rburks

You do understand that without Boost fooling via a box or programmer that any boost psi over i think 20psi will set off overboost code# and the ECM will defuel to overcorrect the increased boost psi. to sum it up.. without fooling the ECM the the boost elbo will make your truck run like sh$$ Richie:thumbup2:

Does anybody know of a thread on adjusting the TV cable from the APPS to the trans. for Auto trans?? Richie

Richie

Richie:thumbup2:

O.K. I TO had been struggling with this stalling issue..but.. about 2-months ago i thought i had fixed it buy replacing some ground connections and a TIMBP APPPS...Wrong....yestarday it done it again..thing is..it is random..and unlike SASQCH & JOHNFAK ..MINE does not seem to do it when it cold...only does it after its warmed up and has been ran a few miles...mine too will pull down rpms real low at times but does not stall but it almost does..:banghead: I am curious..has anyone had this issue that is running stock injectors and stock SO VP pump??? Richie

O.K. I had been struggling with this stalling issue..but.. about 2-months ago i thought i had fixed it buy replacing some ground connections and a TIMBP APPPS...Wrong....yestarday it done it again..thing is..it is random..and unlike SASQCH & JOHNFAK ..MINE does not seem to do it when it cold...only does it after its warmed up and has been ran a few miles...mine too will pull down rpms real low at times but does not stall but it almost does..:banghead: I am curious..has anyone had this issue that is running stock injectors and stock SO VP pump???

O.K..what about a curroded or poor connection or a wire....wouldn't that cause the AMP'S to increase. OR it could be the elect.motor is going down..causing it to pull more amps I HAVE THE # FOR THE FILTERS, These are Luber-finer#... parts store should be able to cross them Fuel- FF5613 WATER SEPERATOR-FS1023 Richie

JL..how in the 'He$$$$ did something get thru both filters...just curious ..i have Airdog 100 also..rumors lately about the efficiency of the Filters:shrug: Richie:thumbup2:

Heck..If i had not been able to limit my EGT's & Fueling for the short time i ran that Stock HY35 I would have surely melted it down because i did not have to be pulling or hauling anything for the EGT's to Max out...I could pull out of the drive way and in 1/2 mile put them at 1350f& they would still be climbing when i let off...no hill..all flat ground...keep in mind that i did find a small crack in the weld on the Intercooler when i removed and pressure checked it..I had it off when i was doing the front crank seal install..no big deal.. there was almost no-weld where it cracked..guess that one was made on FRIDAY afternoon or Monday morning:lmao: Richie:thumbup2:

The edge juice limits & alarms are adjustable with the push of a button...

Richie:thumbup2:

The windshield washer used for water/methanol injection sys. is the "BLUE" stuff thats good to -20f it will say "CONTAINS METHANOL" on the label some say its 30% methanol some say 40% Richie:thumbup2:

The wires for the Fog lights goes into a secondary Harness that runs under the radiator that also has the wires for the passanger side Headlights, this secondary harness comes into the the "Main Harness" just in front of the bottom of the windshield washer Tank, the 2-wires are unbelievably small, I rewired mine onto a relay and made my harness using 12-gauge wire..i used the original fog light wires for trigger wires to trigger the relays. Richie:thumbup2:

Richie:thumbup2:

IF YO ARE GOING WITH NEW: 2-recomendations Switzer S300 {dont go any larger than 12cm on exhaust end &around 60 on the compressor end} price is around 1000.00 ATS Aurora3000: This turbo is said to be designed & Mapped specificely for the Cummins 24valve running mild mods & injectors.." it does not have a waste gate" comes with 4"S/S Down pipe and all gaskets and hardware.. "BACKED BY A UNLIMITED 3YR. 150,000MILE WARRANTY... price..around... 1450.00+ IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON A GOOD HX35 i would say you would be satisifed...but that is a story within its self..be aware of play in the shaft from side to side you should be able to feel the play but not see it... it must have 10,000 play to allow oil to coat and pass around the bearings If i was going to go With a used HX35 I would look for a good core at a cheep price with very little play and make sure the blades have no been rubbing the housing..then i would send it to a turbo shop such as D.I.S. and let them rebuild it with new seals and bearings..i think you could end up with aroud 1/2 the price of new... :smart:BE AWARE OF THE EBAY TURBOS, THEY ARE CHINA KNOCK-OFF'S of a HX35 if you look close to photos the # on the housing casting is chinesse... Richie

Why did you take it out???

AAAA-Men ..Michael ...Its unreal how many problems out there is a result to bad ot faulty wiring or grounds or terminal ends or..SOME ONE HACKING INTO THE ORGINAL HARNESS especially in a location sucsptiable to water & salt from road:smart: :thumbup2:Richie

I agree with ISX that keeping the RPM's up when pulling, especialy pulling a Hill, is a must in order to control EGT's...having said that...1500RPM isn"t Lugging as much as you would think w/the HY35 Turbo..that thing spools at 1100-1200 w/the boost fooled..I mean its strong at 1500RPM but it curves over by the time you get to 2000rpm or just before...towing w/ any mods. at all requires you to watch the PYRO and down shift accordingly..annd.. back your foot of the go pedal...:smart:"YOU WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO USE EVEN HALF THE ADDED HP. FROM THAT BOX WITHOUT MELTING HER DOWN UNLESS YOU UPGRADE THAT TURBO & EXHAUST...I mean you can run that box wide open on the highest setting..but especially when towing your going to have to back out of the throttle and keep the turbo spooled tight{2000rpm+} "cant keep your foot in it very long" The problem is a 2-phase issue with the exhaust turbine wheel & housing... 1#it isn"t large enough to pull the exhaust gasses out of the engine fast enough #2 the exhaust turbine wheel is so small that it can't turn the compressor wheel fast enough to make the desired air needed.... hope this helps you out:thumbup2: Richie --- Update to the previous post... YES.. You can swap to an HX35 complete turbo but you will have to change your down pipe...your HY35 has a 3.5" adaptor flange elbo that bolts up to the back of turbo exhaust housing & connects to the 3.5"down pipe via a ball seat type deal simular to whats on a V8 GM gas motor. The HX35 uses a V-Band clamp to connect and seal to the turbo exhaust housing.. the flange on the turbo exhaust housing is 3.5"dia. I HAVE A NEW Stainless Steel 4"to 3.5" downpipe for HX35 or any turbo w/3.5" flange for V-BAND connection ..this is to be used with a 4" exhaust system:whistle: Richie

Oh Boy! 187K on mine!

JL...did you find out where the crack is at... Very curious as to if it was cracked through the retutn gallery or through the injector bore in the head.. You Know i was thinking that its Odd that with that much pressure in the return that you did not have fuel leaking out around the connector tube bore..I mean that an O-ring should have give out by now and be weeping fuel.. subscribed!!! Richie

Yeah... I cut that POS end off, trimmed the wires back enough to get rid of the "green rot" and soldered all those in a copper terminal like used on batterie cables..then heat shrink'd the connection I also made a Jumper ground wire from 10gauge wire from frame to tha post in front of the battery. I too was having problems with idle rpm's up & down at random...and stalling...between that and a TIMBO APPS sensor, Problem solved!! Richie

Cummins 2001...I to had the same issue after adding edge juice/att box & 50hp injectors..and I have a 2002 Auto trans. in a 3500-2WD w/HY35 TURBO w/9cm housing. I could run up 1350EGT every time i got on the go pedal and stayed in it... After i recently Installed a new ATS Aurora 3000 Turbo w/ ATS Pulse Flow Exhaust Manifold Kit..I cant make it go over 1050EGT ..most of the time around 900-950 pulling & around 700-750 crusing on highway SO....ISX is correct..the 9cm exhaust housing on the stock HY35 Turbo won't allow any upgrade in power...the EGT'S were borderline on my truck "STOCK" with no box and injectors when pulling a load of any size.. And you can't swap out the exhaust housing on the HY35 for a HX35..HX35 bolts to the compressor housing and the HY35 has a big Snap-ring holding it on compressor housing.. Good Luck:thumbup2: Richie

Sounds like your getting pressure in the tank for sure the vent on top of tank should take care of normal pressure from heat expansion...and with the airdog it should not even be an issue...all fingers point to the head...butt...there is no absolute way of knowing without pulling the Head....One other thing to mention...do you have an increased amount of blow-by from CCV tube?? IF THE CYLINDER PRESSURE WAS TO GET BY THE COPPER WASHER SEALS ON THE INJECTOR IN THE INJECTOR BORE IT COULD PRESSURIZE THE FUEL RETURN GALLERY AND BACK TO THE TANK...WHAT I AM SAYING IS THE CRACK COULD BE RIGHT AT OR ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COPPER WASHER SEAT/SEAL

Richie