Dieselfuture

I did that just in case like you said, and I actually took them out and put them in garage. Figured might as well look things over Ander trays and check wires. I guess question still is has anyone equalized their battery's before. And another question I have is, can I charge both batteries at once with regular charger if they still in the truck or is it a good idea to always unhook cables and do one at the time.

I had similar issue, ended up being bad caliper in rear, got them all rebuild for 40 bucks. Also I've seen rubber lines get rusty around metal clamps and pinching line shut, fluid will go one way but takes a while to let go.

Hopefully a quick question. Just got a mk345pc charger for my boat to charge deep cycle batteries. It's a minnkota 3 bank charger that charges and maintains. It has an option to equalize batteries and recommend every 30th charge on deep cycle battery. I called minnkota support and asked if I can use their charger on regular car/truck batteries and they said yes. This charger puts out 15 amps per bank. I guess my question is will it hurt to equalize my truck Batteries? Reason I'm asking is I checked voltage to my batteries and it was at 11.8 and the other day it was hard to start after sitting for a month. But after driving that day it was fine. They are 5 years old now and beraly used in my mind a good equalization will bring them to life, I checked electrolyte level and it was fine almost to the top, and inside didn't look bad looking through the holes. Just curious if anyone done that before. They are out of the truck now and charging on regular setting. Just checked them before came in the house and charger is saying they are at 50% hopefully by morning it will be done charging.

This is what I run in my nv56, looks like -40 to 300 for temps. Might not be a bad idea to check on oil you run. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/

Are you saying you don't have a welder or just don't have time

About 20-21 hwy with 8 hole and now same tune and driving stile 17-18hwy. Empty that is at 65-68mph

Call me crazy but I lost mpg (about 2 mpg ) going from 75hp 8 hole to 60hp 7 hole. I think 8 hole may have better atomization. Some day I'll prove myself wrong when I'll switch back.

Funny you say that, when I got parts for my alternator at local Electric place, first thing he told me is if it's a wired electrical problem we always check ac voltage before going any further. Now this is a guy that knows about it, but like you mentioned most people don't and just by pure luck after changing everything and the alternator, problem goes away. And of course if you buy an alternator at part store chances are it's not going to last. Reason it wasn't a big deal back in a day not only quality was better but cars didn't have all these electronics that so easy effected by ac noise. So what ball joints not to buy or I should say which ones did you get 10k ago? I just bought a set of original cpicer joints but haven't put them in yet, might give it another year or two as I don't hardly drive it. Just use it when I need it.

If I understand this right, d80 for 2500 is a hybrid, d80 pumpkin and d70 wheel hubs. And d80 in 1 ton has bigger hubs and bearings. Not sure if axles shafts are same or not, I would think they are why else would you just put bigger pumpkin.

Once I tried doing a seal on a 12 valve and took cover off to do KDP which was sticking out about an 1/8. anyway got the seal in from the front because I couldn't get it to go from the rear and when installing it back on to crank it took so much force to get it stretched over the crank with that plastic guide it pushed the seal out of the cover, and I used some red thick loctite. Then I reinstalled the seal and tried without the plastic guide and it still poped out of the cover, after a while i got pissed and put the old seal in as it wasn't leaking before just figured i'd change it cause i have cover off. Long story short these front seals are a bit... and I'm starting to wonder if there are different sizes available. I know that the one I got was for that engine from cummins dealer according to engine number and it didn't have a sleeve.

Wow that sucks, I don't know if I seen them break in that spot, I thought usually it's next to splines. Like mentioned before it was probably stressed out from all of the years and it took that little bit to finish it off. It's ether that or you have way too much torque might want to detune your truck Maybe good time to find a hybrid D80

Thank you will do.

I know if I pull relay that came with fass I won't have any fuel pressure, so does that mean my fass gets it's power from batteries directly? and the plug under driver side cab that fass and air dog plugs in, must be the wire that comes from ecm?

Can some one point me in the right direction on how to make sure my lift pump (FASS 150) isn't wired directly of an ECM but rather of a battery through a relay. I installed everything according to instructions. There is a relay also that I believe is hooked to battery and a plug under a truck that is plugged in to FASS wiring. Maybe it's fine already by going with an aftermarket lift pump and only affected if you still use factory frame pump. Is there a thread on this and maybe pictures? Just want to make sure, Thanks.

No our wood stove doesn't smoke in the house only if I forget to open slowly or not open bottom dampener, top one stays open all the time. I clean it regularly, and wood is pretty dri. I think that little bit of smell when I load wood in is enough to have her thinking that it's bad for you. Women are great to argue with and not win most of the time.

I got mine from timbo like most people here, but also heard he has a bad one every so often but with no hassle exchanges it. I think it could leave you stranded if it was bad enough. In my mind it's like a resistor or rheostat, has coiled wire with a nidle riding on it. After time nidle flattens coil and coil sides start touching and arcing and so you lose that range. Maybe a guy could adjust set screw in a few turns so dead spot moves and relearn apps for temporary fix. Just a guess. But I wouldn't wait, I'd get one coming.

What are the thoughts on health subject. My wife says our kids are seek and coughing mostly because of our wood stove, and it can cause long term health affects, so now I'm not allowed to use it and it gets chilly in part of house just using furnace. But at day care most of kids are coughing, I wonder if they all have wood stoves. All jokeing aside but can a wood stove really heart you in a long run? Especially kids.

How come your iat is not at 143

Are new and old qwadzillas different at all in tuning parameters or is it same. What I mean is before they went out of business and after they came back. Does anyone want to share tunes they run for towing and mpg and at what mph do you drive to have your good vs bad.

Might not be a bad idea to spend 80 bucks for an alignment, just to see how bad it may be. That is after you do everything else and it looks good with tape measure. It may save in a long run on tire wear and mpg.

I got my tranny temp guage in the oil port and it's usually pretty close to water temp maybe 10 degrees higher

If no codes and fuel and boost is good, could be injectors, A/C noise from alternator, bad vp44 fuse or something mechanical in vp that isn't throwing a code yet, grounds, if you have tuner unhook completely and try driving, maybe valve adjustment.

I get mine from local oreilly and get the medium stuff, it's life time waranty, depends on the idiot that you get when trying to waranty things out, but most of the time I don't have problems. Someone I know got a car and we put brakes one a while back, so far changed rotors once and pads 3 times, all under warranty. He probably put close to 150k on it so far. Quality definitely not like factory, original stuff seem to last close to 80-100k depends who drives it. If more people used brain when driving and owning a vehicle maybe they would see close to 200k out of parts like Mike.

I have a BD brand and it looks similar to the one that Mike shows in pictures. I love mine, came with everything needed to install. Like this only an older version. https://m.thoroughbreddiesel.com/store/p/2472-BD-Diesel-Performance-Exhaust-Brake-99-02-Cummins-Turbo-Mount-Vac.aspx Mine has a large blue vacuum chamber. I think something that has to with breaks you can't go cheap on, ether a used unit better be in good shape without guessing or buy new. If you don't have money to buy new maybe do an upgrade on your service breaks to later model that has larger rotors and pads, you will need 17 inch rims though. I did it on mine but not sure if you can do it to a 99.