Dieselfuture

Dripley got a good point, hot wire it to make sure power not getting to it is the cause before doing anything else.

I'm running 8qts in my rear with mag cover for about 20k now, mine is just above full mark. But mine might be bigger says d80 but I think it's 80 for carrier and 70 for wheel bearings. If yours is d70 might take less fluid.

I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens, but how come before i was able to get 20mpg at 65-70, the only other thing i can thin of is my home made front bumper is not as aerodynamic as the original was, and another 150 lb heavier. One more thing i changed are tires but went to a size smaller for better mpg and take offs with my 3.55 gears. So if anything my speedo should be counting more miles per gallon. I heard that when vp's get tired they waste more fuel, so would that mean it doesn't compress it as good and it's not atomizing as good? Also where do you keep your rpm closer to 1800 where the torque is?

what speed do you se 22 mpg at, and what level on tuner. I'm starting to think my vp is wearing out, but it's still seems to run well.

Maybe I got more things going on then just injectors, but I know for a fact that I lost some mpg, like I said before it's not a huge deal for a truck I don't use much but I wish I could figure out what I'm doing different to lose almost 3mpg. I tried my quad on level 1 which is supposed to be best mpg and drove 200 mile round trip going 60-65 and got 17.3 mpg empty, then I tried level 5 on a 150 mile round trip 60-65 mpg and got 16.1 mpg, then I tried level 7 another 150 mile trip same average speed and got 15.8 so it seems consistently getting lower the higher level I use. I have not tried 55 mph on any level as I don't have that much patience. I did tow our boat 200 ml one way on level 0 which is factory setting and got 13.6 mpg and on the way back had it on level 5 and got 12.5 mpg power was noticeably better but lost 1 mpg not a big deal. But I can't get my 20 mpg I did before switching injectors and that was done with 65-70 mpg on different occasions. Maude I need to plan on getting somewhere an hour later and try 55mph, according to Mike and other people that's where mpg is at, but my lieometer even though it's off by about 3-4 mpg still tells me that going 55 is less mpg then going 65.

Very nice, what is your steering upgrade? Is it from 3rd gen, or something else.

I think they were original injectors with different nozzles, but DAP couldn't tell me what they were. But for some reason wanted to keep them.

Ok I changed my injectors a few years back thinking they were causing my surging problem when towing. I think it ended up being alternator with excessive ac noise. The injectors I had were 8 holes and said bosh on them, I didn't know any better thinking they were stock I got a set from DAP that are 60hp thinking I'll be gaining some hp and mpg, And actually lost hp and mpg. And when talking to DAP they said that my injectors were not factory and couldn't use them as core so it costed me another $150, and I asked for my old injectors back and instead of my old ones they sent me another set of theirs that were new and said 75hp on the bag. So I guess I got another set of injectors for $150 that's nice but they are not 8 holes that I gave them. The ones in the truck now are still 60hp and from beginning I noticed a bit more smoke not much, but towing egt's are now higher and mpg went from 20 on hwy to 17, and 15 towing to 12.5 or so. I tried different speeds and power levels on quad, but the highest I can get out of it is about 17-17.5 empty. When I asked DAP what size were my old injectors they said about 75 hp and that's the reason for them sending me a set of 75hp. So I guess my question is do 8 hole injectors work better even though they were bigger I did 3 mpg better and had more power and less egt. Who makes a good 75hp 8 hole injectors as I'm getting ready to pull these out. Unless my vp is getting old and mpg is going down, but I noticed it right of way when changing injectors. Maybe I'm crazy, but always hand calculate my mpg and usually not that picky of mpg on a truck but I was trying to make it better not worse.

Ok so after about 200 miles I took another sample to see if TAN came down. Well looks to be about same if not higher. But TBN zink and phosphorous looks pretty good, almost like amsoil did. So I think their equipment is faulty for reading TAN because even new rotella was high.

I can't believe people still using factory lift pumps on vp44 trucks, even the ones that were upgrade from dodge to intake units were garbage too. Tell him if his planning on keeping the truck to get a fass and chase all the leaks at minimum, a fuel gauge will pay for it self in short time too.

Sounds like metal wire that float is attached to is bent down a bit, which makes it stay at full mark longer, but it would be a lof of work just to bend it. And to test it is as simple as apps or any resistor with ohm meter but I now you guys know that not trying to sound silly.

That thing is draw straw 5 http://www.vulcanperformance.com/DrawStraw-5-p/ds5qc.htm it replaces factory in tank pump. And then I made my own return. And that white stuff on top of module is jb weld fuel compatible for more strength.

I had similar thing happen to my truck when I was messing with wiring for my lift pump, and What I figured out is sometimes if I played with key to much trying to prime the pump and didn't wait for things and shut the key off and did it few times in a row my fuel pump won't run after that, like the signal wire wasn't getting juice. I just ended up unplugging batteries for a good half an hour and then resetting apps just in case, everything came back to normal.

I had a draw straw in my tank when I bought my truck, but had problems sucking air with 1/3 of tank or less so i modified my module to have 1/2" lines in and out. I got it to about 1/16 of tank and worked good. I think if you use needle valve for fuel pressure gauge it dampens the signal too much and you can't tell if you're sucking air at low fuel level, but if you crack it open more just to try it out. I'm thinking you'll see maybe needle bounce. You can see I drilled another hole on top of module and used jic fitting to a flare on inside, and using stock plastic return line from injectors and vp, Also make sure to get rid of fine screen on bottom of fuel basket, I don't explain well so hope this helps. P.S. make sure to run return pretty close to bottom or it will make lots of foam.

What's the big difference between Calcium vs Magnesium for keeping soot in suspension? Looks like Amsoil and Rotella are using more calcium and Cat oil is using both. I'm guessing it's to keep soot in suspension, and maybe acting like detergent too.

Yeah I agree, that's why I'm still determined to keep fixing it, I'm in love with the dam thing.

I'm still regrating selling my 97, (women)

Lol you made my day, when I bought my truck I also wanted something dependable to drive out of town but quickly found out that it wasn't the case. The more I got used to it the more problems I discovered and ultimately that's how I ended up on this site. Lots of knowledge here and wisdom. I don't think I'm the only one here fills that my truck hates me at times for being nice to it. I had surging problem since day one I got it and was only noticeable under load towing at 65mph. After 3 years of trying to figure it out, I believe it ended up being my alternator having access AC voltage higher than desired. After rebuild it problem seemed to disappeared for almost a year, but last time towing I felt slight surge again. But I'm not as lucky as you are to have a code, and it's been a pain in butt trying to figure it out. Wish you all the luck. You came to the right place.

That is one nice place you got up there Mike. Some day I'm hoping to get out of town and enjoy nature on daily bases.

Just put this Altorfer oil in my truck with new Donaldson full flow and overfilled oil a bit and then flushed my year old bypass filter, still flowing good oil. Took about 2 quarts to flush it half way clean, called it good. Truck seems to run fine and if anything it seems quieter. I'll drive it for a month or so and do another sample, see if TAN goes down like they said it should.

New Toyo tires I just got for my dad are also made in japan they have several locations, I just didn't know that till few days ago. Not sure if I'll buy another set of Toyo's again.

Part of the reason I bought Toyo is they were advertised as made in USA, I dint do good enough research I guess, tires do say made in USA but apparently by Japanese company. It was a bit weird that USA company would pic a oriental name but now I see why, it's not a USA company. But I got to say that Japanese are hard working people and would expect a good product from them. Times shure changed in past 20 years.

According to this chart http://www.altorfer.com/images/catfluids-oil.pdf this oil I got is only good to -9.5c and amsoil I'm using now is good to -40c I guess that's why it's almost triple the money. But it does say it can go to 500h which is way more than I need.

That's what I though, mine sounds about same. Maybe in person a guy cold tell the difference.

Sounds like a diesel, lol. Just kidding. Maybe injector?