rburks

THANKS, thats a good point about pre washing under tk

what your describing sounds to be to be electrical, i could be wrong. it could be else where. ...like maybe the computer in top of the Vp44 or maybe something that controls it . but the fact you don't have any codes is confusing.. But if you have good steady FP it must be up front around the fuel system IM Thinking this might be your problem,,i hope it is anyway.....JUST UNHOOK BATTERY TERMINALS FROM BOTH SIDES ATLEAST NEG- ON PASS SIDE AND LEAVE OFF FOR A FEW MIN. THE REINSTALL. THEN TURN KEY OVER TO START POSITION BUT DON CRANK MOTOR, PRESS DOWN SLOWLY ON FUEL PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO FIREWALL OR TILL IT STOPS THEN SLOWLY RELEASE PEDAL BACT TO TOP, REPEAT THIS STEP 1-TIME AT LEAST AND YOUR DONE.........Good luck

have you had your battery terminals loose lately, if so you may need to recalibrate your apps. i mean if your sure that LP cutting outs not the issue and your sure your FP is staying up then lets move on

where is your fp sending unit mounted

If you had a fuse in power wire id say bridge #85 &86# over on relay and see if it solves it but better not do that...try replacing the relay first, it may be the culprit sorry i just seen where you replied if did have fuse

RELAY COULD HAVE BEEN WEEK'ND AND TRIP'N OUT UNDER AMP LOAD FROM LP

Well if it didn't do it before you have to start with the issue at hand, it makes no sense to start looking elsewhere before you rule this out or it fixes it one

IDK, They said this was a common issue with some auto tks. Ken @ dynotec said that TC is re-locking at the same time as the 3-4 shift

WHY DID IT NOT Blow a fuse, or trip the relay, it sounds like you didn't install a fuse ln the power wire, your connecting wires from engine harness are already fuse.d the relay must be huge to withstand that did you replace the relay????

Well good news is your problem is isolated to the area where the wiring fried, bad news is now you got to find it. i would undo what ever you done to piece it back and go from there. it has to be a bad connecting plug maybe the heat melted the plastic and pins are loose or a frayed wire somewhere, a good place to start is the signal wire that comes from ECM to activate the pump

when you say 7/16 fuel lines i assume you are talking about the line going from lift pump to VP Pump??? are you sure you don't mean 1/2 inch line cause 7/16 is stock

Did it do this before the wiring fried

i remember at one time a big discussion on here about to much lift pump pressure causing VP issues, i think it was stated that 20-21psi was max. maybe someone else will chime in that know about this

Have you changed filters?? Need more info on your set up, like Are you still funning factory carter lift pump or in tank factory pump or have you installed AIRDOG OR FASS, Factory injectors???, are you running a programmer or timing box??? do you have Gauges??? be nice if you new if fuel pressure was dropping when this occurs.....

what is ddrp??? did you have this issue before you had wiring problems???

IS IT COMPLICATED JOB TO DROP VALVE BODY AND INSTALL 3-4 ACCUMULATOR I installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard. So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA. So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an easy fix. According to what he told me via Dave Goerend that some of the 2ND Gen auto Trucks have this issue from factory, "No one knows why"but its something in the PCM, but Dave Goerend has designed a Special Accumulator/solenoid to cure this. they do not install it on all trans cause only a few have this issue and if one doesn't have this issue it can make the final 3-4 shift soft So i have to drop pan and valve body to install this part, Never really done much with auto transmission's and wondering is this pretty easy or do i need to find a shop to do this?? He has already sent me the part Free,"no charge" these Are Really Great People to deal with.. rburks

THERE ARE two only wires coming from the negative battery terminal on drivers side of my truck, one goes to the stud post on the inner fender in front of battery and the other goes to the frame. blk/tan wire come out of ecm harness and also bot to frame, so i GUESS you can say its connected to -Neg side of Battery just i connected thru frame also main negitive battery cable on passenger side goes straight to engine block....and smaller one coming from - terminal goes to side post on inner fender behind air filter I'm trying to get pictures posted if i can

there are several ground wires that run and connect via terminal lug ends, to the stud on inner fender in front of battery on drivers side and grounded thru battery by a wire off of - negative post. at least thats how my truck is, i have had to replace a few of the terminal ends in the past VP, APPS, ECM, AND GRID HEATERS, all ground thru this

I thought the ECM grounded through the motor block, and isn't there a ground wire behind the starter as i recall that jumpers to frame or maybe its the negative post on the starter and i think there is a GND on front bottom of engine that jumps over to the Frame

NO, the bigger injectors are harder to atomize especially +100 and up. they get more power cause they flow more fuel cause they open the holes in the oOEM nozzles, this increase's flow but decreases pressure, sure the good companies have been able to increase the pressure bact to or close to spec by shimming and modifying the seats but theres only so much adjustment there. DDP [Atleast on the 40-50-60hp} keep the same size holes but increase the number of holes help keeping the pressure up with better atomization and they change the spray pattern to there custom design.

ACTUALLY A bigger turbo could make it worse especially on the low end with with IAT and boost fooled..

But i still sat its your APPS

if you haven't already please check your ground wires and Terminal connections. IM not saying ADD grounds for no reason 'BUT" WIRES are just like us they don't last forever. They become chafed, cut, mangled and corroded . its good to visually inspected your grounds from time to time especially if you live in areas where road salt is used. i spray dialectic grease on mine every so often especially the ones on drivers side in front of battery, and i do also battery terminals. I would only replace a ground wire if i found one bad or one that was questionable. Like Mike said, there is no sense add grounds only if one is bad

GEEEE thats a long drive from Virginia, MY truck may have to set this one out and fly the friendly sky's