Mopar1973Man

So wouldn't just upgrading be the better idea? Kind of like the parts you put on the truck. So how about the camper eh?

It will do that for internal lighting and radio.

Yeah but the voltage will be too low for the battery. 13.2 to 14.5 is what you want not 12.0 out of ATX power supply.

Also while the sensor is out to check the tone wheel for placement. One of members had a similar problem had a bearing fail in the differential and the tone ring shifted out of view of the sensor. Be aware the sensor most likely will not come out without breaking. Make sure to spray plenty of PB blaster or WD-40 to help it but if the crude and mud is pack down there the o-ring will hang up. So carefully pry little pieces and break the off till you get the sensor body out. Been there, done that...

Exactly. My converter is in the background of the picture. The pendant on the mini panel on the left is the controller for storage, normal or boost mode. The cutoff switch allows me to cut all power to the 12V circuit without going to the fuse panel or the batteries. Converter is wired to the batteries keeping the charged all during storage. I just select storage mode on the pendant. http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9100.html

Seems weird. It should be charging the battery when you are plugged in.

Ummm... I leave my RV plugged in all winter and let the converter keep the battery charged all winter no issues. Like I said you might want to look at a quality converter. It nice to keep the battery charged while it stored. Also if you happen to use a RV park it nice to have power for the 12V system and not cook the battery doing it. Yeah I know you plan on camping or boondocking more so. Still you got to consider the storage angle and possible RV park usage.

Seriously need to find a good 3 stage converter. Those old 15V charger will cook a good battery in no time flat. My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree was known to cooking the house battery in a short time if you left it plugged into city power.

Just don't let the puller crush against the gear case cover.

Modify it by using a shorter bolt and nut in the center as a fixed pin to push against the shaft. Then just tighten the 2 bolts into the gear to press the shaft out. Here is what I got. Just the bolts go the other way around...

Secret is to only remove the 1,2,4 injection line pack. Leave 3,5,6 attached to the head. There is enough room to slip the pump past the 3,5,6 injector lines. 2 bolt puller is what you want but a steering wheel puller will work too. Just need a TQ wrench to tighten the gear nut back on to 125 ft/lbs.

Stock SO pump is fine. The only special tool you need to do the job is the puller for the gear. The rest of it is straight forward hand tools and removal. I've had guys limp from Boise, ID or Portland, OR for VP44 swap outs. I'm right around that range now with my own setup. (+50HP injectors and Edge Comp). Do the same thing hauling trailers most of the summer time either heavy loads of firewood or my RV through the mountains of Idaho.

What? Most VP44 are fairly good price. $1,100 or so. I know there is a few good vendors in Canada. Labor should only be only tops of 4 hours by the book I normally charge for 2 hours @ $60 USD. My fastest change out is 1.5 hours in a ranchers field in a rain storm.

Pictures wanted...

Just found out the ABS module is for sure good. I just did a temporary test from a clients truck to find out both modules behave the same. So that means there is sensor / hub issues in the front.

If the WTS light is delayed there is internal memory issues in the ECM and the ECM is NOT booted up and functional. The first instruction is to fire grid heaters. So that's why I asked. Still in all the boost fooler inn the Edge should keep the MAPP sensor voltage low enough not to trip no matter how high the boost goes even to 100 PSI. Like my truck I touch 37-38 PSI and never trip a single P234 code. Just because you changed the alternator doesn't mean its good. We've seen brand new alternators spitting out over 0.1 AC volts and cooking ECMs, PCMs, and VP44 and create all the other weird issues too. Still charge fine but way too much AC noise. Normal is 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts. Marginal is 0.05 Ac Volts A fail is 0.1 volts and above.

Ok. First off welcome to the family here... Next off... P0253 code is a VP44 failure. Yeah it's dying. As for P0234 is not typical of a Edge Product tuner. That means that either the boost fooler failed internally. Thing I'm concerned about is the P0253 code is a sign of alternator problem possibly. By chance is the WAIT TO START light coming on instantly or is it delayed? Just looking if there is any ECM damage possibly causing long cranking sessions.

The flame looks like a strong bic lighter. About 1-2 inch tall flame from a small burner. Basically consumption wise from lightest to heaviest. LIGHTEST Fridge -> Cook Stove / Oven -> Water Heater -> Furnace HEAVIEST I typically will fire up the fridge and not even worry about running it on AC power. The water heater I will selectively turn off and on when needed don't need to waste fuel for heating water through the day. Furnace I installed a programmable digital thermostat. Very handy in getting the most from the heater use. Have it cut back during the night and burst heat in the morning then level off or lower during the day. Propane typically isn't an issue till you say furnace... Power wise... Forced air furnace is the heavy power user typically. My fridge has 6A fuse if that gives a clue also the water heater is the same as well. So power wise... HEAVIEST Furnace, Lights, Water pump, Fridge, Water heater LIGHTEST

LOL. Fridge uses so little. Even in my old 1976 Dodge Jamboree the old Dometic Fridge would go nearly 2 months on a single 20# propane bottle. I know my Jayco with the Norcold electronic fridge will go over 7-10 days on a single battery charge Well over 2 months on a single 30# propane bottle.

Yeah... Normally good alternator is around 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts.

Dang you Dave you had to bring that up didn't you...

Calendar entry has been made for the Site. Might want to click if your going or not.

Thanks Nick. That would be insulting to use a "Idaho Potato" for a exhaust brake.

Personally think they need to be moved to the article database to be saved.

That's why I love my Edge Products boost elbow. No adjustment and does like it should and provides 35 PSI boost pressure. I've got an adjustable boost elbow in my toolbox but hate that darn thing 1/16 of a turn could change boost 5-10 PSI. A matter of fact I got to order a boost elbow for the truck in my yard. Edge only wants $10 bucks for the elbow.