Dieselfuture

there was no part number on wear rings and the guy I got it from just went out back and got it of the shelf. Cost me $10 out the door. Just tried downloading pictures and still same arrow message.

I tried to in one of my posts, but i'm not a good article writer. I have few pictures of parts for Bosch alternator that's the one on my truck. Tried loading pictures and the message I get is ( There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200 )

That is correct Pepsi71Ocean is right and I just confirmed it. I rebuilt my alternator last year and put new bearings, diode pack and new brushes, I did not changed slip rings and didn't realize just how worn they were till the other day. I decided to figure out why after rebuilding my alternator I still had around 0.05vac at idle and if revved up i could get it over 0.1vac. So I tried to use a small flat piece of hardened steel to get the edges rounded off and get grooves a bit smother (while it was on the truck and I could start it and get to slip rings while engine was running I was milling slip rings) , thinking it would be a lot better. After wasting about half an hour put it all back and my vac jumped from 0.05 to 0.12 at idle and 0.23 revved up. Maybe after it would all seat in new place it would come down but considering slip rings were most of the way wore, I went to local alternator place and got new slip rings for $10, took it all apart soldered it all back in place and what do you know 0.07-0.08vac on start up, then went for a ride about 10ml checked it again 0.03-0.05 vac and if I revved it up it didn't go past 0.05 where before it would get over 0.1 sometimes. So i'm hoping after some time when brushes wear to slip rings it would be down to 0.01-0.02vac. But the whole point of this, is that messing with slip rings and brushes does affect VAC. Even though diode pack should take care of it. Hope this wasn't too confusing. Tried to attach some pictures but wasn't able too.

a bolt makes since but i was talking more of a tiny leak, even a couple. I have few small ones at 20psi but i can hold 30 psi driving with no problems. I guess what i was trying to say is if at 20 psi you would push so many cubic feet of air through an opening, then that tiny small leak that just barely makes soap bubbles wouldn't even make up a small cup. but i do see your point.

Was this intentionally f uped from doge or is it somehow related to emission crap. Just wondering why engineers couldn't figure it out.

If you're just starting to figure out these vp 44 trucks, I would say main things are good lift pump, gauges, making sure there is no ac current coming from alternator, don't use k&n filter and get a bhaf or stick with factory one, good battery connections and grounds throughout, there are bunch of other things but in my opinion these are more important. Take care of these easy ones and you'll eliminate lots of bugs.

so how does retarding timing increase mpg, when my qwad says that level 1 is mpg mode and it advances timing.

if you have a small leak if it barely bubbles with soapy water does it really make a difference? There is so mach air moving through tiny little bubble shouldn't heart a thing !? or would it?

According to this website there is only one alternator available fro our truck http://allmoparparts.com/amp-parts/#parts I'm guessing you got same one? This part #5104772AA So the one you got from this website was a Denso and now they want your core or $163.85 is no core and shipped to your door?

That's why I like the draw straw5 in fuel basket set up, fuel basket moves with tank.

Just a thought, what if somehow ac voltage bleed to the truck and fry electronics? If 0.1ac volts from alternator is bad what will 110 vac do? If it's even possible.

When you do this AC test, do you check it at idle or do you rev it up? At idle after rebuilding mine I'm at 0.02-0.03 and if I rev it up I can hit 0.1 at about 2200 rpm

where did you get your denso? And how many amps, and price. Thanks.

so everything fits right in without any mods? If so that is great news in near future I'll be doing this. I'm guessing everything is much bigger but still fits in all holes? Thanks.

From hat I found out, even though our engine goes not have liner, there's still a chance to have cavitation. Better be safe than sorry. What I use now is Zerex GO5, and also got some Flletguard I might use in a future. I would not use dexcoll it causes electrolysis, too many GM cars have bad intake and head gaskets failures and when taking them apart, aluminum gets real bad corrosion. I think the only reason they use that crap is for waranty it lasts longer but causes more damage.

I wouldn't run regular green antifreeze, get something for diesel. I'm running zerex g05 right now. Not saying that's the problem but it could cause other problems.

Also use some pipe dope on all threads, even though they are jic fittings and will seal just fine, the threads them self will rust and be a bi.h to get apart later. Just don't get any inside fuel line itself. At work we do a lot of underground pipes and an old timer putting flare fittings and other fittings together always uses pipe dope, one day I asked him " what you don't trust your flare?" He looked at me smiled and said "you young bucks think you know it all ha" and about 5 minutes later said" I might not be around to fix this next time but I sure don't want you cursing me out when time comes."

That's the one that replaces your in tank pump, same one I got. I have some pictures in few posts here. I took my bed off with engine hoist and ratchet straps. Fuel module I cleaned realy good before using strap wrench to unscrew big white ring. Also I made my own return back to module in1/2 line that way I don't have pressure change from idle to wide open. First page of this post are some picture of what I did on draw straw, http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/10541-big-line-kit/ I put mine under driver side bad like most people do with fass since it's a lot bigger then airdog and added some 1/2" ball valves for easier filter change so you don't have to pinch line off with wise grips when changing filters. Then I put a piece of aluminum to cover it from crap flying off tire.

I don't think they know how to do that, you'll have to tell them.

Man California is becoming bigger and bigger shithole every time I hear something about it, I hope rest of US does not follow it.

Talked with their rep and got some more info on oil and fuel additive. It makes since to me now that oil is never at 0 TAN when new, so that's why this CAT lab i've been using had TAN levels above 3 most of time, they say most of new oils will have 2.5-3.5 of TAN to begin with and if you sample VOA then you just look at it again after some time and if TAN barely moved then there is nothing to worry about. So if your oil was at 3 TAN new sample (VOA) and 12 TBN and after 1k it shows 3.2 TAN and 11.8 TBN then there is nothing wrong, you only moved .2 and most allow 2 points before you would worry about it. Now they also sell fuel additive that supposedly (350 HFRR) in a ball park. But the rep did say that 2% BIO was best.

That's a good point but if he has no power to the wire that power on fuel pump then it's something electrical.

here are some specs, http://www.cen-pe-co.com/Product Data/S-3 Engine Oil.pdf I'm thinking of s3 15w40 oil looks like 1600 ppm of Zink 1475 of Phosphorus, 14TBN, good to -20 pour point, and ash is 1.5 not sure if it's needed with 15ppm fuel. Cost is about 18.30 a gallon.

I think I might of found my new oil company and they are local somewhat to me. http://www.cen-pe-co.com/Products/Engine Oil.html Anybody ever heard of them?