Dieselfuture

P.s. I would wait on vp, no reason to change it if it's still kicking. I almost changed mine tracing my problem and glad that I didn't, never know new one can have a bad computer in a year or sooner.

I don't know if this will help at all, but I had a miss that went on for few years, finally listened to all smart people on this site and changed injectors and immediately miss was gone. But my truck only did it when pulling trailer and putting load on it. But a year or so went by and I just experienced same miss last time pulling. Really pissing me off. So yeah it's hard to believe new injectors can be bad but I don't see another reasonable explanation. I've done almost all tests to eliminate sensor and vp problems and it lead to replacing injectors. And now I just haven't had time to call dap and see if they can test their rebuilt 60hp injectors correct problems if any and see if it does it this time. I hope they do as they have good reputation. Good luck with your problem, I feel your pain.

I had axle rebuilt at Sadler power train and they also packed bearing with what looked like Vaseline and when I asked why it's all in oil anyway they said it was for brake in time and eventually oil will brake down grease and it will be fine. I'm guessing if a guy is just readjusting old bearing oil would be fine and if you put new bearings in maybe should go with special grease.

I got ISS pro from genos last year and love them ev white face black letters all mechanical, but egt has got a electronic box that I put under dash, and I told them to keep isolator for fuel gauge and got some money off total price. I just run needle valve and ran 1/2 inch hose through firewall to the gauge so if line ever leaks it will drip out side of interior.

Yes that's how I had that hose, was long enough to stretch under wiper on windshield. Good point on contaminated fuel, but every time I chek fuel/water separator no moisture at all comes out. I drain some in clean glass jar. What's wired is as soon as I changed injectors problem went away with same tank of fuel, and after about 3 thousand miles it came back out of nowhere. I haven't called DAP yet but I'm thinking about it. P.S. I just got this old bit up 12 valve and been driving it daily, getting attached to it now. Also on last tank I got 21 mpg and it's got small tires and 4.10s. Thinking getting an older suburban in good body shape and putting this 12valve and nv4500 in it. My biggest problem is time, don't have a lot of it now being married and having kids.

I did this trick with clear hose on windshield and pulled a trailer and no air was in it, not even tiny bobbles. I puy it in just after my tee for fuel gauge, about foot away from vp. Maybe I didn't do that test right.

If I can make something and not buy it, I do. That way I can say made in USA. Like many parts on my truck, and house.

I thought about it too, but I can hold 30 psi steady on hill and boost gauge is smooth and not jerky, same with fuel pressure. Stays right at 18-19 with load on engine and 30 psi. I never pressure tested air system but I did check all clamps and boots.

You are right about that, I took a day off work today so I can make some progress on it. Everything that I looked at needed attention, fuel pressure was at 10 stretched return spring and it's at about 25 now, waste gate was leaking boost so I don't think pump was advancing or whatever that boost hose does that goes to injection pump. Valves were out of adjustment about 6 to 10 thousands one was like 20 that's over required setting. Fuel lines were leaking in several spots and quick connects on module were rotted, ran new lines and modified module with some jic fittings, fixed fuel gauge, Idle was at about 400-500 got it to 800, fuel heater was leaking from plug, threw it away, all vents were clogged, I don't think this guy did anything at all to it. But that's why I got an ok deal on it too. Going to test drive it this weekend hope I won't find anti thing else that's way out of wak.

Got new cam sensor in last year, I'll try again unhooking everything and see what happens, thanks for advice.

Tach does bounce a little, (start with new tech?) I did unplug everything had to do with quad and the miss was still there just more faint, I haven't messed with EB but might give it a try. Thanks.

Body is pretty ruff, rockers are gone and fenders are going. Cab mounts are so so, I've driven worse but it's on the way out, it will last the way it is for few more years. I'm thinking fixing it up a bit just so I can do all the mods I want to it, that way later if I find another truck I like, I can swap it out with less fixing. I think I found most of oil leaks, you right valve covers leak like crazy, tappet cover has chunks missing, front cover seeps some, but non of it is horrible because after driving it up on trailer it didn't drip any oil yet. But being under it I noticed between bell housing and motor there is a small gap maybe 1/4 inch for inspection or oil drain for rear seal when it goes, anyway in that gap I observed a small spring maybe 1" long and just big enough I can't get it out of that gap, plus it looks like there is pieces of something flat and black looked like clutch disk chunks, but clutch seems to work fine and guy said it's almost brand new. Maybe it's pieces of old clutch never got cleaned out not sure. If I have to drop tranny more likely I'm parting this thing out and keeping what i need. Time will tell.

I've been having problems with my truck which might be related to a bad vp44 pump, I have a question for you how do you know vp is bad? Just because of codes or does it have driveability issues? Does it surge at all on highway speeds with load on engine? I'm baffled with problem I got and just don't want to throw money on unneeded parts. Thanks for any replays.

Ok this is pissing me of now, from last update I thought I cured problem with these 60hp injectors from DAP and just today coming home with a truck I just bought and trailer maybe 8-9k total pulling weight surging problem came back . Not sure if injectors craped out or it was never injectors in first place. I might just fix up this 12 valve I just got and kick vp44 truck down the road. Frustrated. At least if I had codes saying bad vp I'd buy one tomorrow but don't want to throw money away like I just did on injectors, plus my old ones were better for power an mpg, I seem to only get 10-12mpg now with 60hp and was getting 12-14 with old ones, towing.

Funny thing I had a miss for a long time, could never figure it out, no codes and runs fine when not loaded but with a trailer behind I get a steady miss at about 60mph. So after talking with a hole lot of people, most suggested injectors, so I got a set of 60hp from dap and behold the miss is gone. Now today I pull a trailer again with 6k truck on it and the miss came back, might have to call dap and see what they say.

Ok I just bought this truck, it is pretty rusty but I got it for $2400. I did drive it and al gears shifted fine, he said at 70k hi had to fix 5th gear and never happened again. Clutch is from dodge dealer few years ago and supposedly only has few thousand miles on it. Engine is covered in oil top to bottom, looks like everything is leaking on it. But it fires right up if you hold go pedal a little otherwise just cranks and aventualy fires up but idles at about 500. There is defenetely not a lot of power but you can hear turbo spool and blow off, sounds normal. Heater core leaks, front end doesn't engage, most joint are shot, fuel guage don't work, fuel lines are almost rotted through just like brake lines, at this point not sure if it's worth fixing it up a bit or putting this drivetrain in a suburban or something like it. Any thoughts?

Thanks that's the answer I was looking for, but I really want to keep it and make it my toy with bigger tires and some lift so it's still legal on road and I can drive it to go fishing and to work, truck I got now is to nice yet to put dents in and I'm hoping someday my kid wold love to have it. I think it will still be a cool truck to have 10 years from now.

Thanks for the offer on the cab, if anyone else is intrested in bying it dont wait on me as i dont know which route ill take yet. Guy just send me some pictures and its realy rusty, rockers and cab corner are gone, interior is dirty, but its got 8foot box and extended cab. Whats left anyways.

[quote name="flagmanruss" post="98082" timestamp="1412212634" It runs just supposedly doesn't have as much power, I'm going to go look at it this weekend, didn't know 53 blocks were on 12valves, I'll have too look really close because he said it's covered it grit and oil. He said harem is good just body is bad. Let's see... Does it run? Something wrong mechanical... Does it turn over? Is the oil contaminated? What block is it? 53 block? Is it cracked? and rotted out body. How's the frame & things that rust out like front spring seats on the front axle (4x4) and the u-bolt plates under the rear axle (all rusted out on mine). I would use the poor condition to beat him up on the price. Really buying a pig in a poke...

I'm looking to buy another truck for daily use and more abuse then the one I got, found one on line for 2700 obo. It's a 97 12 valve and all rusted out 4x4 extended cab long box, 250k nv4500 haven't been driven much lately guy says it lost power a few years back and he just parked it. I asked him if he checked fuel pressure and he said no. An older guy that just doesn't care. He owned it from 99, What do you guys think, maybe if I can't get it running cheap, then it should worth that in parts? But I would love to get it going and drive it daily. Basically I want to have a bitter truck and see if I can get it 1000000 ml.

I just put 60hp from dap in and I had 75hp before. Noticeable power difference but not huge, next time I'm going back to 75hp, will try these out for a while I think I did gain 1or2 mpg but I also put a bit smaller tire so... I know for sure rv275 won't satisfy me anymore and in future if I get bigger turbo I'm looking at 150hp maybe. But as of now I'm not disappointed with 60hp just when you had something bigger, hard to go backwards.