rburks

Sea Foam DEEP CREEP works pretty good on Carbon build up and on corrosion to

W/F ..Thats a good point. where can you get this done or can you do it yourself??? I have several Torque wrenches and of course there not expensive ones like "MAC, PROTO, SNAP ON, ETC...

I mean if you For sure have a front seal leaking, it would definitely be a good time to do it and the VP Pump as well as you can see in the write up the front cover is removed and thats the real PITA of installing VP injection pump is MAKING SURE YOU DONT DROP KEY into timing gear cover and insuring that you have KEY inserted in keyway properly, " doing all this while looking at it thru a Make up Mirror upside down

INJECTION PUMP? YES'''A little cause you've already removed most of the lines.. AS for the crank / front seal.. Removing the head would have to be much easier while doing this cause most of the front end ("Radiator, Air intercooler, bumper, etc...) has to come off to install seal on crank and or fnt cover gasket check my Write up over in TRUCK ARTICLES http://s1209.photobucket.com/user/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/story http://s1209.photobucket.com/user/rburks1/slideshow/Crank%20seal%20install/?albumview=slideshow

For pulling the CROSSOVER TUBES OUT , i would use one of the injector lines, you will probably have to remove at least a couple anyway, i use an old injector line a had to replace yrs ago. I'm not a fan of using pliers on them, it can be done but its 50-50 chance of marring one and sometimes you'll not see it with the naked eye till it's squirting fuel everywhere and you can't stop it from leaking. Here's a tip For Removing the INJECTORS : take a bolt from Intake horn/heater grids and a deep well socket thats big enough in diameter to fit over injector and the injector bore. place socket over bore/injector and place a large flat washer on top of socket. now place bolt thru socket and thread into injector and tighten...injector will pull free from bore in head.. P/S "you may have to use a big hex nut for spacer if needed " I have photos of doing this somewhere, ill see if i can find them

OK Guys, i finally got around to installing the Accumulator Housing from Goerend that Dynotec sent mw to cure the hard and odd 3-4 Shift. I dropped pan and filter last knight, I'll be dropping valve body today and installing accumulator today. ill update tonight on how it goes Wish me luck

what was hauling it at the time

Wow, that is some great vid's,,,,THANKS

Thats all i can see happening, i mean without engine running that rules out any seals failing

Listen to wild and Free, i think your gett'n all worked up over nothing, the GV doesn't hurt anything. just use it the way its most efficient, either GV on and just manually shift your main trans overdrive push button or down shift on inclines, 1500rpms should be ok on flat country if engine is not under much load with your set up your still in bottom of power curve' ;'watch your gauges' let the truck tell you what it needs, if your cruising at 1500 and you feel engine pull down ,egts go up meaning your incline on the road your on is increasing, "downshift, if you see your frequently down shifting just leave it out of main trans out OF OD overdrive till levels out, same with transmission temps"watch it and downshift if needed to reduce heat

Do you mean the truck set for 3 weeks and when you ran it after it setting for 3 weeks the P/S is now overflowing or do you mean it just randomly overflowed while setting, not being ran or drove for 3-weeks,,, if it just "overflowed while setting, "not being started or ran i would say that if you had added oil before being parked and was cold. now the p/s oil has expanded during warm weather. all i can thin off if motor has not ran

EDITED: LIKE I said after reading your POST.......I DIDNT Know the 99"s had HX35 Thought all Autos had HY35...MY Bad THANK YOU

At some point in anything, hyd, air, Fuel, etc... pressure becomes restriction. at the point where CFM or GPM doesn't increase or very little as pressure is increased is at that point

Depending on what you put in them, doing mild-upgrades like better than stock TC & Valve Body Around 300-350. NOW With Triple Disk TC, Valve Body, Billet Shafts, updated rebuild kit with the later updates and Torrington Bearings=up to 600hp...... you can probably find some threads on the Innerweb of people putting Allisions in there TK but its a pretty big job and you have to cut your truck floor pan up terrible. Yes, Im sure you can find lots of information on here from members thats upgraded there own trans Goerend Builds and sells everything, They build there TORQUE CONVERTER, VALVE BODY, complete rebuild kits with all upgrades, Billet input and output shafts, They Used to Build complete Trans. exchange, But they've now have turned that over to "DYNOTEC" a company in Jordan, Minn I Just installed one from them last year in my Truck, and i Love it. Dynotec and Goerend both are excellent to deal with.

if there much metal of course you know your turbo has to be replaced,.." but you'll also need to pipes loose from intercooler and clean flush intercooler and pipes before re-installing turbo. id would remove it if there is much metal shavings in the rubber boot at the neck of intercooler so you could flush it real good

DID YOU MEAN SCREELING SOUND..... THAT DONT SOUND GOOD....you need to pull your boot hose off Air side of turbo(one that goes to Air filter). check for excessive play from side to side in compressor wheel. if its making a noise you should see evidence of it rubbing the side of housing

THANKS

HEY, YOUR WELCOME

i cut the metal line into and used flaring tool and managed to rig a HOMEMADE BOOST ELBO FROM A BRASS AIR TANK CUTOFF, it actually worked pretty good

HE'S got A AUTO TK, HE'S A HY35 TURBO He ant gonna get no more than that. I Crimped my metal line shut and still couldn't break 20psi with edge ez and 50+ DDP'S,, Thats all that 9" rump will handle I DIDNT Know the 99"s had HX35 Thought all Autos had HY35...MY Bad

He says that his FP is good and consistent, no drop when the "miss" occurs. so IDK, Like i told him, its hard to diagnose without being there in person and hearing/seeing it. BUT: if it was sucking Air that should be the only time that it didn't do it was under very light throttle. don't you think

Oh crap, now i don't know, maybe i better let somebody else do this

ITS so hard to tell without hearing it in person....here is bout all i can tell you, if its not electrical, if its missing and jerking it very well could and injector dripping cause it wore in check valve/seat and not closing all the way. this would be noticeable at extended periods of low to no throttle. the nozzle will drip fuel into combustion chamber its not burning this will cause blue smoke, if you don't have smoke this is probably not the issue..it should smoke and idle rough after it sets overnite till you run it down the road and it burns off the fuel. another thing you might want to consider is valve adjustment,,,I MEAN THEY WOULD HAVE TO BE WAY OFF BUT ITS POSSIBLE IF THEY'VE NEVER BEEN ADJUSTED LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND

OK,,,, HOLD IT.. i thought it was just like a short pause or heekup ....I guess i have totally misunderstood you. still ...I really don't see it being an injector unless it miss especially when cold, and smoke,,,does it run and idle smooth when your lugging around and it act up do you see any smoke,,this is important

OK, nick, i know your on here, What say you I sure hat to mess up, but i think i can do it, its that park stem that everybody keeps mentioning that worries me