Dieselfuture

It was an unopened jug clean looking and he said they got a bunch in back and add it in before truck dumps it's fuel in and that trucker is the one that does it, and will put as much additive in as needed for load. It's cum and go and only few years old has 4 diesel pumps 4 e85 pumps and about 12 regular pumps.

Jug he showed me said Power Service treats 1500 gallons. Regular white jug with black writing on it. I couldn't find where it said anything on temperature ether.

I just put 25 gallons of 5-20% bio in my truck and went to talk with clerk, I asked them again about what temperature their fuel is good for and they didn't know this time, ( the other day it was -20f different guy at counter) but he was nice enough to go to back room and grab a big jug and show it to me. It was regular white color power service, just in 2.5 gallon. He said driver comes in back door and grabs what he needs and dumps it in according to what's on the truck. Next question to Mike, I know you say it's not good to mix PS and 2cycle oil so I stooped doing that in the winter, but little that I knew it's already in fuel for winterizing. And my guess is that other stations also put PS in to treat fuel, whether it's bio or not. I know that there is no reason putting 2cycle in bio but if regular #2 gets treated with PS then how bad is it to add 2cycle to it?

Just stopped at place I usually fill up and asked them about temperature that their fuel is good for and they said -10f, well I think it's their wishful thinking because in 0 it was getting cloudy. We should be in teens and 20s for a while I'm thinking about using bio that says 5-20% bio on pump and clerk told me it was good to -20f which is hard to believe. Funny thing is about 2 years ago same station didn't specified what % bio it was and then I questioned them, they said 2-5% bio and now 2 years later they got a sticker on pump saying anywhere between 5-20% bio.

I think I got it about 1/16 toe in front, seems better than 3/8 that it was before, and doesn't pull right as much now. Read on other site that for some reason some of these trucks like to pull right a little so I'm not going to worry about it for now. Sure glad I didn't pay shop to do my alignment its really not that hard, in fact it's easy. I'm going to keep an eye on tires for wear and mpg and see what happens. Thanks for tips.

Thanks for input but I'm going to try research it a bit more, I thought with tow in it will steer to fast or something like that, maybe feel unstable, but I guess 1/8 shouldn't matter much. I know for handling I was told toe out in front 1/8. But in my opinion 0 won't wear tires funny.

Thanks the for link, but i didn't seem to see any numbers on how much tow in or out just that 1/32 is close enough.

On a 4x4 I only see two adjustments for alignment, one next to gear box ( gets steering wheel straight) and the other by passenger side ( does tow in out ), if you don't count control arm adjustment. Am I missing anything? I measured tire tread front and back on level ground and my toe was in the front (both tires pointing in) so I adjusted it a bit and now it measures almost exact front to back before I had just over 1/4" longer in back. Anyone know where tow needs to be 0 or +- . Also why would truck pull right even in left lane if only one adjustment for tow, so no mater what, both tires should split difference equal and steering wheel would be off to left or right. After I got tow adjusted better to center it seemed to help from pulling right but still does it.

Not sure how much this will help but when I got my truck it had bad track bar so I got one and went to put it in and had to jack the truck up for bolts to line up, after install I let jack out and truck stayed up what that told me is front spring sagged enough and track bar needs to be shorter for axle and frame to be lined up, that's when I took it back and modified my old one. Made it adjustable with bushings on both ends. Now that I put plow springs on for my new front bumper all I did is took it out made it longer by unscrewing it and put it back in. That's why factory track bars wear quick after truck gets older when truck settles down a bit it always puts pressure on that ball joint on the track bar and shoves your front end towards passenger side. And if you put 2" leveling kit it will suck front end more to driver side. Adjustable track bar is the way to go.

I ended up getting this one, http://www.amazon.com/KDLINKS®-X1-Dashboard-Camcorder-G-Sensor/dp/B00N8BM0BU But there are other once bit cheaper with good quality. On mine I like the fact that it has motion detection but something really has to be moving in front of it to get it to start recording, that option is only when the truck is untended, but over all it's got good picture and somewhat easy to use. Manual is not as helpful but you'll figure it out. Also look at the way they mount m3 or suction cup, the one in the link comes with 2 suction cups and also rotates it is tiny and has screen saver so after few minutes screen shuts off and doesn't bother driver. I know people with cheap ones that work and it's ok for general use but if you want detail spend more money.

I'm going to try clear coating mine when it gets worm, as how I clean that nasty film off I use hard core carb cleaner that eats plastic and a good rag that doesn't shed, you will only have one or two tries at it and then will have to wait for plastic to get hard again otherwise rag will stick to it. I usually spray it on rag and use long swipes across a head light than spray some more on and go over again and then stop messing with it, can always come back later. Try it on your wife's car firs to make sure it works.

I got mine from ebay also no stamps of china anywhere but no dodge ones ether. I think they came with back support brackets! But you shouldn't need them as you can reuse yours. Had them for 3 years now seems ok. Couldn't tell you difference from stock ones I had regular small mirrors.

Sounds like these days everybody is out for blood so I guess it doesn't meter, money will talk at that time. If you're broke probably be screwed ether way. I got bumpers I made front and back and I drive slower than most and learned my lessons then I was younger, so hopefully if someone hits me my bumpers will help and I'm going to continue use cushion as I drive and try not to hit anyone. Plus I invested in good qwality dash cam, hopefully will never have to use it as proof but sure is a good backup. Maybe I'll get a shot of meteor one day. P.S. I had a few Duce and half's and trying to get them registered was a pain, I had to prove to dot that they were legal and even then they gave me titles and notice that if for some reason in future they fill otherwise they have full right to take titles away. Took me just over a year to get it done and almost made me pay sales tax again after I payed it to government site I got them from.

I'd have to agree on 4.5 beefing better, with 3.5 it be like driving a golf cart. I had few hydraulic steering set ups on my toys and one time tried a helm that had big pump on it and all it took to fully turn was 1.5 or so man it was scary. I changed it soon after.

That bring another question, are aftermarket bumpers legal? They are at least 3/16 or 1/4 so you temper with factory bumper that is meant to collapse and absorb, what trouble a guy can get with beefy bumpers? Damn hijackers...

Man I'd love to have a set of them free spinners but for the price of $1700 I might just find a used 79 d60 out of ford with king pins and rebuilt it and put leaf springs in front. More work but might be cheaper or same price if a guy gets lucky, then parts would be more available, and going to leaf springs might help in certain way. I was thinking about it some day sooner or later will have to dump money in front end might as well convert. But right now just dreaming.

Don't forget to flush your lines and cooler just in case. P.S. I love my stick but hate to think of the cost to rebuilt. Might do it myself if I ever need to.

Wait for more replys as it might be a simple fix. But yea sit happens.

Maybe pump is going out, it would make since gets warmer and clearances get bigger pressure drops, just guessing.

Ok just drove it today, everything seems to work. Guy got get lucky once in a while.

Just curious how exactly does it idle up, does it use apps somehow and injects more fuel.

Just FYI, when I took my carpet off I noticed that all of the rust was forming under soundproofing and seems that got some sort of caulking on it. I scraped all of it off and sand blasted entire floor and also piled that crap of of carpet and power washed it too, all it did is trapped moisture. You might not have that problem but I'm sure glad I cut mine in time. And getting rid of all that didn't really make it much noisier inside.

When you say miss at all rpm that means even before it starts to boost so you can rule out turbo and boost leaks, and if engine checks out good the only thing left is really fuel. And if injectors is not the cause how good is the place that tested vp. Other than that maybe valves or valve seats or even head gasket. And maybe when you did tests it's cold and doesn't leak, and if it gets to higher temps is when it happens. Man I really want to know what it is now. It's bugging me.

Here we go again, only 16F out this morning and my fuel is cloudy, and I have about 1/4 mix of suggested on label power service 911. So I'm done buying fuel at regular convenient stores and will have to drive extra 10-15ml or so to a truck station. We'll be seeing -25F on Wednesday with wind chills as low as -40 I think I'll be seeing a few diesel trucks on the side of the road. Hoping my gasser starts to get me to work. This brings another question at what temperature do batteries frieze and lose charging abilities, and would it help to put a charger on them when extremely cold out or just as easy take them out and bring them inside.