rburks

Check fuse in #9 slot in fuse panel in the end of dash on drivers side!!! Richie

JL...its possiable you could have a crack in A "INJECTOR BORE" say..between the bore and exhaust or intake valve....this would explain why it only does it when warm...the crack only expands when hot..I only had this happen once on a NTC cummins years ago I KNOW THIS IS NOT A COMMON PROBLEM YOU HERE OF ON THE FORUMS..BUT THEN AGAIN ..THERE IS NOTHING COMMON ABOUT WHAT YOUR GOING THROUGH WITH YOUR TRUCK.... Richie

Oh-well..I guess i am out 125.00 bucks and Stuck with a so-called Intake manifold "elbo"..Hell...it looks like 2-exhaust tailpipes welded together to me:lmao2:

How did you get the Injectors out without pulling the Tubes first????? --- Update to the previous post... As he calls me out on a mistake... Well being the first wiring diagram we all had was the cheap black and white diagrams from the Dodge FSM well I did pay close attention to the grounds. Come to find out the color map shows very clearly the ground terimnal behind the starter is lift pump, fuel heater and I think grid heater solenoid. As for the rest of the grounds like the engine sensors and the ECM ground we start tracing them down and found out they come together at the engine side battery ground not the terminal behind the starter. So I need a good ol'....

I have been trying to get a hold of him myself for at least 3-months,..Left e-mails, voicmails, PM...no responce... I bought one of the "TUNNELRAM" Intakes with intake elbo/horn...IT WAS SUPPOST TO BE A MATCHED SET FOR 2002 2nd GEN...but the INTAKE ELBO/HORN does not fit; not even close...I new it would not fit when i opened up the box so I tried to call him..left Voicemail...the email...sent the Guy that made it a PM and he replied back that it should work and told me to call "JKIDD" for any other problems... ...THATS WHAT I TRIED TO DO IN THE FIRST PLACE!!! Besides this was his {TURBOLOVVER'S}product...his fu%$%^ up. He shipped the pair Directly to me! total order was 1250.00$ VERY DISAPPOINTED:nono: Richie

O.K sorry Guys, Many thanks for the replys... I have been gone for a few days and have nor been able to reply to the thread....I think i need to better explain what my truck is doing ....here goes; When i start my truck, say like now..it idles O.K. then after it idles for a while it will start idleing up on its Own just like theres a Ghost in the cab patting the fuel pedal... uuuup & doown..at random also if you when you put in reverse and forward it eithier tries to die or does die..especialt if yo pat the fuel pedal reving up the engine and the shifting after the rpms fall back it dies every time sence my last post..Talking several times with Michael, I have completey took apart my entire ground system & checked...checked the Ground wires {black/tan} from VP & ECM TO Battery Ground with DVM, all were good with little to no resistance.. "OH Yeah" we found out something interesting about the "ECM GROUND" Buuut..I let Michael explain that.."Dont want to spoil it for him" ha..ha.. I replaced the cam sensor..no change...my truck does not have crank sensor 2002 model I am at the point that i think it has to bee the apps or ECM which one?....i don't know:shrug: Richie

COVER IS GOOD... NO CRACKS Do we need the dowel pin there or was it just to align the case to the block? I would presume the case is cast aluminum, can it be tig'd There is no pressure there in the case area, what about an epoxy or???

I have a timing Gear Cover, PM me for more info. Richie

O.K I replaced V.P 2-months ago, after this the engine idled up & down spuraticaly. then i noticed it would try to die sometimes when shifting to drive or reverse.. Yesterday i changed out the VP again & problem is still the same and still there... last nite after idleing for 1/2 hour the RPM'S would roll up 2-300rpm at a time this is worse than before:banghead: Is this ECM??? PLESE HELP!! Richie

"YOU AND ME BOTH MICHAEL" The bright side is If i get through this i am going to Post one HE#L of a thread, w/ a Detailed Wiring diagram and phots, list of parts and where to by, and part#....DONT WONT NOBODY ELSE TO GO THROUGH THIS MADNESS:banghead: Seriously though..I have beat the forums to death trying to find info on this Mod....you fin people talking about it but no good or detailed info..."i found alot of peoples threads w/problems do this such ....fog lights not working when cycled to low beam, HB indicator staying on, HB & LB working backwards, LB not diming when on low, NOBODY HAS DONE A DETAILED THREAD ON HOW TO WIRE THESE UP YOURSELF... OH..SURE over on the other "Forums" The default answer is always suvlights.com or Dainel Stern Lighting...or LMC TRUCK {i tried the LMC one,POS} Wiring is cheap & small connectors are cheap china quality junk.. none of the above solder there connections THIS IS WHEN I ELECTED TO DO MY OWN...i soldered each and every connection & used heat shrink tubing Richie

O.K. let me correct some things i said in the recent post listed above,"mainly regarding the problem with Headlights not turning off after wiring new HEADLIGHT HARNESS W/RELAYS First, i think i better explain the configuration i was using... Basicly i was using 2-reays per side 1SPDT relay for the ground circuit & 1-SPST 5pin dual #87 output relay for the power circuit. SPDT means single post double through.. SPST means single post single through. alright the problem was with the SPDT relay in the ground circuit as i said above but here was the real problem... As many of you electrical GURU'S already know with a SPDT relay the connection from #30 {which is your primary feed}, to#87A {which is output] is the "DEFAULT" connection..so in this case because i was using this in a "GROUND" circuit... #30terminal was connected straight to -negitive post on Battery..#86 was connected to violet wire from PDC which is HOT at all times..#85 terminal was connected to Highbeam red/org. Ground switch wire from dimmer switch.. Now the reason they would not turn of was because that "CONNECTION BETWEEN #30 & 87A TERMINALS IS CONSTANT AT ALL TIMES ..whin activated by the trigger wire, #85 terminal, that only cycled between low & high beam and never actually "killed the ground to the Headlights. O.K. this could solved in 3-different methods" #1 Do away with the solid primary ground to battery and use ground switch red/org wire for terminal #30 #85 "this would defeat the whole purpose of me doing the HD relay harness if i cannot increase the ground cap. #2 Install a third relay to control the ground output to the SPDT primary ground relay."This would work but the # of relays are starting to pile up already 3- on the drivers side counting the relay for the fog lights. #3 and this is the way i choose to do it, i used 2-SPST w/dual 87-outputs to headlights "1-FOR THE LOW BEAM CIRCUIT & 1-FOR THE HIGHBEAM CIRCUIT...THIS WORKED OUT GREAT COULD NOT BE HAPPY'ER.... More to come>> Richie ---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ---------- ---------- Post added at 11:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 AM ---------- O.K Gang, i got the sport headlights wired up and they work great, but now my parklights are dim and barely burning... I am guessing the problem has to be the ground,.. could this be something to do with the ground from the switch not looping through the healight's now thus not being completed. Richie

O.K....Mopar...once again you hit it right on...problem was...Drum roll please:lol:... YOU CAN NOT USE A SPDT {single trip double through}RELAY IN THIS SYSTEM...because of the way it is configurated, when you brake the ground circuit with the switch it finds the frame ground on post #85 because there is about 2.5 -3volts reverse current on the High-Beam wire,{red/orange} which goes nowhere as long as that circuit is closed. Have reconfigured my wires, replaced the one SPDT with a SPST dual #87 output {not #87A & #87}Now i have to go back and make that part of the Harness from scratch,"what a PITA....:yme:Richie

O.K i i have got the lights to work pretty much the way they are suppost to but they will not cut off YEP...YOU HEARD RIGKT... THE WILL NO CUT OFF...SWITCH OFF..KEY IN MY POCKET:cry: HELP SOMEBODY !!!! NEED TO GET THIS THING BACK TOGETHER...people starting to as qusestions:ahhh: Richie

OK...YOU MAY HAVE ALREADY DONE THIS...or MAYBE YOU DIDN'T.....HERE IS THE WAY TO BLEAD AND PRIME THE INJECTORS: first you need to bump the starter" do not start,just bump to engage the lift pump. it should run for approx 20 seconds or so.. loosen the banjo bolt at the VP REPEAT this process until you loosen the banjo and know air is present, if you still have OEM lift pump or youdont get anypressure at the banjo, you might want to take a test light and put on the positive wire and bump the starter to see if pump has power going to it. if you have a AD or FASS you can here it run. after you have blead the system, loosen all or at least1-3-4-5-injectors and bump the starter letting the pump run. as each injector squirts fuel tighten it up. you willhave to repeat this several time...even more i would say in your case because it sounds like you may have it air-locked..after all have squirted fuel and lines have been tighten, try to start truck" only crank for 15-20 seconds at a time allowing 2-minites inbetween cranks..if it still wont start after severals try's, bump the starter again and loosen banjo bolt, if its full of air there is a void somewhere allowing the LP pump to suck air into the system places tolook: THE P.O.S OEM connector on the top of the fuel tank ..at the LP "remember itwill be between the LP AND TANK NOT LP AND VP:thumb1: Hope thiS helps:thumbup2: Richie

anybody running Synthetic P/S..?????? WHAT BRAND???

The cause of this im pretty sure it was my loosening the bolt to slide the bracket behind it..either the alum. brkt. interupted the ground or kept it from proper torque. see link above.. did check the other bolt on other side,,it was tight. Richie

4 HOURS X 2 MEN=16HRS. + 1HR. FOR LUNCH EA.=18HRS. 2-1/2HR. BREAK EA.= 20-HOURS LMAO sorry about that, shame on me:lmao:

I dont Know..but it sure not the way i had if figured in my head either...When i installed My VP i made a nice little bracket for the fuel line which had been agervating me sence i put on the "Big line Kit notched the bracket, loosened the bolt at ecm and slid it behind it, & tighten it down, didn't think it would be that any problem....& it wasn't loose to the point of moving just guess that Alum brkt. messed up the torgue..when i put my socket on it i could feel it was not tight, removed the piece and retightned and so far it is smooth:ahhh:

Michael, I know.. I am just curious is to how much drop there is...as we discussed over the phone hhen i first put the DVM on pin#23 org/blk wire at PCM connector my voltage was 0.314 so thinking it was low compared to o.448 printed on tag on rear of APPS i ajusted to Aprox. .447-.448 @ the PCM and it made no improvement infact i think it may have been worse...i tinking that the .314 was real close to begin with if messured at APPS or ECM.... I need to recheck it anyway and use the wire @APPS to get it correct using your method:smart: Richie

Think i found my problem"LOOSE BOLT ON ECM" one closest to motor. It wasn't to the point of falling out, i would say it was a little more than finger tight. tighten it up and so far she's smooth as silk.... Knock on wood:whistle2: