rburks

Mike ,, my engine oil is black to0 and thin as sh$#,,,i just changed it 3- weeks ago and ant put but maybe 100miles on it...

black,, very black, very...thats why i first thought oil leak, then i felt how thin it was an thought slight fuel leak maybe at f/p Gauge sender and fuel is saturating oil film left on oilpan from oil change and filter dripping when changed wasn't doing my oil changes last yr, had my buddys garage do it..."not the tidiest bunch in the world thats for sure.

just looked to up,,its a Larger Compressor wheel with the stock compressor housing machined to accommodate the bigger wheel, SAME STOCk HX35 exhaust housing and turbine wheel

OR IS HX35/40 CHANGE to larger exhaust housing ????

Isn't thats what a HX35/40 Hybrid?????

so your saying that you can mount a exhaust brake to your HX 40 14" Housing???

Thanks,,, looks like I'm going to be doing it soon, when i fix or replace P/S Pump etc... where does this pressure come from that overflows the P/S pump??????

No, they ship you the new trans. and you ship thin back your core. you responsible for install. i Had a shop {Countryside transmissions} pull my old one and slide in the new. I Actually didn't know it at the time i bought my Goerend but They actually can build pretty nice transmission themselves, i know a few that running them and they will use whatever brand stuff you want .. I've got them hooked up with Goerend and Dynotec now that they've done mine.. they are LOCATED IN BEVERDAM/CROMWELL, KY Just north of Bowling Green on 231 Natcher pkwy

They are very GOOD TO DEAL WITH And they don't leave you hang'n.... Ken at Dynotec is really good and he is the specialized tech for 47RE 48RE TRANS. builds. thats all he himself deals with.. When Goerend stopped actually building the Trans Oh" bout 2yrs ago Dave Goerend kinda formed a Deal with DYNOTEC / Ken Scamp,,To build there Transmissions using all there Components.. i think maybe they already new each other pretty well.. If your like me an not familiar with auto transmissions and don't have that much time, IT was the way to go for me. I could have bought all the components from Goerends and had a trans shop to build it but the problem is there is none around me that i would trust and they really don't won't to fool with it once you tell them you will be furnishing all the parts.. if i had choose that route i maybe could have saved around 800.00...BUT I wouldn't have 5-yr 350,000mile warranty and lifetime warranty on T/C. I paid 3950,00 +750.00 for billet input shaft, I've got Triple Disk 15blade 800/300 stall T/C ****Oh" yeah i forgot: They do some special machining to the Cases to allow more flow for extra lube and performance, i think maybe thats why they shift out like the do, very quick but no "JERKY JERKY,,Very smooth.. my issue was with 3-4 shift because of T/C lockup/re-lock timing and they said thats the PCM

where was the pressure coming from, was it coming from. ????

I Did the VACUUM SEAL KIT" ,When i had my injection pump off, bout 3-years ago, i CHECKED IT OTHER night and its dry. ****01cummins4ever: where was the pressure coming from, was it coming from. ????

DAG NABBET......... ..ThIS IS what that FINE OIL MIST IS I SEEN UNDER TRUCK, DRIPPING OFF OILPAN BOLTS AND A MIST RESIDUE ALL OVER PAN AND COOLER LINES I seen it while working on trans other night,,i noticed the mist was on the top of P/S Thought it was a fuel leak at first

DID YOU RUN ENGINE WHILE DOING THIS OR IS IT NECESSARY, WHICH LINE DID YOU TAKE LOOSE FROM HYDRO BOOST??

Make sure the One's from cummins is the double lip seals. this Guy was the one to address this issue with vacuum pumps on the 2nd GEN's. He used to run Dodge CUMMINS DRW Hauling cars coast to coast. Very interesting Gentlemen to talk to and Has a vast knowledge of these trucks. He told me that Cummins came to him after hearing of this seal he was having made to solve his issues, and now they are offering the same seal but you have to ask for it cause some cummins shops may steal have older stock here is the Link to his site http://www.fixinrams.com P/S he was offering the seal kit with tool and VID./DVD instructional.

Installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission with triple disk T/C last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard. So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA. So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an easy fix. According to what he told me via Dave Goerend that some of the 2ND Gen auto Trucks have this issue from factory, "No one knows why"but its something in the PCM, but Dave Goerend has designed a Special Accumulator/solenoid to cure the Hard 3-4 shift. they do not install it on all trans cause only a few have this issue and if one doesn't have this issue it can make the final 3-4 shift soft. ** Apparently, what happens id the T/C Locks or re-locks at the same time as the shift from 3rd gear to 4th, i think some refer to this as "Stack Shifts"..its a PCM program thing. and sense you can't do anything about that this is the fix. They sent it to me free of charge, got in UPS last week.

YA HX35 is a pretty sweet turbo, I started to To go with HX35 but even the reman turbo shop wanted a heavy core charge cause i wasn't exchanging like for like,,,cause i had HY35.,,i would have been out more money than what i was for new

when you say"had them redone" did you send them in to DDP Exchange or did you buy there nozzles and have diesel shop remount them on your body's??

yeah, most of the Aftermarket turbos have HX40 full 4"down pipe. wish somebody would come up with a solution for this, id love to have a exhaust brake

that wasn't too bad of a deal.. got you back good as new

Sorry, i see it now i mis-read the post..., your still dealing with a precise machined fit and suggest even as much caution in cleaning cause the lines, ''wouldn't use anything real abrasive .. they make a brass wire brush thats maybe a little bigger than toothbrush..you can find them at northern, harbor freight, i found them at an outlet store that sells cheep tools kinda like a flee market...the soft wire wheels for dermal should be fine just go slow and after you get the corrosion off check for pitting, this could also cause problems.. rburks

I would let them soak in something like Coleman fuel, sea foam "Deep Creep" overnite, then take a brass wire brush, this is a very precise machine finish on this end of the tube that mates to the injector lines, if it still doesn't look right replace as needed, "TRUST me, the cost for a few crossover tubes will not compare to the nitemare of trying to solve leaking lines when you put everything back together, be sure to replace the o-rings at the very least and if you remove injectors replace the copper washers

I pressed the 'Like This button" but not i liked it happened but i mean i hate it happened to ya...DANG''' what size hose clamp??? i mean it wasn't the boot clamp i WOULDNT think

These ones in 2WD 3500 are extremely light duty and under designed IMHO.. Anybody have any suggestions of beefing up front end

Im still on the fence about My ATS 3000. I mean its a great turbo and i believe its bullet proof, but sometime's I'm still disappointed in spool up, specially on hot humid days like now and when i turn the bottom loose like 3x5 or 4x4 4x5 IT ROLLS SMOKE, i mean it not roll"n COAL by any means but not the setting you want in THE YUPPY Neighborhoods either Maybe need more timing and fuel to increase D/P IDK THAT 9cm HY35 Spoils ya on spool up