rburks

YOU still running hx35...I remember you had turbo problems and wondering if you replaced it with some'm else. what happened to your Signature

I think when i finally get around to getting it off and replaced, I'm gonna swing by the Body Shop that installed it and leave it hang'n ON THE FRONT DOOR

MINE TRIGGERED AND ENGAGED WHEN ENGINE STARTS, 24/7 I HATE THAT P.O.S

i just thought of something, may not be worth much "But here goes Do you still have all your clamps and isolators on your injector lines???? The only time I've seen this myself is when somebody has had line off and didn't bother to put back some or none of the clamps/isolators

AGP Turbo Man Im sorry, i am only about 1/2hr from Wythville and 40 from Hillsville, I was in garage all day reinstalling valve body in trans and didn't see this till this morning. i had a hole set of lines and some new.. id been glade to came to ya and got you going... as I am in your neck of the woods sometimes, MT Morris, waynesburg, Indiana, Johnstown, etc..

I Agree w/AH64ID.. what he explained perfectly make complete sense. IF 180* THERMOSTAT just barely reaches the trigger temp for ECM to engage FAN into low/half speed "SOMETIMES" your gonna see a higher average temp with a 180* tstat than with a 190* with the 190 degree the fan will run more often especially at 100%. and it will reach trigger temp real quick and temp will fall bac to190-200 probably without notice

i was needing it for torx screws thanks anyway

Well I Guess you all are right about the buckets, That blue one(little taller} holds just little over 4gal and the orange about 3gal Guess I'm not accounting for spilling more than i thought when i take hose lose from block.. but I'm still putting in 7gal thats going somewhere.

Well IDK, Not an expert on bucket volume, but i Know that when I've Had Radiator drained and or removed hoses off and left to drain couple days that i will have to put 7-Gal of coolant back in to put it back full, sometimes over 7, but maybe some of that gets pass to the overflow jug on side IDK.. Trans listed at 10-12 qt. also but i put 9-in last nite after pan and valve body have been dropped for a day and a half ...thats with a triple disk T/C

I noticed you listed Mopar OEM. the OEM balljoints are the same size in a 3500 DRW and 2500 as came in 1500 . they are crap,... i didn't get 70,000 on my first NOW// i will say this, i had all new HD Moog installed bout 2-yrs ago and had to replace bottom right side 6-months ago. The shop warrantied it and said it was because the mechanic that originally installed them over tight/n the top ball joint...Sooo i don't know, maybe your right about MOOG, They are supposed to be improved design over OEM Veridic still out for me on MOOG WHAT IS A GOOD NAME BRAND REPLACEMENT EXCLUDING BUDGET???

IT takes 2-5gal buckets to drain/flush my sys complete. 1-bucket will be full pretty much to top and the other will be a little better than half CHECK OUT THE PICTURE;...Look at the buckets in the left background, can't really see orange one that good but it is FULL-=and as you can see the blue one is about half full http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/document031.jpg

You might be right for 5spd, But if His Auto is like mine an has the big factory trans Aux.cooler on bottom pass. side of engine block then no, it won't. This was a factory option for towing

still trying to load pictures of the accumulator

Well Guys, i finally got the valve body out and changed out the 3-4 Accumulator assembly done tonight. after driving down the road a couple of shot trips i can definitely tell a difference. It wasn't really as bad as i thought it would be but i did take out some of the torx screws before i figured out they didn't need to be removed. other than that it went pretty smooth

no thanks thou, i couldn't find anything definite for 47RE, I WENT WITH 60 inch/lbs. i seen it some where for #25 torx bolts in valve body..

i don't think so, id drop at least 5 gal. IVE never not been able to get the injector lines off with a 19mm wrench. maybe rounded off at the corners of the nut

here is a photo of the Accumulator: well I can't get the link to work... ill keep trying

I've been allover the web and can't find sh@$t about the torque spec fot these bolts

53-71 in/lbs sound right

what about the torx-25 bit screws,,,,i took a few out by mistake

.NEED TO KNOW TORQUE SPECS ON VALVE BODY BOLTS......

CTcummins24V... Yes, i do.. but ill post later ,,,,got too much ATF+4 on my hand rt now ....NEED TO KNOW TORQUE SPECS ON VALVE BODY BOLTS

YOU Talking about the seal between vacuum pump and P/S pump???? if so do a search , i think the guys name was gould or GOULDS Cummins seal fix Here you go: http://www.fixinrams.com/ tried to post link, but it is http://www.fixinrams.com

Guys, I have updated thIs Write up over in rthe TRUCK ARTICLES SECTION with some Part numbers that have changed or been replaced, as well as "ADDED" information to answer a lot of your alls questions regarding this MOD. Most important = The relays w/diode are no longer available at least from My knowledge bur they are in 30Amp version which will be fine as it is still way over need amperage needed. The diode "IS NOT REQUIRED" But is a safety to keep EF back thru system. New part numbers are listed in edited original write up over in the Articles section Ive been running this system for over 4-yrs now and it works flawless with not one problem to date, not even replaced a fuse or relay. I can't believe the difference in lights. i Have a 2011 FORD F150 I BOUGHT NEW and i keep complaining about the lights ,{even took it back to dealer when first bought it},, wife and dad says its just me cause I'm used to the lights on my Dodge. IF You all have any further questions please don't hesitate to send PM

Guys, I have updated thIs Write up with some Part numbers that have changed or been replaced, as well as "ADDED" information to answer a lot of your alls questions regarding this MOD. Most important = The relays w/diode are no longer available at least from My knowledge bur they are in 30Amp version which will be fine as it is still way over need amperage needed. The diode "IS NOT REQUIRED" But is a safety to keep EF back thru system. YOU CAN USE STANDARD SPST RELAYS. I PREFER DUAL 87 OUTPUTS BUT YOU CAN USE SINGLE 87 OUTS YOU WILL JUST HAVE TO SPICE THEM TOGETHER A SPDT RELAY W/87# &87A OUTS WILL NOT WORK ON THIS HARNESS New part numbers are listed in edited original write up