Dieselfuture

I'm using 17's off of 2012 and front breaks off of 2004, love it.

Yeah the first month or so, now it's life like for everyone else. Up down up down etc, she'd actually think that it's for the best and nice for a change that her vehicle is getting attantion too. So even if it looks worst then before you can always say but honey I meant to do good and see I'm not only working on my truck all the time.

Yeah but maybe good time to upgrade or clean them, set of orings and copper washers isn't that much. And like old ford said you'll make sure it's at tdc.

Sounds possible, maybe put some air in injector hole to keep valves up. Done it on gassers many times. Go thought firing order.

I like the whole tub idea out older truck, I had some aluminum old signs from work and that's what I made my cover from. Ever sience I've done my module mod I had no regrets so far works great, key is, in and out in 1/2" and keep it only 1/2" of the bottom otherwise it will foam if you just dump return line in basket it's got to be low to bottom. I did some bucket tests with it before finally realizing that diesel fuel foams if just dumped in.

Not to argue with you but You ever siphon gas out of any car or truck? If the line is in the tank and primed and full of fuel and the other end is below upper level of fuel in tank it will come out. Done it many times, that's part of the reason I have ball valves on inlet and return to my fuel basket, that way when I unscrew the filters all I do is close both valves and fuel stays in the tank and not all over me.

I like my new FASS and where it's located, it's completely covered with box and you cant see it from out side. Also I don't know if I would put it in the box it self, because it would be above fuel tank and will have to work harder, when it's below tank fuel gravity flows to pump and then pump pushes it forward.

I was told long time ago " The longer you wait to fix something, the easier it will be to diagnose the problem".

I guess if there is a seal there should be a grove, maybe they used better seal back then. And if so I would love to know what kind of seal it is.

So what seporatets electric motor and fuel?

I can't believe seal on you're AD isn't leaking yet with all of the hours you have on it. Be interesting to see internals ones it goes bad, how bad it's grooved on shaft and brushes.

I'd say FASS also, AD customer service isn't great lately and IMO FASS is better built, it's definitely larger with bigger gear rotor and filters, also uses 1" instead of 3/4 thread for filters. I'm talking about new titanium 150, that's what I just got. One problem I had first day was ball and spring, causing pressure fluctuations at idle, called FASS and they sent me new ball and spring for free. I modified the spring so the ball doesn't sink in it. So far no problems.

same here, lubrication if you can get to it. I sprayed a whole bunch in my tailgate at different angles.

Welcome to the club of missing cummins, hope it's not your vp and you'll figure it out soon, I'm not much of the help as I joined this site awhile back because of my truck missing. Most of what I know about my truck came from here. Didn't know you could reuse copper washers.

I think they were talking about trac lock and said that they only last so long and then need to be re shimmied or replaced or it can Granade if not taken care on time. You might be right though I'm only saying what I heard.

I've talked with Sadler Power Train in town, and they said that it's common on these doges for limited slip to go out and make noise. No matter how much stuff you add, it needs to be serviced. Ether clutches need to be reshimmed or new clutches put in. Last time I checked if I brought my center section in it would be around $150 for new clutch pack installed.

That looks really nice, did you do it with plasma table?

We'll thank you but it only looks that nice in pictures, up close I barely had time to grind some edges flat, but I like the rugged look. Really with straight edge you can make pretty straight cuts with torch. The only negative thing about it is things can warp, that's where plasma would be sweet. Actually when I notched my rear bumper for license plate it bowed in middle where ends of bumper slightly came up, If I put my long level end to end there will be gap of 1/2" or so in middle. But after looking at it I noticed that when tailgate open it perfectly matches that curve, so I left it alone.

I got a mag cover on rear and I put 8 qt in of 75-110 amsoil with couple of small LS additive bottles, you'll be able to see if you got LS when you take cover off. P.S I love this mag cover been 4 years and about 15k of mostly towing and dipstick is magnetic and every time I check it barely has any black on it and oil is still clear. I also noticed pumpkin is a lot cooler, whether it's synthetic oil or the 8qt that I'm running.

No I don't, all I did when researching is googled bumper built and then spent some time browsing through, but I know for sure that I came across a couple with detailed measurements and stiles.

Thanks Mike, took a little bit of effort but it's done and something telling me they will outlast the truck.

I ended up selling both of my old bumpers for 170 so it paid for the steel and some, there are sites on line that actually give you all dimensions of their bumpers but i wanted mine a certain way. So I basically combined some ideas with mine. And mos of them are 3/16 I like 1/4

one of the reasons I did it in one piece is I'm planning on using it as an air tank, and someday will put a small air pump under bed, that way when i get air bags and just lowering air pressure in tires for off road use i can always air them back up when driving on hwy again. As of now I have a small air leak I need to trace down, it holds air for most of the day at 120psi but next day it's down to 90 in 3 days it's to 50. It's still usable the way it is.

as for the injectors all you need is to loosen one bolt for hold down that is on the left (the one that is easy to get to) slide retainer plate out that holds down injector, then take a valve cover bolt and screw it in injector put screw driver under it and pup it up. make sure you pull cross over tubes out first, after taking injection lines out in two sections, take a small flat screwdriver and carefully pop out cross over tubes. there is a whole right up on this in multiple places, some one will post it here soon.

or make sure you modify your fuel module and make outlet and return as big as you can. even that 3/8 clip on module fitting is supposed to be 3/8 but it's only 5/16 on id plastic 90's to fuel module and some places in side is down to 1/4