rburks

Mikes right,injector or VP O rings, Although a bad injector dripping will put fuel in oil via top of cyl. and wash down int crankcase and its visible on dipstick, I've never seen it amount to the extreme over fullness your describing..and you should have had a miss and smoke like a coal train in the mornings when first started.. IM leaning toward injector Orings or VP Big Oring

Seams like I've heard of this happening before with type of fix only another company, Sun coast IIRC. can't remember what exactly went wrong but seams it was a step in the wiring they missed

did you just tap into the orange/bl and the black/tan wires or did you cut them into???

what ever is causing the codes is causing your4-gear hunt, either Bad APPS OR wiring issue.. I would try checking your ground connections for your APPS AND PCM... i had a issue of 4-gear Hunt bout 2-months ago. i just happened to notice that the braided GND wire strap from the PCM mounting Screw was going up to the firewall and that screw WAS corroded with green corrosive..and the terminal end was almost into, 50% at least. I WAS not SURE and am still not sure if this was the way it came from OEM or someone done it prior to me getting the truck, but it didn't look right to me so i made a new 10 ga. wire lead w/soldiered ends and ran it to negative battery lead post on inner fender beside passenger battery. this is the same as direct to BATT- cause theres a lead on this same post that goes to battery terminal.. FIXED MY PROBLEM INSTANTLY,, SO IM GONNA AGREE WITH MIKE, KNUCKLE DOWN AND FIND THE PROBLEM AND FIX IT FOR GOOD,,THESE BAND-AID FIXES USUALLY DONT WORK FOR VERY LONG AND POP BACK UP WHEN YOU LEAST EXPECT IT.

Yes, just leave off the 2-9007 headlight Plugs and harness

KYcummins5.9 I Think your problem is you have couple of your - #86 Trigger wires crossed, i think some how when you turn fog lights on its completing the ground circuit....keep in mind thats whats being switched by FL switch/HL switch to OEM HL plug back. the #86 wires are ground- wires, the relays are switched by removing or adding GND- circuit.. in the OEM plug you have 3 wires 2-are HB GND AND LB GND, the other is +Positive all the time switched . Its really pretty simple once you've figured it out. I Stand Corrected : DRACOZNY's Diagram For HID projectors will work for your sport HD app. the #30 outputs threw me there for a while cause default protocol is #30 IS primary voltage from BATT+ AND #87's are outs. but after testing an SPDT relay in the garage i see it will switch that away. So i guess you have fixed the issue by adding wire , as of now your fogs will work on HB & LB but if you ever wish to fix it back factory i would check the #86 wires

CHECK OUT MY ARTICLE OVER IN THE TRUCK ARTICLES SECTION "SPORT HEADLIGHT HD CONVERSION" The title is a little mis-leading kinda.. I MEAN i installed the OEM Sport headlights AND THEY ARE Awesome but THE HD CONVERSION HARNESS IS THE REAL HERO.... CHANGING AND TRYING ALL THE DIFFERENT HEADLIGHTS IN THE WORLD IS NOT GOING TO GET YOU PAST THE JOKE OF A WIRING SYSTEM THESE TRUCKS HAVE TO THE LIGHTS.. The difference you would still see with even with your stock lights would be impressive to say the least if you didn't wanna buy the sports. WIRING IS SIMPLE AND THE SAME AS MY ARTICLE, JUST LEAVE OFF THE 9007 HEADLIGHT PLUG ****and you would only need relays with 1-87 out unless you wanted to use the dual 87 out relays incase yo wanted to upgrade to Sport headlights later YOU STILL HAVE TO USE SPST SINGLE THROW RELAYS. SPDT DOUBLE THROW RELAYS WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY WITH THIS HARNESS ASSEMBLY

YEP.....THAT looks familiar......Now i know why this guy couldn't get his Indicator light to go Off on HB

is it posted on here somewhere cause if it is I'm overlooking it

that shiny compressor housing looks KILLER on that Flat black

are there still 1-nite a week for chat night ??? rburks

KOOL"" Cant wait to see it

I HAVE an ATS Pulse flow 3 piece mnf too. i installed it when i done my turbo so i never really doubted the hype cause there wasn't really no way for me to know for sure except to remove and reinstall my old one and i d$m sure wasn't gonna do that

I would be happy to help, if needed

I think this absolutely needs to be done differently than previous Articles, Justice would not be done to the WEALTH of great information housed in this thread. I think a lot of information will get lost in the Basic Traditional format, you no" trying to summarize it". I would go with A layout such as chapter and page's with using attached links to each segment of the rebuild Like maybe the TITLE would be "5.9 Cummins Bullet Proof Rebuild" This would be the Pinned Article page Then the link or icon WHICH REFERS to attached article segments stored in Photo bucket, iCloud ,etc..for each segment "Chapter of the rebuild like 1. REMOVAL FROM TRUCK 2. ENGINE BLOCK DISSEMBLED ​ 3. "STARTING BACK TOGETHER" ENGINE BLOCK REBUILD Reinstall RODS AND MAINS Bearings, and CRANK REINSTALL CAM bearings And cam Reinstall Tappet covers reINSTALL front timing and accessory Gears reinstall fnt timing gear case assembly List of UPGRADED Parts and vendors used Discussion 4. ​​CYLINDER HEAD REBUILD​​ Dissembled from block Machine work Valves Reinstalled List of upgraded parts and vendor used Discussion 5. FINAL ASSEMBLY Mating Cyl. head back to block reinstall exh. manifold Intake cover turbo ALT P/S Vacuum pump ECM VP PUMP Fuel injectors crossover tubes fuelines front gear case cover Thermostat housing assem waterpump FAN 6. ENGINE REINSTALLED BACK INT TRUCK **note**some Discussion and explanation of upgraded parts used like why you choose them over other choices and maybe a few reply's and post from members,...in regards"only to the topic of the discussion of that "SEGMENT.

I've changed 2-3 VP's and all had the key's were tight to the point i didn't mess with it. i mean it was easy to tell it wasn't going anywhere, "I think that because this was a real issue in the beginning that Most OEM BOSH Rebuilders glue or do something now to hold them in place. Like Mike stated above "The danger is not when sliding it in the first time, it's pulling it back to get it to line up after the key has started into the spline in the Gear and wedged a little tight that causes it to pull free from shaft and then fall out of the Gear into front timing gear case,, IMHO.. One of those mirrors on the telescoping handle really is handy doing this.

COOL Let us Know how it does, and give us an update when you hook up to trailer

Any way to convert to standard set-up????

No, Intake boot looked fine, i checked for rub marks or holes all around it.....AHH, I' don't remember seeing anything like that, only way that could've happened is the body shop had it off and had it just laying in front of it and started it....AND JUDGING from history its certainly possible.. ill check it agin she i remove the turbo

Well, i think he said they would get it back out repaired or replaced with new in 1 2-days depending on how i ship it and time of day they receive it. I JUST TICKLED PINK THEY ARE FIXING IT PRO-BONO..All i have to pay is shipping each way

GUYS, Good News........ I Called Jeff at ATS Diesel," Yesterday to Arrange shipping My turbo Back to them and inquire how much it was gonna cost to repair "Approximately" As Warranty {time} has ran out on My turbo for some time. He Replied that if i sent it back to them "THEY WOULD FIX OR REPLACE IT FREE OF CHARGE"... I liked to have dropped the phone.....wasn't expecting that at all..... wHAT A GREAT COMPANY..THATS WHAT I CALL PRODUCT SUPPORT

Never a bad idea to recheck, nor really that bigger deal

No, i don't think there's any issue, as long,,(as you said above} keeping the stock check valve at the pump, cause that is not just an ordinary cheek valve, its maid to "pilot" open at 14psi IIRC

I've been running EDGE Juice withe A-Pillar mount monitor w/gauges for 5-6yrs.. No problems, so far, ..i really like it ,,it doesn't really take up a lot of space, its easy to see without being in the way and noticeable if that makes sense...