rburks

anybody ever heard of this . Or does anybody have one???http://gopointtech.com/products/. from the info on the website it sounds like it be pretty sweet

Has anyone tried to do the 3GEN MOD and put the battery up on the fender and swap the air filter to the front for forced cooler air?????

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but why would a harness run from headlight switch to a aftermarket trailer brake box...its activated by the brake light switch... don't make sense maybe I'm missing something

7psi fuel pressure is low, is this @idle or WOT??? IF THIS IS AT IDLE YOUR PROBABLY DOWN TO 3-5PSI @WOT... with STOCK CARTIER PUMP....... May not be your issue now but it will almost certain to be 1 in the future

did that take care of your vibration ??

THOSE 6.7 4TH GEN IS THE CATS MEAOWW ..if it weren't for all that emissions dpf, erg crap...

picture's please....

I do appreciate the info you all posted, don't feel as ignorant about HID projectors now anyway.. and you got me wanting to go search the junkyards for a set OEM Housings to cut open ... I MEAN heat and pry open

I KNOW , JUST MESS'N WITH YOU..HAA.HA

it actually idles, runs and feels smoother and quiter

MICHAEL,, IM GLAD YOU POSTED THIS, i pondered for a good while if it was just me or if it was real, i can tell a difference when i get fuel and don't put in the 2-stroke, i try and not do that but it has happened a time or two with me forgetting and not having any.

That ford v10 is pretty good engine though, just has a heathy appetite for Gas, =8MPG towing but anymore gas is cheaper than diesel so it may =out

i could be wrong but i think maybe your truck had maybe minor issues, like maybe valves needed adjusted or injectors, i say this cause i bought mine it had 40,000miles and it was noisier then than now at 150,000... reading this post reminds me of just how it rattled and knocked at idle and low throttle but don't recall it being noticeable at highway speeds even towing or hauling.. these 24valve knock and rattle at idle. low rpm. but most of that clears out about 1500-2000rpms

whats a dually adapter, they just slide up on the wheel studs don't they??

you have a DRW Right, so you have disk on rear or drum?? mine is 2002 3500DRW and it has Disk.. just wandering if these were rotors your using on back

I don't know about that.....im pretty satisfied with my setup, can't see ripping something out thats working REALLY well.'IDK, They have to be really good..maybe if i hadn't already dropped the coins for the mopar sports id be inclined to maybe try it. I'm sure they would be good after seeing the links you provided....I GUESS I've spent enough now on LIGHTS for my "Crummy 2nd GEN"

IVE got a buddy with a 98"2GEN and wants me to help him upgrade lights but wants HID's instead of sports, reason for all the questions

IS IT BETTER TO BUY ALL morimoto components or are there better manufactors for certain components,,,

IDK, Still.., you have to hack open a set of light housings,,and for most of us thats when we've through in the towel to finally do something about the piss poor lights is when the housings are yellowed and glazed over. So you would have to buy a set of housings and then heat / Melt / Cut or what ever you have to do to get them apart. ..No Doubt the Light output is phonemail and really makes your truck look more modern,,but i don't see me cutting into a set of 400.00 light housings anytime soon..IMHO how do you know what projectors to get?????t,,,are they all HID.?????. What about BULBS?????? This is a whole new world of headlight upgrades Nick,,,, this is very intimidating for Most of us even someone like me who is pretty decent at wiring and D/C electrical overall.. You should do a article on this explaining this;;;; like the projectors and sizes need per housing size, various bulb outputs and contrast's to lumens vs Color, ....ballast , etc... oh yeah//i almost forget the most important thing,,HOW TO OPEN UP THE OEM HOUSING WITHOUT DESTROYING IT

Where can i get thEsE "HID ENGINEERED PROJECTOR HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY'S" ???

where they aftermarket, ?? i first had aftermarket Sports cause i bought New and cheep, didn't make it around 1-yr give or take...fogged up on inside terrible from l moisture getting in, took them out and checked but could never find the leak, never did see like actual water inside just condensation

THATS OK, I FOUND IT ON PREVIOUS PAGE, DONT KNOW HOW I OVERLOOKED IT

a mechanic for OEM dealership or a local garage, every min. of every hour is Billed out from time THEY punch in till they clock out,, I've seen this play out to many times.. if they got a guy who just finished a differential rebuild, an at 12;00 and your truck is sett'n there to have head gasket replaced, even though he has only experience in diff, trans, drivline,etc... they will clock him in on your truck sure as shoot'n..guaranteed.. If they don't have any where else to put him. I Mean somebody's going to pay that guys hours for the rest of the day,, you think the stealership going to pay it out of there pockets,,WRONG

TRY YOUR WIPER SWITCH on the stalk , there bad to ground out and do this. try gnu wire from switch and see if it is hot

NO, on the contrary, IF A PERSON IS ASE CERTIFIED DOESN'T MEAN HE OR SHE DONT KNOW WHAT THERE DOING .....BUT....JUST BECAUSE THEY ARE ASE CERTIFIED DONT MEAN THEY DO KNOW EVERYTHING EITHER ... IF THERE certified in GM, Buick V6 AND V8 ENGINES They don't need to be troubleshooting power stroke diesel engines and charging them 100.00per hr and taking much more time to do it and throwing parts at it.. .IMHO