Dieselfuture

I just bought ea few gallons and on the back at the top it says ashless.

Do these wheel say made in mexico? I have a set just like that just without indent and they say made in USA and I had a set of the ones you got and they said made in Mexico. Just curious.

That's why I never shut mine off, just kidding.

On the other note seems like these Cummins engines will almost run with no air, I'm guessing not very well.

I'm guessing you haul it on a trailer and not in a back of your truck, cause 700gal is about 5800lb

I had terras before and really liked them, I got toyo at2 now and not sure if they're any better, plus my Toyos are only just over a year old and getting dry rot already.

Doesn't look horrible, I'd use it. I say that now but if I had mine out I'd be taking it to the shop for a valve job decking cleaning and magnaflaxing to be sure. But at the same time it ran fine before. Depends on how much money you don't need.

I understand you completely and suuport your decision. Recently I've sold a few things myself that I thought would not sell for a long time. But material things come and go, where you only have one set of parents. My truck is not perfect by any means and as much as I shoved in it and hardly used it, it's hard for me to even think of selling it at this point, but few times it gave me hard time I was considering it. Until later looking at price tags and people still having problems with newer trucks plus a lot more expensive to fix and a payment. So for now I'm going to keep it but the rust is taking over and it's only got 145k, pretty sad. I might start driving daily to get some miles on it so the engine catches up to body and I can get some of the money back out of it. But having hard time to belive I'll ever put a million miles on it, I think there will be nothing left of the body. Plus as long as it will take me to put that many miles I wonder if parts will be available. To top it off one thing is always in back of my mind when traveling far, that is will vp just die or maybe ecm and then what. But I guess it could happen to any vehicle with other problems. I guess point I'm tryingto make is, if I could afford a new truck every few years I'd be trading them in and not waist any time on fixing, and maybe have a project truck or somethingwith cummins to tinker with, like a 4bt jeep or 6bt suburban. On my future list, don't tell my wife. I got an f350 I drive at work ( city job) and one of locals asked me, how come you didn't get a Chevy, I told him it wasn't that comfortable to sleep in. But I wouldn't know ether way, should of seen a look on his face though.

What coolant were you running?

May I add, not only diodes but also brushes and what they ride on. I rebuild my alternator and it got better but only after I changed brushes and I belive armature, only then my vac went down to an exepteable level.

I belive we have a set of these on one of our work trucks, they seem to do good and holding up well. I thought about getting these buy somehow got toyos.

I thought tcw3 meant ashless

It's almost no different then slowing down to avoid running over a turkey or a duck or something similar so you don't heart poor animal on a road but then go to a store and get one ready to go.

Mine bilstine work good not any worse than the factory ones. But truck rides like a brick unless I have 1000lb or better in the back. I bet I have over 20k in my truck easy.

More people realize that newer isn't always better, can't say that for my wife though.

Looks like you still got them body pins stock in the door, same mirrors I got from same place, a bit late of notice sorry.

I think you can adjust tie rods so they move alot or not much by rotating them away from each other or keep them parallel. May help one way or another. Not sure which one is correct.

What air filter are you using, looks kinda dirty. I've rebuilt tubes before on my rx7 I had when was younger, didn't think it was that hard at all just time is all.

All of this advice is great, and I might add, don't waste your time on checking your old stock injectors out to see if they are any good. In my opinion it's a waste of time and money. Just get rv's and you don't need to turn yours in for a core, and later you can by nozzles and have someone put them on your old injectors and do all the pop testing then. Or just turn them in for a core on some 50hp which is good also. At 180k your injectors more likely are out of spec. anyway. Plus doing that work just to check stock injectors is silly, now if they were something you loved and wanted to keep then yes do all the tests to them, but I don't know anyone that is going to pull stock ones out and put money in them just to gain nothing. I guess maybe government equipment is like that. Spend a butt load of money and not get anywhere. Again just my opinion.

This is what I learned over years, not exactly best way to take care of things but it works. When you can't find a problem, you need to wait longer until it becomes apparent where the problem is. I did this a few times and in the end it worked out. Like I said not the best way especially if it's something expensive.

I had this happen a few years ago, I was playing with a relay for the air dog when it was on before I swiched to fass, but I don't think it had anything to do with air dog as it still ran great after that day. What I did was unplugged the relay and used a jump wire to power lift pump directly just to see if would run that way incase I ever had to hot wire it. But I also tried starting the truck without a relay and not jumped and that's when I ran in to same issue, Truck won't prime and just keeps on spinning without a start. It ended up starting after abusing starter for a while and never did it since. So to this day I'm not sure if ecm got confused or what but I'm hopping I didn't do anything serious to it. Been about 3 years now. Not really an answer but this shi.. does happen for some odd reason.

When I rebuilt my calipers, I put some high temperature grease under the boots so the caliper body won't rust. That's what was causing my pistons to stick in first place, piston is made out of some sort of composite material and cleaned up with carb cleaner. But I had to use fine send paper to clean the bore.

Same here, local dealer wants 22 bucks for a qt, so I ended up getting amsoil for half the cost. If I had to change it more often, I'd probably use pennzoil as it's available at local part stores. But if I know this right, Mopar fluid and amsoil are both synthetic, where panzoil is not.

My front shaft when disengaged has a slight resistance to it before I can freely start spinning it, once It's spinning it is very easy to continue to do so but if I stop for few seconds then it gets sticky again. Maybe there is some sort of brake on it somewhere from factory and eventually it wears out and able to spin at will. Or maybe my seals are still that good and that's what's causing that drag, but only for a first 1/8 of revolution then it's like some one let's go the break and it's free. Not sure what it is. But maybe it does exactly what this video shows.

That makes perfect sense, I can't belive I forgot that vanes are lubricated by oil and that's why you have to clean them when doing a rebuilt on vacuum pump. For some reason I was thinking it was just creating vacuum all in its own and had nothing to do with engine. I suppose them vanes would wear out pretty quick if not lubed.