rburks

Look, your only gonna see fuel from one line especially at first till it starts pushing out all the Air,,,,AS soon as you see one line leeking, tighten it and bump starter to engage LP and wait for next one to seep....ITS EASY AS CRAP...IVE NEVER HAD THIS NOT WORK BUT be patient young grasshopper ... IVE had to cycle the LP with the key 5-6 maybe 7 times when replacing VP pump to get fuel at 1st line seeping, eventually one line will pump up and the rest will follow suit.. Now, if after this is done accurately and still no fuel to the other lines then you have other issues..and we can discuss that then...BUT unless you have deep pockets and don't mind throwing parts at it, i suggest to following the troubleshooting procedures already stated above Now I've never jumpered the LP fuel pump RELAY as NICK Suggested cause i never thought of it. .. but if you do this I WOULDN'T leave the LP running for extended periods of time cause during the LP pumps life cycle if doesn't see continuous operation for probably 20 sec. at a time when cranking... AND be DANG sure you get on the RIGHT pins.. #30 & #87. OR you could have problems that will make this one seem minimal..

Yea i see what your saying, i thought maybe some kind of storage might take away that boost surge and boost creep you were experiencing

OK, NOW THAT YOU SEE FUEL FROM#4 (trickle is all you should see just make sure its not sputtering air bubbles} tighten #4 and repeat the process, next one that trickles fuel tighten it up, only bumping starter to engage the lift pump. Im telling ya, there's a real good chance that thats all that is wrong is you have fuel lines air locked with air these VP systems can be a beast to get started after lines have been opened up

I THINK YOU JUST HAVE AIR IN THE SYSTEM I COULD BE WRONG. ....BUT YOU NEED TO BLEED THE SYSTEM then you can eliminate the lift pump.....BY Mikes way priming the Fuel system, Did you loosen each of the fuel lines at the head and banjo fitting at VP pump, then Bump starter only till you here raptor pump run for 20 seconds IIRC, repeat this process till you have fuel coming out around banjo fitting at VP. Then keep repeating process of cycling the lift pump by bumping starter till you get fuel coming from a fuel line at the head, as each line starts leaking fuel tighten it up,,repeat this process till all fuel lines have fuel coming out and have all been tightened..this should have all the air out of system

OK,,MOVING ON... When i bought my edge juice w/att several yrs ago like maybe 4-5, word was THEN that smarty didn't work that well with 2nd GENS.. How has that changed???

Am i the only one that feels its "NOT SUCH A GOOD IDEA to sever into 2-Major wires going to and thru the ECM Harness.. AS far as the edge box being hooked up..i ran it for a good while before i had anything other than timing cause i refused to hack into the wires, then i found out about the stealth plate. Maybe your right, maybe it's no different but at least the connection isn't exposed. IMHO. ...ANYWAY thats my opinion and you know what they say about opinions....LOL

appreciate W/F and you guys response, explaining to me how torque management works...

IF i was going to use the Smarty, which one would i need to go with using with the Edge box

I'm Not trying to be a SMART Arse.. really

I Just personally don't like hacking into the OEM wiring harness on any vehicle but especially on the 2nd GEN Automatic, and especially into the ECM Harness, i just smell a recipe for disaster cause you have {meaning guys with Auto 2gen} so many issues with interference and voltage that i just would like to avoid something else to have to eliminate when there is problems, probably not that big of a deal on Manual trucks

Nop,,,, I'm using this:

Ya, i read the link W/F posted for The BD Race Box..and hacking into OEM wires,,, don't believe i want anything to do with that,

IS THAT FROM ERIC THE CAR GUY OR MIKE THE TRUCK GUY

cp734,,,, did you get your throttle response issues resolved?????

So you would have to replace the complete fan hub assembly mount???

SO once truck is moving T.M. is off???

Does the Edge Juice or Comp still allow Torque Managment to de-fuel

QDM4fun...did you get the issues with your wiper motor resolved??

OEM Dodge or tru vu

if i buy either I'm doing exactly what W/F did, first thing, no sense it putting it off

Thses frigg'n lines are tedious as Heck ,, i don't think I've ever taken 6 loose that at least one didn't seep after put back on till you tight the crap out of it or loosen and tighten..

are they power and heated are they OEM

look and see if fuel is dripping around fuel line itself behind the nut or seeping out around the bore in the head. if its dripping down the line I've found it most of the time to be connection between fuel line and crossover tube, and if its seeping around bore hole it"s usually o-rings on crossover tubes. or i have seen once tube not matting to injector cause it also to leak out the borehole but that was because the tube tapered surface was scared pretty bad.. *****You probably already knew this but i thought id mention it, if your like me sometime you just need your memory jogged a little, everything starts ri=unning together

did you do the DPF & CAT Delete yourself?? //probably dumb question, I'm sure you did was it very much of a pain