Dieselfuture

Buy the way each one of these tests is $25 that's the expensive option if you want to know both TAN and TBN and I did.

Past 3 years Amsoil AME 15w40 diesel and marine. These guys put this Altorfer DEO oil in just about anything I'm starting to think that lab results are goofy for some reason.

They got other cracks but very fine right now. Can anybody see what date code it is a cording to these pictures. P.S. I bought these on line through tread depot. So not sure about waranty.

I was talking about everything else but TAN, don't look like anybody is posting TAN levels on new oils anyway. That said maybe new oils react different in this test and need to be ran through motor before having a true TAN number. So other than TAN being high is everything else look ok to use in cummins? I'm not so sure that their equipment is functioning properly because TAN on Amsoil is at 3.5 and they say to change it, it only got 3700ml on it and if amsoil says I can go for at least 10k with this oil and their filters then something is off. It still looks kind of clean on deep stick.

According to that chart rotella is pretty close to what I got for result, maybe they all fine?

Anybody running a set of Toyos? Mine are about a year old and got maybe 4k on them. Today I noticed a crak between lugs. Bought them with good reviews and made in USA and now this. Just got a set of these last week for my dad and they say made in Japan so not sure what's going on.

I'd have to agree on inconcistancy of results coming from same 5 gallon bucket, firs sample was done with vacuume pump and new tube the other 2 out of bucket but extremely carful. Zink is all over tan is high for brand new oil and amsoil at 3700ml tan of 3.5 (on high side) and tbn 11.4 should be useable but says change oil if haven't yet. I'm not going to spend anymore time and money testing this stuff, but just wanted to see how consistent the results would be. Pretty inconsistent if you ask me. But I don't really know what to look for. Where is oxi and TAN should be on new oil? 0? And ho do you tell what a good oil is.

Ok first one and second is retake sample of new Altorfer deo oil, third is new shell rotella T 15w40, and last is used amsoil ame 15w40 oil. Can some one explain what to look for.

Is this on rear driveshaft where it connects to rear end, if so guy at Sadler power train claims that some of them yokes go bad not sure where or how but he said they replaced a few on doges and a lot of times they just put a bigger one on and ether use a conversion joint or weld a new end on driveshaft.

I think something is out of wak, grease shouldn't keep it tight it should be tight to begin with, but not too tight. Sometimes they come with different thickness clips to use that would shim them but not sure on your application. If you hammered hard on the old joints or even new you could of bent something.

75w110 amsoil no issues.

Sorry didn't know if you got factory filter housing, assumed that everyone by now has an aftermarket spin on fuel filter. And I usually don't mix my drinks I like it staight, gets right to the point that way no crewing around.

Don't prefill fuel filter, too many ifs and buts.

Sorry had a few drinks it's Friday. But according to AH64ID only donaldson is able to flow as close to where it's required.

What filters are you using? I hope good quality and not fram. I just got a case of 12 from eBay donaldson dbl7349 best filter out there. And thanks to AH64ID TO POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

Just for comparison this is result from 4500 miles and 12 months on Amsoil 15w40 diesel and marine ame oil.

One more thing is I noticed, some smell from this oil too, not sure how to describe it but it stinks.

Yeap I can't have nothing nice I already figured it out a while back. Going to resample the bucket and see what happens.

I think you are right, I have my suspicion too, could not get a straight answer from them on few questions I had. Going to resample and go from there.

Oil on label is Altorfer but its made by mobil with some other ingredients to their liking. So I guess they use that chart as reference.

Here is same page I was shown http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/AUXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_MX_15W-40.aspx

So I talked with altorfers today regarding TAN being 2.7 in their new oil and they said that it was probably an additive that made it look that way and that as soon as you would run it through engine it should come down. The other thing we talked about is ash of 1.3 and that cj oil should be below 1 so answer on that was that they use Mobil oil that is cj4 with other things that CAT wanted to add so it could be part of it. So really I didn't get too many answerers other than it should be ci4 oil that I got but according to everything else we could find it sounds like it's cj4 Mobil oil that has extra things that CAT wanted in it. I guess at $3 a quart I'm going to use it for a while and do another sample after few thousand miles and see what comes out. But that rumor about them still selling ci4 oil is probably a myth.

I used to let people hook their side of jumper cables and I would hook it up to my side and before I knew too much about it some one showed me how you tell if juice is flowing by touching leads together and if it sparks then it's good, I've done it my self too. But then I learned here that it's a huge no no, and now my friends think I'm nuts and anal about my stuff.

Great now I got to go down there and set them straight as they reassured me that it was not cj4, if you look at that label it has cj4 on it but they covered it with blueish color paint and when I asked them, response was that they screwed up when printed labels and had to cover it. I'll se what they say about that code and TAN also. Why is it so hard to find good oil or for that matter anything that's worth a crap, always on the hunt.

Another thing why do you guys think TAN of 2.76 is present in brand new oil, and it says that tan is at marginal level and needs to be monitored.