) Operation Wiring Diagrams View full Cummins article
  12. Jacobs Exhaust Brake This is probably the most used piece of equipment on my truck. I use the Jacobs exhaust brake to do about 90% of all my braking on the highway, city streets, and off-road. My service brake pads are still factory pads and I've got over 180K+ on the clock. The brake shoes have got 25% left. It's a vast savings to the brakes. I finally replaced my brake pads all the way around the the truck at 187K. I didn't need to replace rotors just had the turned. Now for the next 200K miles. Sorry to say the Jacobs Exhaust Brake doesn't exactly has the diesel rumble when you use this style of exhaust brake. But you do get a hissing noise from the exhaust pipe. There is a bonus to the Jacobs exhaust brake. You can active it on a cold winter morning and get the pyrometer well above 350°F within a few seconds after starting it in the morning. If you use my high idle mod you can warm up a engine even quicker. I purchased the Jacobs Exhaust Brake from a Dodge Dealer in Lewiston, Idaho for $800.00 Here is a few more videos... Watch them... I sub titled them with the function I'm doing. You'll find out I rarely ever touch the service brake pedal and why my stock brake pads lasted to 187K miles. In the first video here is coming to a stop from highway speeds of 55-60 MPH using mostly my Jacobs Exhaust Brake. You'll see the subtitles of me gearing down and using the Jacobs exhaust brake (or jaking). This video is of leaving the mountain up around McCall, ID which is a 7% grade that is very windy with turn marked for 25 MPH. You'll see how I manage to keep control of the vehicle speed without using any brake pedal all but heavy use of the Jacobs exhaust brake. It takes a little bit of time to learn how to use you Jacobs exhaust brake as a primary braking unit. There is other thing to consider is your following distance and how fast you can decelerate using only the Jacobs exhaust brake. Once you learn how fast and how much braking force a Jacobs exhaust brake has by itself combined with your service brakes they are a wonderful duo. You'll have enough braking force to actually bark the rear tires coming to a stop. Another trick is to add a second switch to your transmission stick so you have the switch right there with your thumb. If hooked up right you can have instant braking power from the Jacobs exhaust brake at the flip of a switch without the 3 second wait.
  13. Brake Fluid Change A brake fluid change is required every 30K miles. This is to change out fluid but to flush out debris and water contamination. But I do suggest about every 60K to 100K miles you break down the calipers and wheel cylinder and inspect for debris and rust. The reason why you need to bleed the brake system often is that brake fluid is hydroscopic absorbs water) and reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid. So the next time your trying to hold back the heavy load on a steep grade and the brake heat up the brake fluid will start to boil and air bubbles will form. Once this occurs brake failure can and will happen! Wore out and water loaded brake fluid also causes the rubber parts to degrade and metal parts to rust. So this is why you need to bleed the system often and also need to inspect for damage parts and debris. Now bleeding will purge out the wore out fluid but it will not remove debris from the bottom of the wheel cylinders and calipers. Bleeding the system is rather easy to do and only requires you have ample amount of DOT3 brake fluid available. Now since most people don't have a buddy or wife that is will to help bleed the brake out you can build a bleed jar. Basically its a mayonnaise jar and piece of vinyl tubing. Poke a hole in the jar lid and slide the tubing into the jar till it touches the bottom of the jar. Add a small amount of brake fluid to the jar to cover the end of the tube. Start at the farthest wheel. (Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front Left) Then crack the bleeder fitting loose. Now start pumping the pedal. Engine does not need to be running to bleed the brake system. Press the pedal down firmly to the floor then release slowly to keep from sucking the fluid back from the jar. Keep checking the master cylinder reservoir. When nearly empty refill the reservoir and then move onto the other wheels. These go fast! Now all you got to do is bleed each wheel now till the fluid clears in the tubing. As you can see the fluid does get rather dark and nasty looking like old engine oil in a matter of 28K miles. But after a completed brake fluid change the fluid looks like honey colored fluid. Now I did suggest a complete tear down of the brake parts every 60K to 100K miles. I ran into several issues now with debris, dried brake fluid, binding of pistons, etc. This can all be prevented by just removing the calipers and wheel cylinders and dissembling, cleaning, inspection, re-assemble and bleed. Calipers watch for binding pistons and debris in between the weather seal and the piston seal. But to check the pistons remove the caliper and dissemble, wash and dry them. With all seals removed the piston should fall to the bottom of the cylinder without force. If not take some fine sandpaper and lightly polish the pistons to remove any dried brake fluid or caked on debris. Check the piston often. Don't over do it! Also check the slide pins at both ends of the caliper and re-grease as needed. On from caliper be sure to check the piston seals if there has been any debris behind the weather boot. Take notice to the picture below. There is chunks of rubber missing from the seal this is cause from debris being caught between the piston and the seal. Pistons and seal can be purchased only through a Dodge dealer but they are not expensive. With rear drum brakes basically remove the pins, rubber boots, and piston cups from the wheel cylinder and visually inspect the wheel cylinder for rust build up in the bottom. Check all rubber parts for damage. Replace and damaged parts including springs and other hardware.
  14. We had a long running thread about the Raptor pump and one guy found the seals and bearing, brushes everything to rebuild it.
  15. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    Valve Lash Adjustment The first thing you need to do is pull the valve covers off the engine. You'll need a socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolts till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve covers will come off. Just lift the 6 covers straight up. Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) using the timing pin found under the injection pump. Mopar's Notes Once TDC found using the timing pin mark the damper and the gear case in one spot denoting TDC. There is a reason for this... Now check the rocker arms on number 1 cylinder. both should be loose at this point. If not check both rockers on cylinder number 6. If cylinder number 6 is loose then your 360° out on the crank, so rotate another 360° till you line up on your TDC marks again. WARNING! Be sure that the timing pin is pulled out of the gear before rotating the engine. Otherwise damage to the timing pin will occur! Here is the valve clearance measurement Valve Clearance Exhaust Valves 0.020 Inches Intake Valves 0.010 Inches But if you followed my suggestion above now you wouldn't need to mess with that pin anymore! But for making things simple we'll start at TDC of number 1 cylinder with both rockers loose. Step 1 Cylinder Number Exhaust Valves 1,3,5 Intake Valves 1,2,4 now rotate the engine crank 360° again so now cylinder number 6 rockers should be loose. Using your new timing marks on the damper. Step 2 Cylinder Number Exhaust Valves 2,4,6 Intake Valves 3,5,6 Now reassemble the valve covers.
  16. Error Codes (Flash Codes) Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes When the check engine light comes on and stays on (after start-up), this indicates that a code (or codes) has been stored in memory. To retrieve this information for purpose of troubleshooting, cycle the ignition switch ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within five seconds. The check engine lamp will then flash the DTC(s). Each code, if there is more than one, will be preceded by a 4 second pause, to distinguish it from the previous code. An example of a DTC would be as follows: * Lamp on for 2 seconds, then turns off. * Lamp flashes 4 times, then pauses, then flashes 1 more time. * Lamp pauses 4 seconds, then flashes 4 times. * Lamp flashes 7 times. The two DTC's displayed, following the two second pause, were 41 and 47. Whenever the malfunction indicator is operated, as many DTC's as are in memory will be displayed. At the end of the sequence, it will flash 55, which indicates it is the end of the stored codes. Mopar1973Man Note: Its still suggested to used a code reader. These errors are very general in description. A normal code reader will show more information. Like error code 43 Ignition coil circuit could be a misfire code (P0300 to P0310) when a error code reader is used you can see the cylinder number. Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes When the problem has been sorted out and repaired, you will have to erase the DTC(s) from memory to shut off the CHECK ENGINE light. The proper way to erase is with the DRBII scan tool, or equivalent. If you do not have access to this tool you will have to take the vehicle to a shop that does. If the cause for the blown trouble code is indeed repaired, the memory will automatically be cleared by the engine controller after 50 start-ups. Mopar1973Man Note: Better explanation at this link. Diagnostic Trouble Code Check Engine Light DRB Scan Tool Display Description of DTC 11 No No crank reference signal at PCM No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. 12 No None Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected with the last 50 key on cycles. 13 Yes No change in MAP from start to run No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the atmospheric pressure reading at start up. 14 Yes MAP sensor voltage too high or too low. MAP sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 15 Yes No vehicle speed sensor signal No vehicle distance (speed) sensor detected during road load conditions. 17 No Engine is cold to long Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel. (Faulty thermostat) 21 Yes O² sensor at center Neither rich or lean condition detected from the oxygen sensor input. 22 Yes ECT sensor voltage to high or too low. .Engine Coolant Temperature sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 23 Yes IAT sensor voltage to high or too low Intake Air Temperature sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 24 Yes TPS sensor voltage to high or too low Throttle Position Sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 25 Yes Idle Air Control motor circuits A shorted condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. 27 No Injector control circuits (1-8) Injector (1-8) output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. 31 Yes EVAP solenoid circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the EVAP solenoid circuit. 32 Yes EGR solenoid circuit EGR failure An open or shorted condition detected in the Exhaust Gas Recirculation solenoid circuit. A mechanical problem found in the EGR system. (Vacuum leak, defective EGR valve, plugged EGP tube, etc.) 33 No A/C clutch relay circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the Air Conditioning clutch circuit. 34 No Speed control circuits Speed control switch always high or low An open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum and vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input above or below acceptable voltage. 37 Yes Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit Trans temp to high or too low An open or shorted condition detected in the CKT solenoid circuit. Voltage to high or too low at the trans temp sensor. 41 Yes Generator field not switch properly An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit. 42 No Auto Shutdown Relay control circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the ASD relay circuit. 43 Yes Ignition coil circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the EVAP solenoid circuit. (Mis-fire code) 44 No Battery temp sensor volt out of limits An open or shorted condition detected in the engine coolant sensor circuit or a problem exist in the PCM's battery temp voltage circuit. 45 No Trans overdrive solenoid circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the trans overdrive solenoid circuit. 46 Yes Charging system voltage too high Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation. 47 Yes Charging system voltage too low Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation. 51 Yes System lean adap at rich limit Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition. 52 Yes System rich adap at lean limit Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio condition. 53 No Internal PCM failure PCM failure SPI (Serial Peripheral Interface) PCM internal fault detected. PCM internal fault detected. 54 No No cam sync signal at PCM No fuel sync (camshaft signal) detected during engine cranking. 55 No Not display on DRB scan tool A DTC #55 is used to end all DTC messages. This code indicates a completion of all DTC's displayed on the Check Engine Light. 62 No PCM Failure SRI miles not stored Unsuccessful attempt to update SRI (service reminder indicator) miles in the EEPROM. 63 No PCM Failure EEPROM write denial Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM.
  17. I know there is a thread on here from way back about 2 years where we discussed about Raptor fuel pump and seals some one found all this stuff and now I would like to look into it.
  18. Something to be aware of. If you got to do APPS reset too much you have the first signs of a bad alternator. All the APPS reset does is allow the ECM to see the voltage at idle and WOT. So as for your question about reset again for the pump you shouldn't have too.
  19. As long as the high idle software is enabled shouldn't matter which programmer or module you use.
  20. Yeah there is... That little SUV could of slowed down and just stayed in the right lane and never lost control. I've watch tons of this kind of Youtubes 99% of all accidents are people traveling to fast for conditions. So here is mister Semi driver minding his own business, here comes "I'm in Hurry SUV Driver" bouncing off the other delievery truck and into the path of mister Semi. I still see out here with completely snow cover or black ice highways watching little cars attempting to hold speed limit.
  21. Lost Valley Reservoir Summer of 2015
  22. Still after washing I re-coat the terminal with engine oil again. There is only two material that I know of that sulphric acid will not eat. Glass and plastic. Plastic is made from what? Petroleum. Grease works but you'll end up with the grease on your shirt or arm while working on your truck. Engine oil will fade away leaving a thin film that prevents acid from oxidizing the terminals. Take notice to the picture above the positive terminal is black and got corrosion blooms on the copper and steel. This is a sign of acid contact and oxidizing the metals. Like lead oxide is that black coating. It's resistive to current flow typically you know by touch the terminals they could be warm to hot to the touch.
  23. Secret... Lightly coat all lead terminal surface with engine oil not grease. 13 years later still like new... What I typically see roll in my shop...
  24. I would park that truck till you can verify the fuel pressure. I just got done rescuing a truck yesterday where his fuel pump would just stop pumping doing exactly what you say low power and white smoke. You need that fuel pressure gauge like now! Do you have a error code reader that can reset codes? You might consider reseting the codes and re-test drive it again and see if the codes are real for the APPS. Might have to ohm test between the ECM and APPS. Again jump over to the error code page and do the diagnostics to verify. Yeah you can unplug the wiring and hook up stock to see if the P0237 code stays away. Grid heater relays get there ground from PDC then to the battery ground as seen in the wiring map.
  25. Cobbled up it sounds like. Grid heater delete is going to make it hard starting and keeping it running. Fuel pressure is fairly low in the 1st gens like about 6-7 PSI tops. I know Cowboy should be in later tonight and give some more feedback on this.

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