Dieselfuture

I'd have to agree on sampling part, but getting back from the moon I think you might be home already. According to some people on internet moon is a lot closer and might not be there as a chunk of rock in orbit at all, but rather just a facade for something behind it, I now sounds crazy but how would we know anyway. Little of subject.

I'd like to know how it works out in nv5600 I had mopar fluid at first then decided to change and didn't want to get bent over at dealer so I got pensoil sincromesh ran that for about 3k and then ended up putting 7qts of 5w30 amsoil manual sincromesh tranny fluid in, and that's what I have in it now about 20k now. All I know is nv5600 fluid is thin and has to be sincromesh, that's what I've been told. Make sure to run at least 6qts or there is a bearing up high that will burn out. Also it has a vent make sure its not plugged.

Ok so who runs CJ-4 and for how long Rotella, Delo, Valvoline.

Some days I feel that way about a lot of things.

We'll let this marinade a bit longer and see what comes out it.

Looks like it was done on older ci-4 oil and not cj-4 according to that chart. I'm wondering about newer oils that have less zinc in them. Maybe I missed something.

Thank you I got more confidence now using what ever is a good deal. As long as it's still meets the spec.

For some reason I could always fix gears and mechanical stuff but an auto is a bit different and the only one so far that I rebuilt and it didn't blow up yet is my trail truck th350. Other than that I always sold or scraped a vehicle that needed auto redone, and never lost money that way. But I'm talking about something older and maybe worth few thousand bucks not much more and when scrap metal worth risking a flat tire.

Anyone else wants to vote for adding zddp or using straight oil, so far it's 50/50, and what brand of oil. Remember mine concern is cam and lifters. I'm sure other than that oil is fine for everything else.

That sums it up for me as I know nothing about automatic trannys other then most of the time they are expensive to fix.

Sorry guys, I know it's been like a broken record, but now that some time gone by has anybody got comments on using newer stuff with less zinc and phosphor on older engines. I've been running amsoil (1400 ppm zink) for few years now and don't have any problems with it other than price and the way you got to get it if you want a half a.. deal on it. Plus I don't put enough miles on it a year to justify it anymore. Called Cummins and they use Valvoline Premium Blue in just about anything and it replaces all of the older stuff. Guy said it had 1200 ppm of zinc in it and was plenty for flat tappets, price at cummins was $14.50 a gallon. Then I called Delo and talked with their support guy and was told that their Delo 400le 15w40 is one of the best and they have billions of miles to prove it. Zinc was 1300 ppm, and price is $29 for 2.5gal at Walmart. I hear some guys run ether oil and put some zddp additive also, but not sure if it's even needed if both places told me their oil is fine the way it is. I was thinking I can still run amsoil bypass filter and change it once every 2 years and use fleet guard LF16035 for full flow. Also there is a fleet guard LF9028 that has full flow and bypass in one if I decide to get rid of amsoil bypass. Let the steam roll. Thank you all.

When I got my truck it had kn on it. I threw it out and put BHAF in using kn tubing and heat shield fits fine.

I got 75-90 in front and 75-110 in rear amsoil 4 years and about 20k now looks new still. I got mag tech in rear and been running 8qts. P. s. Make sure your vent's are clear.

Yes, but from what I read, hardware for brakes bolts right on, the only thing I'm not sure about is backing plates. I guess one way to find out. At a price of $70 for both sides it's worth the risk. If they don't fit I might modify them to fit or weld up my old ones. No way in hell I'll spend $170 for each. At $340 I can change all rear brakes to bigger stile. Probably will do it in a few months or so.

Did a little more research and not sure now if I can upgrade backing plates as the axles might be different brand altogether from 02 to 03. Sounds like brakes are upgradable but not sure about backing plates.

Yeah I seen that too, can't figure out if that's for one or for two. Sure looks like just one is $170 , they must be same side to side. I think I'm going to wait a bit and then buy rotors, pads, baking plates, and caliper brackets for an 03 and up.

I looked on quad website and didn't see anything.

Yes and no. It's for the rear, I believe it's called brake backing plate. Parking hard wear is mounted to it.

Does anyone know a good place to get backing plates. I got a 2002 D80 single rear wheel, disc brakes. Both plates are rusted out and ready to fall off. Also would a newer baking plates from 2003 up fit 2002? If bolt pattern same then I could upgrade to bigger breaks in rear. Rotors, pads/shoes, caliper mounts. I did it to my front works great, just not sure if newer backing plates fit on older axels. If I could get original plates cheap then I would stick with the breaks I got.

This thread might help, page 3 is where are some parts for Bosch which is outdated and I was told get a denso. Whatever you do don't trade yours for the one at auto parts store. Rebuilt what you got. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/5903-no-codes-but-will-surge-a-little-on-steady-hwy-speeds-or-up-hills-please-help/?hl=diode So far after fixing my alternator I had no problems surging, but 60 hp injectors from dap defiantly have less power then my old ones that were 75 to 100 hp 8 x something and mp went down hill.

Well I got to jump a car and use a winch this week and so far no problems, I didn't unplug anything. Car I jumped was a97 nissan sentra and winch might of been at a third of its capacity, pulled 68 Chevy pick up on a trailer. Hopefully it will be fine in future tasks.

I see your point. Do I need to disconnect batteries or just unplug it and then when done plug it it.

So I take it it should be fine for me to jump start other vehicles as long as it's not a semi truck and I'm the one connecting power leads. Reason I'm asking is, I ran power cables to front and back of my truck with quick connects and it's set up for jumper cables or winch. I was always skeptical on doing so but ones you mentioned grid heaters are high amps also, that makes more since now. Thanks.

Ok, sounds reassuring. I found some other trucks on line with quadzilla and winch. Hopefully I won't be posting later a used fried quad for sale. I think what I'll do is use high idle every time I'll use winch. That should keep the charging slightly higher. Thanks.

It's a 12000 lb harbor freight Badland Max amp draw is 300 at full load and 85 amps at 0 load. I'm guessing I'll be in a 200 amp range on average. On my module it says ADR 1002