rburks

Make sure the kit is the one which has the double lipped seal, there 2-different kits

that motor shine'n liKe a DIAMOND in a Goats ARSE,,,,HaHA..HaHA

Did you have any issues bolting up the ECM,, It looks kinda close in the pictures, i meAN U CAN tell its missing it with no problem but just wandered

that is one ugly A$$ TRUCK,,,The NISSAN

HAS DOES THE MPG FOOLER work with Edge Comp or Edge juice..or any programmer??? i mean does it stop the programmer from adding its targeted timing ???

ME TO

I think your truck look Great,, wouldn't do nothing,, just get it back together ad RIDEEEE....dying to know how this things gonna perform

FIND a piece of hose to slide up on the barb fitting on PS pump and then shove a bolt in the end to plug off so it won't leak and force fluid thru the booster Micheal done a article years ago on this, thats how i knew this

THIS IS A TUFF ONE...reading that diagram is about as confusing as a Po-lock PERSON in a round room trying to find a corner to PI$$ in IM SORRY,,,, POLITICALLY CORRECT NOW

***P/S when you bleed it this time and you take return line off"at the PS PUMP Make sure its the return from hydra boost unit,, it will ave clamps because its low psi. GET SOMEONE TO PUSH BRAKE PEDAL WHILE YOU WATCH FLUID..SEE IF IT PULSATES WHEN BRAKE PEDAL IS PUSHED IF YOU stick hose in a clear bottle you will be able to see the air..

well i don't think cheep oil is issue, if bleeding doesn't do it, then.. ..I 'D say if it were me i would be looking at hydra boost unit,,Makes sense that you had a leak issue, "BRAKES STEERING WAS FINE"//???/ ...Then you "RE-SEALED IT as you stated above and now you have issue...im gonna say you missed a step or like maybe pinched a o-ring or something that making it bypass or its just crapped out IM only guessing at whats malfunctioning inside hydra boost IDK,,,,BUT I'd bet money that the hydra boost is the culprit

Ok,,, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say it could be he got a bad Wiper motor,,ILL Explain,,"Correct me if I'm wrong" but it appears that the the ground for the Motor grounds the Housing on entrance and then completes the park switch..if the park switch were to short circuit it would short the motor and he would show positive voltage on the housing and GND wire I'm theory: its the MOTOR the Culprit

Did you see where the GoPoint actually shows TSB's,,,thought that was pretty cool..

I'm kinda confused with the CANBUS thing,,,trying to put this in perspective so i can decide which would be the better choice,,, there both about the same price

OK..Mike ..were now above my pay grade on electronics ... so all the vehicles have OBDII ports and that doesn't have anything to do with CANBUS,,,OBDII is still used to read diagnostics ????

so can the GoPoint be used for 2nd GEN Trucks,,,would it be better choice for iPhone,,isn't CABUS whats used on new autos like 3rd and 4th GEN

Are they any foam in P/S Canister when running engine??? Sounds like you have air in sys.. when you bleed the system you can't hold it against the locks any ...its best to just turn the wheel back and forth, 1/2 turns and press the brake every few seconds assuring you don't pump the canister dry before refilling... also be sure your removing the return line from the hydrboos to P/S pump to flush i used a empty water bottle that way i can make sure I'm not pumping out more than I'm putting in

basically what your saying is without the necessary heat in the cylinders the advanced timing not gonna mean diddley,,just wasted fuel...

OK,, that came out wrong...what i should have said is the ECM is gonna Try to "STABILIZE" Timing...let me try this agin... The cold "more dense" air is definitely going to advance the "Engine Timing" on any engine,,i think thats agreed on ,,,so to "STABILIZE OR COMPENSATE FOR THE ADVANCE TIMING the ECM sees this and advances the "FUEL Delivery timing ,,which without a steady Cylinder temps of 800-1000f degrees results in a "incomplete or inefficient burn,, which EXPLAINS the fuel/valve rattle and the drop in MPG..

Yabba.. IS that the smaller Size BHAF...??? what gauge metal or aluminum is that and did you bend it yourself, if so what did you use??

well your probably right about 2nd gen cause the ECM gonna retard timing and increase fuel delivery to compensate for the cooler more dense air...DANG....

Like my new oil dip stick i bought a few years ago was like gunmetal dark finish instead of the usually machine satin silver fininsh for some reason.. made it very hard to see the marks after about a month from oil change..so the other day i took scotchbrite to it ,,DIDNT DO ANYTHING,,Then lightly i took sandpaper 300-500grit IIRC and the finish mor like the old one { like silver machined} but it almost took the marks clean off so i took dreamed / disk attach and defined the marks so i could see

SOMETIMES CAN BE VERY HARD TO SEE, if he cleaned with sand disk it probably made it even harder to see

Glad you got it fixed

12v tappet cover